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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 9, Issue 6 - Dec 2001
Volume 9, Issue 5 - Oct 2001
Volume 9, Issue 4 - Aug 2001
Volume 9, Issue 3 - Jun 2001
Volume 9, Issue 2 - Apr 2001
Volume 9, Issue 1 - Feb 2001
Selecting the target year
A Study on the Significance of the Costume with Khadi Campaign
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 9, issue 1, 2001, Pages 1~10
This study is to reconsider the symbolic potential of the costume by investigating the role of cloth in Indian culture, noting the fact that Indians wore hand-woven cloth and adopted a flag with the spinning wheel in the center as part of their nationalistic programs for independence. The results are as follows; The Indian cotton industry had held the fist position in the world and spinning and weaving had been an Indian national industry until the early part of the 19th century. As for the Indian cotton industry under the rule of Britain, Indian was reduced to being a colony producing raw materials and a market of cheap British finished goods, and eventually fell into anarchy with economic poverty of the general public and peasants'uprising mixed with the complaint of the intellectuals. The Indian National Movement started as a resort to escape the British rule because of continuous poverty and social exhaustion, and its pivot was Gandhi. Gandhi launched a revolutionary noncooperation movement in Indian society with diverse races, religions and castes, and developed nation-wide campaigns such as Boycott, Swadeshi, the encouragement of spinning wheels, etc. Gandhi urged that Indians' weak identity and poverty were caused by the dissolution of their native craft and that the Indians should wear Indian products for economic independence. Accordingly, leaders of Indian National Congress regarded a spinning wheel as an economic necessity and national symbol, and approved manual spinning and weaving as part of their nationalistic programs in order to drew the general public to the nationalistic movement in 1920. They also decided that all Congressmen should wear hand-woven cloth, Khadi, and adopted spinning wheels as the logo type of Indian National Congress. Khadi, Indian national cloth, was a symbol of national unification, freedom and equality, and also a means of economic self-sufficiency, Swadeshi, and eventually led India to autonomy, Swaraji. Therefore, it can be concluded that the cloth converted Indias economic and political identity.
A Study on the Poor Breast Shapes for 20s a Women
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 9, issue 1, 2001, Pages 11~18
The purpose of this study is to survey women′s poor breast shapes depending on their ages and breast types, and thereupon, analyze the differences and correlations among them, and thereby, provide for some basic data useful to the development of the comfortable brassiere which can serve to correct the poor breast. 1. As a result of categorizing the types of schematic breast sides, "type 1" was characterized by medium lower part, greatest pro trusion of breast itself, volumed upper part and visible breast outside, while "type 2" be characterized by medium lower part, most flatness, poor upper part, smallest outside size and medium outside, and "type 3" was characterized by least poor lower part, medium protrusion of breast, poor upper part, medium outside size , and "type 4" was characterized by poorest lower part, medium protrusion of breast, poor upper part, medium outside size and poorest outside. 2. The breast locations could be categorized depending on brest side types; "type 1" a higher location of breast than the other types, "type 2"had a lower location of breast except for the nipples thant the other types, "type 3" had the lowest location of breast and "type 4" had a comparatively low location of breast but had the highest nipples.
A Study on Aesthetical Senses of Korean Traditional Women′s Wedding Dresses
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 9, issue 1, 2001, Pages 19~32
The purpose of this study is to determine aesthetical characteristics of the Korean traditional wedding dress for women by analyzing such dresses'aesthetical senses. For the purpose, the study showed four types of the dress, jukyee, whalot, weonsam and private weonsam and their photographed stimuli to subjects and then obtained data using the seven scale measures of meaning differentiation consisting of 25 pairs of adjective words. Results of the study are described as follows; Aesthetical senses shown in the Korean traditional dressing dress for women included six factors in total, among which attractiveness was found as the main factor, followed by chastity. For the four types of the dress, whalot adpated revelation as its main factor while the remaining three types, or jukyee, weonsam and private weonsam were found having dignity as their main factors. Adjective words which largely accounted for aesthetical senses included uncomfortable, warn, chaste, intellectual, bright, unique, regular, luxurious, classical, ornamental and beautiful suggesting that the Korean traditional wedding dress for women is somewhat unfunctional, but high in attractiveness and aesthetic beauty and has a better classical harmonization of dignity and revelation. Aesthetical senses were most different according to nationality(Korean and Japan) when they were analyzed in terms of nationality, gender and whether of specialization or non-specialization. Japanese people had unique and interesting senses while Korean people, chaste, calm and delicate aesthetical senses. According to gender, men revealed free senses and women, classical ones. According whether of specialization or non-specialization those who specialized in a related field had more unique, straight, regular, luxurious and interesting aesthetical senses that those who did not specialize.
