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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
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Volume & Issues
Volume 7, Issue 6 - Dec 1999
Volume 7, Issue 5 - Oct 1999
Volume 7, Issue 4 - Aug 1999
Volume 7, Issue 3 - Jun 1999
Volume 7, Issue 2 - Apr 1999
Volume 7, Issue 1 - Mar 1999
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A Study on the Costumes of the Entertainers of the Three kingdoms in Sam-Guk-Sa-Ki(三國史記)
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 2, 1999, Pages 205~210
This study is concerned with the costumes of musicians and dancers of the Three Kingdoms recorded in Sam Kuk Sa Ki(三國史記). Costume names of musicians and dancers of Silla, Koguryo and Backje were traced and examined for this research. Results of this study can be summerized as follows : 1. head gears of entertainers of the Three Kingdoms were different from one another. 2. Wide sleeved robes were worn by the entertainers of the Three Kingdoms ; however, entertainers of Silla and dancers of Backje wore purple robes whereas entertainers of Koguryo wore yellow robes. 3. Belts of the entertainers of Silla wore belts, made of red leather and decorated with gilt ornaments while the entertainers of Koguryo wore belts made of purple ra. 4. Entertainers of both silla and Koguryo wore black leather boots where as dancers of Backje wore leather shoes.
A Study on the Textile Terminologies in Kei Lim yu Sa(鷄林類事) I
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 2, 1999, Pages 211~219
The purpose of this study was to trace and identify termilogies recorded im kei lim yu sa. ma(麻), kyun(絹), po(布), je(苧), and je-po(苧布) were included in this study. For the analysis of this research comparative analytical methods was employed. Some significant findings and results of this study can be summarized as follows : 1. Text : hemp is called san(麻曰三). The word san of Koryo was derived from Indian sann, san, sana, sunn, 2. Text : Kyun is called jyi or kib(絹曰及). The word jyi(及) of Koryo was from jyi or kib() of Silla. 3. Text : Hemp cloth is called bey(bei), pey(pei), bai(布曰背). Be (베) has two meanings of hemp cloth and cloth in Korean. In the text it is interpreted as hemp cloth. 4. Text : Ramie or China grass is called mar, maw, mao, mu (毛). (苧曰毛). It is considered that the word mau(mo in Korean) (毛) in text is correct and word mau(毛) meaning China grass of Koryho is derived from mah or mak that is an old Egyptian name for flax or linen. The word mau(mo) (毛) of Koryo seems to be a transliteration of mah(or mak) in Korean or a variety of it. 5. Raime cloth or China grass cloth is clalled mau shy (苧布曰毛施). Silmar words to mau shy(毛施) of Koryo were found in Chinese, Manchurian and japanese as well as in Ancient Hebrew.
잇사매와 함사매의 名稱
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 2, 1999, Pages 220~224
This study is concerned with the names of is sa mai(잇사매) and ham sa mai(함사매). Origins and meanings of these terms were traced and examined. Some significant findings can be summarized as follows : Korean word is sa mai(잇사매) was a compound word. Korean character is (잇) is derived from Chinese character i, and sa mai(사매) in Korean means sleeves 神 in Chinese character. The character ham in Ham sa mai(함사매) is its origin in Chinese : Korean character ham was Korean pronounciation of the Chinese character, han. ham sa mai is a compound word of ham(함) (Korean), (han ) (Chinese) and sa mai(사매) sleeves(Korean). Thus, first characters of is(잇) in is sa mai(잇사매) and ham(함) in ham sa mai(함사매) are originated from Chinese, where as the word sa mai in the end of is sa mai and ham sa mai is pure Korean. Both character i and ham(han, Chinese) in Chinese means a jaw. Thus, both is sa mai(잇사매) and ham sa mai(함사매) means “jawed sleeves”. That is long and wide round sleeves with narraw wrists.
A Study on the Name of Ho-Su(胡神)
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 2, 1999, Pages 225~229
The purpose of this study was to trace and to identify the origin and meanings of the word ho-su(胡神) that is found in historical documents of Chosun dynasty period. Historical documents, books, and other written materials from Korea and China were used for this research. The word ho-su(胡神) of Korea was originated in Chinese. At the first, ho-su(胡神) was a name of a kind of sleeves. It is long and wide round sleeves with narrow wrist parts. The character ho(胡) means a jaw, lower part of a jaw, a jaw hung down, hing down and lower part. Thus, the word ho-su(胡神) is a compound word made with character ho(胡) and character su(神) sleeve. The direct meaning of ho-su(胡神) in characteristic shape of the sleeves. The second meaning of the ho-su(胡神) is the name of a dress with long and wide round sleeves with narrow wrists. The name of the ho-su as a name of a dress was taken from the name of the ho-su(胡神), a kind of sleeves.
