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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 6, Issue 4 - Dec 1998
Volume 6, Issue 3 - Sep 1998
Volume 6, Issue 2 - Jun 1998
Volume 6, Issue 1 - Apr 1998
Selecting the target year
A Study on the Taboo of Marriage Luxury of Chosun Period
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 1, 1998, Pages 1~13
As for the taboo of dress and its ornaments which was applied to only populace one-sidedly mainly under the power structure of feudalistic centralization of government like Chosun dynasty, the aspect of taboo was diversified all the more by having relation with various phenomenon of social structure characteristics, and the taboo items to be given in accordance with the flow of time shows the diversity. Especially, the structure of dress and its ornaments in Chosun period showed the side of social position relation and luxury control, and the taboo of dress and its ornaments which was derived from the current thought about China was given frequently. To respect the frugal virtue and moderate the life has relation with the stream of the times in individuals or nations. And, that it is externalized is dress and its ornaments. As the luxury about dress and its ornaments was serious in accordance with times, it appeared by having relation with whole economic question of nations. Then, this researcher thought this by relating this to the culture of customs. This researcher thought that the luxury about clothing gets to go to extremes and the law and order collapses, according as public morals get to be very lax. And, it can be said that the way to be able to control this is that the customs should be thoroughly obeyed and that the system to be able to play the role of braking is taboo. So, this researcher thinks that it is significant to examine the achievement which has contributed toward the life of dress and its ornaments by successive kinds on the basis of a true record of the Vidynasty and other all sorts of literatures about the real situation of prohibition order which has been from the first king to Kojong at the last period of nation. The criticism and taboo about luxury which have been discussed at Chosun period may be subdivided into some kinds in accordance with the subjects. But, in this tests, as it sis the real situation that the case to be due to the lavish necessary articles for marriage which is coming to fore as our social problem nowadays is increasing remarkably, this researcher tries to examine the taboo about the marriage luxury at Chosun period in the order of successive generations. Thus, before examining the taboo of marriage luxury, this researcher tries to examine about the taboo of textile luxury and study the taboo of marriage luxury, as the marriage luxury governs almost everything of textile luxury and it is regarded as the origin of marriage luxury, especially. And, this researcher tries to study as to how was the penal regulations based on it at the same time
A Study on the Characteristics in the Women′s Fashion of the New-Aged Korean - with a Life Style and a Clothing Behavior from 1990 to 1995 -
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 1, 1998, Pages 14~24
This treatise, distinguishing the Korean in modern times who abruptly came to appear as newly-flowing group in the 1990 into 10, 20 and 30s respectively and giving new appellations like New kids for teenages, X-generation for 20s, Missy for 30s, is for search of their clothing phenomena. In this research, I have investigated several major factors which caused rapid developments and changes in cloths and present situation of various causes influenced by clothing phenomena, value in their life, tendencies, life style of these ranging from teenages, so-called New kids, to X-generation, forming wide scopes of clothes and to 30s, so-called Missy appearing with instigating another dimension of sensational turning-point in the field of fashion in Korea.
A Study on the Fashion Illustration by Using CAD System
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 1, 1998, Pages 25~34
The researches on modern fashion design have more specific and multifactorial, and expressional approaches of designers become more deeverse too. And, at the present point time when the design itself extends actively throughout the world, there should be may studies that focus on the development of CAD system. This study research that computer adied design used in developing various design and variety training. Development of fashion design by using computers could contribute to the rapid composition of deverse researches on it. It is to be classified into three items, diagram, illustration, transformation in computer adied fashion design. The illustration could be color variation by using CAD system, and express correct form, adjustment, complement. It must be development as an expression of propaganda, having a artistic value of ganre. At the present point of time when the fashion design itself it needed development, there should be may studies that focus on development of fashion design by using computer. This study present diagram for practical side, and illustration for decorative side by using CAD system.
A Comparative Study on the Dress and Its Ornaments and the Civil Service Examination System in the Choson Dynasty Focused to Alsongsi(謁聖試)
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 1, 1998, Pages 35~45
Confucianism, the dominating thought in the Choson Dynasty, considered the congruence of scholar and bureaucrat as principle of royal politics, so it was the important affairs to educate and select scholars who excelled in Confucian science and its historical view. The process to educate and select the scholars in accordance with the spirit of Confucianism was called the civil service examination. In this study, we examined the dress and its ornaments of the Confucian students nd that of the successful candidate related to the system of the civil service examination, and focused on the literatures and figures. The Choson Dynasty looked upon the education as important and Confucian scholars and the successful candidate had the superior position in that society. The seems to have been the demarcation between the dress and its ornaments worn by the candidate and the successful candidate. According to the inquiry of the literatures and figures, the candidate is thought to have worn yuguhn(儒巾) or bokkuhn(幅巾) with chongsam(靑衫), nansam( 衫), jikryung(直領) and the successful candidate is thought to have worn bokduh( 頭) with easahwa(御史花), aengsam(鶯衫), danryung(團領) in the Choson Dynasty.
