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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
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Volume & Issues
Volume 6, Issue 4 - Dec 1998
Volume 6, Issue 3 - Sep 1998
Volume 6, Issue 2 - Jun 1998
Volume 6, Issue 1 - Apr 1998
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A Study on nam ja mok kai(南子木蓋)
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 3, 1998, Pages 1~5
The objective of this study was to identify and to interpret the word nam ja mok kai(南子木蓋) in Keirim Yusa(鷄林類事). Comparative linguistic analytical approaches ware employed for this research. Results and findings, of this study can be summarized as follows: It was fond that similar words to jamok kai(子木蓋) of Koryo were in Mongolic, Manchuric as well as in Hebrew. Thus, the word nam ja mok kai(南子木蓋) is not reversed word of nam mok ja kai(南子木蓋). The word jamokkai and the meaning of it were derived from Hebrew.
A Study on the Names of Boshon(보션) and Chung(청)
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 3, 1998, Pages 6~10
The purpose of this study was to identify and to trace origins of the names of boshon(보션) and Chung(쳥) used in Chosun period. Comparative linguistic analytical approaches were employed for this research. Conclusions and summary of finds and results of this study can be summarized as follows: It was found that the name, boshon had its origin in Aramaic, while the name, chung had its origin in Chinese. The word, boshon (보션) is a transliteration of Aramaic pattashehon, leggins. The name, boshon is a borrowed word from Aramaic. The word, bai shu(背戍) of Koryo period and the word, boshon(보션) of Chosun period were originated in one word, ai shu was taken from a singular form, while boshon was taken from a plural form. Because these two words in Koran have different phonetic values, ′they ar treated as tow different words. The name, chung(쳥) is a transliteration of Chinese cheuan, ch′"uan, Korean chung is a corrupted form of cheunan or ch′"uan.
Study on Clothing Folk Beliefs of Korea -Relating to Thoughts on Rightness and Wrongness-
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 3, 1998, Pages 11~20
The purpose of this study was to investigate the clothing folk beliefs of Korea and to trace thought on rightness and wrongness implied in them. Data were collected from 1980's and selections were mae from them for the analysis of this research. Results and findings of this study can be summarized as follows: Clothing folk beliefs related to thought on rightness and wrongness appeared in various ranges and ways. They included clothing behaviors, attitudes, clothing habits, grooming, as well as clothing related activities such as sewing, laundary, ironing and pressing activities so on. They also included time, place, and occasions. It was found that behaviors, attitude, and habits against social norms and cultural values on social orders were regarded as not right., Those behaviors, attitudes, and habits were discouraged with clothing folk beliefs. Clothing folk beliefs were used as a means of educating and disciplining tool using or appealing human psychology. Also it was found that Korean clothing folk beliefs were functioned as means of transmitting social norms and cultural values from generation to generation. Thus, clothing folk beliefs can be regarded as one of the important cultural elements of Korea as well as means of socialization tool that contains so man information about Koreans.
A Study on Fashion Show Project Management with the Aud of the Network Technique
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 3, 1998, Pages 21~33
A project manager is required to have systematic knowledge in the project management in fashion and apparel industry. The Network Technique is a modern project management technique and applies to almost all industry sectors, including fashion and apparel industry. Through the Network Technique, we can save project time and cost. The purpose of present study are - to introduce the Network Technique into fashion and apparel industry management area, and - to make an practical application of he Network Technique to fashion and apparel industry. For these purpose, fist we define the Network Technique, and then we apply it to fashion show as an example. Only time component is considered in this study. Cost component can be dealt with later on in the project planning area.
A Study on the Benefit Segmentation of Womens' Formal Suit in Checheon
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 3, 1998, Pages 34~45
The purposes of this study were 1) to segment the female formal suit market based on clothing benefits sought by housewives in Checheon 2) to compare the real and ideal self-image's relative power on the clothing benefits factor, and 3) to develop a profile of each segment concerning self-image (real and ideal), and demographics. The data wer collected via a questionnaire from housewives. Using factor and cluster analysis, four groups were identified and labeled as 1) Easy care oriented users 2) Aesthetics/fashion oriented users 3) Low benefit oriented users. ANOVA, Duncan's Multiple Range Test, Chi-square statistics revealed significant differences among the three groups according to clothing benefits, real and ideal self-image and demographic variables.
