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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 8, Issue 6 - Dec 2000
Volume 8, Issue 5 - Oct 2000
Volume 8, Issue 4 - Aug 2000
Volume 8, Issue 3 - Jun 2000
Volume 8, Issue 2 - Apr 2000
Volume 8, Issue 1 - Feb 2000
Selecting the target year
A Study on the Forecasting Export-Import Demands for Textile Products
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 8, issue 2, 2000, Pages 149~165
This study concerns the export-import demands for Korean textile, textile products and clothing products. The result from the practice of study is as follows ; it predicts the constant increase as a result of prediction in the nation's total amount of export-import including the export-import amount of textile, textile-product, and clothing product. It is estimated that nation's textile trade balance will be about U $ 13 billion of trade surplus in every year from 2000 to 2003. Other hand, the trade balance of textile product is predicted about U $ 1.39 billion surplus, so is clothing product about U $ 3.29 billion surplus. Textile ratio is presumed to gradually decrease in aspect of export. Also, the portion of textile export in our national total export is predicted to reduce to 11.61% in the 2003. On the other hand, Textile import ratio will be constantly increased and the portion of textile import in our national total import is predicted to reach to 3.92% in 2003. Textile-product ratio is also estimated to increase in the area of export & 33.12% in 2003. Clothing product ratio is also estimated to increase annually. What with increasing ratio of clothing-product export in textile-product export reaching to total 0.87% within for 4 years(62.96% in 2003, 63.83% in 2003) and what with increasing ratio of clothing-product import in textile-product import reaching to total 6.42%(83.89% in 2000, 90.31% in 2003), it can be said that increase of its import will be much higher than that of export.
A Study on Clothing Behavior of Early Adolescents in the School Bullying
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 8, issue 2, 2000, Pages 166~182
In this study, we inquire what is the rules which is implicitly used by the adolescent group about bullying phenomenon. We inquire how to interpret the phenomenon from the adolescents'viewpoint and their opinions of how appearance and clothing determine the extent of bullying. After we discuss this problem, we propose an indirect solution to the cause of bullying. We selected a middle school boy by reason that boys have been more experienced than others according to a previous study and are at a keen adolescent stage of development. Moreover, 'ichime'phenomenon is seriously reported at a middle school student stage in the case of Japan. The purpose of the study was to analyze the following : 1. Research on an actual case of bullying in a middle school student. 2. the adolescents'viewpoint on characteristics of school bullying. 3. The cause of violence and injury from school bullying. 4. How appearance and clothing affect bullying. 5. The preference and uses of clothing worn by adolescents. The process of this study brought a substantially between quantitative and qualitative research. Theses questionnaires were administered to 320 middle school students in Seoul from the 14/sup th/ to the 25/sup th/ of June. The data totaled up to 280 subjects, which consist 121 male students and 159 female students except for invalid data.
A Study on Cosmetics Purchasing Behavior of Male College Students by Clothing Involvement
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 8, issue 2, 2000, Pages 183~196
The purpose of this study was to identify cosemetics purchasing behavior of male college students by clothing involvement. A questionnaire was administered to 246 male collage students living in Taegu and Seoul during September of 1999. Data were analyzed by using frequency, cross tabulation, t-test, χ²-test and factor analysis. The results of this study were as follows : First, the consumers are classified into two categories by clothing involvement ; 65.5% of the highly involved consumers and 34.5% of the lowly involved consumers. Second, the factors of selecting cosmetics were fragrance, quality and price. Third, the major information sources of cosmetics are TV, magazines, outdoor advertisements, newspapers, subway, radio and internet in order of importance. Fourth, high clothing involved group was more fashion oriented and showed more impulsive purchasing attribute.
The Representativity Expressed by Men′s Fashion in the End of a Century
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 8, issue 2, 2000, Pages 197~204
With the current of the end of a century and social, economic, political, and cultural turbulence, people take advantage of the various ways to express their stagnation. This study introduces the term representativity and it will explain the men's fashion of the end of a century. On a theoretical basis, the concept of the representativity, image, symbol and imitation which are used as a tool for expression will be examined, and together with this, inner representation and outer representation will be categorized. The inner representation of the men's fashion in the end of a century can be taken for the purpose of connecting the image of masculinity. The image of masculinity is widely spread owing to the mass communication of a consumption-oriented society, so its hard to define that image as one thing specific. Hence, in order to discuss the male gender and mens fashion, New Man phenomenon should be noticed of. 1980's New Man influence has lasted till now. New Man images were largely categorized into two images like New Lad and Iron John after the mid 1990's. Therefore, the image of masculinity is largely classified New lad, who desires success and pursues the hedonistic life style and Iron John, who enjoys thrill and follows economical life style. The image of masculinity has influence on the outer representation how it is imitated and symbolized via many designer's works and street fashion. Two masculinity images are dominant over the men's fashion of the end of a century. One is inhumane and rational corporate power look that stems from symbolization and imitation of New Lad. The other is outdoor casual that originated from the symbolization and imitation of Iron John.
