Go to the main menu
Skip to content
Go to bottom
REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 8, Issue 6 - Dec 2000
Volume 8, Issue 5 - Oct 2000
Volume 8, Issue 4 - Aug 2000
Volume 8, Issue 3 - Jun 2000
Volume 8, Issue 2 - Apr 2000
Volume 8, Issue 1 - Feb 2000
Selecting the target year
A Study on Development of Hypermedia Couseware for Fashion Design Education
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 8, issue 5, 2000, Pages 629~637
This paper focuses on the development of a fashion design educational program that will foster the talent and aesthetic consciousness of fashion design students. The goal of progressive educational methods with cutting edge technology is to elevate educational efficiency, and ultimately rear creative designers. To fulfill its objective, this paper presents a courseware program on fashion design education utilizing hyper media that include animation, photographs, pictures, sounds and characters. By the utilization of such comprehensive source of information media, a hypermedia courseware was developed for elementary education in fashion design with the following conclusions : 1. The program enables the students to customize their fashion design education. The students of fashion design education programs are able to choose and adjust their own programs to suit their requirements and intellectual level. 2. The program effectively motivates. Much like a constant sequence of various images on a screen that can provoke profound heart-felt emotions and inspire creativity, the program can stimulate and motivate the students. 3. The program provides a consistent education. To advance the overall quality of fashion design education, the problem of dissonance in educational content should be resolved and possible individual errors in delivery rectified. The present program will solve such problems, and establish coherent standards that will withstand the test of time regardless of time or place. 4. The program is cost effective. Since the present program frees the teacher from the time consuming drudgery of preparing various texts and lesson plans, have the materials delivered and handled, it reduces the time and cost previously required. 5. The program has the capability to be upgraded. The accumulated know-how of teachers and the total experience of the program can be linked with other programs for limitless expansion.
A Study on the Attribute of Seun-Hee Choi′s Dancing Costumes and Its Interrelationship with Modern Costumes
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 8, issue 5, 2000, Pages 638~647
The purpose of this study is to discover the interrelationship between modern costumes and Seung-Hee Choi's dancing costumes in 1930s. Seung-Hee Choi, who was a dancing pioneer in Korea, introduced the modern dancing costumes for the first time in Korea. The results are as followed ; First, we can find Eroticism in Choi's dancing dress. Choi's dancing costume had used gold thread, silver thread, spangle, see-through and a half-naked body clothing that decorated with beads and cords. It is similar to modern costumes in ubjet mtter, silhouette, design, and so on. Second, the influence of Futurism was in her dancing costumes, that is, it represented asymmetry designs and rectilineal figures. Third, not only beauty but also a Functionalism was expressed in her dancing costumes. Functional beauty was shown through bias cut, pleats, slit, and so on.
A Semiotic Approach to Korean Ceremonial Dress (II) - Focusing on Mourning Dresses in Chosun Dynasty -
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 8, issue 5, 2000, Pages 648~659
Through this study I would like to examine the meaning system of the symbolized codes related with real costume figures of the abstract concept of the style of the mourning ceremonial dress in Chosun Dynasty as a variable cause of communication through non-language method by the structural analysis of coding of the ceremonial dress style and the meaning system of the codes centering on the traditional book of funeral etiquette dealing with hueneral cereony in the period. To achieve this purpose, I have used the symbolic theory of constructive concept by F. de Saussure, cultural notation theory of Roland Barthes & Umberto Eco, and structural style of costumes by Myung-Sook Han. The result of the study is as follows. 1. As Chosun Dynasty was a society in which people considered courtesy so much important and practiced the basic Confucian ideas of the three bonds and five moral disciplines in human relations, the characteristic of funeral rites in Chosun Dynasty consists in expression of the thoughts of moral ethics & relative systems and systems of clan rules, etc which was a langue determining the symbols of mourning ceremony dress because the mourning ceremony dress in the period should have the feature of a langue. The mourning ceremonial dresses in the period had five grades of the consume and the grades were determined to be classified into five levels according to the clan system of the chief mourner with sang, ha bang. And the method of the association of the mourning ceremonial dress codes had the six principles of Chinchin, Jonjon, Myoungboon, Chulip, Changyu, and Jongbok. 2. Regarding the mourning ceremonial costumes in Korean society, the meaning of funeral ceremony was expressed by the signifier and materials of the mourning costumes in the society. During the process of the funeral, the intangible feeling of condolence was the expression of mourning and the tangible mourning ceremonial dress was the signal with the lamentation meaning. Especially, characters and patterns were removed from the mourning ceremonial dresses in spite of their function of symbols and the styles of costumes were emphasized. Especially the meaning of condolences was symbolized by attachment of some small pieces of cloth on the upper garments. Hemp was mainly emphasized to be the material of the costumes and some different meanings showed according to the quality of the material hemp. The mourning ceremonial dresses were distinguished from ordinary dresses, which were emphasized because they gad some symbolic meaning of the mourning. 3. Considering the association of the synthetic relations of the costumes from the viewpoint that the mourning ceremonial dresses would be classified according to a system, the symbolization of them were avaliable by sex according to how to combine them and there were no distinction between social classes in the society.