The Changes of Korean Fashion in the Period of Japanese Rule Via the Advertisement of the Mall Shin Bo
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 2, 1999, Pages 230~241
The purpose of this study is to classify frequency of advertisement and types of advertisement by items and to analyze a primary factors were factors were reflected in the costumes by a policy of rule under the Japanese rule. Data was MaIl Shin Bo\`s advertisement connected with costumes from 1910 to 1945 years. The results are as follows : 1. The order of the advertisement\`s frequency was footwear, cosmetics, soap[, headgear, western style clothes, precious metals and so on. 2. The type of the advertisement was a format that transmits informs in all items. Cosmetics, hairdye and shampoo applied positive appeals. 3. In the military government, the advertisement\`s frequency connected with costumes was 37.5% and a shoe store was the first order. A shoes and headgear were high level, because of these were essential imports and were allowded as a proper articles for a western style clothes by a civilized policy. In the political periods of civilization, the advertisement\`s frequency connected with costumes was 54%. This result indicates industrial development of this period. Soap was the first order during 1924∼1933 and cosmetics was the first order during 1934∼1940. High level of the advertisement\`s frequency in these imports were reflected by a cultural policy as a link of an appeasement measure In the political periods of a racial liquidation, the advertisement\`s frequency connected with costumes was 8.5% and the advertisement\`s order by items was cosmetics, a shoe store. The reason was that reflected the phases of the times that was serious by a shortage of goods and an reinforcement of wartime\`s attitudes throughout war.
A Case Study of Chulik Construction in Early 16th Century -Based on the Shroud from Heumjo Kim`s Grave-
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 2, 1999, Pages 242~256
A Study on the construction of Chulik in the early 16th century based on the shrouds from the excavated grave of Kim, Heum-Jo(1461∼1528) is reported in this paper. This paper first reviews the general construction methodology found in the shrouds from other graves in early 16th century revealed from a report on Chulik from the excavated grave of Kim, Heumjo. This paper finds that there exist at least three different Chulik forms according to the ratios between upper portion and lower portion in Chulik. The upper portion to the lower portion ratio grows with time. Among the three forms, this Chulik of interest falls in the first one of the three forms. This new finding of the chronological evidence for the first category of the three forms provides us the latest chronology for the first category, which is up to the year 1567. This paper also shows that the second and the third categories of Chulik in early Chosun Dynasty lasted until 1580\`s and until 1590\`s, respectively. Several remarks on construction methodology found in the Chulik of interest are also reported in this paper.
The Types of Clothing Care according to Change of Clothing
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 2, 1999, Pages 257~274
Clothing care has been changed with the times condition of clothing to social and economic background. Nowadays, it needs reasonable and saving clothing care for home economy under the IMF structure. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to find out development and proper type of clothing care at the present to change of clothing in the newspaper from 1910 to 1998. The development of clothing care can be divided five steps as clothing care in home, spare clothing care, clothing care in the professional shop, re-used clothing care, economic clothing care. This study classified types of clothing care to typical purpose from these five steps. Results were as follows; The types of clothing care are for long wearing, reduction of clothing expenses and domestic duties, new designed clothes from unused clothes, re-use preserving environment. The practice of reasonable and economic clothing care at the present is desirable for reference clothing care in the past.
A Study of the New Body Surface Area Calculation for Twenties Women
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 2, 1999, Pages 275~288
The purpose of this is providing a simple, relatively errorless body surface area calculation. Subjects were 10 married women and 10 singles women whose age was 20 to 29 years old. The Gypsum method has applied for the sampling of body surface. The Weight method has been used to measure body surface by means of transferring gypsum shape on uniform plane polypropylene films. In this study, compare analyzed errors between the traditional formulas for measuring body surface area and measuring data in this experiment. More than all, it has been to induce a regression equation for measuring body surface area, which is so simple to calculate with less errors, with variable factors as weight and height. The results of this experiment as follows : 1. In the traditional formulas, weight formula was shown high average error : Niya\`s height formula. which was modified K value as 0.62 in the height formula (S = KH) is shown lower average error than Lassabliere\`s Height formula. 2. In the weight-height formula (S=K √WH), it was shown high average error according to the increasing of K value. Kawanami\`s formula, which 5.378 as K value, was shown low average error both the singles and the married women. 3. Dubois weight-heingt formula (S=W/sup a/·H/sub b/·K) was shown low average error than the weight, height, weight-height (S=K√WH) formula. 4. The regression equations with variable factors as weight and height are 156.74W + 86.05H - 660.25 (Single women) and 136.02W + 90.57H - 6241.32 (Married women) the average error and absolute average error to the singles are 0.09%, 0.94% and resoectively -0.13%, 1.16% for the married women.
