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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Costume Culture Association
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 9, Issue 6 - Dec 2001
Volume 9, Issue 5 - Oct 2001
Volume 9, Issue 4 - Aug 2001
Volume 9, Issue 3 - Jun 2001
Volume 9, Issue 2 - Apr 2001
Volume 9, Issue 1 - Feb 2001
Selecting the target year
Development of Dress Design using Infra-Syndrome - Focusing on Design Concept of Lingeries -
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 9, issue 4, 2001, Pages 549~561
Modern fashion can be expressed as 'pursuit of cocktail effect', which means not unformed, not bounded by a rule, and mixed with various styles. Among them, the most outstanding trend of style is the'infra-syndrome'which designs underclothes like a ordinary wear, which has outstood since early 1980s. In 1990s, this syndrome made active progress and now facing 21th century, it becomes one of the big trends in fashion. Clothes of infra syndrome are one of attempts for freedom expressed by progressive designers who pursuit new and surrealistic design. The purpose of this study is to maximize the aesthetic beauty of'infra-syndrome'apparel centering on dresses of which designs are notable derived from underclothes. With the sewing techniques using the special facilities of the lingerie-manufacturing industry and making use of new material which can be used far lingerie wear, this research strives to expand new ideas in the lingerie industry as well as to contribute to promoting the dress culture by developing novel lines from a new form of dress and lingerie-foundations of dress suitable for human body.
Decision Making Process for Purchasing Children′s Clothing by the 5, 6th Graders & Their Mothers in Elementary School
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 9, issue 4, 2001, Pages 562~573
The purpose of this study was to investigate children and their mothers'purchasing behaviors for children's clothing. A self-administered questionnaire survey was conducted to 640 students(5, 6th graders) and their mothers in the elementary schools in Seoul; 517 were used for the data analysis. Most children wanted to have clothing when they feel not having proper clothing to wear. When parents purchased a clothing, female students more actively expressed her opinion than male students. The comfort was the most important criteria by children about new clothing, and children most complained of monotonous style for their clothing after using the clothing. Mothers usually bought children clothing in changing season. The most important evaluatived criterion was design. The lower level of mothers'clothing interest had less complain than other groups about children's clothing.
The Internal Deconstruction Trend Expressed in the Works of Jean Paul Gaultier
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 9, issue 4, 2001, Pages 574~591
This study reviews the concept and characteristics of the deconstruction philosophy in order to analyze the major aspects of the fashion world called the deconstruction fashion based on the deconstruction philosophy, and analyzes the works of Jean Paul Gaultier in terms of Derrida's deconstruction theory. The scope of this research is from 1980 to present, and this study fashion on the many kinds of literature on philosophy, aesthetics and literary criticism, and the domestic and international fashion journals and magazines. The deconstructionism is the philosophical theory which denies the traditionally recognized logocentric metaphysical theory and refuses the closed world and pursues the open world, opposing the dichotomic theory which is the deep-rooted tradition of the Western philosophy. The results of analyses centering on the internal deconstruction trend expressed in the works of Jean Paul Gaultier are as follows. 1 The past style combined with the present appears in the form of the entirely new trace, not the past emotion and meaning in Gaultier's works transcending the time and space. 2 Gaultier presents the unconventional intermeaning of meanings, producing various possibilities according to the wearing method of the wearer by layering several clothes. 3. Gaultier breaks from masculinity and femininity in the intertextuality of gender, and decomposes the fixed idea of men's or ladies'wear through the design sharing bisexual text. 4. In the intertextuality of T.P.O., Gaultier presents the problem of how to wear by mixing different items through obscuring the division of the nature of time, space, and purpose. Especially Gaultier can be called the first designer who, worthy of the father of the deconstructionism, has introduced in the fashion making inner wear like outer wear. 5. In the intertextuality of coordination, Gaultier presents a new perspective of coordination through free combination and contrast, raising a question about the man-made harmony criterion and deconstructing the clothes. On the other hand, Gaultier expresses the intertextuality of the material through the heterogeneous combination of the material. 6. The decomposition trend expressed in the many works of Gaultier reflects an open mind presenting a new perspective through the distortion of the form, exaggeration, and break from the existing construction method. 7. The decentering trend in the works of Gaultier is found to deconstruct the Western-dominated elements against the background of subcultural elements, the elements borrowed from the minority race, md the Oriental culture. 8. The discontinuity clothes of Gaultier present the disordered principle of design without the uniform rules, and express the unrestrained freedom without captivation by the preconceived idea through the disruption of the dress and its ornaments just like Gaultier.
