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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 9, Issue 6 - Dec 2001
Volume 9, Issue 5 - Oct 2001
Volume 9, Issue 4 - Aug 2001
Volume 9, Issue 3 - Jun 2001
Volume 9, Issue 2 - Apr 2001
Volume 9, Issue 1 - Feb 2001
Selecting the target year
A Study on CATV Home Shopping of Apparel and Life Style
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 9, issue 3, 2001, Pages 343~356
The purpose of this was to classify consumer groups according to the life styles and analyze buying intention and evaluation criteria of apparel product, opinion to 4p\`s aspect among consumer groups. And it was to clarify relationships between the experience of CATV home shopping and buying intention and evaluation criteria of apparel product, opinion to 4p\`s aspect. The subjects of this study were 270 women living in Chonbuk and Chonnam regardless their experience in CATV home shopping. For data analysis, frequency, percentage, mean, t-test, factor analysis were conducted. The results were as follows; First, the type of life style were classified into the following subdivisions: products confirmed type, price-quality regarded type, time regarded type, new product regarded type. Second, the significant differences among the classified life style groups were found in buying intention, evaluation criteria of apparel product, and opinion to 4p\`s aspect. Third, there were significant differences in buying intention, evaluation criteria of apparel product, and opinion to 4p\`s aspect according to TV home shopping experience.
A Study on The Conditions of The Department Stores in Seoul -Emphasis on the Layout of the Fashion Zone and Brands-
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 9, issue 3, 2001, Pages 357~374
This study analyzed the trends of fashion market in 15 branch stores of 3 major department stores in Seoul. The purposes of this study were to classify fashion zone and brands in each floor of the department stores, and to analyze the rate which a fashion brand was located department store. The results were as follows : 1. There were sundry goods on main floor, women\`s clothings on 2-4th floor, sports & golf wears and infants & children\`s clothings from 6th floor to the top in most department stores. 2. Lotte Chamshil branch had the largest number of fashion brands in it, the nest was Lotte Main store and followed by Hyundai Chunhoe branch, Shinsegae Gangnam branch, Hunndai Shinchun branch, Lotte Gangnam branch, Hyundai Main store, Hyundai Muyeuk-Center branch, and Lotte Youngdeungpo branch, etc. 3. The fashion categories of the Lotte Department stores were segmented as the Casuals (character, young, young basic, career, town, jean, city), Young worlds, Imported beautique, Madams, Designers(beautique), Intelligences, Unisex, Ladies formal wears, the Seasonables, and the Formals, Missy Careers. This was the most various fashion market segments among 3 major department stores. This store had 667 Women\`s fashion and Casual brands. The Chamshil branch and Main store were intensified the Casual & sundry goods on 5th floor. 4. The fashion categories of the Hundai Department stores were segmented as Women\`s wears, Women\`s casuals, Young-Adult, Young live, Women\`s former wears, Royal beautique and Young characters. It was less segmented than other Department stores. Total number of Women\`s fashion and casual brands were 471 brands. The market segmentation of fashion zone was well done at Chunho branch and Shinchun branch. It was intensified that Fashion sundry goods at Muyeuk-Center branch and The Women and Young fashion zone at Chunho branch. 5. The fashion categories of the Shinsaegae Department stores were segmented as Casuals (young, young character, X-, missy, career, character), Imported beautique, Designer\`s characters, Young basics, Elegance, Missy, Young weave, Original brands. This store had 304 Women\`s fashion and Casual brands. Shinsaegae has also developed it\`s own brand(PB items) and classified as the Original zone which differentiated it from other Departments. 6. The Deco was the most popular brand in the department stores, the next were Micha/Botticelli, and followed by Darks/System/lzzat Baba, Givy/Obzee/Lee won jae/Kim yeon Joo, and so on. The target of 6 out of 10 brands which were included in here were career women of age 20 to 30 ages. The price rate were from 200,000 won to 300,000 won.
