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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
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Volume & Issues
Volume 6, Issue 4 - Dec 1998
Volume 6, Issue 3 - Sep 1998
Volume 6, Issue 2 - Jun 1998
Volume 6, Issue 1 - Apr 1998
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A Study on Costume the Sumptuary laws of Silla in Sam-Guk-Sa-Ki(三國史記)
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 2, 1998, Pages 1~21
The purpose of this study was to trace and to identify costumes described in the sumptuary laws of Silla in Sam Guk Sa Ki(三國史記). Conclusions and summary of the research can be summarized as follows. Pyo ui was an outer robe. It was worn by man and woman from all classes. Nai ui is considered as a kind of long inner garment worn under the outer garment. Ban bi is a short-sleeved garment worn over a jacket. Both sexes wore this garment but it was restricted to the upper class. Dan ui, a short garment, is a kind of jacket. Although records on this garment appear only in the items of woman's garments, it si considered that all people wore this garment since it was basic garment for the people of Silla. Bai was the bai ja. It was a kind of woman's over-cat with wide sleeves. Dang is considered as a kind of woman's outer robe originally made of ra. The upper class women entitled to wear the bai and the dang. Women wore skirts. They had tow kinds of skirts an outer skirt and an inner skirt. However, women of four du pum did not have an inner skirt. Trousers were worn by all people. Names of ban bi, bai, and dang were derived from T'ang China. These garments with their origins in T'ang China were used by the upper class people of Silla. They used those garments as a means of differentiating their social status from the lower class.
A Study on the Fabrics in the Sumptuary Laws of Silla in Sam Guk Sa Ki(三國史記)
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 2, 1998, Pages 22~35
The objective of this study was to investigate and to identify and to classify the fabric names concerning costume in the sumptuary laws of Silla in Sam Guk Sa Ki(三國史記). The important findings of this study can be summarized as follows: Various names of fabrics concerning costume in the sumptuary laws of Silla were found to be classified into ten categories of fabrics. They were as follows: (1) kye( ), (2) Su(繡), (3) Kum(錦), (4) Ra(羅), (5) Reung(綾), (6) Sa(紗), (7) Si( ), (8) Kyun(絹), (9) Myun Ju(綿紬), (10) Po(布). Ra(羅) in ten categories was the most various. The numbering orders shown above were the orders of degree of valuability and preciousness of the fabrics in Silla. Namely, (1) Kye( ) was the most precious fabric, (2) Su(繡) was the second precious one, (3) Kum(錦) was the third precious one, and so on. It was found that the orders of the degree of preciousness of fabrics were a system for differentiating social class and rank, or sex of the people. It revealed the ordering system of the degree of the preciousness of fabrics of Silla was derived from T'ang dynasty. The system of Silla and T'ang system were almost the same each other. Materials used to manufacture fabrics were of mainly three kinds; e.g., wool, silk, and hemp. In these three kinds of materials silk was the most common stuff, and it was seen under the various names of the silks.
A Study on Women′s Costume Colors in the Sumptuary Laws of Silla in Sam Guk Sa ki(三國史記)
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 2, 1998, Pages 36~44
The purpose of this study was to identify and to classify the names of costume colors of women of Silla. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; Until now scholars and researchers interpreted nine colors in Sam Guk Sa Ki as nine colors explained in the dictionaries. However, term, nine colors in the contexts did not refer to the literary meaning of nine colors such as blue, red, yellow, white, black, green, purple, pink, and navy blue as explained in the dictionaries. 'Nine colors' of Silla were women's costume colors which were specified in the royal edict in the texts. Thus, 'nine colors' of Silla had a specific meaning rather than literary meaning. 'Nine colors' of Silla women's costume were identified as red( ), yellow(黃), purple(紫), purplish pink(紫粉), gold powder(金屑), pink(紅), yellow powder(黃屑), dark pink(緋) and dark purple(滅紫). These 'nine colors' were actually prohibited colors in women's costume in the royal edict. Women from true bone, the highest class, were prohibited the use of tow colors of red and yellow out of nine colors. While women from four du pum and common class were forbidden the use of nine colors out of total of nine colors. Kinds and numbers of colors of costume were used as a means of differentiating the social class and rank of women in Silla. Also it was found that women of Silla favored red purple, pink tones and yellow color in their costume and these colors were fashionable colors among women of Silla. These fashionable costume colors of Silla women seems to be influenced by fashions of women of T'ang dynasty of China. Red, purple, pink, yellow and green were favorite colors of women of T'ang dynasty of China.