A Study on the Western Men′s Nightclothes
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 8, issue 2, 2000, Pages 205~216
The purpose of study examined of historical changes of western men's nightclothes from middle ages to the modern ages and analyzed functions and features of men's nightclothes. This study presented meaning and importance of men's nightclothes. The method of study researched the many literatures and internet sources. Until medieval age, men slept naked or in a day-shirt. In the 16th century, a nightshirt was worn in bed. A night-cap was usual, in rather more elaborate form, also worn by day in the house, and even outdoors. In the 17th century, nightshirt was elabrated with ruffles and lace. The nightshirts of 18th century, resembled the day-shirt except that it was slightly longer and fuller in cut. The turn of 19th century, men weared nightshirt with a high folding collar, one button and night-cap of jellybag shape. In the early 19th century, nightshirt had a plain turned-down collar, buttoned at the neck. A night-cap with colored tassel was usual. The middle of 19th century, a nightgown was reaching to the ankle. Pyjamas, in the 1890s, were steadily replacing the nightshirt, before long pyjamas had become generally accepted in place of the nightshirt. A pyjamas which preseverved his male dignity by giving him trousers. Man's ingenuity also modified his nigntclothes so that these took on sexual characteristic. In 20th century, the fabrics had become lighter in weight, and the choice of materials wider. By 1930s, nightclothes had become the man's most colorful garment.
A Study on the Beauty of Line in the Cho-sun Costume
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 8, issue 2, 2000, Pages 217~236
The study is on the beauty of the line in the Cho-sun Costume. In the aspect of the Costume Aesthetics and Study of Clothing Design, I try to find the beauty of the line in the external form and the immanent beauty of the external line in the Cho-sun Costume. The results of the study is that : 1) The beauty of the line external form have ① the functional beauty of the line ② the beauty of drape line ③ combination of the line of internal and external structure. ④ the beauty of wearing with the Chi-ma. ⑤ the beauty of sharp line in the ornaments 2) The immanent beauty of the line in the Cho-sun Costume : There are a natural beauty found by the reason of nature, temperate beauty, simple beauty in the Cho-sun Costume.
A Study on the Jik-Ryoung of Chosun Era -Focusing a True Record of the Chosun Dynasty -
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 8, issue 2, 2000, Pages 237~260
According to the study of Jik-Ryoung(直領) consulting chronicles of the Chosun Era, Jik-Ryoung had been worn for various uses as official outfit, ordinary attire or clothes for the celebration of their coming of age, wedding ceremonies, funeral rites, and religious ceremonies, etc. from the beginning to the end of the Chosun Era. The conclusions are shown briefly as follows. 1. There are several terms of Po(袍) related to Jik-Ryoung in the chronicles under the name of Jik-Ryoung Ui(直領衣), Ui-Sal Jik-Ryoung(衣撒直領), and Jik-shin(直身). Jik-Ryoung Ui is the other name of Jik-Ryoung that they called it when it was used for funeral rites and religious ceremonies. The chinese Ye-Sal(曳撒) was called the Ui-Sal Jik-Ryoung in Korea, but this is different with Jik-Ryoung regarding its divided up and bottom style. Jik-Shin is almost same as Jik-Ryoung. 2. During the latter period of the Chosun Era, we can find diferent frequency in use of the Jik-Ryoung. Jik-Ryoung was shown constantly in the cases of that ding, Chinese Prince and lower-level constantly in the cases of that king, Crown Prince and lower-level officials wore it for funeral rites and lower-level officials, artisans, merchants, humbles and slaves wore it for official outfit. Uses of the Jik-Ryoung increased for military officers'outfits, in contrast to decreasing of uses for ordinary attires of king, Crown Prince, and the commons, and official outfits of civil officials. 