A Study on the Sleeve Cap Ease of Leather Garment
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 9, issue 1, 2001, Pages 33~43
In this study, both kinds of materials, that is, leather and woolen fabrics, which have similar thickness, have been adopted. To determine proper length of ease, not only sleeve cap height but also sleeve width has been adjusted mainly based on 5cm length of the ease, which follows maximum sleeve cap height, and then different length of ease, for example, 4cm, 3cm, 2cm and 1cm of ease, have been made. As a result, eighteen kinds in total of sleeves have been made: In other words, each nine kinds of both leather and woolen fabrics have different ease lengths. In addition, each sleeve has been inspected visually and functionally. Following conclusion has been gotten based on outcome of the study: 1. Proper ease length for manufacture of leather garment is said to be 1∼2 cm. As a result, ease length with higher sleeve cap height shall be 1∼2cm, while the length with lower sleeve cap height shall be 1cm or less. 2. Wider sleeve width has better function. Considering relations with sleeve cap height, sleeve width shall exceed +4cm of bicep line. 3. to satisfy a variety of those conditions while manufacturing leather garment, sleeve cap height, which is used for the manufacture of full dress and street wear garment, To lessen the ease length, body A.H shall be relatively loose under the arms, or pad shall be supplemented on the shoulder, so that the difference had better be lessened to solve such problems.
A Research on Purchase Behavior and Fit of Men′s Ready-made Suit for Koran Adult Men
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 9, issue 1, 2001, Pages 45~60
The purpose of this research is to offer basic data for the study of men's suit by investigating purchase behavior and fit of men's ready-made suit for Koran adult men. The subjects were male who aged 25∼39 and resided in Seoul, Kyunggi and Chungnam regions. The results of the research are summarized as the following : 1. Male consumers purchase suit most frequency at department, specially stores. As the consumers grow older dependency on their spouses'opinion for purchase decision increases. The standards of purchasing are stated to e design, price and color. 2. the male consumers are generally knowledgeable about the current sizing system. Yet, the knowledge is confused with the pst and present systems. 3. When the male consumers purchase, they consider mainly for the fit of th d\\body part are shoulders for the jacket and waist, hip for the pants. 4. The attitude to toward the combination of sizes for the jacket is comparatively satisfaction than pants. Specially, most negative part of jacket is the length of sleeve.