Assessment of Clothing Ventilation through Openings
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 8, issue 5, 2000, Pages 660~667
Clothing ventilation was investigated using a manikin wearing an impermeable overall under an isothermal condition, in which the ventilation occurred only through the openings. The ventilation volume was estimated by both microenvironment volume and ventilation rate, where, the microenvironment volume was measured by an air subsitution method and the ventilation rate by a trace gas method. Microenvironment volume of the experimental garment was about 21.0 liters. Even though it was certainly affected by the distance from the opening, the ventilation rate was more significantly influenced by the opening area and the shape of air layer in the clothing. The volume of air exchange in the clothing microenvironment was affected greatly by the microenvironment volume and the opening area, and it was different for each part of the body with bigger air exchange volume in the microenvironment of the leg as compared to that of the arm.
A Study on the Shapes of Women′s Neck and Shoulder in Dressmaking I
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 8, issue 5, 2000, Pages 668~680
The study presents the general types and individual differences of the shape of the adult women's neck and shoulder in our country. It is based on the average value, the standard deviation, the maximum value, the standard deviation, the maximum value, the minimum value and c.v. measured from the women at the age of 19 through 64. The results of this study are as follows ; 1. The factors by factor analysis are five. The first is the size factors of the neck and shoulder. The second is shape factor of neck. The third is plane view and length factor of the neck. The fourth is the side view factor of the neck and shoulder. The fifth is the shape factor of shoulder. Therefore the shape of the neck and shoulder should be examined in the shape factors as well as in the size factors as well as in the size factors for the designing body-suitable clothes. 2. The factors of the concrete objects are the solid view of neck and shoulder, the cross-sectional view of neck line, side view of neck and shoulder and length of neck. The explainable measuring items for the factors are the difference of the length between lower neck round line and the 4㎝ above neck round line, the length of neck, the angle of inclination between fore neck and back neck, the angle of inclination of the side shoulder, the difference of the height between fore neck point and back neck point, the width of shoulder, the width of chest and the width of back. 3. The concrete objects of the neck and shoulder have five types ; Type Ⅰ is average type, Type Ⅱ is thick short neck and the drooping shoulder type, Type Ⅲ I is slender long neck and lean-back shoulder type, Type Ⅳ is thick and rising shoulder type and Type Ⅴ is slender and drooping shoulder type.