3. These different aspects mean the change of estate and role. For the basic four ceremonial occasions the ceremonies of coming of age, marriage, funeral, and ancestor memorial-, it appeared constantly. Therefore the social role had been maintained also by then. As an official garb, the role for official uniform of petty official maintained by the end of the Dynasty. But from the latter 1600's to the former 1700's, the roles for official garbs of civil officials and military officers decreased and increased respectively. Before the Hideyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592, ordinary social clothes had orders by people's social status who wore them ; those were Dan Ryoung(團領), Hong Jik Ryoung(紅直領), Jik Ryoung(直領), Cho'l Rick(철릭) in the order named. After the war, various Po(袍), Shim Ui(深衣), Jung Chi Mak(中致莫), Chang Ui( 衣), Jang Ui(長衣), Ju Ui(周衣) and so on had been worn until the King Young Jo(英祖)·Jung Jo(正祖) period. In result, the social role of Jik-Ryoung was reduced as the uses decreased more and more. For a mourning dress, it had a same aspect as the case of ordinary social wear. 4. Considering the color, they used blue for the clothes for doing-up-the-hair ceremony, white for mourning clothes, and white, black for ancestor memorial ceremony clothes. On the official outfits of officials, dark blue and black were used mostly. And lower-level officials'clothes had white, red, and green on them. They used red and green for the plain dresses. 5. Examining the materials, clothes for the celebration of one's coming of age were made of high quality silks, Kwang Hwa Dan(廣禾緞). Also, they made clothes for funeral rites of rough and thick linen, and made clothes for religious ceremonies of linen and hemp. The official outfits were made of practical materials like cotton, hemp and ramie. Cotton, pongee and satin were used to make ordinary attire.
Western Men′s Underclothes in The Second Half of The 19C
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 8, issue 2, 2000, Pages 261~271
In order to investigate the function and feature of western men's underclothes in the second half of the 19C, in this study, the historical changes of western men's underclothes are compared the first half of the 19C with the second half of the 19C. In the second half of the 19C, the useful function to ease for body was important. In the 1860's, for day-shirt, the tucked panels was disappeared and the front was pain. But the evening dress-shirt continued to show an expansive front tucked. Coloured shirts was used for country and sporting occasions. Ready-made underwear was used. In the 1870's, the plain breast was introduced and the Gladstone collar was used. Paper collars and dickeys were unfashionable. The drawers was composed a gusset at the back of the waistband. The dress of one generation was became the livery of the next. In the 1880's, a new feature was one stud and the use of pique for the breast. Coloured shirt was composed of stripes across the breast. In the 1890's, height of the collar steadily increased. The coat-shirt and regatta shirt became popular. The nice choice of shirt, collar and tie was a matter of supreme importance .The social status of the white shirt was further threatened by fancy coloured shirts. The mode of relaxation affected sports shirts. By the close of this period, both sexes accepted the hygienic rule of wool next the skin.
A Study on Fitness and Awareness of Sizing System of Infants′Wear
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 8, issue 2, 2000, Pages 272~281
The purpose of this study is to provide for the basic data useful to the effective production. For this purpose, 180 Korean mothers who bring up from newborns to four-year-old babies were sampled to survey the problems on size occurred by wearing and purchasing the Infants'Wear and positively identify the factors affecting the fitness. Data is processed by a computer(SAS) and analyzed by using frequency, perentage, mean, χ²-test, Duncan-test. The main results of this study are as follows ; 1. Consumers'awareness of sizing system of Infant's wear tent to present relatively high and tend to purchase their infants'wear larger than actual sizes or that consumers'preferences depend little on size adaptation. 2. As a result of analyzing the part not fit, neck circumference, waist circumference, total length, neck back-waist length is short, sleeve length, pants length, shoulder length is big. In all, it has been found through this study that fitness and awareness of sizing system of Infant's Wear in purchasing infants'wear was influenced by many external factors. Therefore, in order to maximize the size adaptability for infants, Infants'Wear must be present the reasonable sizes and specifications for infants'wear in consideration of domestic and foreign specifications and infants'health condition.
