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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 9, Issue 6 - Dec 2001
Volume 9, Issue 5 - Oct 2001
Volume 9, Issue 4 - Aug 2001
Volume 9, Issue 3 - Jun 2001
Volume 9, Issue 2 - Apr 2001
Volume 9, Issue 1 - Feb 2001
Selecting the target year
Study Theme and Tendency Analysis of Clothing Construction
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 9, issue 2, 2001, Pages 175~187
The purpose of this study is to recognize the real situation of clothing construction to present the desirable direction to establish more scientific and reasonable themes of the study by analysis of the tendency of the clothing construction study. For this purpose, 402 papers on the theme of clothing construction study were excepted from the first issues to the issues of December in 1999 of Journal of Korea Society of Clothing and Textile, Journal of Korea Home Economics, Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, Research Journal of the Costume Culture, Journal of the Korean Fiber Society, and Journal of the Human Engineering Society of Korea. I analyzed and classified the theme into eight issues of design related clothing construction, study of body types, study of patterns, size of apparel, fitting of clothing, protective clothing and functional clothing, sewing, and the clothes. The result of the study is follows. 1. The distribution tendency of the clothing construction study by the journal of each society showed that journal of Korean Home Economic is 22.9%, Journal of Korea Society of Clothing and Textiles 17.3%, Research Journal of the Costume Culture 12.2%, and Journal of the Korean Society of Costume 6.2%. 2. The distribution tendency of the studying issues showed hat study of body types of 29.4%, study of patterns21.9%, fitting of clothing 11.7%, sewing 10.2%, size of apparel 8.5%, and others 7%, protective clothing and functional clothing 6.7%, and design related clothing construction 4.7%. Considering the above result. we can understand that study of body types and patterns are being studied most actively. 3. Regarding the study tendency by academic issues showed that study of construction elements and design application is chiefly centered of the study of design related clothing construction (35.5%), analysis of body types is centered of the study of body, type(46/6%), CAD is centered of the study of patterns (31.1%), and size spec for the ready made patterns is centered of the study of size of apparel(32.4%). As for fitting of clothing, the study was performed in two ways on the changes of he surfaces of human bodies in motion and the functional features of experimental dressing. Regarding the study of sewing study of fusible interlining was mainly performed (36.6%) and regarding the study of protective clothing and functional clothing, study of brassieres and underwear was chiefly performed.
A Study on Happie Fashion in 1990′s
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 9, issue 2, 2001, Pages 188~206
In 1990's, many collections, showing trends of restoration, took the hippie fashion as their main theme. Therefore, this study investigates the aspects of the hippie trend focusing on style, materials, colors shown in Mlan Collection, New York Collection, London Collection, Paris Collection, Tokyo Woman's Collection, and street fashions. 1. In style, the collections and street fashions exhibited layered look. 2. In materials, natural fibers were preferred s in 1960's . 3. In colors, natural hues such as black, white, and brown were primarily used, whereas vivid colors were used as accent. 4. In patterns, floral patterns were most extensively used as the flower is the symbol of Hippie. Animal patterns were also used. 5. In accessories, the Indian bred, a symbolic accessory of Hippie, was used with various materials. The hippie fashion in 1990's appeared not s a total fashion, but as an ancillary associate has the role of accentuation like hair-style, make-up, acessaries, etc.
The Theory of Review on Chulik
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 9, issue 2, 2001, Pages 207~222
This study investigates the chulik of Soo Buen's, Heymjo Kim's, Sooncheon Kim's grave in early Chosun Dynasty. The purpose of this study is to revise concretely the relation to Mongolian costume, Zilsun and Chulik, of the distintion of sex to wearer. This paper reviews the general construction form the excavated graves of them. This paper finds that there exist different Chulik forms according to the ratios between upper portion and lower portion in Early Chosun Dynasty. Eventhough they were a kind of Mongolian costume, in relation to Zilsun(質孫) and Chulik(帖 ) they are different form each other. They have a lot of pleats coat( 積袍), but they are different clothes, and also, even if Chulik were excavated in womens grave, because their husbands presented them to their wives, Chuliks were not women's, and they were used for men.
