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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 7, Issue 6 - Dec 1999
Volume 7, Issue 5 - Oct 1999
Volume 7, Issue 4 - Aug 1999
Volume 7, Issue 3 - Jun 1999
Volume 7, Issue 2 - Apr 1999
Volume 7, Issue 1 - Mar 1999
Selecting the target year
A Study on the Function of Wool Matting
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 6, 1999, Pages 15~27
Matting made of wools has a history which gose back even before B.C.7000, the time which is believed to be the starting point of the fabrication, production and usage of wools by the nomads in the Western and Central Asia who had made the living by breeding sheeps. The purpose of this thesis is to investigate the function of wool matting in Asia. The research period limited to 9C A.D. When classified by the method of production of wool matting, the pile method and felt method have been widely used by the nomads in Western Asia and the cattle breeding nomads in Central Asia consecutively. From ancient times, wool matting has been considered to be one of the necessities by the nomads for living in the wilderness, and even at present, continued to be used by the people both for the purpose of everyday use and decoration. Other than fore-mentioned purposes, wool matting have function that is expressed the incantation, authorization and hierarchy, emotion and desire, and cultural exchange between nations. In addition, wool matting had also been used as a mark to show ownership and for military purposes. Even a simple wool matting had a different symbolism and function by different region and people throughout Asia. However, by finding and studying further abut what wool matting had symbolized and how it had been used, the tradition and history of wool matting could continue to attract the interests which will make the tradition to continue. And also, in order for the tradition to continue, the utmost efforts to innovate and produce better quality and design wool matting to fulfil the needs of modern times are truly required.
Factors Influencing on the Adolescence`s Clothing Conformity -Focused on Female Middle and High School Students in Seoul-
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 6, 1999, Pages 28~40
The purpose of this study was to understand the Korean teenagers\` clothing behavior through pointing out the factors that clothing behavior of teenagers that was initiated from the important reference group, TV stars. The subject of this study were 570 purposively selected students at female middle and high school students in Seoul. The results were as follows : 1. The clothing conformity to TV stars relating to demographic variables was influenced significantly by location and personal expense variable in the high school group. 2. The exhibition showed a more important role to the clothing conformity in middle school group than in high school group. 3. The clothing conformity to TV stars relating to the clothing related variables was significantly affected by self-confidence to clothing than clothing normative recognition, clothing risk recognition and degree of clothing importance regardless of groups. 4. The clothing conformity to TV stars relating to TV media variables was affected by TV media star identification variable in both groups. And in case of middle school group, interests in TV stars also had influence on the clothing conformity to TV stars. And in case of high school group, interests in TV had effect on the imitation to TV stars\` clothing. As middle school students tend to have self-identification about a particular person, TV media stars become the reference group for the adolescence to follow their clothing.
The Qualitative Study on Conflict between Apparel Manufacturers and Contractors in Distribution Channel of Fashion Industry
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 6, 1999, Pages 41~53
Fashion marketing channels experience conflicts inevitably because of constant interaction among fabric producers, apparel manufacturers, contractors, and retailers. However, it is rarely that attempts has been made to identify causes of conflicts in distribution channel of fashion industry. The purpose of this study was to explore causes of conflicts from the standpoint of a contractor. For this study, data were collected from the owner or the manager represented with a contractor in fashion maketing channels. By means of in-depth interviews with multiple informants, their statement was analyzed qualitatively. From analysis of the resulting data, the causes of conflict were associated with two broad sets, attitudinal and structural differences between apparel manufacturers and contractors. First, attitudinal sources of conflict were identified as perception of subordinated relationships between channel members, delayed announcement on order changes, difficulties in communication by using different terms, different expectations between channel members in controlling product quality, and lack of credit in inspecting products. Second, structural sources of conflict involved unilateral decision on wages for contracting, lengthy payment period derived from a bill of credit, deficient autonomy in selecting auxiliary suppliers, unreasonable issues on lead time, and unfair transaction in selecting a contractor or inspecting finished products. There are limitations on generalization due to the results based on interviews, but this study will be a useful exploratory step before designing a large scale survey.
