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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 7, Issue 6 - Dec 1999
Volume 7, Issue 5 - Oct 1999
Volume 7, Issue 4 - Aug 1999
Volume 7, Issue 3 - Jun 1999
Volume 7, Issue 2 - Apr 1999
Volume 7, Issue 1 - Mar 1999
Selecting the target year
A Study on Fashion Business Reengineering for Korean Fashion Industry
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 4, 1999, Pages 1~13
The purpose of this study is to remind the necessity of reengineering establishment of future-oriented fashion industry and to research the devices for the devices for the system establishment at this present time when the consumer\`s demands level is extremely high. This research has been done by the literature review of the relative articles, books and the case study. First, through the analysis of the important changes and movements of fashion industry environment by the environmental interpretation model of Draft and Weick, the strategic development, corresponding the environment change of fashion industry, has been attempted. Second, this study examined QR integration management method according to the Kunz\`s behavior theory of the apparel firms. Third, as the prior occupation strategy regarding the things can be done very well from now on the things are needed, the necessity and establishment of SCM, based on companionship and beyond the boundary between the companies has been studied through the exchange of the data of manufacture and sales which has been regarded as the secret of the companies. Finally, to become a company to lead the market, in addition to the re-organization of the internal process of a company with the leadership which has the clear vision for the consumer\`s satisfaction, the process have ti be integrated under the cooperation with its business partners and the cost have to be reduces, and the which takes to correspond to the consumer\`s requirements have to be reduced.
The Analysis of Costume Role in Shakespearean Comedy
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 4, 1999, Pages 14~37
This study concerns the role of costume in Shakespearean comedy from the viewpoint of the role theory. The term “role” has been used to represent the behavior expected of the occupant of a given position or status. A specific role can not be successfully performed without the aid of the costumes. Costumes are adopted in relation with a specific role. The term ‘role’ had been borrowed from the drama. The similarity between the role on the stage and the role of the social man had been recognized. The typical examples in which the costume help to make access to a specific role and can be effectively exploited for the performance of the role are manifested in the comedies of Shakespeare. Thus, our goal in this study is to analyze the role of costume which appears in Shakespearean comedy from the viewpoint of the role theory. The role of social status and position reflects sex, age, occupation, class, economic position of the characters. In his works, the crown and the mace represented not only the throne but also a previllege and supreme position. The situation role of costume could be widely used for visualizing the psychological situation and external environments of the characters on the stage. The disguise role hided one\`s status, thereby makes possible acting other\`s position. And the disguise role can bring about the change of status, age, sex, occupation, and atmosphere. The costume also could symbolize the social status, position, rank, occupation, and the situation, and functioned as a media for delivering messages to others. The costume performed the role of the physical and psychic protection, and provided its wearer with consolation and peaceful mind. The costume reflected the costume of a society through its wearing condition and wearing configuration. The results obtained from this study can provide useful cues for understanding the role action in the social structure. This kind of understanding reveals the costume phenomena in real life, allows one to perform roles properly and efficiently, and opens our insight on the overall aspects of the costume culture.
Changing Process of the First Birthday Rite and Dress & Ornaments
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 4, 1999, Pages 38~51
A Study on the Tattoo Represented in the Modern Western Costumes
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 4, 1999, Pages 52~68
The purpose of this study was to be inquired inner contemplation of the tattoo expressed in the modern costumes. For this study, related documentaries and pictures or photos were analyzed in terms of the theretical background for the history of tattoo, the relation between tattoo and the modern western costumes. The primary source of pictures or photos are Vogue, Collections, Collezioni, Harper\`s Bazaar, Modain, Model et Mode etc. The human\`s needs of body decoration had constantly pursued on the body and costumes from the first until lately. Especially in the recents, as the tattoo is implicated a dynamic and charming method of all kinds of body decoration, it\`s used a motive of modern western costumes. The original tattoo means a picture, word etc. that was put permanently onto their skin using a needle and coloring matter. But, these days tattoo is an expression of street style for something new in the subculture. The results were as a follows : The inner meaning of tattoo represented in the modern costumes was classified into two categories. First, the tattooing was a very important factor to complete fashion design through the history of modern costumes, and also the elaborate tattoo of the body was displayed unrestricted formativeness as the skinhead\`s tattoo, raceless\`s ambiguity of street style and artistic decoration, because that can be faded easily. Second, Tattoo Look was expressed as tattoo prints of the see-through, elastic textiles in the modern costumes. That is, the tattoo enhanced the effect of dramatic atmosphere other formative arts as well as the modern costumes by Tattoo Look. Similarity, Tattoo Look could be interpreted as the change of the aesthetic consciousness by the influence of the subculture. Accordingly, in the end of a this century, many experimental designers had applied tattoo to modern costumes. So this study will stand as an important clue to foresee the future costume\`s style and change.