A Study on the Slacks Pattern for Women(1) -Depending on the Variation of Crotch Length and Front & Back crotch Width Extension
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 3, 1998, Pages 46~55
The purpose of this study was to develop the better fitting and more comfortable slacks pattern for women. 10 types of slacks pattern were made and worn compared with the sensory evaluations method. The main results of this study were as follows 1. Sensory evaluation for appearance; According to the result of means among the 10 slacks patterns, Type 2 method slacks was most satisfactory, and the next was the Type 4 slacks followed by Type 3, Type 5,6, Type 8, Type 1, Type 7, Type 9 Type 10 method slacks. 2. Sensory evaluation for comfort; The result of means showed that the Type 5 method slacks was most comfortable, and the next was the Type 3,8 slacks followed by Type 6,9 Type 7, Type 1,2,3, Type 10 method slacks.
A Study on the Origin and the Developing Process of Vest for Men
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 3, 1998, Pages 56~72
Vest is a general term for a sleeveless upper garment and it derives from a kolobus of a sleeveless tunic style that was started to be worn as a substitution of a chiton by the peasantry in Greek period. The kolobus started to be called a colobium or a tunica from Roman period and the former was named for a vest style tunica which was worn by the people of the lower classes in early Roman period. Similarly, a German colobium of North Europe which was worn during the same period was the same kind of clothe as the Roman colobium. The colobium came to be worn over a dalmatica as an outer garment by early Christians when it was the Middle Ages, who succeeded the tradition of colobium as they went through ancient Rome, Creek and Byzantine days. North Germans also succeeded the colobium tradition of ancient Germans as it was and so continued to wear it in tight style. The simple vest style of colobium was getting vanished from the mid of the Middle Agnes and a new style of vest named jupon was started to be worn by soldiers. The jupon was to protect soldiers' bodies from either were cold weather or enemies wearing under armors as it was made with double cotton pad by quilt. From 14th century, the jupon began to be worn by not only soldiers but also the humble of lower classes. All the jupon which were made in quilting and padding of that time began to be named a pourpoint by the humble. When Renaissance in 16th century came, the pourpoint began to be developed to an exaggerating body-line style. The neckline of pourpoint was getting highly influenced by Spain and a peacecod-belly of it emphasized the exaggerated masculine beauty of Renaissance by padding in round. The sleeves were puffed out and the whole purpoint was made to expose an inner chemise by slashing vertically or obliquely. But in 17th century, the pourpoint has been changed into more simple style without padding, puffing out and slashing influenced by the citizens' clothes of Netherlands. The pourpoint came to be more comfortable bulky style with short sleeves or sleeveless and straight side lines. The pourpoint in mid 17th century turned to be a bolero jacket style by gradually being tightened. It had been then changed into a vest style with sleeves and worn under an overcoat with the name of vest in the end of 17th century. The early vest was 2∼3 inches les in length than the overcoat and had long sleeves and many ornamental buttons on front. It was also made as a home wear to be worn it alone at home. In 18th century, the length of the vest became shorter compared with that of 17th century and the most important decorative item in clothes. It again came to have complete sleeveless vest style and had very short length reaching waist in the end of 18th century. When it was in 19th century, the vest had developed into more various style and colors and style had been applied to be worn by individuals with their tastes. Around the end of 19th century, the increasing tendency to be casual by industrialization influenced on clothes in all aspects of life and so the male vest has been gradually changed into more casual style. Nowadays, it has been developing into various uses in modern male clothes to show their characters.
A Study on Fashion Leadership and Information Seeking of Adolescents Related to Clothing Purchasing Behavior
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 3, 1998, Pages 73~87
The purpose of this study was to identify fashion leadership and information seeking as a part of adolescents'clothing purchase behavior study. The questionnaire was administered to 291 junior high school students. The data were analyzed using factor analysis, t-test and ANOVA utilizing SPSS/PC/sup +/. The results of this study were as follows: 1. The adolescents usually used store information seeking and consultation with friends as continuous information seeking. The adolescents usually read fashion articles in the fashion magazine more than fashion advertisements. As information seeking before purchasing, they watched store displayed or window displayed clothes the most, and then consulted with friends or family members. The degree of information seeking before purchasing was significantly different according to the number of purchasing clothes. 2. Three factors (mass communication informations, observation & personal information, and family members information) of information sources derived by factor analysis. 3. Three groups were classified as fashion leaders, fashion flowers, and fashion laggards according to fashion leadership. Girls perceived themselves as fashion leaders much more than boys did. There was significant difference among three fashion leadership groups in the number of purchasing clothes and price partially. 4. Fashion leaders seeked the continuous information and mostly used mass communication information sources and observation & personal information as information sources before purchasing clothes.
