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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 8, Issue 6 - Dec 2000
Volume 8, Issue 5 - Oct 2000
Volume 8, Issue 4 - Aug 2000
Volume 8, Issue 3 - Jun 2000
Volume 8, Issue 2 - Apr 2000
Volume 8, Issue 1 - Feb 2000
Selecting the target year
The Changing Advertising Campaigns of Jeans Ads in 1990's
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 8, issue 6, 2000, Pages 791~805
The purpose of this study is to analyze the jeans advertising campaigns of the 1990's in South Korean magazine advertisements and their relation to the beauty trends of the 1990's in South Korea. There are three significant and varying periods in the 1990's. Each period will be dissected into four categories. The four categories are 1. Catchphrases 2. Pose selection of the models 3. Selection of models 4. Overall images and themes of the ads. The results are as follows : 1. 1990∼1993 ; Youth & Freedom From 1990 to 1993, jean ads emphasized the catchphrsase and the dynamic pose more and used the Korean model. The ads displayed youthful energy and the freedom of the younger generation. 2. 1994∼1997 ; Sex Appeal From 1994 to 1997, the second transition in jeans advertisements focus shifted from the youthful images of the early 90's to more sexually oriented ads. In terms of model selections and pose, Caucasian models instead of Korean models, and static pose were used more. The ads emphasized the image more than the catchphrase. 3. 1998∼1999 ; Diversity of Individuality & Naturalism During 1998 to the present day, the jeans ads no longer focused on groups but the diversity of individuality. The other focus of ads was the naturalism and the harmony with the nature. Both the static and dynamic pose, Korean model, and the image ads were used.
A Study on the Formativeness of Materials of Man′Fashion in 1990′s
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 8, issue 6, 2000, Pages 806~821
Each and everything named fashion together with clothes were limited in the boundary of women and men's wear has been slow and narrow in changing speed compared to women's, even there are some differences in accordance time. But maintaining the basic features, men's wear in the latter 20th century has undergone diverse change in the part of materials such as various synthetic fiber, glass, metal, artificial leather and the see-through fabric able to seeing the body wearing the clothes. Therefore, the aim and definition of this study is to present the systematic framework giving help to develop men's wear design newer and more various by considering moulding of materials which existing men's wear could not show up and by grasping material trend of men's clothes in 1990s. The results of the study were summarized as follows : (1) Material containing lustering is categorized as Velvet, Silk, Lustering materials by synthetic fiber and Lustering materials by additional substance. The Velvet generally acknowledged having something to feel womanly image shows the bisexual character coexisting feature of men and women after grafting with men'fashion. The Silk was endowed the role as means of pleasure to express beyond boundary of sex breaking the existing consciousness which men should wear male clothes, not considering differences between men and women. The lustering made by synthetic fiber expressed modern sensitivity aesthetically to the suit. The lustering materials made by additional substance is seen mixed masculine character with womanly character. (2) See-through materials are acknowledged as decadence beauty caused by expanding subjective awareness in beauty. (3) Materials by the sorts of Net is categorized as Lace, Knit The Lace expression seemed to emphases the human liberation of men and women and the humanity from liberation of subjecthood. The Knit can be felt both woman's image and man's image as bisexual image, not raising only one side sex. (4) Elastic materials offered the opportunity to approve exposure in a time when exposure of men's body was not granted ethically. (5) Leather was shown as indication of social status and inferiority and expression of collective resistance against sexual stagnation of men and women.