The Self-Concept in Fashion Consumer Behavior
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 2, 1998, Pages 45~54
The purpose of this study were to (1) suggest that the combination of self-concept and innovation-theory could help in fashion marketing strategies and (2) to find unique characteristics of fashion innovators in self-concept. For this purposes, the self-concept theories and the related research studies were reviewed, and a valid and reliable self-report scale was used to measure fashion innovativeness for 236 female college students. The t-test were used to compare the self-concept items between innovators and followers. The results are as follows; 1. The fashion consumption is a manifestation of self image and consumers choose products that are consistent with their self-concept. 2. Fashion innovators describe themselves as more modern, indulgent, colorful, vain, liberal, delicated, dominant, and organized than followers. The implications of the findings for fashion merchandising are discussed.
A Study on the Analysis of Cyberpunk Concepts in Fashion
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 2, 1998, Pages 55~65
Actually, Cyberpunk is a compound word joined by cybernetics, which was used in control theory, and punk, was symbolized as anti-culture. Today, however, the definition of the term has been extended by various fields, used in many meanings. Therefore, the purpose of this study was to apply the Cyberpunk concepts to understand today s fashion because understanding of the present fashion is a means to interpret our culture. For this purpose, the phenomenon of Cyberpunk in fashion was subdivided into three factors material, color, and style. The results of the study were as follows : First, the materials used were techno material, special print by computer for future feeling and geometrical pattern, optical pattern to improve visual effects. Second, the colors mainly used were silver, black and white, bright color, and off-color of computer animation to present future-oriented feeling. Third, the general styles used were fit and slim, simple and liner, dualistic style to express future s image. In conclusion, the phenomena of Cyberpunk in fashion were expressed in material, color and style of fashion. Cyberpunk fashion was evident in T-shirts, sweaters, jackets, or as items of ornamentation such as pins, pendants, belts, and earrings, etc.
Effect of the Shoulder Pad on Arm Movement -In the Area of Functionality and Sensory
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 2, 1998, Pages 66~76
In order to investigate the effect of shoulder pad affecting the arm movement, eleven women volunteers of standard body whose age is from eighteen to twenty-four(x±1σ) were chosen and this experiment had done according to front-vertical motion, side-vertical motion and horizontal motion of upper limps for tow different materials of shoulder pad(sponge, non-woven) and four different thickness of shoulder pad(0.6cm, 0.8cm, 1.2cm). On the base of this, this study, when putting on shoulder pad, try to find the reform method of shoulder part pattern. The results are as follows. 1. When puting on shoulder pad to blouse pattern to rise shoulder pad for rate of two-third per thickness is seemingly the best for sensory evaluation. So, when putting on shoulder pad, we understand that in order to improve sensory evaluation. So, when putting on shoulder pad, we understand that in order to improve sensory evaluation of clothes, when that, rising shoulder pad for ate of two-third per thickness is the best. 2. From the results of measure of functional volume and physiological value for functionality evaluation according to thickness and material, motion of shoulder pad, 1.2 cm thickness and non-woven material is evaluated the worst for functionality. 3. From the results of sensory evaluation and functionality evaluation of material of shoulder pad, sponge material is superior for functionality but not for sensory evaluation, non-woven material is superior for sensory evaluation non-woven material is superior for sensory evaluation but not for functionality. So, think that it had better use sponge material for functional clothes, non-woven material for aesthetical clothes. 4. From the results of functionality of clothes, when putting on shoulder pad, the worst discomfortable parts are the armpit part and the shawl part, functionality of these part shoulder be reformed.
A Study on Folk-Belief Related to Korean Traditional Costume Culture
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 2, 1998, Pages 77~91
The present study collected and analyzed the Korean's folk-belief related to Koran traditional costume culture which are handed down from ancestor and are known to present Korean society as of 1990's. The purpose of the present study is to understand emotion and the view of Korean people, and to understand the social roles of the costumes in Koran traditional society more deeply and more comprehensively. The study was conducted by document analysis and interview. The results of the study are summerized as follows: Folk-belief related to spinning(gilssam), sericultural industry and weaving are mostly enduced from the hope for god quality of work and acquisition of good skill of weaving. There has been also a belief hat gilssam has a magic power to easy delivery and fecundity. Most Folk-belief of taboo related to clothing constraction proposed to people pay great care while they are sawing. Some ways of management of clothing has been related to the manners of which are associated with the differentiation between high and low level and predominance of men over women that was originated fro m confucianism. Socks(busun) and shoes are also considered to have magic power to prevent from exorcism and demon of ill health. This study suggests that folk-belief give us the wisdom a guideline and lessons for better life, high quality arts and techniques which are handed down from ancestors. Therefore, folk-beliefs having a great value, non-shaped treasures of traditional culture heritage should be collected as many as possible, recorded, and preserved.