A Study on the Differences of Importance of Store Attributes, Use of Information Sources, and Self-Image according to Apparel Shopping Orientation of the Female College Students
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 6, 1999, Pages 54~67
The purpose of this study were (1) to segment the female college students according to apparel shopping orientation and (2) to create a profile for each group with regard to impotance of store attributes, use of information sources, and self-image. The questionnaire were administered to the female college students living in Seoul and data were analyzed by frequency, percentage, factor analysis, cluster analysis, one-way ANOVA(analysis of variance), and MANOVA(multivariate analysis of variance). By cluster analysis of apparel shopping orientation factors, four groups are identified : (1) highly involved apparel shopper (44.34%), (2) brand-loyal shopper (24.43%), (3) planned / practical shopper, and (4) apathetic shopper (18.10%) Four groups were then compared through MANOVA on importance of store attributes, use of information, and self-image. Significant differences were found among four groups on three variables. In general. highly involved shopper tend not to be price conscious, enjoy shopping and use the information sources most actively and apathetic shoppers tend to be indifferent to apparel shopping and do not actively use the information sources.
A Study on Adult Women`s Swimming Suit Buying Behavior -Focused on Product Evaluation Criteria-
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 6, 1999, Pages 68~84
The purpose of this study was analyze how korean adult women\`s swimming suit buying behavior varied according to consumer characteristics. Especially, it was intended to provide basic materials for swimming suit product development and quality improvement appropriate to consumer characteristics with a focus on product evaluation criteria. Questionnaire research was conducted for 850 adult women resident in Seoul, to whom questionnaire were distributed and who were asked to complete their questionnaires. 1. As for buying motive, of swimming suit buying behavior, it was shown that the highest proportion of adult women bought their new swimming suit because their old swimming suit was wornout and most adult women tended to buy their new swimming suit or their own will rather than at others\` suggestion. 2. As for the source of information at a time. of swimming suit purchase, adult women collected information from the product on display most and bought their swimming suit in a planned way in relation to the degree of purchase planning. 3. As for product evaluation criteria, adult women showed the high scores in order of the type and quality of material, activity and functionalism, dimensions and fitness. 4. In many cases actual swimming suit purchasers were the adult women who bought their swimming suit, and they used the department store or the large shopping center as the place of purchasing the swimming suit. Its reason was that the department store or the large shopping center had a diverse assortment of products. As for the degree of their travelling companion\`s influence, it was found that most adult women were influenced by their travelling companions when purchasing their swimming suits. 5. As for the level of satisfaction with swimming suit purchase, it was shown that adult women were generally satisfied with their swimming suit purchase. It was found that their level of satisfaction was higher in order of activity and functionalism, the type and quality of swimming suit materials, and ease in washing management while they showed the low level of satisfaction with price, the fastness of color to washing, light and detergents and durability.
Deconstructive Expression Style in Contemporary Hairstyle
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 6, 1999, Pages 85~97
Contemporary hairstyle is too various and individual to be explained by an objective theory and an asthetic appraisal. Consequently, this study is to understand the various expression of contemporary hairstyle on the basis of J. Derrida\`s deconstruction theory. The results of this study are following as : First, it breaks up binary metaphysic and pursues disharmonous beauty because of intertextuality. Second, it breaks up logocentrism metaphysic and pursues neglected beauty because of decentring. Finally, it breaks up present metaphysic and puruses accidental beauty because of undecidability.