A Study on the Significance and Influence of Hippie Hair Style and Fashion
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 4, 1999, Pages 69~79
The study has the aim to now the significance of hippie dress and hairstyle and to understand the influence upon them in 1990\`. The results of this study are as follow. First, the results of the significance of hippie dress and hairstyle in 1960\` which and analized by the basis of pierce\`s semiotic theory showed social resistence, piece and anti-war, psychodelic, ethnic and nostalgia, and individualism. Second, studying the character of the end of 1990\` when hippie dress and hairstyle reappeared through related the papers, magazine, and articles, we could get the phenomenon of pastiche, postmodernism which had excepted the spiritual significance of hippie in 1960\`.
A Study on Deconstructional Methods in Mordern Fashion Design and Consumer Acceptance
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 4, 1999, Pages 80~98
The purpose of this study was to examine what consumers virtyally thought about deconstructional method used in fashion and its cloths. For attaining the purpose, earlier studies were reviewed to see what kind of deconstructional methods were used in fashion and its cloth, and questionnaire survey was carried out based on the result. 10 kinds of deconstructional method were surveyed : indeterminate form, lingerie look, layering, unsymmetrical form, seethrough cloth, slash or making a hole, fray, padded cloth, patchworked cloth, and wrinkled cloth. There appeared 6 kinds of image for deconstructional fashion, esthetics, womanliness, youth, elegance, uniqueness, and fashionability. Consumers considered most deconstructional fashion to be unique but unique but lack elegance. However, they didn\`t feel indeterminate form, fray or padded cloth was unique, and one notable thing was that they had an impression wrinkled cloth was graceful. The design assessed to be generally esthetic was lingerie look, laying, seethrough cloth and wrinkled cloth. Those who were older set more esthetic value on layering, seethrough cloth, fray, padded cloth and wrinkled cloth. On the contrary, they didn\`t have a good impression from slash, making a hole or patchworked cloth. As a result of investigating the subjects\` willingness to wear deconstructional design, there was deconstructional design which they might possibly put on, and those who were older found more difficulties in wearing ir. Toward indeterminate and layering fashion, younger people whose age was ranged from 18 to 22 or from 18 to 22 or from 23 to 27 showed particularly better response. Married woman wanted to wear wrinkled cloth, and considered it possible to put on seethrough design more than unmarried women. Rather, younger people were more unwilling to wear seethrough design.
A Study of the Casual Wear Purchase Behavior of the Adult Males
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 4, 1999, Pages 99~110
In order to help the marketers of the men\`s casual wear brands establish the marketing strategies to their target consumers, it is the purpose of this study to investigate on the variables affecting the casual wear purchase behavior of men in twenties, thirties and forties, and to clarify the differences of casual wear purchase behavior according to their age, The subjects were 429 men in their twenties, thirties and forties living in Seoul and data were analyzed by frequency, percentage, mean and standard deviation, x², ANOVA and Duncan\`s test. The results were as follows : (1) Significant differences were found among men in twenties, thirties and forties according to the self-image. Men in forties favored the conservative and not-noticeable image of casual wear, however, men in twenties and thirties favored those of the active, sexy, and distinctive image. (2) Significant differences were found among men in twenties, thirties and forties according to the importance of the store attributes such as convenience of transportation and parking place, clothing in vogue, and various merchandise. Men in thirties and forties put more importance on convenience of transportation and parking place. Men in forties put more importance on various merchandise than men in twenties and thirties. (3) Significant differences were found among men in twenties, thirties and forties according to general purchase behavior of casual wear. * Differences of the use of information according to age Majority of the men consulted the T.V., radio and people in their boundaries * Differences of the clothing purchase frequency according to age Men in twenties buy more clothing than other age groups. Men in twenties buy the clothing every one month and every three months and men in thirties and forties buy the clothing every three months and every six months. * Differences of the shopping day according to age Majority of the men buy the clothing on Saturday and Sunday. However men in twenties buy the clothing more on weekdays than other age groups. * Differences of the shopping place according There were not significant differences among three different age groups and majority of the men found out to utilize the department store. * Differences of the influence of the partners according to age Men in twenties found out to rely on their own decisions but men in thirties and forties found out to depend on their wives(loves). * Differences of the selection standards of casual wear according to age There were not significant differences according to age and adult males found out to select the casual wear by design, quality price in sequence.
