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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 7, Issue 6 - Dec 1999
Volume 7, Issue 5 - Oct 1999
Volume 7, Issue 4 - Aug 1999
Volume 7, Issue 3 - Jun 1999
Volume 7, Issue 2 - Apr 1999
Volume 7, Issue 1 - Mar 1999
Selecting the target year
The Analysis of Costume Role in Shakespeare`s History Plays
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 5, 1999, Pages 1~18
This study concerns the role of costume in Shakespeare\`s history plays from the viewpoint of the role theory. The term “role” has been used to represent the behavior expected of the occupant of a given position or status. A specific role can not be successfully performed without the aid of the costumes. Costumes are adopted in relation with a specific role. The term ‘role’ had been borrowed from the drama. The similarity between the role on the stage and the role of the social man had been recognized. The similarity between the role on the stage and the role of the social man had been recognized. The typical examples in which the costume help to make access to a specific role and can be effectively exploited for the performance of the role are manifested in the history plays of Shakespeare. Thus, our goal in this study is to analyze the role of costume which appears in Shakespeare\`s history plays from the viewpoint of the role theory. The role of social status and position reflects sex, age, occupation, class, economic position of the characters. In his works, the crown and the mace represented not only the throne but also a previllege and supreme position. The situation role of costume could be widely used for visualizing the psychological situation and external environments of the characters on the stage. The disguise role hided one\`s status, thereby makes possible acting other\`s position. The costume also could symbolize the social status, position, rank, occupation, and the situation, and functioned as a media fo delivering messages to others. The costume performed the role of the physical and psychic protection, and provided its wearer with consolation and peaceful mind. The costume reflected the custom of a society through its wearing configuration. The costume (or a uniform) adopted by a group notified the characteristics and the expectation of action of the group to others. The results obtained from this study can provide useful cues for understanding the role action in the social structure. This kind of understanding reveals the costume phenomena in real life, allows one to perform roles properly and efficiently, and opens our insight on the overall aspects of the costume culture.
A Study on Haniwa Costume in the Goboon Period Japan
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 5, 1999, Pages 19~32
This paper examines Haniwa costume in the Goboon period of Japan. The results are as follows. 1. Haniwa costume consisted of two pieces, the upper one and the lower one. Man wore Jacket and Pants, woman wore Jacket and Skirt ; besides, they wore several ornaments such as hats, necklaces, earings, bracelets. 2. When it was introduced, two-piece costume signified, symbolically, the authority of the chieftain and his near men wore it. 3. Before it was introduced, their proper costume had been the same kind of costume as Whoengpok-costume and Gwandu-costume, which was the primitive costume in the South countries. That costume was fit both for the hot and wet nature of Japan and for the working lower-class, so it was continuously worn by the lower-class after two-piece costume had been introduced. 4. In the Goboon period of Japan, a unified government with the class ruling was established for the first time. Thus, this social order was reflected in costume as a whole, and costume had such class-oriented features.
A Study on Emperor`s Costumes during the Reign of Gun-ryung in Ching Dynasty
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 5, 1999, Pages 33~45
Examine the dress which the Emperor actually wore in Gun-ryung 42nd year of Ching dynasty, comparison of 《Cheong-hoi-jeon-do》 with the Emperors year-round dress in Gun-ryung the 41st year was made and summarize the result as follows. It was used almost similar to the code of 《Cheong-hoi-jeon-do》. Though the materials and colors were more diverse than those of the previous year, it seems that actual use of material was plain under the influence of mourning. All the materials for summer hat were rattans. And velvet was the material for the patrol hat, but actually used before they change to summer material after fur use was over according to the season, which can be said as more reasonable use than the code. Materials of coat were more diverse than the precious year and also they put on ko-hemp cloth which was not found in the previous year. This can be understood that they expressed their guilt-consciousness to the dead as dress material by wearing ko-hemp cloth during the summer after periiod of mourning was over. And they put on the ko-hemp, the Emperors ordinary dress, much longer time than the previous year and this seems to be coherent to the meaning of wearing ko-hemp cloth. They followed the Emperor\`s Jo-bok1 one for the Kae-bok which were not systematized and Jae-dae used Jo-dae2 as the Emperor\`s Jae-bok in 42nd year. This was the same as the Jae-bok code of the previous year. Jo-ju did not follow the code of 《Cheong-hoi-jeon-do》, but made a wide variety. For the belt, the same as 41st year, it marked the gem decoration style on the Jae-bok belt as a square type and mourning dress by using the round type. The Emperors dress in 41nd year showed one side of the patrol clothes by the patrol of San-dong. On the contrary, it was also the chance to see one side of funeral garments in 42nd year. In Gun-ryung 42nd year, the Emperor put on the funeral garments for hundred days. Accordingly even in parts, we can see that the Emperor wore two kinds of dress for hundred days, that is, color dress and white dress and white dress. While on duty, in other words, everyday dress was only blue color and also the same color for the belt and shoes. But didn\`t put on Jo-ju. When they were in mourning, they wore white dress and belt as a funeral garments, which were called Hyo-bok, Hyo-bok.