A Study on the Sexual Image of Woman`s Sports Wear in the Latter Half of the 20th Century
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 6, 1999, Pages 98~115
As sports infiltrates each field of modern society and becomes familiar, sports wear was changed functionally and was introduced and enveloped into everyday dress. Modern sports wear has been the settled in everyday life deeply and become the clothes of life which are worn regardless of place, time and age. The aim of this paper was to clarify what kind of fashion of sports style would be given to the modern people. In this study, sports wear which has become everyday dress classified from a gender point of view. It was divided into masculine image, feminine image, and neutral image. Sports wear of masculine image generated a silhouette which emphasized the shoulder with the aspiration for youth and health. Wide shoulder was considered as the symbol of masculine beauty and the expression of healthy beauty. It was reflected well in body conscious look. And owing to the development of up-to-data materials, innovation of design, and the study of human body technology, the functional character was settled in the sports wear which showed masculine image. Sports wear of feminine image was represented fashion of body exposure, body feet with body conscious look, and romantic mode. This image was expressed fashion as comforts, pleasant, active design, materials, color, and romantic feminine beauty. Sports wear of neutral image was expressed into unisex clothes. This cloths have no difference in gender, age, and class. It was used as casual sports wear. In the 1960s, young generation participated in such street sports as street basketball and skate. They usually sore the sports wears of neutral image such as cycling, skating, and ski. In the materials of sports, the development of up-to-data material like lycra made the sayings lifelike, “up-to-data material is the second skin” It show that glamorous feminine image and strong masculine image coexisted. The contemporary concept of sportswear is no longer limited to those clothes for sports found in such places like tennis court or swimming pool. Now, the sports wear become more like casual activity wear all classes of people can enjoy in their life regardless of where they are, when they wear, and even how old they are.
A Study to Improve the Rinkage between Apparel Industry and a University Education on Clothing Construction -Focus on Process of Pattern Making-
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 6, 1999, Pages 116~128
The purpose of this study is to improve the rinkage between apparel industy and a university education on clothing construction. The random survey was carried out on 207 patternists, working at 64 apparel companies. In this study such factors as the individual characteristics, the method of pattern making, work, and an educational institution of pattern making were investigated. The results of this study are as follow : 1. Male workers are mainly thirties and forties who graduated high school with 5 years experience or more. Female workers are mostly twenties who graduated junior college with 5 years experience or less. 2. In a way of working, male patternists tend to perform pattern making by using drafting method while female patternists generally choose apparel CAD system for grading and marking.
Chronological Trends of Fashion and Make-up in 1990s for the Next Millennium
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 6, 1999, Pages 129~139
This paper analyzes the trend of fashion and make-up in 1990s and their relevancy to each other. Based on the chronological analysis, we propose a new category for the fashion and make-up trend in 1990s, which is 1) traditional ecology period(1990∼1994), 2) versatile trial or decadent period(1995∼1997), and 3) soft landing period based on the minimal neo-ecology and romanticism(1998∼2000). Between 1990 and 1994, there was no differentiation in seasons. It appeared that spring/summer and fall/winter trend have had no big differences. At the beginning in 1990s, it was basically based on ecology concept that emphasizes the natural image. However after 1995, seasonal differences in trend are appeared and there were various make-up designs. The trends of spring/summer in 1996 could be named as color revolution period that emphasized the unique and individual expression of each person. In 1997, black, pastel, and brown colors were the result of reinterpreting the classic and sexy images of 1960s to natural and modernistic image of 1997. Purple color started to be introduced to us. In 1998, pastel tone, pink, and purple color expresses the glamorous look based on the romantic feminism. S/S of 1999 is mainly represented by minimalism and avant garde. For fall/winter trends, brown color lines make-up comes to mix with romantic image and developed into wine, orange, neon colors in 1995 and 1996. These colors were the symbol of property and sentiment. Gold make-up emphasizing the eye area was the tendency of that period. In 1997, the fear of coming end of century was expressed as decadent image. At that time, ethnic and romantic image appeared with vivid color lines, gold, red and violet. In 1998, romanticism was popular again with modernism and ethnic mood. It expressed the romantic elegant image. The trend has returned to the ecology mood again in 1999. This ecology is somewhat different from the previous ecology. It adds a sofistaiced feeling and sportic fashion. To express natural and sportic image, they choose pink blush. In coming 2000 as a new millennium, the yellow color will be main the stream to express vision, dream, and happiness in both fashion and make-up as an accent color. The minimal design and minimal tools will be used for the design and make-up, respectively. In addition, the fusion concept will dominate the fashion and make-up industry in the globalized and boundariless age. Through this paper, we hope that make-up can be accepted as a part of total fashion in its relationship with other elements such as shoes, clothes and accessory and that it can be considered as a independent art that has direct influence on people and industry.