A Study of Apparel Purchase Behaviors for High School Girls as determined by Attitudes toward Fashion
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 4, 1999, Pages 111~126
Apparel purchase behaviors were investigated for the high school girls grouped by attitude toward fashion. Differences in attitudes toward fashion were also investigated among the groups determined by demographic characteristics. Data were collected by a self-administered questionnaire survey to 600 high school girls living in Seoul, and 480 were used for the data analysis. Cluster analysis, Chi-sguare analysis, ANOVA, and Duncan\`s multiple range test were used for data analysis. Technical school students and those who spending higher amount of monthly allowances showed favorable attitudes toward fashion. Based on the attitudes toward fashion, respondents were classified into 3 groups : fashion-oriented(32.3%), fashion-conformed(47.3%), and unconcerned(20.4%). Among the 3 groups, the Fashion-oriented tended to make purchase decision for clothing based on there own, or peer\`s opinions, to use personal sources for information search, to spend more money for clothing, and to consider design and brand names as the most important criteria when purchasing apparel products than the less fashion-oriented did. Among clothing styles popular to students, the most appropriately perceived for student wear were semi-formal style, and the least appropriate ones were wearing bold colored and patterned underwear for the purpose of showing out. Most of the popular styles among high school girls were perceived less than appropriate student\`s attire.
A Study of Impulse Buying and Psychological Characteristics of College Women by Their Clothing Shopping Orientation
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 4, 1999, Pages 127~138
The college students selected by random sampling were classified into several groups by their impulse buying pattern and the psychological characteristics that cause them. Their life styles, fashion leadership, self-confidence and self-image in clothing were the subjects of comparative analysis. The results of this research can be summarized as follows. 1. The college women students could be classified into several groups by their impulse buying orientations. 2. The student life styles were different by their shopping orientations. The high shopping involved shopping type and the leisure pursuit shopping type attached great importance to material life and modern life style. The economic shopping type took the intellectual self-image seriously, and the low shopping involved type thought much of the traditional life style. 3. The high shopping involved type and the leisure pursuit shopping type were more impulse buying oriented. They showed the tendencies to the fashion innovativeness and fashion opinion leadership. But the economic shopping involved shopping type and low shopping involved shopping type showed quite different tendencies. The high shopping involved shopping type and low shopping involved shopping type were contrast in their self-confidence in shopping. The former showed the highest self-confidence and the latter showed the lowest self-confidence. 4. The high shopping involved shopping type were more extroversive, dominant, sensitive and pioneering. These psychological characteristics were supposed to contribute to their impulse buying. 5. The high shopping involved shopping type and the leisure pursuit shopping type perceived themselves as more sophisticated, modern, creative and sociable. They thought they had diverse life styles. These two groups were more impulse buying oriented, and their self-images were different from economic shopping type and low shopping involved shopping type.
The Relationships of Clothing Benefit and Clothing Attributes Evaluation to Ego Identity of College Students
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 4, 1999, Pages 139~154
The objectives of this study were to find relationships between ego identity and clothing benefits, and to examine the influence of ego identity, clothing attributes evaluation, and demographic variables on clothing benefits. The subjects were 405 college students(male : 164, female : 241) in Seoul. Six factors of clothing benefit derived by factor analysis : fashion, comfort, social recognition, self-expression, recognized brand, and economy. Males with higher goal-directedness of ego identity had less interest in the benefits of social recognition and recognized brand. The higher the uniqueness of ego identity females had, the higher the social recognition and the lower the comfort. Social recognition of males was influenced by self-acceptance(-), style, and fastener(R²=17.7%). and recognized brand influenced by parents\` education, goal-directedness(-), and allowance(R²=27.5%). Fashion of females was influenced by style, allowance(-), and goal-directedness(-)(R²=18.7%), comfort unfluenced by uniqueness(-), size, and allowance(-)(R²=14.6%), and self-expression influenced by style, allowance, fastener, and interpersonal relation(R²=28.0%). The present findings mean that allowance and ego identity such as goal-directedness, self-acceptance, interpersonal relation were meaningful variables that affect clothing benefits.
A Study on Sales Training of Clothing Companies
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 4, 1999, Pages 155~167
The present study investigated various sales training programs used by apparel companies and compared each other in order to provide an important information for developing effective training programs for professional salesperson. Sixty eight companies were used and grouped into four categories based on brand characteristics : domestic national brand(DNB), casual brand(CB), foreign brand(FB) and domestic designer brand(DDB). Data were collected from the managers in charge or training salesperson by both questionnaires and personal and telephone interviews. Data were collected during July in 1998, and analyzed by using ANOVA, Duncan\`s multiple range test, and Chi-square test. Since the sample size was small, Yates\` correction formula was used to maximize statistical validity in non-parametric procedure of Chi-square test. The main purpose of sales training indicated by the companies were to satisfy customers and to maximize the profit. Significant differences were found among the groups in the importance level of training contents such as knowledge, and customer relation, training methods, place, and duration/frequency of training at training center.