A Study on Transition of Men`s Wear on Newspaper Media
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 5, 1999, Pages 46~55
This research, as a study of the documentary records, examined the process of men\`s wear development year by year, looking into the newspapers which show objectively social phenomena in those days. The outcomes therefrom were classified according to the important factors of dress and ornaments\` modeling i. e. style, color, pattern, material, ornamentation method. And then, the process of men\`s wear transition was analyzed based on the aforesaid examination with its classification. The above analyses revealed that a transition of a dress and ornaments closely correlates with a social and cultural change and also meant that the dress and ornaments symbolizes the social phenomena in those days. Thanks to the holding of Seoul Olympic Games in 1988, Korean society had tremendously grown with rapid changes in its politics, economy and culture. Also, men\`s wear type became innovative, breaking from the existing orthodox one due to the transition of men\`s viewpoints on value and their lives\` style.
Western Men`s Underclothes in The First Half of The 19C
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 5, 1999, Pages 56~67
At the turn of the 19C, the first development, spreading to the all classes that peculiar attitude of mind associated with the term prudery. The second changes of habit which affected both sexes and their undergarments were the novel idea of personal cleanliness. Drawers appear to have been of two lengths, short, when worn under breeches, and long when worn under pantaloons and trousers. The dandy wore corsets for beauty. In the early part of the 19C, the differences between day and evening style came to be accentuated. Not only the beau, but the soldier and hunting man were addicted to stays. The high standing collars of the early 1800s became fairly low in the middle of the century. in mid of the 19C, a woolen under-vest was worn next to the skin and studs were an usual fashion. At about 1850 the bottom of the shirt was cut in a curve. For evening dress the elliptic collar was introduced.
The Effects of the Body Image.Body Distortion and the Self-esteem on the Clothing Behaviors
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 5, 1999, Pages 68~79
The purposes of the study, based on the social comparison theory, were 1) to examine the body image and the body distortion of the late adolescent through the attitudinal and perceptual measurement of the body image and to examine the self-esteem, 2) to examine the difference of the clothing behaviors depending on the level of the body image, the body distortion and the self-esteem, 3) to examine the difference in the clothing behavior, the body image and the self-esteem according to sex. The sampling method was a convenient sampling and the subjects were 137 undergraduate students in Chungnam national University. The results of this study were as follows : The results of analysing the factors to the response of attitudinal body image emerged three factors (appearance interest, weight concern, and body satisfaction). The results of analysing the response of the clothing behavior showed four factors (fashion interest, psychological dependence of clothing, conformity to clothing, and exhibitionism of clothing). The positive group to the body image showed more interest in the fashion and had the tendency of depending on the clothing psychologically, and also showed that the group revealed much exhibitive attitude by using the clothing. The group of perceiving the face rather correctly tends to do the conformity behaviors, but the group distorting the shoulder width wider than tends to reveal more conformity behaviors. The group with the higher self-esteem had little interested in the fashion and also did the conformity behaviors slightly.
