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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 14, Issue 4 - Dec 1990
Volume 14, Issue 3 - Aug 1990
Volume 14, Issue 2 - Mar 1990
Volume 14, Issue 1 - Feb 1990
Selecting the target year
A Study on the Cloth Design for Elderly Women to Mask Their Dorsal Curvature
Kim Tae-Kyung ; Lee Kyoung-Hi ; Park Jung-Soon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 14, issue 3, 1990, Pages 183~195
The author has studied the effect of clothes design to mask the dorsal curvature that is one of the commonest changes in elderly women. Body measurements including the body type and the status of dorsal curvature were perfor-med on 153 women of over 60 years of age, and then a body form to fit to the mean measure-ments was made to evaluate the effects of various designs to it. With 31 pattern designs modified by changing in their slash lines and gathers using darts, the diminishing effect of the rounded back were evaluated by means of sensory test. The results of this study can be summarized as follows: I . Results from the body measurements 1) The mean body type in elderly women was that of obesity. 2) With the advancement of age, the angle to indicate the degree of dorsal curvature as well as the angle to indicate the posture are increased. II . Concerning to the clothes design to diminish the shape of dorsal curvature 1) Among the designs by the position of darts, the basic pattern (Fig. 5-1-(1)) showed the best effect to mask the shape of dorsal curvature. 2) Out of the applied designs of princess lines, that in which the slash line is pointing toward the shoulder point (Fig. 5-2-(1)) seemed to be most effective. 3) What has angled princess line (Fig. 5-3-(1)) had the most diminishing effect among the waist darts and armhole princess lines. 4) Among the V-shaped designs, the slashed at the shoulder point (Fig. 5-4-(1)) had the best effect to lessen the shape of the dorsal cuuature. 5) Wider angle yoke had better effect to the narrow angle one among the designs with straight yoke, and that with downward direction (Fig. 5-5-(1)) showed the best effect. 6) Between straight wide angle yoke and curved yoke, that of curved one with downward direction (Fig. 5-6-(1)) had better effect as far as the masking effect of dorsal curvature is concerned. 7) Gathers around the neck showed better effect to those around the shoulder, and the more amount of gathers (Fig. 5-7-(1)), there was better effect. 8) The design with midline gathers at the level of horizontal slash line of armhole (Fig. 5-8-(1)) showed better effect to that with seperated gathers. 9) In case of design with gathers at the horizontal line of armhole, it showed the better effect with less amount of gathers in midline ones, but with more amount in the side ones. 10) Considering all 7 different designs with better effect in covering the shape of dorsal curvature, it was evident that the design with gathers was far better than the design with application of slash lines.
A Study on the Symbolical Charactor of Western Heraldry
Choi Young-Ok ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 14, issue 3, 1990, Pages 196~207
The western heraldry influenced by the style of periodic art, the lion and the eagle charges were expressed simply and laconically in Romanesque period, laconically but forcibly in Gothic period, and elegantly and elaborately in the period of the Renaissance. The symbolical character of each charge expressed in the heraldry in the process of the changes of the times can be summarized as follows: 1) The ferocious beast like the eagle or the lion in the heraldry is symbolic of a majestic appearance of sovereign's. 2) The legendary or mythical monster in the heraldry is the symbol of holding sacred the heraldry owner endowed superhuman ability from him, or the symbol of coercion or menace to the other party on the appearance of being sized with fear. 3) The domestic animals or the poultry in the heraldry are chiefly symbolic of intrepidity, bravery, sacrifice, or faithfulness, which can be supposed a subject's loyalty to his sovereign. 4) The lamb or the cross in the heraldry is the charge concerned with Christ who brought a fundamantal thought in the middles ages. So they can be said the symbol of Christianity.