A Study on the Changes of Appearances and Contents of Underclothes Advertisements
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 9, issue 3, 2001, Pages 375~388
This study looks into the appearances and contents of undercloths advertisements by analyzing them appeared in women\`s magazines of Korea, which are
published between 1965 and 1999 mainly targeting the women at the age of 20s through 40s. This study leads to the following conclusions : 1. Most of advertisements use 1 or 2 pages of the magazines with colored pictures. 2. The most frequently advertised underclothes is brassieres and white and pastel are dominant colors. Also, spandex and cotton are the most frequently appeared fabrics in the advertisement. 3. Professional Korean female models in twenties are the most favored choice for those underclothes advertisements and those models dominantly face their fore part with showing the body parts higher than their knees. Solo model appear in most of the advertisements and independent appearance is dominant. 4. In the visual expression of the advertisements explicitly show the products for visual expression, whereas verbal expressions mostly emphasize the benefits to be obtained from the underclothes advertised. 5. Advertisement appeals are mainly base on readers\` reason rather than sensibility.
A Study on Consumers\` Preference and Purching Intention of Easy-Order Business Suit
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 9, issue 3, 2001, Pages 389~397
The purpose of this study is to examine the growth potentiality of the Easy-Order System in the domestic male business suit market. This study is based on a questionnaire survey of males, who usually wear a business suit in the work place, and females whose husband wear a business suit. The pertinently answered 108 questionnaires (males: 72 and females: 36) were analyzed with SPSS 8.0. The results of this survey were as follows; 1. Gender, occupation, and height of consumers had a considerable effect on their on their intention of purchasing a preference of this system. 2. Subjects, who were dissatisfied with the limited option of purching a business suit in retail shops, had a significant intention of purchasing a business suit through the Easy-Order System. 3. It had no effect on consumers\\` preference and purching intention of the Easy-Order System whether or not they recognize this system. And the Easy-Order System is not estimated to have major repercussions over consumers by now.
A Study on the Western Shroud of Culture
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 9, issue 3, 2001, Pages 398~411
Funeral rites relate to the last ceremonies involving the process of human beings moving from this world to the other world, becoming part of a life which remarkably reflects the world after death. They can be said to be the best culture created by the conception of death. The ceremonies of mourning, or ubiquitius folk phenomena of all the ages from the ancient times to modern times, represent the mass belief of each nation in spiritual worlds as well as the feelings of individuals facing death. In so far as their methods are concerned, the ceremonies vary in accordance with ages, nations, regions and culture. The practices of today\`s funeral rites conducted in the West have been formed and changed throughout its long history. Now that the ceremonies are a combination of complicated cultures, they serve as an important tool for inquiring into the spiritual life of the people of an age in question and the pictures of the society concerned. Therefore this paper is designed to look into the culture of shrouds showing respect for the dead in the West. With the view of examining death, and grave clothes for them, but also with the spiritual culture of human beings in relation to death represented in their pictures. I resort to literature and materials related to the shrouds of the dead which appeared in a period from the Medieval Age to the 19th century.
The Analysis of ‘Fashion’ Category Structure in the Internet Search Engines
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 9, issue 3, 2001, Pages 412~432
Internet search engines are used by the majority of find information on the Web. However, Web users can be often dissatisfied with the mistakes in the retrieval of ‘Fashion’ information from the Internet. The purpose of this study is to analyze the ‘Fashion’ category structure in the Internet search engines. There are 2 steps for achieving it: the first, to investigate the structures of ‘Fashion’ categories and then, to analyze the gap between ‘Fashion’ categories defined by them and extensive ‘Fashion’categories, which are approached on 2 sides of the fashion-life and fashion-business. We select 5 major search engines for the case study: Yahoo, Lycos, Naver, Hanmir, Empas, which ranked as top 5 of total search engines and potal sites in February, 2001, and retrieve ‘Fashion’ categories from the first level to the last level by using both “topics retrieval”. Eventually, we can find the problems of ‘Fashion’ category structure in search engines. Also, it is concluded with a brief perspective of ‘Fashion’ categories in the Internet search engines and the implications for the future.