A Study on the Relation between Personality and Clothing Design Preferences of Men
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 5, 1999, Pages 80~92
The objectives of this study were to investigate the relation between personality(activity, emotional stability, and dominance) and clothing design preferences, and to examine the differences of clothing design preferences according to demographic variables of men. Subjects for the study were 255 male white-collar workers ranging in ages from twenties to fifties, in Seoul and Kwangju City, Korea. The men with higher activity of personality preferred the double jacket with 4 buttons, the combination of light color jacket and dark trousers, glen check pattern jacket, herringbone pattern jacket, light beige color dress shirts. The higher the emotional stability, the higher the preferences on diverse patterns such as fine stripe, plaid, hound\`s-tooth check, and small check pattern. The men with higher dominance preferred dark blue color suit, glen check pattern suit, and necktie of red circle, and disliked the necktie of gray circle. The men in their 20\`s and 30\`s liked the single jacket with 3 buttons, the suit of fine stripe and the necktie of gray circle more among three income groups. The higher the men\`s age and income were, the more they liked the conservative style such as a single jacket with 2 buttons. The men who reside in Seoul liked the suit of gray circle, the jacket and trousers of same color, the patternless jacket, and the patternless suit more than the men in Kwangju. Therefore, the men in methropolitan area preferred conservative clothing image. Fine stripe pattern and patternless materials were preferred when men wore jacket and trousers of same color, while glen check pattern was preferred as the pattern of jacket when jacket and trousers of different color. Male white-collar worker liked single jacket more than double jacket, and preferred the dark blue color suit and necktie, patternless suit, fine stripe suit, and the pale blue dress shirts generally. The present findings provide that the personality of male has influence on the clothing design preferences, and it is possible to infer men\`s personality by their attire.
A Study on the Character Fashion in the Viewpoint of the Cultural dependency
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 5, 1999, Pages 93~103
The objective of the present study was trying to explain the phenomenon of the character fashion using famous character of America and Japan as a cultural dependency of mass culture in Korea. Today, the cultural situation of the Korean society was influenced much from foreign countries, especially America and Japan in every culture. It means the penetration of foreign cultures, the cultural domination of them and it could be explained by the cultural imperialism approach and the cultural imperialism approach presented the theoretical framework of cultural dependency of mass culture. In this viewpoint, I emphasized the influence of the motives used character fashion as an important phenomenon to analyize the cultural situation of Korea.
The Aesthetic Consciousness of Cyberpunk in Fashion -Focused on Simulacres Concept-
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 5, 1999, Pages 104~121
The purpose of this paper is to make sure of identity as a paradigm of new fsahion to introduce the concept of Sumulacres by J. Baudrillard, For converting to new aesthetic value. To do this, we started observing the general concept of Simulacres, and examined Cyberpunk within thinking of Simulacres and Cyberpunk fashion at virtual space, and then divided aesthetic consciousness appeared at Cyberpunk fashion centering on the concept of Simulacres into inwards sense and outwards sense. Cyberpunk is understood to be one of tendency in the cyber cultures controlled by computer and electronic technology. It is not yet defined clearly and therefore ambiguous and still being elaborated. However, the form started changing our sense sinking into overall cultures in the World, including even movie, literature, music and fashion, and giving complex, deep cultural and artistic possibilities. Also, as a subculture, Cyberpunk is building its own cultural territory in cyber space and is experiencing more real Simulacres than that of it in the ordinary life.