An Analysis on College Students′ Clothing Disposal Determinants
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 2, 1998, Pages 92~108
The purpose of this study was designed a) to examine the relative importance for college students' clothing disposal causes and their factor structure: b) to test the effects of gender, clothing satisfaction and family income on clothing disposal determinants; and c) to assess the relationship between clothing purchase determinants and overall clothing satisfaction and clothing disposal determinants. Data (n=660) were collected from college students in Cheju Do. The survey questionnaire composed of a revised Clothing Disposal Determinants Scale, Clothing Purchase Determinants Scale and background variables. First, the most important reasons for clothing disposal were to unfit with body change, get washed our and raise nap on clothe, wornout with long-term use, do not ware for new purchasing clothe, uneasy on wear. Second, factor analysis of the revised Clothing Disposal Determinants Scale revealed five factors; unfitness, fashion change, quality dissatisfaction, product efficiency decrement, and maintenance/inconvenience. Third, female students perceived significantly higher in fashion change and unfitness than male students. Forth, unfitness and product efficiency decrement were significantly discriminated between between clothing satisfaction groups, unfitness and fashion change variables were significantly discriminated between family income groups. fifth, impulsive purchase factor was the best predictor of composite clothing disposal measure, followed by individuality, clothing satisfaction, practicality. The best predictors of each disposal factors were individuality oriented purchasing criterion in unfitness factor. Fashion in fashion change, impulsive purchase in quality dissatisfaction and product efficiency decrement factors, and practicality in maintenance/inconvenience factor. As a whole, the most consistent predictor of clothing disposal determinants was impulsive purchase factor.
A Study on the Expressional Characteristic of the Machine Aesthetics in the Fashion Design(I)
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 2, 1998, Pages 109~126
The purpose of this study was to analyze the expressional characteristics of the machine aesthetics in the fashion design. First, this study was started from analyzing mechanical beauty represented on the early 20th century art style. Machine aesthetics has influenced on the art and fashion design from modern to now. Futurism was grounded in the complete renewal of human sensibility brought about by the great discoveries of science. Especially, Russia avant-garde was inspired by the Futurism, that is Rayonism, Constructivism, Suprematism. Kasimir Malevich moved on immediately to purely abstract paintings of which the first was a black square on a white canvas. He had begun the art he called 'Suprematism'. Malevich's geometry was funded on the straight line, the supremely elemental form which symbolized man's ascendancy over the chaos of nature. The square was the basic suprematist element and was a repudiation of the world of appearances, and of past art. He repudiated any marriage of convenience between the artist and the engineer. Vladimir Tatlin made some of the most revolutionary works of modern art, these were the first works to be called 'construction'. Constructivists believed that the essential conditions of the machine and the consciousness of man inevitably create an aesthetic which would reflect their time. They eulogized simple shapes. That believed that buildings and objects should be freed from the ornamental excrescences and the accumulated barnacles of past art. Consequently, under the theoretical background, the result is as follows. First, The functional formativeness of machine aesthetics was expressed as a geometrical silhouette, construction line, non-ornamental construction, simple color in the 20th century design. Second, The mechanical formativeness of machine aesthetics was expressed as a construction of new material-iron, aluminium, plastic, glass-, geometrical form of material in he 20th century design. That is, machine beauty has more concerned with the expressional ideology of the art style and the formativeness of fashion design by silhouette, construction line, material, form.
A Case Study of Dan-Ryung Construction in Early 16th Century -Based on the Shrouds from Excavated Tomb of Kim, Heum Jo-
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 2, 1998, Pages 127~140
A study on the construction of Dan-Ryung in the early 16th century based on the shrouds from excavated tomb of Kim, Heum-Jo(1461-1528) is reported in this paper. This study is aimed at establishing database for a traditional Korean costume construction and emphasizing the necessity for development of methodology in writing report from excavated costume including measuring, construction methods and materials. This paper includes examples of measured length for each part of 'Dan-Ryung', reconstructured drawings, pictures, and construction methods. The followings on the construction of Dan-Ryung in the early 16th century are found in this study: 1) Dan-Ryung robes were made of less expensive hemp, cotton, silk & cotton, and ramie & silk. 2) As a whole, Dan-Ryung was lengthy and spacious and it had straighter and narrower sleeves when compared to the ones from the late Chosun. 3) There existed Moo which was large rectangular guest with double pleats at Dan-Ryung's side seam. Its round collar was constructed with a 3 cm width bias. Ball buttons on the outer collar and loops on the right shoulder are attached. 4) There existed a pair of indirectly attached slim and short strings. Inside string is directly attached. 5) Inside of the shoulder, a U-shaped shoulder pad made of the same cloth as the inner cloth was attached. hand sewing methods used include delicate flat-felled seam stitch, back-stitch and sew-up stitch.
