Go to the main menu
Skip to content
Go to bottom
REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 6, Issue 4 - Dec 1998
Volume 6, Issue 3 - Sep 1998
Volume 6, Issue 2 - Jun 1998
Volume 6, Issue 1 - Apr 1998
Selecting the target year
The Satisfactory Rates among Korean Female Working Uniform
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 4, 1998, Pages 1~12
The research was done against female workers in public officers to find out the actual conditions and usage of uniforms worn in government and other public offices, to find out the degree of their satisfaction for it's appearance, costs, functions and representation. The research was done by questioning 402 female workers about their uniforms in various government and other public offices and the results analysed from the research are as it follows below. 1. The shape of uniforms in public offices were mostly in three piece(jacket+vest+skirt) shape, many of them in gray color and the material were made of blended fabrics. 2. The satisfactory garde of the uniform couldn't even reach the level of '3 point', in which it is easy to tell that the workers had low satisfaction with their uniforms. The level of satisfaction in it's appearance, functions, costs and representation were below average, the rankings starting with functions, representation, appearance, costs and it was shown that the most satisfied category was in it's functions and the lest in costs.
Effect of Neckline-Hairstyle Combinations on the Perception of Face Image and Type
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 4, 1998, Pages 13~25
This study focuses on the visual effects of various neckline-haristyle combinations on the perception of face image and type. The study employed a model with oval face and examined 35 combinations made up of five necklines and seven hairstyles. Looking at various face images depending upon different necklines, in case of round, V, boat square, and high necklines, long wave hair and medium wave hair produced a feminine image of marked individuality; long straight hair that covers the forehead and medium straight hair gave an image of charm and purity as well as an image of neatness; and long straight hair short cut hair showed an intellectual image. Regarding the perceptual type of face depending upon the different necklines of round, V, square, and high, the long straight hair covering the forehead and medium wave hair had the effect of an optical illusion that made the face look short and round; and short cut hair made the face line look distinct and the face look oval and slender.
A Study of the Wearing Sensation and Wearing Way of the Under Wear
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 4, 1998, Pages 26~38
This paper is based on a survey of consumers 'opinions on underwears. The questions in the survey dealt with what materials were used to manufacture underwears, which underwears were worn together in combinations, and how comfortable underwears were. In addition, the respondents were asked about how many pieces of different underwears they posses. Through such research, this paper aims to provide a guide to manufacturing domestic underwears that are competitive against foreign bands. 336 women in their twenties, thirties, forties and fifties from Seoul and it's suburbs were surveyed. Statistical analysis was performed by calculating the average, frequency and standard deviation, and through one-way analysis and the Duncan test. The following are the results of the study : 1. Consumers were moderately satisfied with Korean-made underwears. In order to complete with foreign brands, products with high consumer-satisfaction levels must be produced. 2. Upper garments usually consisted of brassieres with shoulder straps and sleeveless shirts. For lower underwears, most people tended to wear panties under girdle, with garlets on top. This is most likely the resut of more people wearing slacks than skirts. 3. Consumer in their twenties had anaverage of 1.71 slips, while those in their thirties had 3.07, those in their forties and 3.25, and people in their fifties had 3.88 slips. Thus the number of slips a consumer possesses increases as age increases. for socks, people in their twenties had 7.4 pairs on average, those in their thirties had 5.5, those in their forties had 6.7, and those in their fifties had 5.3. Thus, those in their twenties possessed the most number of socks. Consumers in their twenties also had the largest proportion of socks among all the types of hosiery combined, with 47.1% of their hosiery being socks. 4. Consumers did tend to prefer cotton underwears, but according to the type of underwears, producting using mixed fabrics of cotton and synthetic fibers were also frequently worn. 5. The shape and form of underwear that consumers prefer in a ceratin time frame varies according to the latest fashion in outer wear. Therefore, planning design of underwear products by predicting the future trend of outer wear fashion is necessary.