A Study on the Buyers′ Decision Making Characteristics for Revitalization of Knit Industry
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 9, issue 2, 2001, Pages 223~234
The purpose of this study was to investigate the effect of demographics and general buying characteristics of knitwear consumers on their buying decision-making process. In this study, a self-administered questionnaire was distributed to young career women and female undergraduate students. of 580 questionnaires, 496 were used in the following analysis. The data was analyzed with SPSS package. T-test, one-way ANOVA and x² analysis were used to investigate the impact of characteristics of the consumers on their demographics. The high school graduate-career women group, relative to other groups, showed significant differences in practical aspects in buying knitwear. Second, the knitwear buying places of consumers were significantly different depending on the demographics and general buying characteristics of knitwear. The higher annual knitwear buying expenses and the lower knitwear buying frequency, the more a consumer shopped in department stores. Third, the knitwear satisfaction level of consumers was significantly different depending on their demographics and general buying characteristics of knitwear. career women relative to female undergraduate students showed significant differences in satisfaction with design, quality and yarns.
A Study on Costume Reported in the "Maeil Shinmun" (III) - Focused on Accessories, Skin Care and Hair Style -
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 9, issue 2, 2001, Pages 235~249
This study the changing aspects in accessories, skin care and hair style in 「Maeil Shinmun」 from Jan. 1, 1946 to Dec. 31, 2000, and the results are as follows. In the period of 1946 to 1959, articles were about how to select accessories and the role of skin-protection cosmetics for skin care, and the cases of people wearing color makeup in pursuit of beauty increased. The hairstyle trend began to gradually shift from long hair toward short. During the time of 1960 to 1969, how to select accessories an also how to match them with clothes were dealt with in articles, and how to massage face or use pack for healthy skin was introduce. From 1970 to 1979, as the number of working women increased, proper use of accessories according to each occasion was introduced, and, for hairstyle, the way to keep their hair healthy and shine, rather than a fashion of its style itself, was emphasized. In 1980∼1989, as casual wear became so popular worldwide and a variety of way to use shoes, mufflers, scarfs, shawls, and hats to go with it were highlighted, practical fashion got in vogue and use of accessories with which individuality can be expressed in a simple way prevailed. During the time of1990 to 2000, the trend changed to the pursuit of chic using accessories that reveal wearers'individuality, and especially came the boom of charming schools and makeup lesson for skin care. The prominent trend was that men and women of the new generation expressed their individuality by having their hair partly dyed or fully dyed in various colors and tried to resemble famous entertainers. In particular, as people get more and more interested in body shape, various ways to take care of body were introduced, such as body care products and aroma treatments.
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 9, issue 2, 2001, Pages 250~258
The objective of this study was to trace and to identify the meaning of jeobli接籬. This word is found as one of the early costume terminologies of China. later the jeobli was introduced to Koguryo. The jeobli of China and Koguryo were included in this study. Sources of information for this research were collected from the written records including visual information from ancient paintings and tumb paintings as well as figurins. The results of important findings and conclusions of this study can be summerized as follows: It was found that the jeobli 接籬 was synonymous with the cheobli 睫離. Also it appeared that it was called baikrosa. It revealed that the word jeobli had different meanings. first, ti was the name of a white hat which was worn by the people of Chin dynasty. It was a white felt hat made of white great plumes and feathers. Second, it was a dialect for maqna, a kind of a veil which was worn by the women of the Northern dynasty. That, it meant the chaikkun, a kind of knot coverings. The jeobli, a kind of a white felt hat, was also used by the people of Koguryo. The jeobli of Koguryo was made of the pig hair from Malgal. It is considered that he shape of this white hat seems to be a kind of conical hat. Also, it was fond that the jeobli as the meaning of chaik kun was worn by the people of Kogure. it was a small white square hat. It was worn by the nobles.
A Study on the Symbolism of Costumes Appeared in Aflred Hitchcock′s Film
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 9, issue 2, 2001, Pages 259~276
Hitchcock, "a master of the thriller" "leading figure of thriller", was famous for his work style. He never starts filming until completing a perfect conception in his mind before shooting. He started filming after getting a perfect filming plan adding a picture even one detailed shot picture. Also the movie costumes was not an exception in his movie. He put more main object to express a symbolic meanings by recreating movie costumes which were fit to drama′s subject than function which spoke for contemporary popularity also he guides actors to put on the movie costumes examined previously to shape a definite visual character in that works. This research intends not only to look into symbolic and expressive means of dresses through the movie costumes on thriller appeared in Hitchcock′s movie, but also the comprehension width by grasping importance of the movie-costume and dress image in the movie. Hitchock made about 55 movies, mostly thriller movies, from Number 13(1922) n unfinished work to family plot(1976) ones posthumous work. This research examined his the second half of term works(after 1950) such s Rear Window(1954), Vertigo(1958), Psycho(1960), Torn Curtain(19660, Topaz(1969) and Frenzy(1972) which are generally familiar to the public. In conclusion, we can find that the thriller movie costumes as well s the other movie and appeared a character of the film′s characters, social rank, economic level, personality. But expecially, a costume of Hitchcock′s thriller movie can be contained a characteristic factor of a kind of five.