The Study of Body Types of Adult Women in Korea
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 2, 1998, Pages 141~152
In the result of classification body types for 100 adult women by direct measurements and antropometric measurements, the mean of weight is bigger than he mean of weight of 97'. So modern 20's women is more than than 94'. In the result of factor analysis, 5 factors were extracted (horizontal sizes, vertical sizes, and degree of shoulder) from exponent sizes of the antropometric measurements item, and another 5 factors were extracted (thick of body, horizontal form of the torso, silhouette of the torso, and size of abdomen) from direct measurements item. The body types are classified into 4 types by cluster analysis in the result of direct measurement item, and another body types are classified into 5 types by antropometric measurement item, it was classified into the horizontal size and the shape and silhouette of torso, and by direct measurement item, it was only classified into the vertical and horizontal size. So for the patternmaking of clothing, it is more adoptable the classification of body by antropometric measurement item than direct measurement item.
A Study on the Cuirass Bodice
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 2, 1998, Pages 153~162
The bodice of character is classification in three period. The Fitted bodice in bustle style is characteristics, and is named as Cuirass Bodice. The Cuirass Bodice form the ground work in modern costume. So the purpose of this study is to understand background on the Cuirass Bodice, and is to analize periodical character. The Method of This study refer to literature, used illustration, and make actually Cuirass Bodice.
A Study on the Environment-Friendly Design Expressed in Fashion -Focused on the Korean Designer′s Work since 1990-
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 2, 1998, Pages 163~180
The purpose of this study is to investigate the main characteristics of the environment-friendly design expressed in Koran fashion. Environment-friendly design can be categorized into choice of material, extension of products life cycle, and recycling design. In this study, Korean fashion designers can be found having the conciousness of environment for fashion design since 1990. First, in choice of material, the designers used Natural fibers which are cotton, linen, wool, and etc, and used natural dyes. Some of the designers have moved from using real fur to using fake fur for animal welfare. But fake furs produced from synthetic or regenerated fibers have the environmental problems during textile production processes. Some of the designers used fake leather made from the skins of an edible fish which are otherwise going to waste. Secondly, Design for extension of products life cycle can economize the resources and energy. Design for extension of products life cycle are classified into reversible clothing, many function clothing, modular style, patina clothing, simple style, and layered look. Finally, recycling design are classified into recycling of daily necessaries and expression techniques of recycling design which are designer's works used patchwork, mash techniques, and handmade of knits or buttonhole stitch.
A Study on the Political Situation and Costumes in the Period of King Hungduk in the Silla Dynasty -Focus of King Hungduk′s Prohibition of Clothing-
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 2, 1998, Pages 181~202
When the study the costumes of Silla Dynasty, the only well-founded data is shown in the prohibition that is promulgated in the period of King Hungduk. In the prohibition, the social limitation according to the Silla Golpum system is closely described, now it is interesting researchers very much. Any times the promulgation of a ordinance has a proper reason. The ordinance of the period of King Hungduk also has no exceptions. It made a reason clear in the introduction - inaccordance with the social position, the list of articles is used with different, in spite of the strict regulation, the distinction of costumes was in disorder because of the trend of luxury and os we have to make right according to law. Some historian think that the prohibition assumes the character of an political innovation. The prohibition contains an social signification, the items of prohibition did not enumerate simply prohibiton items. Through away of research to analyze the hidden meaning contained in the prohibition, we can see the social phenomenon of Silla Dynasty. And compared with the type of clothing, the kinds of clothing mentioned in prohibiton have changed very much. I believe that we can find out political and social change in prohibition.
A Study on Signification of Components in Fashion Advertising
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 2, 1998, Pages 203~216
In the study, conceiving that signifying processes like model, setting, advertisement and description are important to promote the purchase of clothes that would satisfy consumer's desire by their expressing mode, I considered the processes of components of which fashion ads consist. As for the methods to study, I regarded the results presented from prior researches of clothing & textiles and other disciplines for the components of fashion ads and objectified their image that may be interpreted subjectively: and then, I adopted to analyse them using advertisement-semiological method to make clear the signifying processes. The results are as follow: 1. Fashion ad, one of visual symbols to transfer brand image, conveys the image with which various components are combined like model, clothes, setting and description as signs. ① the image of clothes amy be differently expressed according to social, cultural norm and individual characteristics, in the case of clothes, therefore, the signified can be regarded as the transferred image by design of the clothes① sign, and the abstract conception which may be rise to mind by the image in a ceratin culture. ② Each signifier such as countenance, line of vision, attitude and hairstyle of a model conveys different image, or the signified, respectively, and it amy operate as a sign that can express the brand image symbolically. ③ The signifiers like background, color and property symbolize the advertised merchandise of clothes and define it attribute.. 2. In the case of fashion ads, key referent systems are fashion phenomena, contemporary role image, social psychology, common morality, and social, economical and milieu.