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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 8, Issue 6 - Dec 2000
Volume 8, Issue 5 - Oct 2000
Volume 8, Issue 4 - Aug 2000
Volume 8, Issue 3 - Jun 2000
Volume 8, Issue 2 - Apr 2000
Volume 8, Issue 1 - Feb 2000
Selecting the target year
A Study of the Suit Buying Conditions for Men
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 8, issue 3, 2000, Pages 339~348
The purpose of this research was to offer basic data for study of men's suits by investigating the buying conditions of men's suits. For data collection, a questionnaire was composed of a purchasing price, a purchasing place, the source of the information, the reason of the suit buying, a standard for choice, recognition of the ready-made suit's size and a number of suits they buy etc. The subjects of this research were male who aged 20∼59 and resided in Seoul and the capital region. The results of the research were summarized as the following : 1. Most of the men purchased a ready-made suit rather than a custom suit and a easy-order suit because of the convenience for buying. But the elder was tend to purchase a custom suit than the younger. And the reason of custom suit or easy-order suit buying was size for fitness. 2. It was usually done in a department store and an agency as a purchasing place. The men who resided in Seoul used a department store more than ones who resided in the capital region. Most of the men used bargain sale. The source of the information of suits came principally himself and a wife. Most of the men purchased the suits with their wives of themselves. The elder depended upon their wives for buying suit than the younger. The standards for buying the ready-made suit were color, style and price. The number of suit they buy in a year was 0.9 suits for S/F, 0.7 suits for winter, 0.4 suits for summer and 0.2 suits for combination. The main purchasing price was 150,000∼250,000 won. 3. Most of the consummer was to be satisfied a sense of wearing, color, design etc, but they ware not to be satisfied price, A/S, size etc for ready-made suits. And they usually didn't know the size of ready-made suits.
Effects of the Purchasing Situation in Store on Apparel Purchasing Behavior According to the Shopping Motivation
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 8, issue 3, 2000, Pages 349~359
The purposes of the study were to investigate the causal relationships between shopping motivation, purchasing situation in store, experienced affection, and purchasing behavior. We collected data from 430 consumers shopping in the apparel store of two department in Busan, and analyzed by factor analysis and regression analysis. The result of this study were as follows ; 1. Purchasing situations which influenced consumers'apparel purchasing behaviors in apparel store were consisted of four factors such as Physical factor, Product factor, Inter-personal Factor and Salesmen factor. 2. Experienced affections in apparel store were consisted of four factors such as Pleasure, Ignorance, Superiority and Insecurity. 3. The main causal course of the apparel purchasing behavior was the shopping motivation → the purchasing situation in store (→the experienced affection in store) → the apparel purchasing behavior. 4. Shopping motivation appeared to be the most important variable determining purchasing behavior in apparel store. Especially, the superiority experienced in store appeared to be positive effects. 5. The causal relationships of purchasing behavior in apparel store were significant differences between two relationships by shopping motivations. In conclusion, this study showed that purchasing situation in apparel store effected on purchasing behavior with the different causal relationships by shopping motivations.
A Study on the Active Plan of Internet Fashion Shopping-Mall
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 8, issue 3, 2000, Pages 360~373
The purpose of this thesis is to analyze the present conditions and problems of the Internet Fashion Shopping-Mall, grope for as active plan to the Internet Fashion Shopping-Mall as a strategic method of fashion industry. The fashion industry of Internet Electronic Commerce has good prospect, and I propose the following some strategic plans of Internet Fashion Shopping-Mall. On the basis of my study, as a means of technology supplement, Virtual Reality System, such as 3D System or the newest Electronic Dressing Room System to solve the problem of products'an actual feeling, should be needed for consumers to feel as they really put the clothes on. Second, to offer more diversity programs, such as consumer sensitivity program, additional service, fashion news, life information and so on, are needed for companies to come over again the consumers to connect to the shopping-mall site. And, to build more perfect security terms of payment systems, such as ICash, Disital Cash, Net Check, Internet Insurance and so on, should be introduced for consumers to pay and furnish their personal information. If these technological developments are realized, Internet Fashion Shopping-Mall products will be a great success.