A Study on the Adaptive Dress for the Disabled Elderly -Nursing Facilities for the Elderly in Seoul and Kyoungin Area-
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 2, 1999, Pages 289~303
This study aimed to provide basic data for designing adaptive dresses for the disabled elderly. The procedure of this study consisted of 3 parts ; 1. the survey of 205 nursing-care providers who take care of the disabled elderly, 2. the market survey of dadptive dresses for the disabled elderly, 3. wearing-tests of those adaptive dresses which are in the market. The results are as follows ; 1. The most popular style for the disabled elderly in nursing facilities was non-collar, regular pajamas. And the most favorite design was a pajama\`s style which has no collar but has a round neckline, front opening and 7/10 length shirt\`s sleeves, with pants of an elastic band waist. And the most desirable fabric was a physiologically comfortable one. 2. The system of adaptive dress sizes for the Korean elderly consisted of 85, 95, 105 ㎝, while that for the japanese elderly was divided into F/S/M/L/LL according to gender. 3. In the case of a pajama\`s style. it is necessary for the elderly men in the facilities need bigger sizes for their jump suits. When we tested the adaptive dresses for the elderly in the nursing facilities, in the case of a pajama\`s style, it was most difficult for us to pull pants over around the buttocks. In the case of jump suits, it was most difficult for us to dress and undress the adaptive dresses around the chest.
An Analysis of Condition on Clothing of Disability
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 2, 1999, Pages 304~314
The objective of this study was to investigate clothing of disability for using to base data for development of human design clothing of disability. Data were obtained from 138 disability in the occupation school at Illsan and the association of disability at Seoul. The results were as follows. 1) Factor of diability were 21.8% by natur, 78.2% by posteriori. 2) Unsatisfier on ready-made clothing were infantile paralysis 20.6%, spinal obst-ruction 16.7%, physically handicapped 15%. 3) Apparel wore ready-to wear 64%, repaired ready-to wear 27.8%, home-to wear 0.7%.
The Acquisition and dyeability of Gardenia jasminoides Colorant
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 2, 1999, Pages 315~322
The acquistion and dyeability of the Gardenia jasminoides were examined to establish the optimum condition for extraction and storage in the process of obtaining the natural dye, Gardenia jasminoides colorant. Also the dyeability and colorfastness of Gardenia jasminoides were investigated. The results of this study are as follows. The optimum part-removed seed. In all experiments, the part of fat-removed seed and pericarp was used. The optimum condition for extraction of Gardenia jasminoides colorant was at 40℃ and for 90 min. in methanol. As storage temperature was higher, the absorbance of colorant extract decreased rapidly. The Gardenia jasminoides colorant exhibited dyeability to cotton, silk, wool, and nylon. The dyeability was the greatest in wool, and then nylon, silk, and cotton. Both wool and nylon had the greatest K/S value at pH3, however, nylon and cotton at pH 6 and pH 8 respectively. In addition, the increase in K/S value corresponded to temperature in wool and nylon, but the silk and cotton had the greatest K/S value at 60℃. Also, the K/S value increased in concomitant with the increased number of dyeing repetition. In the most cases, colorfastness of light was weak but colorfastness of laundry, sweat was relatively excellent.
A Study on the Formative Features of Black Fetish Fashion
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 2, 1999, Pages 323~333
The purpose of this study was to analyze the meaning and formative features of the black color reflected on the fetish fashion. This study was proceeded mainly by analyzing with references and plates of magazine. The results of the study were as follows ; First, the sexual liberation and revolution have certainly led to a reassessment of sexual deviations, which changed the meaning of fetishism that has been only regarded as sexual perversion, so that it symbolied a new sexual perception and identification. As the result, black in fetish fashion was symbolized a new fetishism\`s definition which refused to distinguish male from female, and also reflected the meaning to express the second sex that wanted to express themselves. Second, the formative features of black color in fetish fashion have appeared tightness and bareness in form, and in material, glancing materials changed by the effect of light, and elasticity materials-leather, rubber, PVC, and laycra. By these features, black fetish fashion has drawn a higher attention on human body than the dress itself as a symbol about the psychology of erotic sensations and sexual images of the self appearing in black color.