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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 15, Issue 4 - Dec 1991
Volume 15, Issue 3 - Aug 1991
Volume 15, Issue 2 - Mar 1991
Volume 15, Issue 1 - Feb 1991
Selecting the target year
Study on the Functional Brassiere Development
Choi Hei-Sun ; Khang Yeo-Sun ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 15, issue 3, 1991, Pages 229~238
The object of this study is to develope an improved version of brassiere with better fit and improved performance by conducting a try-on test on 6 types of revised brassieres (constructed on above basis). The study procedures consisted of a try-on test of experimentally constructed brassieres and a sensory test on fit. The results of experimentally constructed brassiere trial are as follows. 1. The sizes showing performance effects due to different types of experimentally construct- ed brassieres were bust length, bust height, under bust curve length, vertical and horizontal bust diamenter, upper-lower bust slope angle (direct measurement, parallel standard, upper torso tilt rate), side bust slope angle and top bust slope angle. 2. Concerning the changes in lower cup interior, elastic materials and wider portions perfor-med better in bust up effect. 3. No effects due to different shoulder strap positions were observed, but combined with lower cup interior changes the side types proved more effective than the standard types.
A Study on the Influence Made by the Women's Emancipation Movement (
) on Western Clothing
Kwak Mi Young ; Jung Hung Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 15, issue 3, 1991, Pages 239~250
The purpose of this study was primarily aimed at the revealing changes in the aspects of women's clothing derivationed with the women's self-consciousness, liberation movement, women's suffrage and social participation from the mid-l9th century to the mid-20th century. According to the study, the main change of western women's costumes were eradication of corset, emergence of troussers and tailored suit, and transformation of sportwear. So that, women's liberation movement has an deep effect on leading up to a change tendency the functionalization and masculinization of women's costume.
A Study on the Roles and Perceptions of Fashion Merchandisers in Women's Apparel Industry
Won Myung Sim ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 15, issue 3, 1991, Pages 251~262
The roles of fashion merchandisers (merchandise managers) in women's apparel industry and their perceptions of the job requirements as a fashion merchandiser were investigated to understand present fashion merchandising activities in the industry and suggest desirable roles of fashion merchandiser for further development of the industry. The research questionnaires were administered to fashion merchandisers working in the ten national brand women's apparel firms. The results of the study were as follows . 1. Annual sales volumes of most surveyed firms were more than five billions won and eight out of ten surveyed firms have fashion merchandisers in their firms. 2. Fashion merchandisers worked at a specific brand merchandising division sales and operations division or merchandise planning division. A fashion merchandiser generally supervised one brand. 3. Fashion merchandiser's work experience ranged from four to fifteen years showing a great deal of experience in the apparel industry. Their majors at university were mostly business and few majored in clothing and textiles, or textiles. 4. In general, the role of fashion merchandiser was a management specialist who was responsible for identifying target markets analyzing fashion trends, planning of the merchandise development budget planning, manufacturing planning, selling, advertising and sales promotion and distributing the merchandise. At some firms fashion merchandi-sers were not responsible for advertising, display, and receiving the orders. 5. Surveyed fashion merchandisers perceived the desirable fashion merchandiser's role as a management specialist conducting overall business activities in the areas of merchandise planning, manufacturing, selling and distribution. They also mentioned the following personal characteristics such as vision leadership, and persuasion as desirable characteri-stics for those who aspire to a career in fashion merchandising. 6. Surveyed fashion merchandisers emphasized relevant and realistic experiences in fashion merchandising education. Several ways were suggested to help the educator keep in touch with business and bring reality to students. They are . field work, bringing professionals into the classroom to speak to the students, emphasizing clothing and textiles education including merchandising area, and establishing a Department of Fashion Merchandising.
A Study on School Uniform Design of High School Girls' Stadents in Gwanju and Mokpo
You Kyung-Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 15, issue 3, 1991, Pages 263~270
The main purpose of this study was to give a right and proper direction in high school girls' uniforms through the comparison of the attitude toward school uniforms and free choice of wearing clothings. The samples were consisted of 319 high school girls' students in Gwanju and Mokpo. The data were analyzed using frequency, percentage and chi-square test. The finding of this study can be summarized as follows: 1. Students prefered to take uniforms than self·control clothes. The greatest reason for the agreement on uniforms is th,It uniforms make sure the identity of the students. The problem in uniform was the disconvenience for activity. 2. Preference for uniform style was semi-fitted double jacket, flat collar blouse, vest and pleated skirt. 3. They make choice of prefering color were green, bluepurple and white, free-choice clothing color were green, light yellow and light blue and uniform color were bluepurple, darkblue and black.
Emulsion Graft Copolymerization of Methyl Methacrylate onto Cotton Fiber
Bae Hyun-Sook ; Ryu Hyo-Seon ; Kim Sung-Reon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 15, issue 3, 1991, Pages 271~280
Emulsion graft copolymerization of MMA onto cotton fiber using Ce(IV) salt as an initiator was carried out. Graft yield and graft efficiency were observed according to the kinds and concentrations of emulsifier and polymerization conditions. The physical properties of MMA grafted cotton fabric were investigated. The results of this study were as follows: 1. The heighest graft yield of emulsion graft polymerization occurred at the concentration below cmc of emulsifier, which was different from emulsion polymerization. Nonionic sur- factant as an emulsifier was more effective than anionic one. 2. The highest graft yield was obtained at the initiator concentration
. The viscometric molecular weight of PMMA was in the order of 106. 3. As reaction time increased, the graft yield increased but the graft efficiency decreased. 4. Elevation of reaction temperature resulted in increase of graft yield. The apparent activation energy of MMA graft polymerization was 4.72 Kcal/mol. 5. Physical properties of MMA grafted cotton fabric varied with increase of grafting. Thickness and stiffness showed a noticeable increase, whereas tensile strength and elongation was slightly increased. Crease recovery increased as the graft yield increase up to
and decreased thereafter.