Influence of Seasonal Variation on Basal Metabolic Rates on Thermal Environments & Clothing Weight
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 8, issue 3, 2000, Pages 374~386
This study investigated the relation between seasonal variation of total clothing weight, room, outdoor temperature and basal metabolic rate in man. The basal metabolic rate and total clothing weight, room temperature was determined seasonal for a period of two years and grouped four seasons. Subjects (adults volunteers) who live in seoul and mokpo were compose 120 subject The results were obtained as follows. Seasonal outdoor temperature was difference of seoul and. mokpo. But room temperature in apartments was a little difference than private house. Total-clothing weight is showed seasonal variations at the seoul, private house than at the mokpo, apartment.. The basal metabolic rate is suggested there in gender difference in the basal metabolic rate (P〈.001). The basal metabolic rate increased gradually with the peak of winter sespectively and deceased again todward summer. The difference of between basal metabolic rate in summer and winter was significant room temperature, of seoul and private house, and light total clothing weight
A Study on the Happening and the Culture of Hippies
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 8, issue 3, 2000, Pages 387~410
The purpose of this study was to approach to the internal meanings included in the Happening and the culture of hippies, by analysing the basic mental conditions in the process of the Happening. And this study was composed of the concept and the development of Happening, the characteristics of the hippies that related in the midst of the happening's background, and the formativeness between these factors and hippies'fashion. Since the happening a genre of fine arts expression attended the New School for social research in New York in 1954, Allan Kaprow direct-influenced by John Cage used the word 'Hapening'first, practicing '18 Happenings in 6 parts'at the Rueben gallery in 1959. Kaprow's 18 Happenings was one of the earliest opportunities for a wider public to attend the live events that several artists had performed more privately for various friends. Despite the very different sensibilities and structures of artist's works, artists were all thrown together by the press under the general heading of 'Happening', following Kaprow's 18 Happenings. Being considered as the root of the Happening 'Expression of Sound'of John Cage was the discovery of the exisiting thing- the Happening. Most artists were to be deeply influenced by Cage's theories and attitudes-that is, his sympathy for Zen Buddihism and oriental philosophy-and by reports of the Black Mountain events. These events would directly reflect contemporary painting and stemmed from the Futurists, Dadaists and Surrealists. And Happening's development background was based on the culture of hippies. Swinging London had been under the sway of psychedelic drugs and utopian visions of 'hippie'wave sweeping in from Califonia. This wave, which affected solid middle-class youth first and formost, began in Haight Ashbury in San Francisco. Without dwelling on the hippie movement here, it is worth nothing that it resulted from the convergence of several undercurrents : consciousness-expending drugs, the anti-Vietnam war developments, the impact of English pop groups on American music and the rise of protest songs, and finally the beatnik tradition of non-conformism. Hippie culture and its pursuit of love, peace and psychedelia was the antitheses of 1960s main street fashion. The media gave everyone with long hair the label of 'hippie', but it was always a very loose collage of attitudes and styles. The rejection of sexual taboos was conveyed by the hippie's refusal to wear. Although the bold exposure of body raised controversies because it went against the existing moral values, it has a significant implications. Psychedelics brought mind-expansion and the possibillity that modern technology (light show, synthesized electronic sounds), new fabrics or colors, and LSD could be utilized to provide an escape route from the dreariness of modern life. During the 1960s, traditional costumes, many of which had never been seen outside their native regions, became sought after and adopted in the West, initially by the young, who wanted to demonstrate their solidarity with cultures uncontaminated by mass industry. The most ardent proponents of such folk costumes were the hippies. Hippies dress was sometimes decribed as 'anti-fashion', produced by a patchwork of ragged cast-offs and flamboyant accessories, of outmoded Western dress and time-honored ethnic garments all combined, modified and permutated into variety of personal statements. 'Flower Power'became a reality. From the results of this study, we can see the expanding trend of the influence and the concept of the sew art genre 'Happening'in the formativeness as well as the fine arts field.
Image of Perfect Gentlemen in Fashion
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 8, issue 3, 2000, Pages 411~421
Black froak coat, white shirts, top hat and cane has been the symbol of gentlemen in 19th and early of 20th century. The pattern invented by Savile Row in London prevailed whole England. Such a pattern has been the standard form for two hundred years all over the word, although it was replaced with a functionalism which developed in Italy and America at the end of 20th century. The clothes of gentlemen was developed by several factors ; English people respect a tradition. The clothes was practical, since the weather in England was bad. The success of Industrial Revolution made England wealthy. Various special clothes in sports, for example, riding, criket, golf and tennis also contribute the modern gentlemen clothes with advance tailoring technique. The change of gentlemenship with social environment, from Regency dandy, Romantic gentlemen to Muscular Christianity, was studied. Idial gentlemenship and development its clothes which is now the standard of modern men's wear also studied.