A Study on the Change of Cheek-rouge in the Traditional Make-up Culture
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 1, 1998, Pages 46~57
The purpose of this study were to understand the traditional make-up in Korea, and investigate a method of making and using the cheek rouge, make-up trend. This study was reviewed the change of cheek rouge from the Three State to the Civilization period. The results revealed that the cheek rouge make-up was the main aspect in Korea make-up and was a product of culture, society and area. Therefore, this finding was helpful to understand the traditional make-up culture in Korea, and to express and inherite Korean beauty in the make-up.
A Study on the Characterization and Dyeability of Mushroom Colorant(III) -Analysis of Color Difference Value Depending on Dyeing Condition
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 1, 1998, Pages 58~70
The color difference value of fabrics dyed with browning extracts from mushroom were as follows. 1. Two hours of dyeing depending on pH at 95℃ exhibited colors of YR and Y. The color of wool and nylon was darkest brown at pH 4, but light brown or yellow as pH increased. The color of silk was darkest brown at pH 5 and pH changes resulted in the same tendency as in wool. 2. In wool the color was changed to darker brown as time prolonged, however, there was no further color change after 9hr and value and chroma of wool declined. 3. At pH 4, the increase in temperature turned colors of sil, wool and nylon into dark brown from light yellow. 4. As the result of repetitive dyeing, colors of silk, wool and nylon gradually turned into darker brown. The repetitive dyeing was more effective in dark color and high colorfastness compared to a prolonged dyeing. 5. The amount of mordant resulted in color changes between light yellow and dark brown without various color changed. 6. In color change according to methods of mordant, post-mordant with CuSO₄·5H₂O and with SnCl·2H₂O showed colors of green and light yellow, respectively.
A Study on Career Women′s Clothing Purchase Behavior
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 1, 1998, Pages 71~83
The purpose of this study was to classify career women's apparel shopper type by analyzing clothing shopping orientations and to compare the classified shopper types on store evaluative criteria, information sources, and demographic characteristics. The questionnaire was administered to 328 career women aged 20∼59 years. The data were analyzed using factor analysis, cluster analysis, ANOVA, MONAVA, and x² test. The results of this study were as follows: Eight factors of clothing shopping orientation derived by factor analysis. Four shopper types were classified by cluster analysis: Apathetic shopper, High shopping involved shopper, Conformable shopper, Economic shopper type. Store evaluative criteria, information sources and demographic characteristics were significantly different among four shopper types.
A Study of Fashion and Make-up Trend in 1990s
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 1, 1998, Pages 84~93
The main focus of this paper is to provide clear understanding about the concept of make-up as total fashion by defining the essential meaning of it. First, we would like to go over the concept of make-up and total fashion, then analyze the make-up image, the changes of colors and images of make-up overtime and fashion that have influenced over those changes. In this paper, we analyze the trend of fashion and make-up in 1990s and their relevancy. Through this paper we hope that make-up can be accepted as a part of total fashion in its relationship with other elements such as shoes, clothes and accessory and that it can be considered as a independent art that has direct influence on people. The trend of Spring/Summer between 1990 and 92is the image of natural beauty and comfortable and modernistic image that can be experienced through nature. In 1992, there was a revival look of 1960s and 1970s. Make-up also followed this trend. The overall color tone was to give natural and stable images with pastel tone to soften the images. This tone brought back the ecology of 1960s. The theme of restoration in humanity and nostalgia was reflected in clothing, and these trend changed the ecology of make-up to peace, love and romantic ecology which was expressed in coral, blue, and green tone to create intelligent image of woman. Year 1996 could be called as color revolution period that emphasized the unique and individual expression of each person. In 1997, black, pastel and brown colors were the result of reinterpreting the classic and sexy images of 1960s to natural and modernistic image of 1997. Purple color started to be introduced to us. The beginning of 1990s Fall/Winter season was based on ecology concept that emphasized the natural image. Until 1995 it appeared that spring/summer and fall/winter trend had no big differences. But from 1995 seasonal differences in trend are appeared and there were various make-up designs. In 1995, 1996, brown color lines make-up comes to mix with romantic image and developed into wine, orange, neon colors. These color were the symbol of property and sentiment and gold make-up emphasizing the eye area was the tendency of that period. In 1997, the fear of coming end of century was expressed as decadent image and at that time ethnic image, romantic image appeared with vivid color lines, gold, red and violet.
