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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 7, Issue 6 - Dec 1999
Volume 7, Issue 5 - Oct 1999
Volume 7, Issue 4 - Aug 1999
Volume 7, Issue 3 - Jun 1999
Volume 7, Issue 2 - Apr 1999
Volume 7, Issue 1 - Mar 1999
Selecting the target year
A Study on the Costume Accessories of Shilla in Sam Kuk Sa Ki(三國史記)
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 3, 1999, Pages 1~16
This study in concerned with the costume accessories appeared in Sam Kuk Sa ki. The accessories of both sexes were analized. Results of this research can be summarized as follows : It was appeared that names of accessories of men were fewer in number than those of women. Men\`s accessories such as a hat, bok-du, a belt,boots, shoes, and sock were mentioned in Sam Kuk Sa Ki. Women\`s accessories appeared such as a hat, a comb, a hair pin, a belt, shoes, and sock. A bok-du, boots, and a hared belt were used exclusively by men, while a hat, kwan(冠), a comb, a hair pin, a scarf, pyo( ) were worn exclusively by women. All men from different classes including true bone class as well as the common class wore bok-du, a hat, a hard belt, boots, sock ; however, class distinctions were made from materials used for those items. Also women\`s accessories were used as means of differentiating social status of the wearer by means of materials employed for each item. Especially, woman\`s hat and scarf were a symbol of the noble class. Only two classes of women from the true-bone class and women from the sixth du-pum class entited to wear hats. Wearing a scarf was not allowed to women from the common class. Class dirrernetiations were made by the materials used for hats and scarves. Materials for a scarf such as gold and silver leaf, pecock tail, and king fisher fly feather were restricted to women from true-bone class. Such as man\`s hat bok-du( 頭), use of women\`s comb and hair pin, scarf, leggings were items drived from Tang China. It clearly showed that costume accessories of Silla were heavily influenced by the Chinese. At the same time the costume accessories were sued to make sex difference among the people of Silla. Woman wore a soft belt made of cloth while man wore a hard belt. Woman\`s hat, a scarf, a comb, a hair pin, a belt or sash for a shirt, and leggings were woman\`s sex symbol. Thus, costume accessories of Silla appeared in Sam Kum Sa Ki functioned as means of differentiating social status of the wearer such as sex,class and rank in the society. Also, they showed that Silla kingdom had close cultural relationship with Tang China.
A Study on the Name of Ho-Su(好袖)
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 3, 1999, Pages 17~21
The purpose of this study was to trace and identify the word, ho-su(好袖), appeared in Sejosillok(世祖實錄). The results of this research can be summerized as follow : the word, ho-su(好袖) was one of the names of sleeves of so-o-sa(小 子). The ho-su(好袖)is a kind of round sleeves with small wrists. The ho-su(好袖) was a synomym of hak-su(鶴袖). The word, ho-su(好袖)is Korean transliteration of ho-su(好袖). Although the first characters of ho-su(好袖) and ho-su(胡袖) are different from each other in Korean, the sounds and the meanings of these two words are the same. Ho-su(好袖), ho-su(胡袖), and hak-su 鶴袖are synonyms.
A Study on the Name of Ho-su(好袖) of Chosun Period
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 3, 1999, Pages 22~34
The purpose of this study was to trace and identify the origin and the meanings of the word ho-su(胡袖) of Chosun dynasty period. Findings of this study can be summerized as follows : The original meaning of the word ho-su(胡袖) is a name of round sleeves. Later it was used as a name of a dress with round sleeves. The word ho-su as a name of a dress is an abbrecviated form of ho su so o za(好袖小 子) of a previous period. The word jyo go ri(赤古里) in historical documents is anothor name of so o za(小 子). Wearing the ho-su(胡袖) was restricted to royal family women. It was included in royal women\`s wedding garments as ordinary use. Colors of this dress was used as a means of differentiating the rank and position of the wearer.