European Elements Appeared in Costume Materials of the North American Indian
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 4, 1998, Pages 39~49
When considering clothing of the North American Indians, it is important to understand historical background of the North American Indians. With the coming of he Europeans, the North American Indians adopted new materials of clothing and ornamentation and added European elements to their own dresses. New materials appeared in textiles, beadswork, and metalwork. The introduction of the "true" loom and steel needle by the Spanish led in the New World to the development of a weaving culture. Cotton cloth, in calico prints, gingham, or plain were made into dresses, and colorful applique, patchwork designs adapted from the white women. Cloth made an immediate impact, replacing skin that is so time-consuming in preparation. Glass beads, pony beads, seed beads and ribbons were used to create adornment Indian clothing. Brass, tin and silver were used among Indian metalworkers to make some ring, necklace, bracelet, etc.
Effect of Consumer′s Characterististics and Involvement on Infant′s Clothing Purchasing Behavior
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 4, 1998, Pages 50~61
This study aims to make clear how consumer's characteristic and involvement in infant's clothing effect on the purchasing behavior. Using questionnaire as a researching tool, I collected the date from 366 housewives who live in Seoul and have kids aged from two to six year-old. The results of the study were as follows : First, they showed a significance on the correlation between sub-variants of involvement in their child's clothing like interest, importance and cognition of danger and those of purchasing behavior like directions to trademark, beauty and practicality, and so that, ti was realized that the involvement have a great effect on their purchasing behavior like. This was of the same opinion that when they think economic significance seriously, they also think practical function importantly. It seems that such a result derived from the fact that infant's clothing is most involved in practicality and economy rather than in trademark, beauty and popularity which are important on adult's clothing because infant's growth is so rapid that it requires to change sooner. Second, as for the correlation between the involvement in their child's clothing and the purchasing behavior according with the consumer's characteristics, they showed a significant correlation according with the consumer's characteristics like husband's profession, average monthly income and monthly expense to purchase infant's clothing. I found, therefore, economic factors like husband's profession, average monthly income and monthly expense to purchase infant's clothing were of most important. It suggests that the higher the consumer's income is, the grater it have an effect on the purchasing behavior.
Semiotic Approach on the Signification of Clothing through Visual Mass Media -in a TV Serial Drama′Aein(Sweetheart)′-
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 4, 1998, Pages 62~73
This study focuses on semiotic significance of clothing, showed in visual mass media. This study will look into what general public understand from clothing and what influence clothing on visual mass media exert on fashion. This study employs an example, "Aein(sweetheart)", which was televised from 09/02/1996 till 10/23/1996. Some specialists(master′s degree or doctoral degree holders, or professors) of Clothing and Textile picked and analyzed scenes with specific clothing. The theoretical grounds of the analysis are 1) in what procession the significance operate from the view of mythological symbols by Bart, 2) what influences clothing on TV dramas exert on fashion. The outcomes of the study are followings: First, clothing′s signifying proces hs two dimensions; linguistic dimension and mythological dimension. Linguistic dimension which is regarded as general and unvariable and is related to the reproductive signifying operation, contributes to the creation of the characters including the characters′ social activities, professions, social or economic position. Mythological dimension which is related to the cultural and implicative signifying operation, played an important role in the development of the drama. Thus, it operates to create and deliver images including that atmosphere of he drama and the development of the story. Second, the TV media which is characterized with the form of centralized transmission and individual reception and the ability tro readily lead the fashion, has huge influence upon the fashion by properly creating mythological or linguistic dimension of the clothing in the drama, arousing the public′s sympathy, and stimulating the public′ immitation or conformity mentality.
Classification of Lower Body for Pre-School Children′ Apparel Design
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 4, 1998, Pages 74~83
The purpose of this study was to extract information of lower body type's classification on pre-school children. To this end, 325 younger children living in the capital area and aged from 4 to 6 were sampled to be subject to the measurement of their somatotypes. The results are as follows. 1. The changes in the physical types of pre-school children, as they growing older, show the following tow peculiarities, first, in terms of vertical change, the height grows so rapidly that the proportion of the lower part of the body gets longer. And second, in terms of horizontal change, their growth is more distinctive in the width and the girth than in the thickness, which transforms their body into more or loss a dumpy form. 2. The analysis of the lower body of pre-school children allows us to distinguish two types of group. The first type has a smaller body, short in every part of body, which represents the body of four year-old children. On the contrary, the second type show much bigger body, especially the lower part of the body having a longer proportion, and it represents the body of six year-old children. the physical type and the gender have no relation, which means that we cna fidn both male and female children uniformly in both types.