A Study on the Symbolistic Characteristics of Costume -on Modern Costume(1880~1910s) and Contemporary Costume(1990s)-
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 9, issue 2, 2001, Pages 277~294
The purpose of this study is to examine characteristics of symbolism as an important trend of the end of centuries, by comparing the symbolic characteristics from two periods, modern(1880∼1910s) and comtemporary(1990s), based on the typical characteristics of symbolic art by Robert R. Delevoy. Af for the study method, the contents analysis is adopted to present an objective data analysis and interpretation accompanied by theoretical approach through literature survey. Delevoy classifies symbolism into three categories such as mysticism, eroticism, and decorativeness. This study is developed based on the Delevoy's three categories. symbolistic costume reflecting systems of the society and the phases of the times, became to contain all aspects of functional, symbolic, and practical. Especially, the costume I contemporary era adopted a new approach, philosophical factors controling human's sensibility, and a sincere and analytical attitude on progress of technology. This study provide the fact that costume is a part to create aesthetic of self-expression as a field of formative art. Contemporary costume allows vital power for daily life of human by pursuing new aesthetic value, and it expresses inner world of human and moves on future-oriented to regain humanity. The symbolistic characteristics will continue to influence varous aspects of our society and play a main role in shaping the purpose of fashion design in the 21st century.
A Effect of Sociocultural Environment on the Vicissitudes of Headgear -Focused on 19th Century in Europe-
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 9, issue 2, 2001, Pages 295~307
This study was investigated to a effect of sociocultural environment on the vicissitudes of headgear in Europe on 19th Century. Form of headgear was increasingly more functional and simple. It was needed various items with various usage. Since Industrial Revolution the french Revolution. A diffusion of sport and increase of leisure time gave rise to entrance of mass headgear with reasonability and simplicity. But female headgear was more decorative than males. Until late 19th century when female has participated in social performance, female headgear was not functional and simple form. More often female took male headgear(fedora, straw boater, cap, tc.) than bonnet when female role-awareness was changed and sport is diffused.
A Study on Adult Men′s Color-Preference and Color Interest in Clothing -Focusing on Age, personality and Skin Color-
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 9, issue 2, 2001, Pages 308~318
The purpose of this study is to investigate the clothing interest, the preference for clothing color, in men of their 20s and 30's. The data were obtained from questionnaires completed by 546 men in their 20's and 30s. The SPSS package was used for data analysis which includs factor analysis, t-test, x²-test, Scheffe test, and Cronbach's α to measure the reliability. This study shows the following results. 1. The interest for clothing color was related to individual factors. (age, marriage status, personality). 2. men in their 20's and 30's preferred neutral color, blue, yellow. 3. Men in their 20s and 30s liked monochromatic match in clothing color. 4. The preference for clothing color were appeared to be influenced by the age, personality, skin color.
The Variation and Classification of Somatotype of Female Students Aged from 12 to 18 in Their Growth Period(Part I)
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 9, issue 2, 2001, Pages 319~332
This study attempts to measure body sizes and somatotypes of 844 female middle and high students girls in their growth period and to investigate characteristics of each of the measured somatotypes. The data used for this study were 50 items of body sizes obtained from anthropometric measurements. The purposes of the study are as follows: 1. to analyze physical characteristics according to age. 2. to extract factors of somatotypes using factor analyses. 3. to classify somatotypes according to physical characteristics using cluster analyses. The study results were as follows: 1. TH anthropometric measurements indicated that three existed collective patterns of somatotypes across Group I(12∼13 years old), Group II(14∼15 years old), and Group III(16∼18 years old). 2. Through factor analyses, 6 factors were yielded from each age group. The cumulative proportions of these factors were 77% for Group I, 75% for Group II, and 72% for Group III. Factor I indicates a horizontal size factor and Factor 2 indicates a vertical size factor. 3. Group I and Group II ere classified into 5 types and Group III was classified as 3 types. In Group I, middle height and a little slim types were most prevalent(28%). In Group II, low height and very slim types were most prevalent(28.9%). Finally, In Group III, low height and slim types were most prevalent(4.6%)