A Study on Costume of Arctic Circles in Pacific Coast
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 3, 1999, Pages 35~49
The North Pacific Arctic region has common factors such as climatic characteristics and similarity of animals inhabiting the region. But also there exists geographical barriers that separates the tribes, different languages between the tribes. Although there are such differences, the clothing and ornaments of the region have relatively similar design and style. And above all possess the ‘spirit’. The tribes find the motives of such ‘spirit’ in human, animal, and soul\`s adaptability to change and in grafting such changes of forms into clothing. Especially as means of pleasing the animal that they vitally rely on, the tribes made the clothing as beautiful as the nature itself and they tried to connect the humans and animals universally through such clothing that have social, artistic, and enchantic conditions. The supply of raw materials of animals has elevated the creativeness one step up and the precise knowledge about fur show their superior techniques in making fur clothing. The use of gutskin has is an excellent example of such knowledge, which is very unique of the region. The gutskin has moderate plasticity and thus can be cut into all sorts of pattern. It harmonizes the functionality and practicality. The worldwide fashion trend is dominated by Western style, but the clothing of this region is still keeping its distinctive folk identity. At the start of the research, Kayak and itelmen tribes of Asia, the tribes of Amur river and Aleut and Tlingit tribes of North America seems to be geographically too far from each other and therefore searching theoretical background for common cultural origins seems to be immoderate. But lighting the fact that geographical adjacency that can be perceived through costume cultural history, is the most important factor that gives mutual influences to costume culture between the neighboring tribes, cultural relative similarity of the costume is influenced by geographical location rather than physical distance between the tribes. Also humans\` adaptability to their environment is seriously contaminated with man-made products. This study on North Pacific Arctic region is telling us many things about our past, present and future.
An Inquiry into the Taboo of the Burial Shroud
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 3, 1999, Pages 50~57
Folk belief, which originated with the rise of human existence is a fundamental and comprehensive mode of living that reflects sociocultural conditions. Adherents of folk belief accept a certain thing to be true and real without scientific authority and absolute certainty. Taboo can be seen as a king of folk belief. The object of this study is to examine the taboos in relation to the manufacturing process and the quality of the shroud and to shrouding customs. I will also try to find out the meaning and significance in this. Through this task, I hope to contribute to the enhanced understanding of the cultural characteristics, the spiritual life, and the views on after life of the Korean people. In Korea, it is considered to be propitious to prepare the shroud on the intercalary month of the leap year , as it allows one to enjoy longevity healthy and sound. Moreover, as this belief gives credence and repose while preparing for the “final departure”, this custom is relatively well observed. From the taboo concerning leap months, we infer that death as viewed as a commencement of a new life, which reveals a positive view on afterlife. This can be seen as a return to the origin of anti-universal space in this “bonus” month of anti-universal time. Taboos on the manufacturing process of the shroud is related to the belief that it allows the deceased to go the nest world without any hesistation or disturbances. This symbolizes the immortality of the human soul: I. e. that the human spirit does not end in this world but continues on to the next. Taboos concerning the preparation process of the shroud as well as various other taboos are related to the belief that preparation for the shroud should be done in sincerity and secredness with a thoughtful consideration for the deceased. This can be perceived as an implication to sanctity for the dead.
A Study on the Brand Identification Ability and Purchase Behaviors According to the Attitudes Toward Imported Casual Wears for High School Student
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 3, 1999, Pages 58~71
The purposes of this study were to investigate the differences inbrand identification ability, opinions on purchasing imported casual wears and purchase behaviors among the high school students grouped by the attitudes toward imported casula wears. Data were obtained from 452 high school students in Seoul by using self-administered questionnaires. Chi-Square Analysis and ANOVA by SAS statistical package were used for data analysis. The subject with favorable toward imported casual wears suggested higher price levels as appropriate price levels of jeans, were more positive about purchasing imported causal wears than the less favorable. Those with more favorable attitudes tended to purchase at individual stores and to have more experiences in purchasing imported brands, spent higher amount of monthly clothing expenditures, searched information mostly through the conversation with peers, and indicated design as the most important evaluative criteria used when purchase clothing. Most of the high school students relied on their parents as the sources of allowances to purchased clothing.
A Study on the Neo-Avantgarde Tendency Expressed in the Modern Make-up -with the Main Point of the Late 1990's Catwalk-
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 3, 1999, Pages 72~92
The purpose of this thesis is to review relationship between various expression method in modern make-up and the tendency of Neo-Avantgarde. In this paper, the author classified the distinctive characters in Neo-Avantagarde with Historicism, Decadence, Humor, and Inhumanism and explained innovation and creatio which is manifested in the late 1990\`s make-up by studying Neo-Avantgarde tendency expressed in modern make-up. The results are as follows. 1. The Historicism in modern make-up is expressed in Japanese Kabuki Make-up, Chinese Pecking Opera make-up, and Primitive mask Make-up in Africa. 2. The Decadence is manifested in Tattoo make-up which is expressing fetishism and fin-de-냗칟 image, and Snobism Make-up which is expressing selg-ostentation and eroticism with artificial nail and eyelash. 3. The humor appears to the Character Make-up copying the characters in doll plays, animation and juvenile story. In addition it is showed in Kitsch Make-up, which has vulagr, rustic and childish image by wearing so diffusive and cheap ornaments. 4. The Inhumanism is appeared in Graphic Make-up which is in the pursuit of the visual happiness. It includes simple geometrical type, drawing and coloring. It is also showed in Vampire Make-up, which means the make-up style mading horro, hizarrerie, and mistery by primary color(black and red) make-up. As the above, Neo-Avantgarde can account for the diversity and pluralism of contemporary make-up.