Some Factors of Influence on Paco Rabanne`s Fashion Design
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 5, 1999, Pages 122~139
Paco Rabanne, who has created experimental and prophetic avant-garde fashion by cutting edge techniques and revolutionary new materials, is known as one of the most influential fashion designer of modern times. The purpose of this study is to analyze the various factors, including some major artistic movements, which influenced on the formative characteristics of Paco Rabanne\`s fashion design. First, Paco Rabanne\`s fantastic new materials is also influenced by his study in architecture and his own fantasies -which other people can hardly imagine- during his early childhood. Second, light one of the most important element in Paco Ranbanne\`s fashion design, shows some influence of medieval symbols of love and salvation. Third, the artistic trends which influenced on Paco Rabanne\`s fashion include surrealism, opart, and kinetic art. His use of new materials and avant -garde style represents the influence of surrealism. his experimental use of waving plastics and glittering metal during his early period is especially related with opart and kinetic art in the early 1960s which emphasize the artistic effect of light and movement. Fourth, the geometrical figures like triangles, rectangles, and circles represent the influence of Egyptian architecture like pyramids and the geometrical characteristics of Eguptian art. Fifth, Paco Rabanne\`s distinctive use of metal chains in his fashion shows the influence of the chain mail hauberk, the medieval knightly armour. By using the medieval material Paco Rabanne properly expressed the modern person\`s pain and suffering. Sixth, the ethnic elements of Egypt, Africa, Spain, and Japan reflect the experience in his former lives he insists he lived. The ethnic elements of his dresses emphasize the natural vitality and inheritance from the past.
A Study on the Patterns Used in the Hanbok in the Latter 1990s
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 5, 1999, Pages 140~151
This research was designed to study the different kinds of ancient patterns applied to the Korean traditional suit and the symbolism associated with these patterns being used the prevalent Han-bok collections in markets. The shapes and changes in the use of the patterns can be summarized as follows. The published collections in the last 5 years were specifically concentrated between 1996 and 1997, proving that the development in Han-bok designs was most active during that time. But the trend decreased due to the effects of a depressed domestic economy. The plant pattern was the most utilized pattern for practical purposes. It looks beautiful and it is also easily manufactured with open space. Symmetrical and linear arrangements make customers feel stable at sight and these patterns tend to attract public gaze resulting in increased sales. There is a problem whether to continue using the existing patterns of the Han-bok without any correction or whether to copy the pattern of the kimono or the western suit. Copying other patterns definitely hurts the elegance of the Han-bok. It is time for us to not only keep our own traditions but also to study and develop new patterns that are distinct from the Chinese and Japanese patterns. The following are suggested as the basic materials.
Classification of High School Girls` Body Shapes(II) -Lateral and Whole Body Shapes-
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 5, 1999, Pages 152~164
As the latter part of the research on the high school girls\` body shapes, this study aimed to classify high school girls\` lateral body shapes and by combining the result with that of the authors\` precedent study on the classification of their frontal body shapes, to classify the whole body shapes into presentative clusters. Subjects consisted of 205 high school girls in Kwangju aged 16 through 18 years. 55 anthropometric and 29 photographic measurements were taken from each subject. For more effective data analysis, these measurements were tansformed into some calculated indexes. These indexes were reduced to 8 factors and these factors classified the lateral body shapes into 3 clusters. The compound types of the whole body shapes resulting from frontal and lateral body shape analysis resulted in 9 representative cody types.
A Study of Sports Socks Varying Knitted Fabrics on Hygienic and stability Properties
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 5, 1999, Pages 165~176
The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effect of various knitted fabrics of sports socks on their properties of hygiene and stability. Seventeen men\`s sports socks to represent five groups with different fiber content, knit structure, yarn fineness, and finishing were used. Properties of hygiene and stability of socks were determined. The results were as follows ; 1. Evaluation of Water, vapor and heat transport properties in socks with varing fiber content showed that cotton 100% socks had the highest drop absorbency, wickability, water absorbency and water retention. Polypropylene 100% socks had an excellent wickability and moisture permeability. Acrylic blend socks had the highest thermal resistance. 2. The greatest knit stretch and knit growth of socks having lower power were found to be with cotton 100% socks had the lowest stretch. Acrylic blend socks had a excellent stretch but low fabric growth, which could give a good fir sensation during wear. 3. The commerical antimicrobial finished socks showed excellent durability after repeated cycles of laundering. 4. Length and width shrinkages were found in all laundered samples during initial cycles due to rearrangement by mechanical relaxation. Shrinkages showed no further changes and reached equilibriums after 5 cycles. Cotton 100% or cotton blend socks showed lower dimensional stability than other socks during fabric care.