A Study on The Obese Breast Shape of 20′s Women
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 8, issue 2, 2000, Pages 282~292
The purpose of this study is to provide for some basic data useful to the development of the brassieres comfortable and more suitable for obese women. The results of this study can be summarized as follows ; 1. Obese women were categorized using Rohrer index into three groups, and thereupon, their breast forms were analyzed. As a result, it was found that group 1 and 2 had similar small breasts, while group 3 had the largest size of breasts. 2. The forms of obese women's breast split, protrusion and volume, factors related with breast area and drooping, factor affecting the breast protrusion and factor defining the lower form of breast. 3. The actual breast types of obese women could be classified into cone type, protrusion type, drooping type Ⅰ and Ⅱ. The more obese a woman was, her breast tended more to droop.
Materialism and Conspicuous Consumption in Clothing Information Sources
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 8, issue 2, 2000, Pages 293~304
The purpose of this study was to analyze the relationship between materialism and conspicuous consumption, and information sources. Data were administered to 357 women living in Sunchon from June to July 1999. For analysis of the data, factor analysis, t-test, one-way ANOVA, duncan's multiple range test, and multiple regression analysis were employed. The results of this study were summarized as follows. 1) Materialism was shown to have the significant differences according to age, marriage, education, occupation, social stratification groups. The higher the education, occupational status, social stratification groups and the lower the age is, or unmarried, the higher is materialism. The use of information sources were shown to have the significant differences according to age, marriage, education, occupation, income, social stratification groups. The higher the education, income, social stratification groups. The higher the education, income, occupational status, social stratification groups and the lower the age is, or unmarried, the higher is use of information. 2) Materialism was shown to have the significant differences according to the groups of conspicuous consumption. The higher conspicuous consumption is, the higher is materialism. The use of information were shown to have the significant differences according to groups of conspicuous consumption. The higher conspicuous consumption is, the higher is use of information. 3) The use of information were shown to have the significant differences according to materialism. The higher materialism is, the higher is use of information. 4) According to the results of the regression analysis examining the relative influences of variables affecting information, the relative importance of the variables are in order of ; happiness-pursuable materialism, conspicuous consumption and their explanatory power totalled 18.6%.
A Study on the Shopping Orientation, Self-image, and the Store Attributes of the Men in Twenties and Thirties
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 8, issue 2, 2000, Pages 305~314
The purposes of this study were (1) to segment the men in twenties and thirties according to apparel shopping orientation and (2) to create a profile for each group with regard to importance of store attributes, self-image and demographic variables. The questionnaire was administered to men in twenties and thirties living in Seoul and data were analyzed by frequency, percentage, factor analysis, cluster analysis, χ²-test, and one-way ANOVA. The results were as follows : 1) By cluster analysis of apparel shopping orientation factors, three groups were identified : (1) ostentatious shopper(44.5%), (2) practical shopper(21.8%), and (3) individuality-pursuit shopper(33.7%). 2) Three groups were compared on store attributes and self-image. Significant differences were found among the three groups on two variables. Ostentatious shoppers pursued the masculine and sophisticated image and tended to prefer the store image and reputation, convenient transportation and parking place, and variety of products. Practical shoppers pursued the self-image which reflected the conservative and not-noticeable image and considered the moderate price of the products most importantly. Finally, individuality-pursuit shoppers preferred the sexy and noticeable image and considered the display and accommodation of the trendy products. 3) In terms of the demographic variables the significant differences were found on education, occupation, monthly income, and marital status. In general ostentatious shoppers tended to earn higher monthly income than those of the two groups. Practical shoppers tended to be well-educated and individuality-pursuit shoppers tended not to be married.
A Study on The Characteristics of The Avant-garde′s Style Expressed in Modern Fashion
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 8, issue 2, 2000, Pages 315~333
The purpose of this study is to find out how the aesthetic values and characters of the Avant-garde fashion through semantics analysis of Avant-garde experiments in the early 20th century. Inner expressions of Avant-garde fashion in future dynamism, alien-hostile, and surreal-experimentalism are as followings (1) Reject tradition of existing fashion concept, (2) Dismantle costume material and inter-text characteristics in fashion field, (3) Laugh at material civilization and elite fashion, (4) Pursue primitive and fundamental sensibility on non-civilized world (5) Express human estrangement due to material civilization, (6) Remove the barrier of fashion between luxury and cheap ones, (7) Time, space and purpose is mixed, (8) Open concept as space structure independent of human body, (9) Complicatedness, ambiguity and expression of irregularity as changeableness, (10) Dismantle concept of beauty and ugliness. As you see, fashion design in modern Avan-garde is pursuing newness as beauty of open concept, rejecting all modern tradition and allowing extremity such as experimental, illogic, unreasonable and non-formatted expressions.