An Analysis of Human Body Shape of Junior High School Girls by Using Plan Potogrammetry
Kim Kyung Sook ; Lee Choon Kye ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 14, issue 3, 1990, Pages 208~215
The purpose of this study is to provide the fundamental data of a dummy design for more suitable ready made clothing by making a pattern of somatic types and analyzing their morphological characteristics in accordance with different pattern of somatic types. The side view silhouettes of 90 junior high school girls of age
in seoul urban area were measured by means of the plan photographing and the low data were examined by principal component analysis, while the principal component analysis was applied and three components were extracted and then interpreted to explain to variation of the form of the body. Using three components respectively the cluster analysis was carried out and the subject classified into 4 cluster The following outcomes are obtained. . The results of principal component analysis of this study would be turned out the three; 1) The first principal component shows the degree of erectness or stoop of the figure. 2) The second principal component was a stature length or a growth rate. 3) The third principal component was the obesity component. 2. The results of cluster analysis by using three principal component analysis would be turned out the four cluser; 1) Cluster 1 (
of the total) is characterized with lower stature. 2) Cluster 2 (
of the total) is characterized with backward somatotype, and the highest leg. 3) Cluster 3 (
of the total) is thicked back of neck. 4) Cluster 4 (
of the total) is characterized with forward somatotype, and highest stature, height.
A study on the Development of Antimicrobial Finished and Water Repellent Nonwoven Fabrics using Organic Silicon Quaternary Ammonium Salt
Cho Gil Soo ; Cho Jeong Sook ; Sohn Mi Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 14, issue 3, 1990, Pages 216~221
This study was performed for the development of antimicrobial finished nonwoven fabrics with water repellency. And it was aimed to examine the changes of moisture related properties and air permeability of the finished fabrics. Viscose rayon nonwoven fabrics were treated with organic silicon quaternary ammonium salt having carbon numbers of 16, which was synthesized for this study Antimicrobial activity was evaluated by shake flask method and the reactivity of antimicrobial agent was measured by degree of luminescence from inductively coupled plasma. Water repellency of treated specimen was evaluated by dynamic water absorption measurement and air permeability was measured by Frazier method. The results obtained from this study were as follows: 1. Excellent antimicrobial activity was obtained for the high concentration of treatment and the durability of finishing after laundering was better as the treatment concentration was higher 2. Silicon contents taken up by specimen increased with increased treatment concentration. 3. Dynamic water absortion of treated specimen decreased compared to that of untreated. And, it was lowered as the treatment of concentration increased and as the silicon content increased. 4. Moistuie regain and uptake with lapse of time of treated specimen increased compared to those of untreated. But, air permeability of treated specimen decreased.
A Study on the Role of Emotions in Forming an Attitude Toward the Purchase of Clothing
Choi Sun Hyung ; Lee Eun Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 14, issue 3, 1990, Pages 222~228
The purposes of the study are to investigate the emotional dimensions toward clothing and to examine the role of these emotional reactions in mediating the effects of clothing cues on an attitude toward the purchase of clothing. The results are as follows: 1. The emotional dimensions to clothing are pleasure and arousal. 2. The model demonstrates an important role of emotion (pleasure) as mediators in forming an attitude toward the purchase of clothing.
A Study on the Effect of Fiber Type on the Water Vapor Transport Properties
Na Me Hee ; Kim Eun Ae ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 14, issue 3, 1990, Pages 229~240
The purpose of this study was to investigate the effect of hydrophilicity of the fiber on the water vapor transport properties of the fabric by using double layered fabrics of natural and synthetic fibers such as cotton, wool, nylon, dacron, orlon and polypropylene. Wickability and absorption rate were measured to determine the absorbancy of the fabrics. Dynamic and steady state water vapor transport properties were measured by cobaltous chloride method and evaporation method, respectively. Absorption was in the order of orlon> cotton > wool > nylon > polypropylene > dacron. Dynamic surface wetness of synthetic fabrics were faster than that of natural fabrics. For the double layered fabrics, higher water vapor transport was resulted when the natural fabric was exposed to lower vapor pressure and synthetic fabric was exposed to higher vapor pressure than when the fabrics were layered the other way around. Opposite result was obtained for orlon, which suggested that when the fabric of high absorbancy is exposed to the environment and lower absorbancy is to the skin, higher water vapor transpont could be resulted.