The Symbols of the Body Image Expressed in Modern Fashion Design
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 8, issue 5, 2000, Pages 681~706
This study is intended to understand an implication system and significance in the current community which a body image symbolizes by correlating it with fashion that is on the rise as a principal issue in various fields. For this study, the symbolism of the body image was contemplated in terms of philosophy and art, and then on the basis of it, the symbolism of the body image shown in modern fashion design was analyzed through fashion works. The research results are as follows, 1. The manifestation of sex can be taken as the symbolism of the body image which is expressed in modern fashion design. Recently sexual chaos and vagueness such as homosexuality and bisexuality are expressed through a dress and its ornaments. Though displaying sexual characteristics of male and female as they are exposing a sign or a diagram, decorating a part of body or representing sex in garments, uncertain sex identity in modern society is manifested in dress and its ornaments. It is to deny absoluteness regarding sex and emphasize diversity indwelt in human beings, and after all it shows to pursue the human essence. 2. Another symbolism of the body image is body expression as the human race and an ethnic group. The discriminating situations and the restoration of their status appeared in modern fashion too. Moreover, their cultures and issues came to alter the aesthetic standard of body made from a view of the Western white supremacist. Hereupon, fashion trends like ethnic fashion, Orientalism and African look etc. appear according to this tendency, which represents race and national identity and in addition, which signifies to present transcendental human conception embracing alienated human conception. 3. The symbolism of the body image expressed in a body, and a dress and its ornaments as nature can be considered in terms of the concern on environmental contamination and the respect of echo system. Getting away from reigning over, developing and stamping down nature at their will, the human beings pursue unity with nature, which is described in fashion. They are stressing that natural materials and objects such as animal, plant and soil etc. should activily be introduced into fashion and humans are a communal fate group and should reframe their status in nature at last. 4. The body image shown in a body, a dress and its ornaments as technology is transformed and recreated by modern scientific techniques and medical science to show post human conception namely, forthcoming future human conception as a cyborg which loses individual identity. This presents a perfect future human conception with high level of preternatural power but after all, leaves us a task to seek the meaning of human existence in alienation caused by the loss of human identity and existence. In this manner, the moderns crave for perceiving the identity of a natural human being in the current thoughts tendency of the modern times such as postmodernism, post structuralism, deconstructionism, feminism and so on, which build discussions affecting the art and fashion worlds. The categories, like sexual characteristics indwelt in a human body, racial classifications, the natural environment surrounding human beings and development of science, bring out the importance of the internal and external meaning in today's fashion which a human body contains, and present sew human conception in the coming future society.
A Study on the Type and Character of Apparel Brand Names for the Net-Generation
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 8, issue 5, 2000, Pages 707~716
The purpose of this study was to explane the Net generation's characters appearing in the apparel brand naming for them. For this study, first I was trying to explane the New generation characters, second 45 apparel brands were selected by market research and questionaire survey was conducted on 53 the Net generation collage women of age 20 thru 21. Third, the apparel brands were classified into four types according to the characters reflecting in the apparel brand naming : First, the apparel brand type using the figures such as STORM=292513, 1492Miles. Second, the apparel brand type that two or more words are abbreviated into one word. Third, the apparel brand type containing more than one meaning in a brand naming or spelling the words as it pronunciate. Fourth, the apparel brand type using of slang. In conclusion, These types of the apparel brands were related to characters of the New generation, i.e., they who have grown in the advance of digital civilization are skilled in the communication through computer, internet and mobile phone, so that they are familiar with the figures, combined words, or abbreviated words etc. Also, they have individual, sensitivity character and seek after individuality, current fashion. They have also a tendency to accept various the sense of value, while they have a refusing tendency a custom or convention which the older generation has conformited.
A Study on the Development of Computer-Aided Fashion Design
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 8, issue 5, 2000, Pages 717~725
The purpose of this study was, as an experimental one, to suggest concrete ways to use computer in fashion design from information collection to design completion, and to present a real example based on the suggested ways. The first step to attain the purpose was gathering various sorts of worldwide fashion design information on the Internet, and then the collected data were inserted in a graphic file. Next, two methods of fashion design that use computer graphics were recommended : one was to produce fashion design just by altering some of the inputted Internet fashion materials, and the other was to do it after selected basic materials were put in database. Those methods could enable one to do fashion design just with rearrangement and smallest change of the prepared basic materials, without drawing directly, and at the same time, they could minimize time and efforts required for computer fashion design.