A Study on the Change of Furturism Style in the Costume -Giacomo Balla and Fortunato Depero-
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 4, 1998, Pages 84~103
The purpose of this study si focused on Futurism style and contemporary fashion in the 20th century, by researching the Giacomo Balla, Fortunato Depero, Tullio Crali, Erenesto Thayate characteristics fashion design. The results of this study are following as : The general traits of Futurism style are classified with aesthetics, formative characteristics. First, aesthetic characteristics are based on H. Bergson's life-phylosophy and F. Nietzche's art theory. Second, formative characteristics is Dynamism. Futurism Dynamism are classified with psychological Dynamism and physical Dynamism. Futurism trends in the costume : first, dynamism in fashion design, second, asymmetrical balance, third, formativeness, forth, technology, fifth, anti-traditionalism. Dynamism are expressed textile, pattern and costuem shape in contemporary dress. Asymmetrical balance are expressed costume silhouette shape and framework through the geometrical asymmetrical balance. Formativeness are agree with Paco Rabanne's fashion design expressed body and movement and phychological world of human through the secondly fabric. Technology are expressed new mechanical dynamism in used technology art and new fashion material by metal. The last, anti-traditionalism is recognized new value and idea in fashion.
A Study on the Predictable Variables of Impulse Buying by College Women′s Clothing Shopping Orientation -on Marketing Stimulus Factors and Information Source-
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 4, 1998, Pages 104~119
The purpose of this research were to classify college women's clothing shopping orientation and analyze the predictable variables of impulse buying. The results of this research were as follows ; 1. Clothing shopping orientation was classified leisure pursuit, economic, careful and name brand preferring shopping. With reference to leisure pursuit and economic shopping, they were classified into four types, low shopping involved shopping type, economic shopping type, leisure pursuit shopping type, and high shopping involved shopping type. The low shopping-involved and the economic shopping types made much of planned buying. The planned impulse buying, reminder impulse buying, fashion oriented impulse buying and pure impulse buying were highly evaluated in the high-involved and the leisure pursuit shopping types. 3. The high shopping-involved and leisure pursuit shopping types were more likely to do impulse buying than low shopping-involved and the economic shopping types. 4. The most important factor for the four groups was design. Quality, color, utility were followed by design. 5. Impulse buying behaviors of four groups could be predicted by the information source and the marketing stimulus buying.
Taxonomy of Apparel Buying Decision Approaches among Female College Students
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 4, 1998, Pages 120~135
The purpose of this study were to develop the taxonomy of apparel buying decision approaches and to identify the relationships between the apparel buying decision approaches and the situational characteristics. Data were collected via a questionnaire developed on the previous studies and the focus interview from 425 female college students living at Pusan, and analyzed by Factor Analysis, Cluster Analysis, Analysis of Variance, and Discriminant Analysis. Results indicated that apparel buying decision approaches consisted of eight dimensions and situational characteristics of affecting a particular apparel buying decision approaches were composed of three or five factors. The four types of apparel buying decision approaches were derived by Cluster Analysis and ANOVA: Recreational Shoppers, Brand Conscious Shoppers, Quality Conscious Shoppers, and Apathetic Shoppers. The findings revealed some patterns that were similar to previous studies and was useful to marketing managers who can view their customer segments in terms of the types in the taxonomy. Further, it provided a tool by which sales representatives can develop adaptive selling approaches based on a small set of buying situation and corresponding apparel buying decision approaches.