Characteristics and Dyeing Properties of Arrowroot Leaves Colors
Cho Kyung Rae ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 15, issue 3, 1991, Pages 281~288
Optical behaviors and dyeing properties of color solution extracted from arrowroot leaves were investigated. The wavelength of maximum absorption of the color solution appeared at 268 and 320 nm, respectively. The amount of colors extracted was increased with extracting temperature and time. Spectra of color solution are shifted to longer wavelength at higher pH values, and shifted to shorter wavelength by irradiation for 2 hrs. Remaining ratio of colors by irradiation decreased with increasing alkalinity of color solution. Degree of exhaustion on the silk fabrics was related to the concentration and pH of dyebath. Surface color of dyed fabrics, lightfastness and wash-fastness were variously according to mordant used. Hot water resistance and drycleaning fastness of dyed silk fabrics by treatment of mordants were all within commercially acceptable limits.
Conceptual Framework of Clothing Conformity
Park Hye Sun ; Rhee Eun Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 15, issue 3, 1991, Pages 289~296
This research was intended to provide conceptual framework of clothing conformity by determining motivation types of clothing conformity and nonconformity, and their relation-ships. The responses of 714 fulltime employeed subjects from four different cities were analyzed. Business were was used as the situational stimulus. The literature study suggested three different motivation types of clothing conformity including Normative Conformity, Informational Conformity, and Identificational Conformity, and two different types of clothing nonconformity including Anticonformity and Independence. As the results of the empirical analysis, clothing conformity types were found to be Normative Conformity and Identificational Conformity. Clothing nonconformity types were found to be Anticonformity and Independence. Identificatinal Conformity correlated positively with Anticonformity and negatively with Independence, whereas Normative Conformity correlated negatively with Anticonformity and Independence.
Clothing Design Preference of Women by Physical Type and Age; Study II - ln the area of colour and fabric motifs -
Chung Sham Ho ; Kahng HeWon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 15, issue 3, 1991, Pages 297~307
The purpose of this study was to investigate the effect of physical type and age on preference for color and fabric motifs in women's clothing design. Color preference measures consisted of fabric samples in solid colors and drawings of clothing styles painted in colors. Preference for fabric motifs was assessed by printed fabrics in various patterns and sizes. All of the preference measures were devised specifically for this study. Furthermore, items on height and weight for physical type as well as age of the subjects were included in the questionnaire. Data were obtained by means of structured interviews and self-administered questionnaires from 588 women (
years of age) in seoul. Analysis was by chi-square (
), frequency, percentage, and mean. On color preference, a small but significant body type, height, and age effect was found on some types of clothing. Preference for fabric motifs was affected by body type; height of subjects was related to preference for size of motifs, and age was related to choice, size, and width of striped motifs. It was concluded that body type, height, and age are 1e3st effective in predicting color preference. Fabric motif preference was influenced more by age than by body type or height. Generally, there was some similarities in preference for lines and fabric patterns among slim body types, tall figures, and younger age groups as well as heavy body types, short figures, and older age groups.
A Study on the Drafting Method According to the Somatotype
Lee Jeong Yim ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 15, issue 3, 1991, Pages 309~320
The purpose of this study was to develope a pattern drafting method for various somatotype which contribute largely to increase the fitness and comfort of garments. This study had 8 subjects who were college girls who had prominent somatic characteristics. The study was carried out by the following procedures. 1. The 8 subjects who had prominent somatic characteristics were cheesed by photograph- ing. The somatotypes of 8 subjects were classified into Standard somatotype, Turning over somatotype, Bending somatotype and Turning over-Bending somatotype. 2. Under the criterion of the body surface development, the comparative investigation on the pattern and the sensory evaluation were accomplished in the flat pattern method and the draping pattern method. 3. The body surface development of them were made by the draping pattern method. 4. In the result of the comparative investigation and the sensory evaluation, it was found that the flat pattern had better appearance and comfort than the draping pattern, and the draping pattern included more somatic characteristics than the flat pattern. 5. On the basis of those result, the pattern drafting method according to the somatotype was indicated and it was examinated by the clothing experiment. 6. The sensory evaluation for appearance and comfort was applied to evaluate the new basic pattern for four somatotype by comparing it with the conventional basic pattern (Rim, won ja' 5). The result of the sensory evaluation, it was found that the new basic pattern was more suitable for each somatotype than the conventional basic pattern.
A Study on the Theoretical Framework of Clothing Evaluative Criteria
Kim Mi Young ; Rhee Eun Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 15, issue 3, 1991, Pages 321~334
The main object of this study was to clarify the concept, scheme, an dimensions of the clothing evaluatie criteria, and to organize its theoretical framework accordingly. The research was carried out in tow ways. The first research was investigated by the critical evaluation of the existing literature, while the other research was investigated by an empirical survey study. The questionnaire was developed for the empirical study. The questionnaire was administered to 640 housewives living in Seoul area during the fall of 1988. Social wear was selected according to the defined times, place, and occasion. As a result of the literature study, the first research problem, the clothing evaluative criteria was loud to exist at three different level - benefit level, element level, and intemediate level -. The colthing evaluative criteria at the benefit le·eel were loud to include four different dimensions-fashionbility, status symbolism, practicality, and economy. The validity of the benefit dimensions was established by the empirical confirmation utilizing factor analysis technique.