A Study on Ease for the Skirt of Stretch Fabric according to the Body Types(I)
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 9, issue 3, 2001, Pages 433~446
Recently, according to changes in fashion trends, the importance of stretch fabric stands out. A lot of studies on non-stretch woven fabrics have been made, but few studies on stretch fabrics has been made yet. Especially, the study on ease for the patterns, according to body types, of stretch has not been made at all. The purpose of this study was to make clear reduction ratio due to the stretch ratio and to find out the ease for the patterns of stretch skirt according to standard body type to improve the aesthetics and wearing satisfaction. Therefore, fundamental data for aesthetic and functional patternmaking of the stretch skirt can be suggested. The results from the study were as follows: 1. The results from the appearance test were as follows. For the ease on waist, W+0㎝ and W-1㎝ for standard body type were suggested for the best fit. For the ease on hip, H+2㎝ and H+0㎝ for standard body type were suggested for the best wearing best fit. 2. The results from wearing satisfaction test were as follows. W+0㎝, H+2㎝ for standard body type were suggested for the best wearing satisfaction. 3. Based on the results from the above tests, the pattern reduction ratios for stretch skirt were as follows: pattern reduction ratio 3.0∼4.6% of waist, 2.1∼4.3% of hip for standard body type were suggested for the appropriate reduction ratio for stretch skirt. 4. The result from this study for stretch skirt was as follows: For standard body type, W+0㎝, W-1㎝ for waist and H+2㎝, H+0㎝ for hip were appropriate for stretch skirt pattern.
The Study of Clothing Imagery Expressed in Moliere`s PlayII-focused on Les precieuses Ridicules-
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 9, issue 3, 2001, Pages 447~457
Moliere completed classical French comedy by combining farce and commedia dell\`arte. Moliere believed that it was a plays obligation to give a lesson and entertainment. Moliere recreated commedia dell\`arte\`s typical acting patterns and characters in his work. He created with Lully comedie ballet that combined ballet and comedie for taste of Louis 14. Les precieuses ridicules critically displayed women at that time. Both contemporary high status women\`s custom and behavior were the targets of the author\`s synical criticism. There are three notable clothing imageries are shown in this work. First, Moliere used a variety of items in order to show emptiness of noble at that time. Items are ribbon and loop decorated rhingrave, feather decorated hat, perfumed wig and glove, lace covered canon and flower decorated shoes. Second, the author showed people\`s stutus through their clothes. Last, the author used clothing used clothing as a metaphor for hypocrisy. Thus when he said “take off the clothes” he meant take off hypocrisy and return truth.
A Study on the History of the Western Military Costume
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 9, issue 3, 2001, Pages 458~484
The costume originated from the idea that it could protect human beings from ferocious beasts. The military costume was from protection against an enemy equipped with weapons. Furthermore, the makers of the costume were afraid of supernatural powers and it made them devise an armour and decorate it by the concept of superstition for the purpose of overcoming it. The function of military uniform was important for increasing the protection against any enemies while they join in battle. However in harmonious time, it represented artwork of peace, dignity, and order. Since the uniform was a king of symbol to show their position, and their role. They could feel proud as a member of a military group they belong to and they gain honor, courage, patriotic sentiment through their military costume. The purpose of this study was to investigate the originality the military costume as it changed and developed continuously from ancient Egypt, Greece and Rome to modern times. This study was performed to show the comparison and characteristic marks of the past, and the influence of them on the modern military uniform. The method used in this study was using past manuscripts of the early times, information attained from domestic and foreign military documents and previously written reports. As a result, the military costume was one of many means of expression of their natural and social environment. It can be said that the most epoche-marking and powerful changes to the social environment are revolution or war. War absolutely has influenced on the changes of the changes of costume and the military armour according to the type of war and the development of weapons. Especially using the amour, the main purpose that of protecting the body has changed into distinguishing our forces from the enemy and instilling fear into enemy, Furthermore, the class who has the power has used it in order to express their power and dignity. Therefore, armour had required two rules to not only protect the body but also discriminating between classes.
Clothes Development with Human Design for Dwarf
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 9, issue 3, 2001, Pages 485~500
The purpose of this study is to develop the formal wear for social activity of dwarf. Second investigation for choices of designs based upon data from the first questionnaire investigation, led us to make proposals for design, pattern production, garment-cutting and dressmaking. The effect of wearing the made-up garments was carefully evaluated in order to establish principles for the development of clothes for dwarf. Conclusion is as follow. Dwarf felt uneasy in conventional street dress. When buying clothes their most important criteria was design wanted clothes that would help them to look taller. Analysis of design preference to complement perceived physical weak points revealed: 'a pink ensemble' comprising of a high-waist, one-piece dress, and a black slacks suit comprising of a striped, single-breasted, tailored jacket, and straight-type slacks and blouse. It was found that a bolero jacket and a high-waist, ankle-length, one-piece dress helped create an optical illusion of increased height, for both the wearer and an observer. A pastel ton-pink, one-piece also created this effect on small bodily types, as well as offering a silky, mellow attractiveness. A suit of a striped, single-breasted tailored jacket, and straight-type slacks and blouse, created the two fold illusion of disguising hip imbalance with the length of the jacket and drawing an onlooker\`s gaze to the wearer\`s face through the tailored collar, they also looked taller due to the stripes.