A Study on the Culture and Clothing Behavior of Chunghahk Village
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 9, issue 1, 2001, Pages 61~72
Chunghahk-dong is located in a retired spot, Jiri Mountain and has been built up its won religion and culture without any exchange outside world. People in Chunghahk-dong believe in a religion called Genjungyutaosim. Forming a trinity on which mind is Taoism, body is Buddhism, and behavior is confucianism. These are the principle elements to form a village. They made their own unique cultural factor such as longhaired boys and girls, wearing traditional cloths and hat, a monastic life, folk mores and family rituals, and private school system. This shows a great deal of affection on their life style and organization and is closely connected with community and culture. Grasping a culture and behavior on clothing, it has propose to understand Chunghahk-dong properly according to this study. A method of study has a purpose to understand culture and clothing behavior precisely in Chunghahk-dong. I inquire ito clothing behavior with investigation and study of picture script. The results are as followed; People in Chunghahk-dong show unique clothing and hair style behavior based on Genjungyutao. First, men and women wear a white cloth called HanBok(Korean costume) and footwear made of rubber. Only men wear a blue vest. A grown up men wear a long coat when they go out. They are dressed in tractional cloth for a ceremonial occasion. The reason why they put on the HanBok(Korean costume) is a belief on our traditional cloth becomes a standard dress in the future. They believe Korea becomes a standard dress in the future. They believe Korea becomes a standard dress in the future. They believe Korea become a leading country in the world. This clothing behavior is symbol of Genjungyutao and has a role of delivery system for expressing their split. Second, In sign of being a Genjungyutao men, they let their grow hair. Cutting hair is not to be a Genjungyutao men any more. There is few reason that people in Chunghahk-dong let grow their hair : First, because of importance in TanGun's ideology, they believe Korea is a first nation in the world and can't cut their hair which has grown from TanGun (The founding father of the Koran nation) Chosun traditionally. Second, Cutting their hair runs counter to the principle of nature. Third, They value their body for confucianism. They don't want to damage their body because of body from their parents. Boys and girls braid and tie up their hair and adult tie a topknot and a chignon. Wearing a YouGun(A horsehair skullcap) at home and Kat(A Korean top hat) when going out, they express as a Genjungyutao. Hemp cloth and synthetic fibers are main clothes. Also, they wear an improved HanBok(Korean costume) these days on influence outside.
The Aspect of Mannequins Expression with Changes of the Modern Fashion
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 9, issue 1, 2001, Pages 73~85
The human body is a subject to represent one's thoughts and feelings more easily. Historically, the women's body has become a implement to express an ideal of beauty with the changes of the times and it has created some ideal boy by various means.We have been influenced consciously or unconsciously by the ideal body made artificially. As fashion dolls and mannequins came out with various style in he 19th century, the fashion and the ideal body of those days were expressed completely. In the 20th century, it took as a matter of course that commercialization of fashion made persue the ideal body, so mannequin as a transmitter of esthetic presentation were used to express the ideal body. Mannequin is a implement to express an ideal body of that times, because mannequin, when it is made, is exactly embodied fashionable images of that times which include a ratio of the human bodys curve, a pose, an ample bosom, a fashionable dress and so on. This study considers changes of the ideal body and the fashionable clothes in each generation from the 1920's to the present time, and, on the basis of this, the correlation of the ideal body with the form of mannequins. And this study examines what kind of mannequins, that is, realistic mannequin, sculpture mannequin, and abstract mannequin.
A Study on Apparel Store Browsers′ Browsing Motives, Shopping Leadership and Preferred Store Attributes
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 9, issue 1, 2001, Pages 86~99
The purpose of this study was to identify and profile store browsers in terms of their browsing motives, fashion behavioral characteristics, buying behavior and preferred store attributes. The data were collected through questionnaire from 302 female college students by convenient sampling method. Statistical analysis of factor analysis, x²-test, and t-test were performed in analyzing the data. The browsing motives of browsers were to obtains fashion information, sensory stimulation and diversion from routine life. They showed the high level of fashion involvement, shopping confidence, shopping innovativeness, shopping opinion leadership as well s fashion opinion leadership. Browsers tended to be impulse buyers and spent more money on clothing than non-browsers. The attributes that influence their store choice were the variety of products and brands, information availability ,and pleasant store atmosphere.
Internet Usage for the Implementation of Quick Response as Supply Chain Management across Business-to-Business Electronic Commerce in Textile and Apparel Industry
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 9, issue 1, 2001, Pages 100~110
The purpose of this study is to identify Internet usage for the implementation of Quick Response Supply Chain Management across Business-to-Business Electronic Commerce in textile and apparel industry. This paper involves theoretical studies, which developed 3 steps to analyze the relationship of B-to-B EC, SCM, and QR, and provides broader awareness of new trend in the textile and apparel industry. SCM as one of B-to-B EC solutions introduced QR into the textile and apparel industry in 1985, and B-to-B EC is regarded as a means for achievement of QR with the widespread adoption of Internet technologies by businesses over the last four years. Finally, the Internet enables textile and apparel firms to access international networks of suppliers, distributors, and customers, so Internet-based B-to-B EC, SCM, and QR with Internet/EDI and XML/EDI are expected to become a central part in propelling fashion business into new directions.