A Study on the Relationship between Self-Actualization and Preference in Clothing Design of Individualist and Conformist
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 8, issue 3, 2000, Pages 422~435
In this study female college students having high interest in fashion were selected by homogeneous purposive sampling. The students were classified into two groups. 301 Students living in Chinju were asked on self-actualization and design preference. The date of respondents were analyzed by Pearson's correlation coefficients and t-test. The results of this study can be summarized as follows. 1. The line preference, chroma, thickness and weight of clothing textile were different in these two groups. 2. The students of individuality had self-actualization, feeling reactivity, self-regard, existentiality and capacity of intimate contact. 3. There were significant relation between self-actualization and the preference for clothing form, color and texture in two groups.
A Study on The Grotesque Make-up in the Late 1990′s - Focused on Make-up Advertisements and Collections -
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 8, issue 3, 2000, Pages 436~499
The purpose of this study is to be inquired social and cultural significance of the Grotesque phenomenon in the late 1990's make-up, as well as its experimentalism and avantgardism. The Grotesque is the aesthetic concept, which is composed of ambivalent structure of humor and horror, interest and disgust through join of heterogenous factors, distortion, extreme and overstatement in the patterns and materials of make-up. The Grotesque in the modern make-up is represented in the make-up advertisements and collections. In this paper, the author classified the Grotesque phenomenon with the Kitsch, the Machine, the Animal and the Devil, focused on heterogenous factors. The results are as follows. 1. The Kitsch in the make-up uses not cosmetics but imitations, ready-made goods, and ordinary materials. It expresses modern culture's laziness through shocking self-expression. 2. The Machine in the make-up means silver or white color's make-up, and represents cyber period's arrival through contrary irony, loss of the human value and the personifications of machine. At the same time, it is understood as the curing of human alinetion. 3. The Animal in the make-up utilizes the wild animal's horn, the reptiles'sputum, and the legend's animal. It points out a human false virtual image, and overturns make-up's traditional aesthetic concept. 4. The Devil in the make-up shows vampire's cuspid, demon's horn, artificial nail, and black color's make-up. It raises social irrationality and discrepancy of capitalism, and expresses paradoxically the nature of human life. The Devil in the make-up expresses the creator's innovation, anxiety of fin-de-siecle, and simultaneously criticizes and cures confused reality. It shows also avantgarde implementation of dissolution of traditional aesthetic concept and acceptance ugliness.
An Effect of Clothing Purchasing Situation on Perceived Risk and Information Search Behavior
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 8, issue 3, 2000, Pages 450~459
The purpose of this study was to test the effect of the clothing purchasing situation on the preceived risk and information search behavior. Data were obtained from 369 students who were studying in Semyung University. The results of this study were as follows : 1. Students gave the clothing to their favorites as a gift 1 to 2 times in a year. And they thought self using purchasing was more important than gift giving purchasing. 2. In gift giving purchasing, perceived risks were higher than self using purchasing. But the economic risk was the exception. In that case, students showed more information search behavior except family search source. 3. According to the situation, main and interactive effect of sex and involvement level on perceived risk and information search behavior were significant. In self using purchasing, involvement level had the main effect to the type of information search behavior. But the family search source was the exception Also in gift giving purchasing, they showed the same results. In self using purchasing, main effects of sex and involvement level on perceived risk were significant. Also in gift giving purchasing, they showed the same results, but the socio-psychological risk was the exception.