A Study of Choson Shrouds and Current Shrouds How the Deceased Are Clothed
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 8, issue 6, 2000, Pages 822~841
The purpose of this study is to organize how the deceased are clothed. Although there are many people who have seen the dead clothed once or twice and although the clothing has been constantly going on, there have been no books or studies on how the deceased are clothed. Instead, the methods have only been handed down orally by seniors and others who are experienced in it. I see the necessity of systematizing the method of clothing the deceased so that both ordinary people as well as experts can utilize it properly to show their sincerity and courtesy towards the dead. This study is based on literature including old books, dissertations, publications, and reports on ethnic customs. It also refers from interview results of shrouds makers, those experienced in clothing the dead, and seniors knowledgeable in the trade. Funeral manifested the social status of the dead. Shrouds of the olden days had different colors, such as white, black, blue, red, etc. according to items. However, nowadays they are white, pink, or partially light blue or sometimes people just keep the colors of their original cloths. Current items do not differ much from those of the ancient times, though Kwadu, Km, and Po, which were used to cover the belly, have been relatively simplified. The form of shrouds has changed nowadays. There are differences in the funeral procedures and how the deceased are clothed. In the olden days, when a person died, the body was cleaned up and clothed the very next after death. Nowadays, the cleansing and clothing of the body and placing the body in the coffin are all done together the following day. According to the foregoing, though there are no big differences in the way the deceased are clothed between the olden days and the present, the order in which Aksu and B누 are placed, differs and the procedures, items and shape have been simplified.
A Study on Conspicuous Consumption and Clothing Shopping Motives according to Life Style
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 8, issue 6, 2000, Pages 842~852
The purpose of this study was to classify consumer groups according to the life style dimensions and to analyze conspicuous consumption, clothing shopping motives among consumer groups, and also to clarify relationships between demographic variables and the life style, conspicuous consumption, clothing shopping motives. The subjects were 329 women in their twenties living in Seoul. For data analysis, mean, factor analysis, cluster analysis, t-test, ANOVA, Duncan test were conducted. The results were as follows ; First, consumer groups were classified into the following five subdivisions : passive group, appearance consideration/self-realization group, appearance indifference group, family oriented/economic group, achievement oriented/active group. Second, the significant differences among the classified life style groups were found in conspicuous consumption and clothing shopping motives. Third, there were significant differences in life style, conspicuous consumption, clothing shopping motives according to demographic variables like age, occupation.
A State-of-the Art Review of Clothing and Textiles Research in Korea : 1991~1999
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 8, issue 6, 2000, Pages 853~863
This study is planned to present the future direction of the study of Korean clothes through the realistic recognition of the changes of studying issues of each area of the related clothes. For this purpose, the writer of this thesis have collected, classified and analyzed those various kinds of papers and theses published in the professional magazines of clothes such as Journal of Korean Home Economics, Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, The Research Journal of the Costume Culture so that I might examine and study the main trend of the related study. The result of the study is as follows. 1. Since the first publication of Journal of Korean Home Economics in 1959 and Journal of the Korea Society of Clothing and Textiles, and Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, the study of clothes has been gradually increased. Furthermore, since 1990 the issuing times of various kinds of Journals have been continuously increased with the foundation of The Research Journal of the Costume Culture and Journal of Fashion Business. 2. Theses and papers published in the four greatest Journals of Korean Clothing and Textiles have been studies for the detailed classification and analysis of the data. According to the study, It is found that the theses in Journal of the Korea Society of Clothing and Textiles have actively studied textiles as they had studied before 1990s and those in Journal of the Korean Society of Costume have studied history of costumes and those in The Research Journal of the Costume Culture have studied the composition and science of clothes. 3. The order of studying subjects was 1) Design and Aesthetics, 2) Fashion Merchandising 3) Textiles, 4) Clothing Construction, 5) History of Costumes, 6) Costume Culture, 7) Socio-Psychology of clothing, 8) Others. Considering the above mentioned result of the study, most of the main fields of the clothing and textiles study have been studied continuously in balance since 1990 unlike the past although the past studies had been performed largely in some main fields only. And it was found that fields of clothing styles and clothing goods have been studied most actively since 1990s. 4. The studying field of Design and Aesthetics has showed to have the trend to be studied very actively since 1990s, which has utilized various relevant data with scholastic approach to psychology and aesthetics. Regarding Fashion Merchandising, the study of consumers decision process has been performed most actively. And theses on the international trades have been published considerably more than ever before, which resulted in gradual increase in gradual increase in the study of the fields related with global marketing, internet marketing, textile products exports, and overseas brands, etc. Regarding Textiles, the field of clothing sanitation and management has been studied more actively than that of clothing materials. In case of clothing construction, the study of physical styles and pattern making has been more active than the other related fields. Fields of socio-psychology of clothing and history costume have been a little reduced. Field of costume culture has been firmly rooted as an independent subject to be studied in the clothing related study. And study of the clothes has shown various trends of studies of ethnic & folk clothes, religious and ceremonial garments, linguistic & favorite approach to clothes and academic analysis of the data.