The Buying Behavior of Apparel Retail Buyers ; Satisfaction with Store Performance, Vendor Selection Criteria, and Information Sources
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 4, 1998, Pages 136~148
A apparel retail buyer played an important role in the market by providing apparel products for consumers and acting as an specialist who selected the vendor and decided the apparel product assortment. The purpose of this study was to investigate the relationships among the vendor selection criteria and information sources used by retailers and the satisfaction with store performance. A questionnaire was developed based on the previous studies and pretest. Data were collected from 237 retailers for women's apparel living in Pusan. Results indicated that they didn't significantly relate among the vendor selection criteria, information sources and the satisfaction with store performance except the harmony of buying products and existing products. Only the age and the buying experience showed significance in relation to demographics of apparel retailers among the vendor selection criteria, information sources and the satisfaction with store performance. The information source affected the vendor selection criteria was the street fashion, the apparel of entertainers, the other apparel buyer, and the owner of production. The findings had implications for retailers as well as for researchers.
A Study on Effective Using Method of Apparel CAD System in Clothing Industrial
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 4, 1998, Pages 149~161
The purpose of this study was to present the effective activation of apparel CAD system and for this, the investigation of actual condition of CAD using companies and comparative inspection with the advanced study were carefully considered. The results were as follows : 1. The investigation result of the system using enterprises is that the direct effect from the operation of the CAD system after its introduction was the promptness, ad the indirect effect of it was the growth of operation level and operating reliance. 2. The problem originated from the system was the uncertainty of employer effectiveness and the financing source for it when introduced, and the lack of consciousness of it when operated. 3. The using level in pattern manufacturing function was lower than that in grading and marking. Therefore, as the full automation in CAD system is a part of CIM construction and the direction to which apparel companies should go, a firmly connected system between management & the persons in charge in apparel companies, facility supplying companies, universities & other educational institutes, and the Government should be duly constructed first of all n order to achieve this aim.
Clothing Purchasing Behavior and Clothing Dissatisfaction of the Aged Women in Korea
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 4, 1998, Pages 162~174
Though the growth rate of the population of aged people in Korea is rapidly rising, research about this age group is relatively scarce compared to those about younger groups. This paper aimed to survey the clothing purchasing behaviors and clothing dissatisfaction of the aged women in Korea. A questionnaire concerning demographic status, clothing purchasing behaviors and clothing dissatisfactions was administered to 430 aged women residing in Seoul. Results showed that the aged women are as much well-planning, logical, and consumer-right-conscious purchasers as they are aesthetically demanding. 9 factors including product quality, design, sales service qualities revealed to be important factors explaining their dissatisfaction. But the strongest clothing dissatisfactions of the aged women were found to be those factors related to high price, lack of exclusive merchandising practices for the aged, and difficulty in the handling of clothing items. Their age and income status had partial influence on their purchasing behaviors and clothing dissatisfaction.
A Study on Developing Hat Patterns for Korean Young Women -for Women in Their Twenties-
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 4, 1998, Pages 175~187
Hats are an important part of the fashion accessory business and Their importance is increasing year by year. Their importance is increasing not only as a means of accessory ut also as a means of sportswear due to the leisure-sports boom of the 90's. As hats are becoming more and more popular and ready-made, demand for comfortable and easy-fitting hats are increasing. Being an piece of apparel, fitting is very important factor in hats as well s in other forms of clothing. But many hat-wears complain of dissatisfaction of fitting of their hats. In addition to this, another problem is hat most hat designs have been flown in from the West without inspection of their fits. Designs to fit the Koran face and head have not been developed properly. This study is based on the need for the development of a well-fitting hat pattern design for Korean young women. After taking actual measurements of 170 young womens, a size system was organized for developing patterns for different size groups.
Future Image Expressed in Contemporary Fashion Design
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 4, 1998, Pages 188~202
The purpose of this study is to analyze how future images are embodied in contemporary fashion design. To find out future images expressed in contemporary fashion design, this paper characterized the future society as information society, network society, pluralistic society, and global village. Cyber design and techno-style expressed through metal or lustrous material which is influenced by information symbolize future image. Also, minimalism which is characterized as simplicity and purity affects the contemporary fashion design. The network society which affets t the horizontal and functional social system diminishes the meaning of socio-economic status. Therefore, street fashion has diffused to high fashion, and the formal wear has tendency to be changed into casual wear. In addition, the meaning of status symbol in contemporary fashion design become decreased. The pluralistic society affects to search for one's own personality and identity. Also, contemporary fashion design is influenced by post-modernism and deconstructionism. In order words, genderless, ageles, seasonless, and infra fashion appeared. The global village emphasizes extension of universality in life style and search for world quality. so, ethnic fashions appear frequently in contemporary fashion design. Also, the effects of Korean traditional costume to contemporary fashion design has increased.
