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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 13, Issue 4 - Nov 1989
Volume 13, Issue 3 - Aug 1989
Volume 13, Issue 2 - Mar 1989
Volume 13, Issue 1 - Feb 1989
Selecting the target year
The Effect of Maslow's Basic Needs on the Clothing Values among Adult Women
Kang Kyung-Ja ; Suh Young-Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 13, issue 1, 1989, Pages 1~12
The purpose of this study was to examine the effect of basic needs and demographic variables of adult women upon clothing values. This study was designed with causal model regrading the demographic variables as independent variable: the basic need as interventing variable: the eight clothing values as dependent variables. The major findings of this research can be summarized as following; 1. Age of women has a definite effect on marriage status, school career and income. Age has effect on marriage status in seven values except exploratory value. It has effect on school career in aethetic and political values, and it has also effect on school career and income in social and religious values. 2. Age has no significant direct effect on the basic needs. Marriage status and school career have significant direct effect on the basic needs. Marriage status has positive effect on the need for self-esteem in seven values except exploratory value. The need for self-esteem of unmarried women are stronger than that of married women. School career has negative impact on the need for safety. The women having higher school career do not have strong need for safety in aethetic and social values. 3. School career, income, needs for safety, belongingness, self-esteem and self-actualizing have significant direct effect on clothing values. School career has positive effect on aethetic and political values, and it has negative effect on religious values. Income has negative effect upon social and religious values. Need for safety has negative effect on aethetic values. Need for safety is positively related with need for belongingneses, and they have an effect on the social values. Need for self-esteem has positive effect on the aethetic and political values, and it has negative impact on theoretical, economic, social and religious values. Need for self-actualizing has positive effect on the theoretical values.
The Effects on Clothing Weight in the Health State of the Kindergartners
Lee Won-Ja ; Choi Jeong-wha ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 13, issue 1, 1989, Pages 13~33
The purpose of this study is to obtain the effects on clothing weight in the health state of the kindergartners. So 1 divided 140 kindergartners into 3 groups. A not trained of light wearing in the control group, B the semi-experimetnal group, C the experimental group. In the field surveys conducted their monthly clothing weight and anthropometric measurements, physique index (obesity index) and motor-ability and rate of cold contraction and of absence, Cornell Medical index from Jun, 1986 to Feb, 1987 in Seoul. 1) The experimental group was even less clothing than the control group in clothing weight during the training period. 2) All the experimental group droped conspicuosly the rate of cold contraction and absence during this period. 3) After this training, the experimental group was better than semi-experimental group and control group in motor-ability especially in standing broad jump, flexibility and tennis ball throw, 25 meter dash. 4) But, 1 could not find the different of anthropometric-measurements, physique-index about this train.
A Study on assortment of Sim-Eui Form in Chosun Dynasty Period
Chung Hye-Gyung ; Kwon Young-Suk ; Choi Eun-Joo ; Moon Myeng-Ok ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 13, issue 1, 1989, Pages 35~42
The purpose of this study is to assort Sim-Eui form in Chosun Dynasty Period, so that we considered pictures of Sim-Eui in literature, portraits, and Sim-Eui. The results obtained are as follows; 1. Considering that United Sinla Period was related deeply to Tang Period, it is assumed that Sim-Eui was already transmitted in United Sinla Period. 2. Sim-Eui form was assorted roughly into two group, Straight line collar Sim-Eui (Gik-Ryeong Sim-Eui) and Sguare collar Sim-Eui (Bang-Ryeong Sim-Eui). The former was made to closs collars but not similar to carpenters sguare (Gop-Ja). The latter was made by Bek Gyum-Han at the begining, by the way it was not used widely. Then again Chun-Hu made the Sguare collar Sim-Eui in 19 c, it was used widely with Straight line collar Sim-Eui. 3. Sim-Eui in
was similar to those days Chullick, that verifies the Sim-Eui's influence on Chullick. 4. There was new simple Sim-Eui in
, it was similar to large sleeve's Durumagi, Heng-Eui. 5. Sim-Eui was sustituted by Gik-Ryeong Eui, Dap-Ho, Dan-Ryeong, Do-Po, Heng-Eui.