A Study of Clothing Design Preference & Satisfaction with the Fit of Ready-to-Wear Clothing for Older Men
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 8, issue 6, 2000, Pages 864~870
The purpose of this study were to investigate clothing design preference (style, color, fabric print, kinds of fabrics) & satisfaction with the fit of ready-to-wear clothing for older Men. For this study, the questionnaires were administered to 650 older men in seoul from June to August, 1998. Employing a sample of 504 data were analyzed by mean, frequency and percent. With respect to clothing design preference, they prefer suit the style of outdoor clothing on going-out. On distinguish clothing into formal wear & casual wear, the color preference due to seasons has difference in spring clothing. Regarding the degree of fabric pattern preference, nonpattern single color fabric has occupied in formal wear, pattern in casual wear. Regarding the degree of fabric preference, they take a serious view of shape preservation in formal wear, utility (washing, sweat absorption) in causal wear. Suit has the lowest satisfaction in the fit of ready-to-wear clothing. Sleeve length the lowest in the degree of satisfaction for each part.
A Study of Folklore on the Traditional Wedding of the West Gyeong Nam District - Focused on 1920s~1950s -
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 8, issue 6, 2000, Pages 871~886
The purpose of this study is to understand the culture on the Traditional Wedding of the West Gyeong Nam District. The traditional wedding was characterized that the bridegroom visited his bride's house accompanied by his honored guests(上客) and the marriage ceremony was to be held in day time, and then the bridegroom became a son-in-law and stayed with the family for a few days. The bridegroom returned to his home, leaving his bride behind. After a certain period, the bride came to her husband's home as a daughter-in-law. The Traditional Wedding costume of the bridegroom were Samo-Gwandae. The coat (outside uniform) was blue Danryeong ornamented with two cranes figured Hyong-Bae and Heukgackdae. In case Samo-Gwandae was not available, Dopo or Durumakie could be substituted and they put on shoes in this case. A bridegroom put on Mokhwa his feet and under the Samo, and he also put on Nambawie or Bokguen. He put on Dopo or Haeng-eui(行衣) or Durumaki under the blue Danryeong. The bride put on Wonsam and Chokduri or Hwagwan on her hair. In case Wonsam was not available, Chima Jogori style or imitational Wonsam, which was roughly sewed with red cloth and blue cloth contained in the Honsuham (Box of wedding treasure), could be substituted. She put on Hyang-guen to protect her body against the coldness and to hide her face.
A Study on the Shroud, according to Change of Mourning & Funeral Custom
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 8, issue 6, 2000, Pages 887~898
Mourning & funeral ritual means a various kinds of ritual procedures which begins at the time of death, buried and created a graveyard, a manner of wearing funeral garment being mourning the death, finally go back to everyday life. Our mourning & funeral custom was burial at first time. After going through the era of the Three kingdoms, The unified Shilla and Korea dynasty, cremation method has been prevailed. However, based on Chu-tzu celebration in Chosun dynasty, the burial custom has been widely spread again. Nowadays, due to effective land utilization issue, excessive cost for burial and the change of thinking for cremation, the cremation is recognized as remedy of righteous funeral system. At this point, a shroud following existing burial custom burdens considerably for quality, price, size and design of it. Accordingly, it needs anew style of shroud corresponding to cremation system. As an alternative, the shroud is required simplification and standardization ; Firstly, in size, a shroud should be larger than plain clothes and differentiated in small, medium and large. Secondly, the material of a shroud would be white cotton, which can keep from pollution during burning time. Thirdly, it unifies the item. In case of man, 바지(把特, those are trousers), 저고리(赤古里, Korean-style jacket) and Durumagi(周衣, Korean topcoat). In case of woman, 치마(赤 , those are skirt), 저고리(赤古里, Koran-style jacket) and Durumagi(周衣, Korean topcoat).