A Study of Modern Art and Fashion Trend Image -Based on after 1995 Fashion Trend-
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 3, 1998, Pages 88~99
Image of Modern Art & Fashion are created on the whole in daily life. Image itself is not simple. There is no more distinction between content & form through mutual crossing for intellectual thinking. Specially, image of reproduction circumstance too many mixtual and compromise (collage) are continued to occur. They could pursuit to change their image through the more increase of impulse, exception and popular experience. In this thesis, I studied about image of Modern fashion & Art. In the modern art, visual image showed as anti-beauty and combination of cultural system. It has shown in the theory of Fred Davis and through fashion brand advertising image as follows; Youth vs maturity (ageless image), male s female and androgynous vs unisexuality (genderless image), colligation vs monopoly (street mode image). As a results, the modern trend image are showing the value of the ambivalence. It can be said that he anti-beauty which are occasionally showed in ambivalence has shown a tendency toward another tradition (feminity) through giving an impulse and paradox.
A Study on Benefit Segmentation and Clothing Preferences
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 3, 1998, Pages 100~110
The purpose of this study is to find out the benefits sought factors of clothing and to segment the female apparel market to analyze clothing preferences and demographic characteristics of benefit segments. The subjects were 303 female in their 30's and 40's living in Seoul and the Kyunggi province. For data analysis, mean, Factor Analysis, Cluster Analysis, ANOVA, Duncan test, x²-test were conducted. The results are as follows: 1. Benefits sought by female were found to include five different factors-brand, individuality, fashionability, activity and economy. As a result of subdividing the female, five distinctive groups were formed on the basis of benefit factors-brand oriented group, indifference group, indifference group, fashion oriented group, economy oriented group, individuality oriented group. 2. Among the classified benefit groups, there were significant differences in clothing preferences according to fabric, style and color. 3. Among the classified benefit groups, there were significant differences in demographic variables according to the academic background, occupation of the subjects.
A Study on the Change of Underclothes Culture by Patterns of Wearing
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 3, 1998, Pages 111~125
What human beings wear is closely related to how they conceptualize their bodies and how they classify the group they belong to and the way they wear their cloth s an important cultural element that shows wearers' awareness and social relationship. Especially, underclothes reflect unrevealed cultural inside of the society more abundantly than outer wear do. Through such characteristics of underclothes, we are able to better understand inherent order of culture. This study si to understand the characteristics and changes of Korean culture by reviewing the convention of underclothes wearing that takes important role in clothing without being explicitly revealed. For this study, in addition to biblical review of under clothes of traditional societies, a total of 301 college students aging from 19 to 28, who are the most open to accepting new cultures and changes, residing in Seoul area were participant. Questionnaire consists of open-ended questions of underclothes terms, kinds, why they wear, items of wearing, how they obtained, how they take care of, etc. In conclusion, changes in cultural meaning of underclothes analyzed through convention of underclothes wearing are as follows; 1) changes in wearing pattern implies changes in functions of underclothes and changes in members' roles and values in a society; 2) changes in recognition of underclothes are related to the changes in awareness of sex; 3) consumer behaviour of underclothes represents a part of information culture; 4) changes in the pattern of maintaining underclothes show that differentiation of sex role in household tasks is decreased.
A Study on the Analysis of the Mechanical Beauty of the Art Style Represented on the Second Half of the 20th Century Fashion(II)
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 3, 1998, Pages 126~156
The purpose of this study was intended to analyze mechanical beauty of the art style represented on the second half of the 20th century fashion. From the early 20th century, when the mechanical civilization began to develop in full scale, various distinctive styles of art began to emerge by the denial of the traditional artistic style, which is said to be an inevitable consequence fo the 20th century's spirit. That is, the diversified styles of modern art, which has developed in line with the rapid growth of civilizations, experienced environmental pollution, non-humanization and un-individualization. Those phenomena became mental anguish for artists and designers, they have come to meet with changes, by their efforts to find new way. SO, the mechanical beauty is becoming a very important factor arts. Especially, the collage of the Cubism have used as art techniques of positive mechanical beauty. And in the transition from Dada to Surrealism, the objects provided an important harmony, suggesting that all things, even those achieved by chance or presented in new associations or radical dissociations, could be said to have meaning. Pop Art that expressed daily living of spending culture in the post industrial society, scaled up the induction of mass media which was much more realistic than Dada or Surrealism. According to the results of this study, the second half of the 20th century fashion has generated mechanical beauty was examined and plundered by modern art styles. The mechanical beauty of modern art was represented in the modern fashion as the positive and negative formativeness. Above all, the best way that the fashion design should take in the future, is in the search of ways how to restore humanity that was lost due to use of machine, how t develop its merits and how to harmonized with mechanical civilization.