A Study on Body Consciousness, and Clothing Behavior of Male College Students
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 8, issue 3, 2000, Pages 460~476
The purpose of this study was, accordingly, to examine male college student's general body consciousness and their actual condition of wearing clothing, as it's assumed that clothing, which everyone must always wear, might be effective in making up for the physical defect. The findings of this study were as follows : 1. Male College Students'Body Consciousness : They expressed some dissatisfaction with their own body, and they were most discontented with their height, among their bodies. They thought of the western-style shape as an ideal one, as what's considered by them to be ideal was thinner a little than them, being taller with wider shoulder, longer legs, smaller and white face. 2. Male College Students'Characteristics of Clothing Purchasing Behavior : In purchasing clothing, male college students were slightly sensitive about the physical part with which they wasn't satisfied. The clothing pattern preferred by them was an abstract one, and their favorite color was white or black. The greatest number of them put most emphasis on design in buying clothing, and they purchased clothing mainly at special fashion shop. On the whole, they showed an affirmative response toward wearing Korean costume, and they also had a positive opinion about the purchase of reformed Korean dress for everyday life. 3. Male College Students'Characteristics of Wearing Clothing : They appeared not to consider making up for physical weakness. Male college students favored aloha shirt and trousers when they went out. Male college students purchase clothing in consideration of individual, manly, classical, tender, or comfortable factors. 4. Relationship of Body Consciousness to Wearing Behavior : The degree to which they considered covering up physical weakness in wearing clothing was examined, by dividing them into two groups : one was a group that thought their own shape normal, and the other was a group that didn't think of their own shape as normal. As a result, both groups appeared not to consider covering up physical weakness.
A Study on the Influential Factors of Clothing Conspicuous Consumption and Clothing Purchasing Behaviors
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 8, issue 3, 2000, Pages 477~485
The purpose of this study is to identify the influential factors of clothing conspicous consumption, and the relationship between these consumer characteristics and clothing purchasing behaviors. The influential factors of clothing conspicous consumption are defined materialism, sensation seeking tendency and demographic characteristics. And clothing purchasing behavior can be defined such as fashion leadership, impulsive purchasing behaviors, bargain sale purchasing, and the price and total pieces of clothing. The data were collected from 320 female students of university using questionnaire, and were analysed with frequency, %, multiple regression, ANOVA and Duncan test. Reresults can be summerized as follows. First, clothing conspicous consumption was not influenced to sensation seeking tendency but materialism. Second, the sensation seeking tendency, materialism and clothing conspicous consumption was proven to be partially related to the clothing purchasing behaviors. Third, the demographic characteristics have influenced on the sensation seeking tendency, materialism, clothing conspicous consumption and clothing purchasing behaviors.
A Study on Jang il of China and Koguryo
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 8, issue 3, 2000, Pages 486~492
This study is concerned with the jang il ( 日). The purpose of this study was to trace the origin of jang il and to identify forms and the meaning of it. Significant findings and results of this research can be summerized as follows : It was found that jang il was a kind of brimmed hat with a round crown. People of Han Dynasty period wore jang il. It was favored by the people of Wei Chin (魏晉) Dynasty period of China and was a very popular hat in these periods. It was used by farmers and merchants. It was found that jang il was worn by a tribe of Kang(羌) in prehistorical period. It is considered that jang il of the Chinese, was derived from the people of Kang(羌). In the Tang and Five Dynasty periods women also wore jang il. Women from the upper class appeared used jang il. It appeared that Koguryoreans also used jang il : it was a kind of black wide brimmed hat with a round crown. which can be found in the tomb paintings of Yong Kang(龍崗). A horse rider wears jang il.
A Study on Costume in Pak Tong Sa Eun Hae
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 8, issue 3, 2000, Pages 493~511
The objective of this study was to trace and to examine costume terminologies recorded in Pak Tong Sa Eun Hae. Names of costumes and costume related terms were collected from P마 Tong Sa Eun Hae. Books and various references from China and Korea were used for this study. Costume terms were examined from the Chinese and Korean. Classifications of costume terminologies from the data were made for the analysis : man and woman's costume, accessories, names of fabrics, colors, and decorative motifs used, professional costume, special occasion dresses and so on. Conclusions and summary of results and findings can be summerized as follows : It revealed that manes of man's costume and other costume related words were a large in number compared with those of woman. Only one name of woman's costume appeared in the text : It was kind of long vests. However, names of accessories such as a hat, a hat decorated with jewels and phoenix design, a hair pin, earings, bracelets, finger rings, a soft belt were shown in the text. While many costume names of man included in the text were of garments such as a kind of long vest, a short vest, an outer robe, a kind of long coat with pleated skirt, leg coverings, outer jacket and so on. Also names of undergarments such as an under skirt, a belly covering, and drawers were found in the text. Fabric names were mostly silks such as brocade, twill, sarcenet, damasks and plain silks. Blue was the most widely appeared fabric color in the text and red was the second. Design motifs of fabric design were of dragon, flowers, eight precious things, clouds which were characteristic design motifs of the Chinese. It was found that some of the Chinese costume terminologies were translated into the Korean although many Chinese costume terms were used as the original Chinese.