A Study on the Adaptive Dress for the Disabled Ederly(2) - Nursing Facilities for the Ederly in Seoul and KyoungIn Area -
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 8, issue 6, 2000, Pages 899~914
The purpose of the study was to provide the actual data for designing adaptive dresses for the disabled elderly. In order to get the data, we had 3 parts of the procedure as follows ; 1. The survey of 205 nursing-care providers who take care of the disabled elderly in 1999. 2. Measuring 10 measurements of 80 disabled men and women each, 160 samples. 3. On the basis of data above, developing the adaptive dresses and doing the wearing-tests of those. The results are as follows ; 1. The most popular style for the disabled elderly in nursing facilities was non-collar pajama's. Specially, pajama style was needed for the disabled elderly being sick in bed, one-piece style was required for the disabled eldery with dementia. And the most desirable fabric function was a physiological comfortability. The most proper price required was about 20,000 won. 2. As Korean apparel industry use K.S. sizing system, we decided to use the same measurement to categorize the samples, bust and height. And according to the frequency in the size chart, we suggested the production size for the disabled eldery men and women. 3. After developing these adaptive dresses, the results of wearing-tests showed two kinds of problems. One was that of the sleeve length ; Actually, for the disabled elderly, the longer than the production size is the better for them. The other problem was revealed from subsidiay materials, fasteners.
A Study on Basic Costume Appearing in Genre Paintings from the Late 17th Century to the Early 18th Century : focused upon Works of DuSeo Yun and YoungSeok Cho
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 8, issue 6, 2000, Pages 915~929
As a result of research, the character of the general dress-costumes from the late 17th century to the early 18th century in Genre Paintings of DuSeo Yun and YoungSeok Cho is as follows. Firstly young women wore braided hair at the back of head and married women wore hair in the style of Unjeun-mori with Gache. The length of Jeogori (Korean traditional jacket) covered waistor shortened to waist length. The width of Jeongori was suitable, because side-seam line was straight or oblique as it comes into inner line. The width of Git was enough and Mokpan-git (shape of board) and Kal-kit (shape of knife) appeared, and sometimes used other color fabric. Sleeve was narrow and ostly folded up. Chima (Korean traditional skirt) used darker color fabric than Jeogori and the width of Chima was narrow and its length was short. Sokbaji (Korean traditional underpants) shown below were narrow and its end narrower. They were barefoot or they wore Hye (Korean traditional shoes) after putting on Beoseon (Korean traditional socks). Secondly general man's hair tie a topknot (sangtu) and put on headdres, 'Bang-lip', 'Mang-geon', hairband, 'Tang-geon' on head. The length of Jeogori became shorter from the line which covered hip to the line which covered waist. The width of Jeogori was suitable and sometimes it had a slit of side-seam line. The width of Git (neckand) was wide and the length of Git was long. 'Kal-git'appeared and it used other color fabric. The shape of sleeve was straight and narrow. They folded up their sleeves. They folded up their sleeves. They folded up their slack that look like 'Jam-bang-i'and the width of slacks was not suitable, and it was narrow. Baji (Korean traditional pants) were with or without knot, worn 'Hangjeon'(ankle band). They were barefoot and wore 'Hye'or 'Jipsin'(Korean traditional straw shoes). Thirdly a person of high birth or a low-ranked official put 'Yu-geon', 'Mang-geon', 'Gat', 'Tang-geon', 'Bok-du', 'Bok-geon', 'Whi-hang'on their head on a topknot. They wore 'Po (Shim-ui, Jick-ryeong'Jung-chi-mak, Do-po, etc)'on Baji and Jeogori. 'Po'was long and wide, it knot with 'Se-jo-dae'(string belt) or 'Po-baek-dae'(band belt). It had a slit of sideline and 'Mu'which had or had not or which were hard to confirm. The shape of sleeve was straight or very wide and its length was long. The width of Baji was wide and knotted with 'Hangjeon'and wore'Beoseon'and 'Hye'. Fourthly child's hair was short or knotted to the back of the head. The length of Jeogori reached waist line and its width was wide. It had a 'Jeogori'which had s slit of sideline. The shape of sleeve was 'Tong-su'(straight), and the length of sleeve was diverse. They put 'Baeja'on 'Jeogori'. The width of Baji was not wide. They wore them straight without or with knot, 'Hangjeon'. They were barefoot or put on 'Jipsin'.