A Study on Aesthetic Characters of Textile Design on the Modern Fashion -Concentrating on the 1990s-
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 3, 1998, Pages 157~174
This study investigated aesthetic characters of textile design on the modern fashion in 1990s. 1. Spiritual desolation caused by modern society of high-technology made people be interested in ethnic image. 2. It was expressed aesthetic beauty by application of various kinds of art for more new and creative designs. 3. Resistance against environmental pollution or ecosystem destruction caused by scientific technology and industrial development pursed ecology, so lots of natural patterns were used. 4. It was persued beauty of simplicity and visual angels by using geometrical graphism. 5. Self-consciousness or resistance of period was expressed by deconstructive symbol. Accordingly, textile design is expressed related to the trend of modern fashion, the current thought of the times, social phenomenon and art. So we need various analysis on above factors. Then, it will be helpful to develope the creative and distinguished fashion design.
Symbolism of Uniform in the Modern Korea
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 3, 1998, Pages 175~184
This study analyzes the symbolism of uniform in modern Korea, based on the symbolic interaction theory. I classify a representative symbol among many symbols in one uniform. I found the sex, age, occupation, situation, religious, group belogning,cleanlines,authority, superiority, and rank symbol in the modern Koran uniform.
The Study on the costumes in The Eldest Son of the Crown Prince(왕세손) Chac-Rae-Do-Gam Eui-gue(책례도감의궤)
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 3, 1998, Pages 185~200
The eldest son of the crown prince is very important social status next to the crown prince deciding fundamentals of a state in Chosun dynasty which laying stress royal authority. Accordingly, Chakbong(冊封) of the eldest son of the crown prince has been done independently like as Chakrei(冊禮) of the crown prince. The existig record of Chakrei(冊禮) of the eldest son of the crown prince. The existing record of Charkrei(冊禮) of the eldest son of the crown prince are Hyunjongwangseon(顯宗王世孫), Euisoseson(懿昭世孫), Youngjowangseson(英祖王世孫), Hungjongwangseson(憲宗王世孫) of 4 books for Chakreidogameuigue(冊禮都監儀軌) being preserved in Kyujangkak(奎章閣). The transition of classified clothes are stated on Wangse sonchakreidogameuiguebanchado(王世孫冊禮都監儀軌班次圖) for Chakrei(冊禮) of the eldest son of the crown prince. Its details are as below. Finally, there is no changes in constitution of the costume of the eldest son of the crown prince Chakrei(冊禮) called as Ssanggodong(雙童髮)·Gongjungchak(空頂 )·Ojangbok(五章服) on documentary records depsitefo no explanation of Banchado(班次圖). Secondly, The classified clothes of the eldes sion of the crown prince Hcakreibanchado(冊禮班次圖) are on
. We have acknowledged that Kwanmo(冠帽) of Dangbukwanwon(堂部官院) has been changed from Heugrib(黑笠) to Samo(紗帽) since Youngjowangseson(英祖王世孫), Euibok(衣服) from Chungpo(靑袍) to Nokdanryung(綠團領), the costume of Euijangsu(儀仗手) from Chunggun(靑巾) to Whangchorib(黃草笠) and changed again to Hongpimoja(紅皮帽子), Chungeui(靑衣) changed to Hongeui(紅衣). Also we know that Kwanmo(冠帽) of Kyogun(轎軍) has been changed to Pimoja(皮帽子) with high top, Chungeui(靑衣) changed to Hongeui(紅衣). The costume of Byulgam(別監) has been changed from Nokgun(綠巾) to Jogun( 巾), Nokpo(綠袍) changed to Pimoja(皮帽子) with high top, Chungeui(靑衣) changed to Hongeui(紅衣). The costume of Byulgam(別監) has been changed from Nokgun(綠巾) to Jogun( 巾), Nokpo(綠袍) changed to Hongpo(紅袍), that of Suri(書吏) changed from Chungeui(靑衣) to Huekeui(黑衣). Accordingly, the transition of costume color to red stands for the briliance. Thirdly, regarding the constitution of the eldest son of the crown prince Chakrei(冊禮), that of Euisoseson(懿昭世孫) & Youngjowangseson(英祖王世孫) are same for Unggolta(態骨朶), Youngjagi(令字旗), Keumdungja(金 子), Eundungja(銀 子), Mojul( 節), Jaksun(雀扇), Chungkae(靑蓋), Chungyangsol(靑陽率). In case of Hunjongseson(懿昭世孫), Baktakgi(白澤旗) is added. On Youngjowangseson(英祖王世孫), Chungilsol(靑日率) and Kiringi(麒麟旗) are added. However, we know that the constitution of the eldestson of the crown prince Hunjong(憲宗) Chakrei(冊禮) is quite different that of previous constitution. i.e. : Hongae(紅蓋), Baktakgi(白澤旗), Samkaggi(三角旗), Kagdangi(角端旗), Byukbonggi(碧鳳旗), Jujakgi(朱雀旗), Kuemdungja(金 子), Eundungja(銀 子), Eunribgwa(銀立瓜), Kuemhwanggwa(金 瓜), Eunhwhanggwa(銀 瓜), Kuemwolbu(金鉞斧), Bongsun(鳳扇), Huegkae(黑蓋). Also the kinds of Eujanggi(儀仗旗) are various which are similar to the constitution of The Crown Prince(世子) Chakrei(冊禮).