A Study on Experimental Clothing of the Early 20th Century Italian Artists
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 9, issue 1, 2001, Pages 111~126
This study concentrates on the relationship between the early 20th century italian artists and their works in the field of clothing design. They advocated the creation of art for life and introduced a new type of work of art which I will call 'experimental clothing for art'. The experimental clothing for art showed its dynamic characteristics in the field s of line and form, color, pattern, and material. The Italian artists made simple and functionalistic dresses, using asymmetric, geometric cuts. in pattern making. They employed dynamic patterns in textile design and favored brilliant colors which they debunked as storage and traditional. With regard to material, they used unusual materials such as metal, net, wire, and paper and inexpensive materials. To investigations of the visual expression of experimental clothing for art in Italy have led us to the internal expressions which are avant-garde, dynamic & speed, functionality & popularity, ephemeral & transformable, and warlike. As a result of the reflection of the times and the artists's will and roles the experimental clothing for art in Italy implicated contemporary clothing in the early twentieth century and it was only laboratory art that underwent various experiments in canvas but a model of efforts for the at of living, which was anti-traditional. It offered a new future and created a new environment. It is left for future research how the experimental clothing for art developed in countries other than Italian.
A Study on the Style of Textile Pattern Design Identifying Italian Fashion Brand
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 9, issue 1, 2001, Pages 127~140
The purpose of this study is to examine the effect of the style of textile pattern design on the process of building the fashion brand identity. In so doing, the study analyzes the color, style, and layout of the motive, and the drawings of the patter of textile of top seven Italian fashion brands which present in presented eight fashion design collections during the 1997∼2000 period. The results of the analysis show that the seven brands exhibit their unique characteristics of the color, style, and layout of the motive, and the drawings of the pattern of textile. The results can be interpreted in a way that their distinct features oft textile pattern design indeed contribute toward the establishment of their unique brand image and brand identity. The results of this study suggests that to initiate the top fashion brand, the fashion industry should develop its own unique style of textile pattern design.
Pluralism in Paco Rabanne′s Works
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 9, issue 1, 2001, Pages 141~153
In the midst of rapid cultural and artistic changes with the turn of the century, postmodernism is exerting great influence on the value and trends of arts. many artists are making utmost efforts in order to overcome ambiguity and confusion caused by these changes. Analysis of the works and philosophy of prominent fashion designers provides insight into the influence of postmodernism to the creation of modern arts including fashion. This paper attempts to explore how pluralism, one o the most important features of postmodernism, has given impacted to the modern fashion design. fashion trend and works of Paco Rabanne were reviewed with particular emphasis on pluralistic expressions in his fashion creation. it was found that Paco Rabanne's diversified and innovative use of materials and design methods were possible due to the influence of pluralism. It is anticipated that this trend will e observed in the various forms of arts wit the further analysis of fashion designers and artists.
A Study on Anti-Design and Italian Radical Fashion
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 9, issue 1, 2001, Pages 154~168
This study is intended to understand an implication and significant of anti-design and Italian radical fashion. Anti-design and radicalism is the main stream or origin and essence of post-modernism which hs been swaying our society at large through modern culture, economy, art, fashion etc, from the latter part of 1960s. In this paper, the author classified the italian radical fashion with the Archizoom, the Alchymia, the memphis fashion. In post-modernism fashion, radical fashion design of the Archizoom, Alchymia and Memphis group is in part a menifesto and in part a noncanonical history of the most progressive and heretical experiments of the world of fashion. Anti-designers of Italy call for a theory an practive in which the old methods and instruments and the old commendments of modernism are banished. They looked on fashion as material culture, a creative field with its own independent foundation and endowed with its own strong artistic intuition. IF radical design is dead, the energy it has stirred up is still alive nd kicking. One of the most progressive and well-informed culture milieus in Milian, seved as a point of reference for the vanguard of fashion.