A Study on the Clothing Behaviors of the Korean Elderly Men
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 3, 1999, Pages 93~107
Elderly population of Korea has been significantly increasing, therefore, social and economical influence of the elderly people has been increasing, too. Recently, research regarding elderly people is important because many elderly men take care of their appearance and clothing, and clothing plays an important role in everyday life. The purpose of this study is to investigate the clothing behavior of men aged 55 years and older who were residents of Seoul. The data were collected with a interview and self-administered questionnaire at various places. The importance of various factors on clothing behavior is different. 2. Age has a negative relationship with conformity, but a positive relationship with aesthetics and satisfaction of clothing. Allowance has a positive relationship with all clothing behaviors factors excepts conformity. 3. Life satisfaction has a positive relationship with education and allowance, also, life satisfaction of occupation group is higher than no occupation group is higher than no occupation group. 4. Appearance satisfaction has not a significant relationships with age, but, has a positive relationship with education. 5. There are positive relationships between not only life satisfaction and clothing behavior factors, but also appearance satisfaction and clothing behavior factors except conformity.
The Research of Body Types of the Chinese College Women
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 3, 1999, Pages 108~120
This research analyzes characterization and classification of body types for the Chinese women with body measurement values. The measurement has gauged in 1999 in Beijing Institute of Clothing Technology in China. 100 women of the Chinese college women aged 17 and 24 in China were measured for this research. In the results of frequency analysis, the tall of Chinese women were 158.37㎝ and also has less than 150㎝ high, and has thick under bust circumference, and has a group of more than 18㎝ for width of nipple. In the results of factor analysis, Factor 1 represented the degree of abesity, while factor 2 indicated the stature and the arm length. The body types are classified into five types by cluster analysis. The stature and weight varied according to types, leading to a classification focusing on the body size determined by stature and weight factors.
Classification of the Somatotype and Characteristics for the Construction of Obese Boy's Clothing(Part II)
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 3, 1999, Pages 122~133
The purpose of this study was to classify the somatotype on obese boys of 9 to 11 years old and to make an offer the basis which would be suitable for basic pattern construction by studying of their characteristics, forms and shapes. For this study, data were analyzed by using of photographic measurements in regard to 40 variables. The factor scores used in factor analysis become the basis of determining the value of each variable of the cluster analysis. 1) Eight main factors were extracted from factor analysis. 2) Three types were classified by cluster analysis. 3) Correspondent analysis was applied to data of 4 types in anthropometry between 3 types in photometry.
A Study on Effective Fashion Illustration for Korean Middle Aged Woman -Focusing on the Standard Stomo type for Korean -
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 3, 1999, Pages 134~141
The purpose of this study is to provide new style for fashion illustration fo different image of Korean middle aged women. The research method is as follows. First, we make basic style base on The Korea Industrial Advancement Administration\`s Korean standard stomatype. Second, it give variety to body\`s rate and make each different 8 style. The subject are 144 college students who majoring clothing, fashion design and they have responded to the questionnaires. Questionnaires were taken from April, 1998 to Jan. 1999. Data were analyzes by analysis of variance, ANOVA test, Dunkun test, SPSS. PC/sup +/. As a result of this study, we found this following conclusions, 1. Well-proportion style have the exaggerated shoulder and the extended body at the same rate below waist line than basic style. 2. Reduction and extension need stability and well balanced. 3. Fashion illustration of middle aged women\`s clothing expression is not proper too narrow width, too long length of legs. 4. To making length, it is award well-proportion have too long hand or too long arm.
Conditions of Chemicals Exposure and Work Clothing for Farm Workers Using Agricultural Chemicals
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 3, 1999, Pages 142~153
The objective of this study was to analysis the pesticide chemical-using of farm workers and working clothes for diminishing the possible damage by their improper chemicals usages. For the data Questionairs were collected 340 from the farm families of the 3 different districts in Yeoju, Kyonggido, and also inquired of the persons in charge of the chemicals and of the laundry in each family. Among the replies, 233 was classified as useful, and analyzed the frequency, the percentage and correlation. The results were as follows : 1. 64.3% of the farmers were using the chemicals for 5∼20 years, of whom 33.6% experienced stopping of chemicals-using for health. 2. The applicators experienced poisoning symptoms such as habitual fatigue, hadache, dizziness, chest discomfort, eye irritation, skin irritation, blurred vision, vomiting, nausea etc. after chemical work. 3. 74.7% answered they did not obtained educational information for the care of chemicals contaminated clothes. 69.1% said they need to obtain educational information about safety awareness of agricultural chemicals.