The Microstructural Changes of Free-Annealed Nylon 6 Filament Yarns - Comparison of UDY, POY, and FDY -
Lee Jung Ju ; Cho Gil Soo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 13, issue 1, 1989, Pages 43~47
The microstructural changes of nylon 6 UDY, POY and FDY were compared after free-annealing through crystallinity, birefringence, and melting behavior analyses. Free-annealing was done at various temperatures
and times (15 min., 30 min., 60 min.) using vaccum oven. Crystallinity was measured by the density gradient column technique and birefringence was measured using a Nikon polarizing microscope with a quartz wedge and Senarmont compensator. Melting behavior was investigated on the basis of DSC melting corves. Crystallinites of specimens increased as the treatment temperature and time increased. Birefringence of UDY increased after annealing and increased as the treatment temperature increased. On the other hand, those of POY and FDY decreased after annealing. Especially, the changes of crystallinity and birefringence of treated POY were particularly lower than those of treated UDY and FDY. Melting peaks of untreated UDY, POY and FDY were different in the position and the shape, but little change was seen in melting peaks in spite of increasing the annealing temperature and time. UDY and FDY showed single melting peaks in all the specimens. But POY showed double melting peaks, which means the coexistences of crystals with different thermal properties.
A Clothing-Ergonomics Study on the Variation of Upper Arm Skin Surface According to Arm Movements - on the arm movements to the vertical direction in front and in side -
Kim Hae-Kyung ; Park Eun-Joo ; Jeon Eun-Kyung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 13, issue 1, 1989, Pages 49~58
A clothing-erogonomics study was performed to investigate the difference of the upper arm skin skin surface and the relationship among the three aspects of upper arm (height of sleeve rap, sleeve width and armhole girth) by changing arm movements. Plaster cast was used for this experimental research. Arm movements consist of 9 types; just carmly standing on (
), and each 4 types (
) to the vertical direction in front and in side. The results were as follows; 1) As the arm-movement angle increased, the height of sleeve cap decreased and that ratio was largest in the portion A-B3. 2) The steeve width was enlarged with the increment of movement angle in all portions of upper arm except B1-B5. 3) As increasing the movement angle, the whole armhole girth decreased and the ratio o(front armhole girth (F-A) was larger than that of back. 4) In the vertical direction in front, the height o( the sleeve caps was larger, the sleeve widths were smaller than in the vertical direction in side in all movement types, but there was no significant difference in arm-hole girth between the two cases. 5) There were significantly negative relationships between measurements in height of sleeve cap and those in sleeve width, and also between those in height of sleeve cap and in arm-hole girth. And significantly positive relationships were found between neasurements in height of sleeve cap and those in arm-hole girth.
A Study on the Formaldehyde Release from Durable Press Finished Rayon Fabrics
Yeo Sook-Young ; Kim Eun-Ae ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 13, issue 1, 1989, Pages 59~66
This paper is concerned with formaldehyde release from durable press finished rayon fabrics.
rayon fabrics were treated with 3 kinds of commercial N-methylol crosslinking agents using a pad-dry cure technique. Aqueous extractions of fabric samples were carried out at
under pH's of 4, 7, 10. Formaldehyde release was evaluated for the types of resins, catalyst concentrations and extraction conditions. Results indicated that the higher concentration of catalyst leads to the more fixation of resin on the fabric. Total formaldehyde released to the extract was decreased as the catalyst concentration increased. For the resin types, the amount of formaldehyde released was in the order of DMU>MDMDHEU>DMDHEU. Free formaldehyde content in the extract was in the order of pH10>pH4>pH7. This result proved that resins are least resistant to alkaline hydrolysis and the N-C bond cleavage under alkaline condition. Under acidic condition, however, N-methylol formaldehyde was accumulated before the release of free formaldehyde. This suggested the C·0 bond cleavalge to form carbonium - immonim intermediate.