A Study on Apparel Textile Design Process using Adobe Illustrator 9.0-Applying Pre-Developed Korean Traditional Motifs-
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 9, issue 3, 2001, Pages 501~510
This study is focused on apparel textile design process applying pre-developed Korean traditional motifs. Since the fusion culture is in trend, Orientalism or Oriental look is the center of attraction in fashion. Under the circumstances, developing the traditional resources as sophisticated Korean-style is the goal of the BK21 team. This study makes a move to achieve the goal. As a method of accomplishing this study, 4 trendy motif samples such as stylized letter, butterfly, peony, and female face are selected after investigating fashion magazines and fashion related websites. As a result, pre-developted Korean traditional motifs are elected and revised using Adobe Illustrator 9.0. The newly revised motifs are applied to the textile pattern repeat form. The completed textile patterns are simulated on the simulated on the shawls to show their usages as one of souvenir items since the year of 2001 is the year of “Visit Korea”.
A Study on Fashion Design Applied Early 20th Century Art and Korean Factor-focusing on Casual Wear-
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 9, issue 3, 2001, Pages 511~522
Various art trends of the 20th century that contributed to the creation and development of abstract art had showed the transition from the convention of mere representation of the object to the formative sensitivity emphasizing self-expression. Noticing that such trends had influenced the fashion industry to move toward a free and individualized style, this study attempts to express the formative way from the existing art to wear, especially, based on early 20th century paintings, 5 casual wears were made which applied korean materials and silhouettes that are functional, sample and show traditional korea beauty. The purpose of this study is to search for a solution to expand the world market by producing dresses utilizing our own tradition that can be distinguished in the global market and that derive inspiration from the formative of the sensitivity of the paintings during the first half of the 20th century. It also aims to let national economy as a high-added industry. The result of this study are as follows: First, the expression method and element of various styles of art such as Fauvism, Expressionism and Cubism, during the period of transition to abstract art, clearly presented the direction toward the artistic liberation and made possible a new formative artistic expression of dress in the early years of the 20th century. Their ideas inspired the dress designers of the time with a reformative and creative sense of fashion and have greatly contributed to the development of a new era of uniqueness and individuality. Second, the color and the simplicity of form of the early 20th century paintings are suitable fro utilizing a motive of functional dresses and express unique and concise modern beauty. Third, it was confirmed that utilizing our tradition in contemporary dress can be a significant method of creation in which the uniqueness and creativity of Korean dress can be expressed, distinguishing it on the global scene, as well as inspire the originality and pride of our culture. Fourth, a possibility has been discovered. It is the functionality and uniqueness of aesthetic expression technique of the contemporary arts that can contribute to the fashion of tomorrow, by searching a modern fashion which was affected by the past and also by taking a look at the trend of modern fashion as the same field as casula wear.
A Study on the Costume Terminologies of the Chosun Period
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 9, issue 3, 2001, Pages 523~531
The objective of this study was to trace the origins of the costume terminologies and to identify the meanings of the names of costumes of the Chosun Period. Such terms as dukgai 得盖, murot gai 무롯지 or murukai 무루깨, bal 발, bigya 비갸, bium 비음, samachi 사마치, chiene 처네, chienui 薦衣 were included in this research can be summarized as follows: It appeared that similar words to dukagai were found in the languages such as the language of the arctic regions, Mongolians, English, Sumerian, and Latin. It is considered that dukgai of Chosun was related to L. toga. The word murot gai or murukai as a kind of head covering had its origins in Korean meaning to cover or to wear. Also it was found that the word bal was derived from L.palla meaning a robe, cloak or mantle. Korean bal 발 meant a dang jugori 당저고리 or dang go ui, a kind of women\`s formal outer dress. It was found that word bium or biim, a garment of Yi Chosun was similar to Ass. birmu, a garment. The word, samachi of Yi Chosun was derived from the Manchurien word samachi meaning a kind of military skirt. The word, chiene 처네 or chienui was derived from the Chinese chien (Equatopms. See Full-text) that means a skirt, a child\`s covering, a sheet, and women\`s underwear.
A Study on the Textile Terminologies of the Chosun Period
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 9, issue 3, 2001, Pages 532~536