A Study on Self-image and Clothing-Purchasing-Behavior of Adolescence
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 1, 1998, Pages 94~109
The objective of this study is to measure self-image of adolescence, analyze empirically clothing-purchasing-behavior of adolescence and clarify correlation of two variables, self-image and clothing-purchasing-behavior. For this purpose, the techniques involve theoretical studies and researches based on historical obtained from previous related studies and surveys, 431 high school female students who reside in Seoul are asked to answer selected survey questions to examine three aspects, clothing-purchasing-behavior, self-image and demographics. The evaluation of surveyed information is analyzed by statistical techniques to improve the accuracy of data. Statistical methods used are as follows; Descriptive(frequency, mean, percentage), Factor Analysis(varimax rotation), Crosstabs(Chi-square), T-test, One-Way ANOVA< Correlation Analysis, Reliability Analysis and Duncan's Multiple Range Test. The mjor results of this study were as follows: Firstly, there is a discrepancy between real self-image and ideal self-image. Furthermore more significant differences is seen from physical aspects than psychological aspects. Consequently, research proves that the difference derived from their ideal situation and real situation leads to psychological unstableness. In addition, making their real self-image is dependent upon several elements such things as family economic level, pocket money, expenditure on clothing. Therefore, it is critical to combine all factors in order to decide how much to spend for children's clothing and pocket money in parents point of view. Secondly, research shows that shows hat there is correlated relationship between average expenditure on clothing and presence of mother's job. Average expenditure on clothing is, generally, influenced by vogue which is tend to be changed seasonally. It, also, shows that there is positive linear regression between expenditure on clothe and sensitivity for vogue. That is to say, dependent variable, expenditure on clothing, is varied as independent variable, sensitivity for vogue, changes. Female high school students are likely to give much value on brand. Moreover people who are spending more money on clothes have higher tendencies in prompt purchases than who are not. Thirdly, the analysis of clothing-purchasing-behavior and self-image shows that the difference between real self-image and ideal self-image draws the main reason of dissatisfaction after purchase of clothes. As a consequence, their unfilled needs lead them to keep making another purchase to satisfy themselves. Therefore, it is strongly recommended that parents' advices and directions on their children's money spending on clothes are imperative to establish well-behaved purchasing patterns.
A Study on Consumers′ Evaluation and Complaint to Domestic Apparel Products
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 1, 1998, Pages 110~120
The purpose of this study was to compare consumers' evaluation, evaluation criteria and complaint factors on the department stores' private brand apparel with consumers' responses on the department stores' manufacturer brand apparel. 564 subjects were gathered in Seoul and Kyunggi province and, for data analysis, mean, t-test, ANOVA, Duncan test, Factor Analysis were conducted. The results are as follows; 1. Among the purchasing groups, there weer significant differences in apparel evaluation according to fabric, style, sewing, suitability, versatility, washability, price and color. 2. Among the purchasing group, there were significant differences in apparel evaluation criteria according to fabric, fashionability, sewing, brand name, department store' credibility. 3. The differences in complaint factors of apparel among the purchasing groups were due to factors such s high quality, variety, price and size. there were significant differences in complaint factors of apparel according to the subjects' age.
A Study on the Environment-friendly Textile Products
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 1, 1998, Pages 121~135
This study discusses the concept on environment-friendly textile products, environmentally oriented processes of fiber and fabric production, and case reports of environments-friendly products. This study may inspire recognition and necessity of environment-friendly textile products to textile industry and designers ,and also develop the consideration of environmental aspects in the field of textile design and fashion design. Environment-friendly textile products mean not only natural products but also the products reduced the environmentally harmful consequences of their production processes. Because the textile production processes may cause environmental problem. the processes of bleaching, dyeing, mercerising, proofing, and establishing must be carefully controlled. These environment-friendly textile products in this study are divided into development of environment-friendly textile products, recycled textile products, products which are produced by environmentally oriented processes, and recycling capacity in the process of the coming into use. If the textile industrialists and its designers are continuously interested in those environment-friendly products, the textile industrialists produce environment-friendly products in manufacturing process, and the textile and the fashion designers design their products having the conciousness of environment. They reduce environmental pollution caused by producing textile products and are survived in the struggle of existence of the future world trade market.
A Study on the Underclothes by the Changes of Ages -Focused on Men′s Underclothes in Medieval-
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 1, 1998, Pages 136~148
This is a study on the change of the Medievalmen's underclothes. Underclothing includes all such articles, worn by either sex, as were completely or mainly concealed from the spectator by the external costume. Throughout the Middle Ages, the underclothing of both sexes possessed characteristic inherited from earlier times. Its function was purely utilitarian. It was not used to express class distinction and only very indirectly to enhance sex attraction. The idea of underclothes was associated with the idea of the body's sinfulness. Underclothes could also symbolize the discipline of humility. To appear clad only in underclothes was a voluntary form of selfabasement often practised by pilgrims. The notion that underclothes might express the spirit of the changing times, in sympathy with the outer clothing, did not enter the medieval mind. The length of the shirt was less than that of the modern garment, especially after the middle of the fourteenth century. The sleeves were somewhat full, without cuffs, and cut straight. During the second half of the twelfth century, when braies become definitely an undergarment. In the fourteenth century braies became shorter and shorter and the shirt could no longer be tucked in but hung outside over the thighs. After 1340 the costume on the surface somewhat resembling modern 'tights', began to reveal display the shape of the male leg as a form of sex attraction. By the close of the Middle Ages, braies had become less like loincloths, and more like modern bathing trunks. The peasant and laborer did not attempt to keep pace with the changes of fashion but, continued, as a rule, to wear the long braies of their forefathers. The higher ranks how this garment reflected the changes of the mode of outer costumes.