A Study on Fashion Leadership II - The Characteristics among the Groups Divided according to Their Fashion Leadership -
Ree Hwa-Yon ; Rhee Eun-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 13, issue 1, 1989, Pages 67~77
The purposes of the study were to compare the characteristics among five segments of the population (innovative communicators, innovators, opinion leaders, followers, indifferents) which were divided according to their fashion opinion leadersship and innovativeness. Thirty-one variables (thirteen fashion-related variables, five social variables, nine psychological variables, four demographic variables) were included in the analysis (analysis of variance, chi-square test). Data were obtained from 446 women living in Seoul area by self-administered questionnaire. The results of the study were as follows: there were significant differences among groups in most of fashion-related variables (fashion interest and clothing importance, four dimensions of clothing values, marketer-dominated and neutral information sources) and psychological variables (eight self-image variables) and in some of social and demographic variables (social activity, social stratum, education).
A Study on the Mechanical Properties of Fabrics for Korean Folk Clothes (Part 3) On the core-spun yarn woven fabrics
Sung Su-Kwang ; Kwon Oh-Kyung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 13, issue 1, 1989, Pages 79~87
In the part 1 and 2, relations were found between fundmental mechanical properties and primary hand values, performance of Korean women's summer and fall & winter fabrics. In this paper, in order to investigate the hand values and mechanical properties such as tensile, shearing, bending, compression, surface and thickness & weight of the core-spun yarn woven fabrics for Korean folk clothes were measured by KES-F system. The experimental results are statistically analyzed in the aspects of the mechanical properties, their effects on the hand values, formation of weared clothes and transformation behavior. The correlation in the hand values are analyzed, too. Furthermore, there mechanical properties are discussed in comparison with those values for kimono fabrics. The main results are summarized as follows: 1. The core-spun yarn woven fabrics for Korean folk clothes have box-shaped silhouette based on higher bending rigidity and shear elasticity. 2. The core-spun yarn woven fabrics for Korean folk clothes are inferior to silk fabrics, superior to polyester fabrics in formation. 3. A drapability and wrinkle recovery of core-spun yarn woven fabrics for Korean folk clothes formation for weared clothes are inferior to polyester fabrics, superior to silk fabrics. 4. A primary factor of mechanical properties contribute to the hand values of core-spun yarn woven fabrics for Korean folk clothes are same as the Korean women's winter fabrics, except for flexibility with soft feeling. 5. As for the hand values of core-spun yarn woven fabrics for Korean folk clothes, stiffness, anti-drape stiffness are superior to those of polyester fabrics. And also, flexibility with soft feeling, scrooping feeling of core-spun yarn woven fabrics have greater values as compared with silk fabrics for Korean folk clothes.
Graft Polymerization of Methyl Methacrylate onto Cotton Fiber -Comparison of two step graft polymerization and emulsion graft polymerization-
Bae Hyun-Sook ; Kim Sung-Reon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 13, issue 1, 1989, Pages 89~97
Graft polymerization of MMA onto cotton fiber was carried out in two ways, two step graft polymerization and one step emulsion graft polymerization, using tetravalent cerium ion as an initiator. At two step graft polymerization, the first step was the pretreatment of cotton fiber with an aqueous initiator solution and the second was the grafting pretreated cotton fiber in the monomer solution. In case of one step emulsion graft polymerization, MMA was emulsified with SLS in initiator solution. Under the various graft polymerization conditions, graft yield, graft efficiency and from the Arrhenius plot the apparent activation energy were compared. The results of this study were as follows: 1. Graft yield and graft efficiency of emulsion graft polymerization were higher than those of two step graft polymerization. 2. In case of two step graft polymerization, graft yield was affected by the pretreatment time of cotton fiber with an aqueous initiator solution. And graft yield of emulsion graft polymerization was increased with the concentration of emulsifier below cmc of SLS and was decreased thereafter. 3. Elevation of temperature resulted increase in graft yield for both grafting methods. The apparent activation energy of emulsion graft pelymerzation was lower than that of two step graft polymerization. 4. Increased reaction time increased in graft yield, but decreased in graft efficiency. 5. Moisture regain of grafted cotton was decreased with graft yield.