A Study on the Basic Slacks Pattern for Middle Aged Women Based on Their Lower Body Shape Analysis
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 6, 1999, Pages 140~158
The purposes of this study are to examine the characters of the lower body shape in the middle aged women and to make slacks pattern on the base of four difference body shapes. The lower body shapes were classified into 4 types on the basis of their lateral view silhouettes. The slacks patterns were based on the lower body shape characters and resulted in followings. In “Type 1” of the right body shape with the standard protrusion of abdomen and hips, little difference from conventional patterns was seen in experiment pattern, in which the front waist girth was W/4+0.5㎝+0.5㎝+fold(2.5㎝) and the back waist girth W/4+0.5㎝-0.5㎝+dart(3.5㎝). The front hip girth was defined as H/4+2.0㎝+0.5㎝ and the back hip girth as H/4+2.0㎝-0.5㎝ due to its increased ease amount produced by abdominal fat deposition. In the experimental pattern of “Type 2” with prominent hips, the front and back differences of the waist girth and the hip girth and the hip girth were defined as 1.0㎝ and 2.0㎝ separately. Accordingly, the front waist girth was W/4+0.5㎝+1.0㎝+fold(2.0㎝), the back waist girth W/4+0.5㎝-0.1㎝+dart(6.5㎝), the front hip girth H/4+2.0㎝+1.0㎝ and the back hip girth H/4+2.0㎝-1.0㎝. In “Type 3” with the prominent abdomen and the flat hips, the front waist girth was set up as W/4+0.5㎝+0.5㎝+fold(4.5㎝) for the increased front fold amount and the back waist girth was W/4+0.5㎝+0.5㎝+dart(3.0㎝). The front hip girth was made as H/4+2.5㎝+0.5㎝ and the back hip girth H/4+2.5㎝-0.5㎝. In “Type 4” with prominent abdomen and hips, considered were ① the increased front fold amount due to the abdominal protrusion, ② the increased back dart amount and the decreased back dart length owing to the hips prominent and ③ the front and back differences of waist and hip girth for the lateral view silhouette. Therefore the front waist girth was defined as W/4+0.5㎝+2.0㎝+fold(5.0㎝), the back waist girth as W/4+0.5㎝-2.0㎝+dart(4.0㎝), the front hip girth as H/4+2.0㎝+1.0㎝ and the back hip girth as H/4+2.0㎝-1.0㎝. The sensory evaluation of appearance and comfort was appeared more suitable on the experiment pattern than on the conventional pattern.
A Study on Sizes Specifications of Infants` Apparels
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 6, 1999, Pages 159~169
The purpose of this study is to survey and analyze the general conditions of infants\` apparel brands in Korea, review the sizes and specifications of each brand, analyze the differences and correlations among brands, and thereby, present the reasonable sizes and specifications for infants\` apparels in consideration of domestic and foreign specifications and infants\` health conditions. For this purpose, 13 brands manufacturing the apparels for the infants aged from 0 to 4 were sampled, and their design directors and outside pattern suppliers were surveyed through direct interviews. The collected data were processed for frequencies, mean, median and mode.
A Study on the Paradigmatic Characteristics of the Space Age Fashion and Techno-Cyber Fashion in 20th Century
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 7, issue 6, 1999, Pages 170~181
The purpose of this study is to suggest the possibility of futurism as original design pursuing newness in approaching 21C by studying how futurism having a great effect on fashion as innovatory ideology in early 20C did became paradigm in 20C fashion and the common peculiarity of the dress and its ornaments in this time before 21C. The Space Age Fashion and Techno-Cyber Fashion are representative futurism fashion of 20C. The common inner inclination in both Space Age Fashion and Techno-Cyber fashion are ; First, a future-oriented character. Second, a surrealism character, Third, an anti-cultural character. The greatest peculiarity in the common outer shape in both Space Age Fashion and Techno-Cyber Fashion is material. First, a innovatory choice. Second, an active motion. Third, a diverse effects. Future dress and its ornaments of 21C may be changed greatly by the development of technique, and this fact supports the forecast that the change of paradigm resulted from the development of science may have an effect on future dress and its ornaments as well as modern one. The paradigm change of futurism fashion would be continued, and its influence would work as main source shaping the form of design in 21C.