Classification of the Somatotype for Pre-School Children's Clothing Construction
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 3, 1998, Pages 201~216
This study is aimed at exploring a reasonable and reliable method of measuring pre-school children's somatotypes and there by, data basing the information obtained and classifying their somatotypes, at providing useful data which can be utilized for the design of their dress forms and enhancing the fitness of their apparels. to this end, 330 pre-school children living in the capital area and aged fro m4 to 6 were sampled to be subject to the measurement of their somatotypes. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. As the pre-school children grow, the scales indicating their vertical growth including height could well be measured differently, but those scales indicating their lateral somatotypes which reflect their postural changes did not show among age groups. in other words, male kids were higher in the scales including height than female kids, while there were not differences between sexes in most scales indicating their lateral somatotypes. 2. The elements comprising the somatotypes were the size of body skeleton, the thickness of body mass, the posture and shape of body mass, the lateral under-neck shape, the extrusion of belly, the length between front and the back shoulder, the shape of lower belly, the shape of upper hip, the shape of lower hip and the slope of shoulders. Among them, the first two elements accounted for 64.8% of the total distribution, which means that these two elements explain the body-mass somatotypes of kid's most effectively. 3. The sample kids were divided into two types for classification of their somatotypes. As a result, it was found that the elements determining their somatotypes most influentially are, unlike adults' case the size of body skeleton rather than posture or lateral body shape. The type I showed less dimensions in most scales than type II, while their shoulder were les developed,. The type I was found distributed much in 4-year-old female kids. The type II showing more development in each element was found distributed much in 6-year-old male kids.
A Study on the Men's Underclothes of Rococo Ages
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 3, 1998, Pages 217~227
Male underclothing during this period preserved in the shirt its former qualities though somewhat diminished. The habit of leaving much of the waist coat unbuttoned to display the fine quality of the shirt was more than evidence of social ranks : it appears to have had its attractions to the other sex. But in other respects man's underclothing was sinking into obscurity. This was due, in a great measure, to the closer fit of his suit, designed to exhibit the shape of his legs in breeches and stockings, leaving little opportunity for the display of garments beneath. With the latter part of the eighteenth century man's underclothing ceased to serve for sex attraction, a function on it has never regained, while continuing -in the shirt front and cuffs- to indicate class distinction, until, in modern times, that too has disappeared. The term 'smart' was coming into vogue to indicated the well-dressed man, and for at least a century after, the word implied tightfitting garments which, of necessity, reduced underclothing to a very subordinate function, so that only the shirt front survived for display purpose. Artificial calves was introduced by the Macaronis its purpose was to accenturate the captirating shapelines of the calf of the leg appearing below the tight breeches of the period.