Adolescents' Behaviors on Fashion Adoption - with Reference to Clothing Involvement -
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 9, issue 4, 2001, Pages 592~601
This study focuses on fashion adoption behavior of adolescents. The impact of their clothing involvement factors and socio-demographic factors on their fashion adoption behavior was examined. Three core issues were identified for empirical test: 1) Elements of clothing involvement for adolescents; 2) Fashion adoption behavior of adolescents; 3) Impact of clothing involvement elements on fashion adoption behavior. The Likert Type questionnaires were used to measure clothing involvement and fashion adoption behavior. The data of 472 samples drawn from middle and high school students in Taegu Metropolitan City were analyzed by factor analysis, ANOVA, Scheff test, t-test and regression analysis. Main results of the study are as follows. 1 . Concept of the clothing involvement is composed of five dimensions: importance, fashion, self-expression, pleasure, and buying risk. 2. Socio-demographic factors do influence fashion adoption behavior. Average monthly pocket money, expenditures on clothes and household income are found to have statistically significant impacts on the adoption behavior. Female students are more fashion-oriented than male students. 3. The clothing involvement elements are found to have significant influences on fashion adoption behavior: fashion, importance and self-expression elements on fashion innovation; fashion, importance and pleasure elements on fashion information search.
A Study on the Clothing Purchasing Behavior in Internet Shopping and Its Relation to Life Style
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 9, issue 4, 2001, Pages 602~615
The purpose of this study was to investigate the relationships between life style and clothing purchase intention and purchase criteria in internet shopping-mall of male and female consumers. The subjects were 275 internet users (male: 164, female: 111). The results of the study were as follows. Five factors of life style derived by factor analysis:'Digital Orientation','Economy Orientation','Positive Activity','Fun Orientation', and'Home Orientation'. The dress types to be based on the purchase intention in internet shopping-mall was classified into four dimensions by factor analysis: Casual Wears & Single Item Clothes','Formal Wears','Miscellaneous Goods', and'Underwears ＆ Night Clothes'. Internet users showed relatively high purchase intention in casual wears & single item clothes and miscellaneous goods. Clothing purchase intention in internet shopping correlated significantly with home orientation in males, and with digital orientation in females. Subjects high in fun orientation placed importance on design as clothing purchase criteria. Males high in positive activity placed importance on price, color, sewing, brand, and wearing appearance. Females high in digital orientation believed design, color, material, refundment condition, and fashionability were important as purchase criteria. The level of digital orientation of dress purchasers in internet shopping-mall was higher than that of non-purchasers in case of males, and that of fun orientation was higher than that of non-purchasers in case of females. The present findings suggest that life style such as digital orientation and home orientation appeared to be important in predicting the clothing purchase intention in internet shopping mall.
Strategy to Enhance Competitiveness of Textile ＆ Fashion in Taegu Exporting U.S. Market - through Joint Research with the Color Association of the US (CAUS) -
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 9, issue 4, 2001, Pages 616~628
The purpose of this research is to create a polyester sample book that serves as a point of reference that exporters in the Taegu area can allude to when exporting to the U.S. By getting this project off the ground, we can expect to make a worthy contribution to the manufacture of high-quality, value-added fashion & textile goods. The research was conducted as follows. First, a study was carried out in the local market ensued by consumer surveys with regards to consumer attitude on man-made fibers, market researches, and interviews with experts, all in conjunction with the Color Association of the U.S. Also, a diverse array of fabric swatches were collected from Manhattans fabric wholesalers and then classified by color and fabric type fur the sample book. In short, this research found that man-made fibers have full marketability in the U.S. Thus, in order for Taegus synthetic textile firms to be successful in exporting to the US, it is essential that they come up with fabrics that have properties resembling natural fibers such as having a soft hand, natural sheen, smooth draping, and diverse textures as well as being in line with the current trends. In addition, it is also necessary to develop fabrications that are versatile and functional. Thus, by developing innovative fabrications, the synthetic textile business will turn toward the production of high-quality synthetics and will also provide a platfrom for strengthening the competitive edge of Koreas textile & fashion business.