A Study on the Men′s Underclothes of Baroque Age
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 4, 1998, Pages 203~212
During the Baroque Ages, the underclothes of both sexs developed a new significance. They ceased altogether to be merely utilitarian in function, and were exploited, to a striking degree, to indicate class distinction and sex attraction. Up to this period, as e have seen, the underclothes of men and women had very much the same significance, but from now on there is a division. The male garments are designed mainly to express social rank, the female mainly to attract. The man's shirt is an integral part of the visible costume of the find gentleman. After 1660, The fashion portrayed by the men, exhibiting the shirt extruding between the bottom of the waistcoat and the top of the breeches is still more remarkable and significant. The period is important in that it was the last time that the male attempted to give his under clothing an erotic suggestion. It was their experience that silk and linen garments next to the skin were less liable than wool to harbour lice. Until the era of physical cleanliness opened a century later, woollen undergarments were rarely worn. the nineteenth century accepted cleanliness as a sign of class distinction.
A Study on the Characteristics of Post-Modernism Expressed in Costume
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 4, 1998, Pages 213~228
The purpose of this study is to defined the conception and characteristics of Post-Modernism and dealt with how they are expressed in costume. Major characteristics of Post-Modernism are Historicism, Pluralism, and Eclecticism and these are reflected in the costume. 1. Historicism of Post-Modernism is a trend recreate artistic symbolism which Modernism lacked in reference to historical factors of the past. It has been as a trend of restoration and an ornamental trend can be included in the category of historicism in that it restored historical ornaments. 2. Pluralism of Post-Modernism means an open-hearted attitude toward everything. In costume, it has been expressed as a trend of mixed fashion style such as ecology, street fashion and futurism, collapse and mix of genres, diversity of materials and emphasis on texture caused by assemblage, change of the use to escape from the conventional system and avant-garde. 3. Eclecticism of Post-Modernism is expressed as a blended fashion style based on the principal of de-dualism. It has several trends ; exotic trend by mixing both oriental and western culters, androgyny which is a mixed image of an and woman, and a trend to use many kinds of materials together influenced by collage which is an eclectic mode.
Ventilation Efficiency of Clothing through Openings under an Isothermal Condition
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 4, 1998, Pages 229~237
The ventilation efficiency of clothing was investigated by a trace gas method using a manikin wearing an impermeable overall under an isothermal condition, where the ventilation occurred only through the openings by diffusion. The ventilation patterns were different for each part of the body. The ventilation efficiency in the clothing microenvironment of the arm and the leg greatly depended on the distance from each opening when the wrist- or the ankle-opening was opened. When both side of wrist- or ankle-openings were opened to provide the opening area double respectively, the ventilation efficiency did not correspondingly increase twice, as compared one side opened. Even though it as certainly affected by the opening area, the ventilation efficiency was more significantly influenced by the position of openings.
Comparisons of Body Proportions between Caucasian and Asian Women -Focused on Petite Size-
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 6, issue 4, 1998, Pages 238~246
According to several pilot tests, petite women have their own body proportion which is not simply an overall diminutive reflection of the proportion of Misses sizes. Apparel manufacturers and pattern companies do not consider racial differences nor do they consider petite women's own specific body proportions in their size categories to produce petite garments. The primary objectives of this study was to describe the petite women's body proportions especially the differences between Asian and Caucasian petite women and to compare their body proportions to the average body figure. A physical body measurement chart was developed and revised through a pretest. Sixty subjects, thirty for each group of Asian and Caucasian. They were landmarked using an anthropometric instrument and photographed using the method of somatography for analysis of body proportions. Data were analyzed by t-test for a description of the petite subject's body proportion. The results of this study indicated that the Caucasian subjects had generally a longer lower torso than tehAian subjects in their body proportions. both subject groups had differnt body proportions from the aerage body figure.