A Study on the Combination of Suit Details for Image of Classic Style Suits-Middle Aged Women′s Body Construct
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 8, issue 5, 2000, Pages 726~740
The purpose of this study is to evaluate the combination of suit details through visual evaluation which helps compensating the classic style suits-middle aged women's body construct for their more attractive fashion styles. The styles of the evaluated suits are formal and classical. The designs of evaluated suits are manipulated in 40 different kinds by the essential elements such as collars, necklines(tailored collars, soutien collars, stand collars, round necklines, V-necklines, etc.), bottoms(slacks, skirts), pocket (flap pocket, none) and opening(opened, closed). The data evaluated by a multiple ranking test were analyzed by paired t-test, ANOVA and Duncan's multiple raged test. The results are summarized as follows : 1. A middle aged woman on skirts suits look more graceful, more elegant, and a bit more refined than that on slacks suits. 2. A middle aged woman wearing a jacket with flap pockets on looks more balanced, and graceful than when wearing with no pockets. 3. Wearing closed jackets looks more balanced and graceful than on opened jackets. 4. The types of collar·necklines can be called the details which put much influence on Image effects. Putting on tailored collar suits is the most graceful, refined, balanced and harmonious case than any others.
A Study on the Lower Body Range of Motion(Using a 3-D Motion Analysis System) about Korean Adults
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 8, issue 5, 2000, Pages 741~753
The purpose of this study : 1. The total 24 range measurements of active dynamic motion of 40 subjects(20's and 30's, and 40's∼60's) using previous studies. The results were compared with the other studies in the aspects of age. In this study, The 3-D motion analysis system consists of VICON 140, data acquisition system, and data analysis program called by KRISSMAS. VICON 140 is dynamic motion analyzer, and KRISSMAS is a program developed for analysis of the data captured from the VICON. The results of this study were as follows : 1. Comparing 20's∼30's and 40's∼60's the result shows that 40's∼60's have smaller ROM at the most joints(Thoratic and Lumber, Hip Joint, Knee Joint, Ankle Joint), which is inconsistent with the previous result. The reason is that most investigations were carried out using traditional measurement equipments, which have encountered difficulty in quantifying the exact motion of the body. 2. There are no significant mean difference between the right and the left side. Most of the significances were not high(〉0.05).
A Study on the Shapes of Women′s Neck and Shoulder in Dressmaking - According to Body Type and Age Group -
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 8, issue 5, 2000, Pages 754~770
The definite objects of this study are as follows ; 1. The study presents concrete objects of the shape of adult women's neck and shoulder after comparing and analyzing the features of five age groups ; the former young age, the latter young age, the former middle age, the latter middle age, the latter middle age and the old age. 2. The study presents concrete objects of adult women's neck and shoulder by the body types ; bend-forward type, straight type and lean-back type in order to be examined the body types. The results of this study are as follows ; 1. The shape of neck and shoulder needs the several concrete objects of each types because of the variable factors in size and body types. But the concrete objects of the types referred in five age groups contain all the important factors and enable to design the body suitable clothes. 2. This study shows that generally bend-forward type contains rising shoulder and lean-back type contains drooping shoulder, and straight type contains average value of neck and shoulder. The results of this study developed the body-suitable clothes of bend-forward type, straight type and lean-back type.
The Purchasing Behavior and Use of Cosmetics Associated with Self-Monitoring and Demographic Variables
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 8, issue 5, 2000, Pages 771~784
The purpose of this study was to investigate the casual relationships of self-monitoring, face satisfaction, and demographic variables on the purchasing behavior and use of cosmetics of women. Samples wre 479 women in their 20's to 50's in Seoul, Korea. Three factors of the purchase criteria of cosmetics derived by factor analysis : F.1 'intrinsic trait', F.2 'sales promotion and fashion', F.3 'economy. Women high in self-monitor purchased and used cosmetics more than those low in self-monitor. There were significant relationships between the purchasing behavior and use of cosmetics and age, education, and social stratification. Women in their 20's and 30's perceived purchase criteria associated with intrinsic trait such as color and becomingness as more important, 20's sales promotion and fashion, women with less education perceived economy more than did the others. Upper class women showed more concern for intrinsic trait such as quality and color of cosmetics than did lower class. Social stratification, age, self-monitoring, and education had a direct effect on the degree of cosmetics purchase. Self-monitoring and education had a direct effect on the degree of cosmetics use. Age, education, social stratification, and face satisfaction had an indirect effect on the degree of cosmetics purchase and use. The causal relationship of self-monitoring on the use of coloring cosmetics was stronger than the connection between self-monitoring and total cosmetics. The present findings provide that personal trait associated with self-monitoring of women is important variable in understanding of the purchasing behavior and use of cosmetics.