Somatometric Classification on the Lower Body of Early Elementary Schoolgirls
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 8, issue 6, 2000, Pages 930~939
This study was done to provide the fundamental data for scientific and rational children's clothing sizing system by investigating their somatometric characteristics and classifying somatotypes. The subjects were 269 elementary schoolgirls aged from 7 to 8 years old living in Pusan and Kyungsangnam-do. Data from each girl comprises 28 anthropometic measurments and 4 photographic measurments, related to the lower half of body. To analyze somatotypes of the lower half of body, factor analysis, cluster analysis, discriminant analysis were performed for statistical analysis of the data. As to the analysis to draw somatometric factors by this age group, five factors which explain 76.85% of the whole variances were extracted. The first and second factors which explain more than 60% of the whole variances represent 'horizontal size'and 'vertical size', which characterize most aspects of the body shape of the subjects. On the basis of the cluster analysis, three different lower half of body types were categorized. Type Ⅰ has biggest horizontal size, average vertical size and most protruded belly. Type Ⅱ has average degree of horizontal size, quite big vertical size and most protruded hips. Type Ⅲ has smallest horizontal and vertical size. According to the analysis to discriminate somatotypes of the lower half of body of this age group, weight and waist circumference of discriminant function 1 and abdominal circumference of discriminant function 2 have coefficient values.
Orientalism in Van Noten′s Collections : in His Late 1990s Collections
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 8, issue 6, 2000, Pages 940~948
This paper analyzed the collections of Dries Van Noten and found the influences of oriental ethnic costumes. The oriental looks which he had shown in his collections are followings : Largely, the menswear designs of Van Noten took the concept of an easy and loose style which is a common shape in oriental ethnic costumes. Especially various transformations of layered look were found in his collections. Design ideas of Van Noten's womenswear style included variations of a sarong style, a kimono style, and etc. Also in his womenswear collections, various styles of layered look were shown. He often used lustrous fabrics like satin, brocade, and damask which are driven from the oriental region. His collections had Chinese dragon-or flower-pattern, Japanese geometric pattern, and Indian henna pattern. The patterns were embroidered or gilded.
Semiotic Analysis of Jambangee's 'Nationalism'Advertisement
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 8, issue 6, 2000, Pages 949~963
Jambangee's advertisements in spring 1998 attracted public attention by the differentiating message of 'nationalism'. The purpose of this paper is to interpret Korean youth's culture of consumption, value, thought and culture expressed in these advertisements. The semiotic analytic method of F. Saussure and R. Barthe were used. Metaphor and metonymy as interpretive tools were used. Two levels of meaning, denotation and connotation were examined, and idelogies and mythologies were sought. Contrary to the most of jean advertisements which show youth, characteristic style, western life style and westernized beauty, refinement, materialism, and social differentiation, Jambangee's advertisement showed nationalism and patriotism. These advertisements criticized that preference of imported goods and ostentation of purchasing power brought crisis of economy and I.M.F. system. Jambangee's jeans symbolized as the meaning of nationalism and patriotism were suggested as a way to save our country. Jambangee's advertisements are meaningful. Because we had accepted western fashion passively so far, but for the first time Jambangee applied Korean design elements to jeans and gave new meanings to them through the 'nationalism'campaign.