The Study on Desired Image and Fabric Preference of Woman College Student for Apparel
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 9, issue 4, 2001, Pages 629~638
This study was intended to identify the desired image and fabric preference of woman college student for apparel and the relationship between these variables. Data were collected by questionnaire distributed to 260 woman college students through August to September of 2000. After eliminating incomplete questionnaires, 236 were analyzed. The most desired image was neat, and the most preferred fabric was natural fiber textile in fiber contents and light and soft in fabric sensation. The avoided image was masculine, and the negative sensation was heaviness. As a result of factor analysis, 7 factors -cute, intellectual, animate, neat, mature, sporty, sexy- were determined in image. And 8 factors -soft, durable, flat, rigid, light, bulky, heavy, pliable- were determined in fabric sensation. These factors explained large percentage of variance respectively. Multidimensional scaling was employed to analyze the relationship between desired image and fabric preference. Two dimensions were accepted to interpret the relationship. One of the results showed the closeness among the natural fiber textile, lightness, durability and natural image. And the short distance among the blended textile, elasticity, warmness and sporty image was presented.
The Effects of Women's Clothing Styles on the Impression Formation -Focusing on the Characteristics of the Perceiver-
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 9, issue 4, 2001, Pages 639~650
The purpose of this study is to investigate whether characteristics of the perceiver make differences in impressions of clothing types in the situation of first impression formation. Questionnaire was used as major method of gathering data. A poll of 650 men h women between the ages of 20∼39 living in Daegu was taken by the author for this study. Factor analysis, cluster analysis, frequency, ANOVA-test and t-test were implemented with the SPSS-package. The characteristics of clothing types used in our experiments include: sexy, masculine, feminine, dramatic, elegant-classic and casual. The results are as follows; 1 . Men favored sexy clothes more than women, whereas women tended to like masculine clothes more than men. 2. Positive, open-minded men were accepting of masculine, feminine, dramatic and elegant-classic clothes, but gave unfavorable responses toward casual clothes. In contrast, positive open-minded women continued to show unfavorable impressions of sexy clothes. Attitude towards clothing affected the outlook towards clothing by the perceiver 3. Clothing-dependent/vain men favored sexy, dramatic and elegant-classic clothes, while clothing-indifferent men tended toward casual clothes. Furthermore, clothing-dependent/vain women were interested in the feminine style, but women in general continued to show negative responses toward sexy and dramatic clothes.
A Study on Ease for the Skirt of Stretch Fabric according to the Body Type(II)
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 9, issue 4, 2001, Pages 652~663
The purpose of this study was to make clear reduction ratio due to the stretch ratio and to find out the ease for the patterns of stretch skirt according to the body types to improve the aesthetics and wearing satisfaction. Therefore, fundamental data for aesthetic and functional patternmaking of the stretch skirt can be suggested. The results from the study were as follows: 1. The results from the appearance test were as follows. For the ease on waist, W+0cm and W - lcm for thin body type were suggested for the best fit. For the ease on hip, H+0cm and H-2cm for thin body type were suggested for the best fit. 2. The results from wearing satisfaction test were as fDllows. W+Ocm, H+Ocm for thin body type were suggested for the best wearing satisfaction. 3. Based on the results from the above tests, the pattern reduction ratios for stretch skirt were as follows: pattern reduction ratio 3.3 ∼ 5.0% of waist, 4.8 ∼7.2% of hip for thin body type were suggested for the appropriate reduction ratio for stretch skirt. 4. The result from this study for stretch skirt was as follows: For thin body type, W+0cm, W - lcm for waist and H+0cm, H-2cm for hip were appropriate for stretch skirt pattern. Therefore, different ease has to be applied to stretch skirt pattern according to the body parts, to make the skirt looks good, is appropriate for thin body type, and is satisfied with appearance and wearing satisfaction test
A Study on Homogeneity of Costume Culture in the Coastal Areas of the Gulf of Aden -Focusing on the Burga of Horn and Arabia -
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, volume 9, issue 4, 2001, Pages 664~676
This study highlights the homogeneity in the heritage of the costume cultures between the Gulf of Aden, a part of the Horn region of Africa and the Arab region of West. Asia. Specifically, a cross-cultural perspective is used to examine the similarities between the two regions based on their (1) geographic living cultures and (2) the use of a costume accessory called Burga-a face veil. The current trend in research on the traditional costume culture of Africa mostly ties art with the traditional costume culture and examines its from an aesthetic or animalism perspective rather than from a cross cultural Perspective. Compared to Previous research in this area this study used literature reviews and Pictorial analysis to analyze costume cultures from a cross-cultural perspective. The Burga, which is worn in the low lands of the Horn region, which is located between the West Asia and African continents, as well as the Arab region, shows a reciprocal cultural exchange between the two regions. Similarities can be found in the shape, design, decorative elements, and the way the Bursa was worn in two regions. Although the Burga as a face veil is only a small part of a costume, it reaffirms the similar living cultures and geographic characteristics of the two regions. As the living culture environment becomes similar around the world, this study should help with cross culture negotiations as well as forther the development of traditional costume research.