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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 16, Issue 4 - Dec 1992
Volume 16, Issue 3 - Aug 1992
Volume 16, Issue 2 - Mar 1992
Volume 16, Issue 1 - Feb 1992
Selecting the target year
The Costume in the Era of Practical Science -Through the books written by Yack-Young Chung-
Chung Hye Gyung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 16, issue 2, 1992, Pages 149~154
The objective of this paper is to find out the costume in the era of Practical Science through the books written by Yack-Young Chung. Conclusions are described as follows: 1. A disorder of a class system is to be seen from the correlation between the upper class costume and the lower class costume. 2. He made an effort to develope technics and enlarge the specialist for the revolution of costume system. 3. He stressed the thrift for the revolution of custom through clothing. 4. He insisted that the use of clothing be out of formal courtesy, from the fact he showed his idea for the basic courtesy.
A Study on the Classification of Apparel Stores in Seoul, Korea
Kim Hyun Sook ; Rhee Eun Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 16, issue 2, 1992, Pages 155~168
The purposes of this study were: (1) to identify the image dimensions of apparel stores according to how the consumers rate the importance of store attributes; (2) to classify the apparel stores in Seoul, Korea according to consumers' perception of the image attributes of their preferred store; (3) to develop a positioning map of the apparel stores according to their salient image dimensions; and (4) to classify the female adults in Seoul according to the criteria of their preferred store and to describe the characteristics of target customers according to storetype. 'A questionnaire was developed to measure store patronage, perceived importance of the store image attributes, perception of the store image attributes for the respondent's most frequently patronized store, and demographic information. Data from 520 female adults living in Seoul were analyzed. The results were as follows; 1. The image dimensions of fashion stores were product quality, shopping convenience, location, promotion, atmosphere, product information, design characteristics and price. 2. The apparel stores in Seoul were classified into five groups by the perception of store image, which were labeled as national chain store, designer store, specialty store, wholesale store and independent store, according to their discriminant characteristics. 3. According to the positioning map, product quality and location convenience were identified as the most important apparel store type patronage criteria. 4. The female adult group divided by store preference indicated significant differences in the perceived importance of store attributes. Each group showed multi-store patronage.
The Effects of Blouse Types on Ventilation Clothing Microclimate
Park Woo Mee ; Choi Chul Ho ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 16, issue 2, 1992, Pages 169~180
The purpose of this study is to investigate the effects of type of clothing microclimate and exercise condition on ventilation. The experimental system employed a trace gas technique of the previous research. Clothing microclimate volume measurement was based on the substitution water technique for inter-clothing air volume. The experimental variables were tested at four levels of clothing microclimate spacing, microclimate shape of the previous research and two levels of exercise conditions. 2, 4, 6 cm ease were added to B/2+4 of basic blouse pattern for the microclimate spacing variable. Each combination of three variables were tested in triplicate. Analysis of variance of experimental variables on vetilation, such as oxygen exchange rate, half time of first order model was conducted. Oxygen exchange rate and half time of first order model are affected by the shape of microclimate air and exercise condition.
Photodegradation of Cellulosics -Part 1: Effects of Temperature and Humidity on Tear Strength Reduction-
Jeon Kyung Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 16, issue 2, 1992, Pages 181~187
A Study on the Symbolical Significance in Korean Kasa - Focusing on the embroideries -
Lee Soon Duk ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 16, issue 2, 1992, Pages 189~195
Buddhism as one of alien thoughts has been developed conflicting and fusing with Korean Cultural bases. From these fusion process Korean Kasa (i.e, sacerdotal robe for Buddhist monk) also came into possession of different features from original Kasa which Buddhist Command- ment regulates or Kasa of South Asia which is the birthplace of Buddhism. 1. Original kasa was Pamsukula (i.e., a shabby, abandoned, muddy cloth), which did not permit special ornament or luxurious materal. However, we can find splendid colors, letters and embroideries in Korean Kasa. 2. These phenomenon originated from Three Treasures Faith, that is to say, the faith for three treasures, such as Buddha, Buddhist Commandment and Buddhist monk, which was formed by the fusion of Buddhism and conventional Shamanism. 3. Such letters as 천(Heaven), 왕(God). 영(om) stand for what shaped Guardian Deities protecting buddhist Sanctum. 4. The rmbroideries of three-legged bird, such as rabbit and toad, which symbolyze 일(sun) and 월(moon) stand for what shaped conventional divinities. 5. After Kasa possessing originally practical significance, such as Kasa Charity, was penetrated into Korea, it became the object of faith, possessing symbolical significance in addition.
The Effect of Clothing Satisfaction, Body Cathexis, and School Achievement Related to Social Self-esteem
Kim Yang Jin ; Kahng He Won ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 16, issue 2, 1992, Pages 197~209
The purposes of this study were 1) to investigate high school girls' overall clothing satisfac-tion and self concepts, 2) to clarify the relationship between clothing satisfaction and self concept in terms of body cathexis, school achievement and social self-esteem, and 3) to find out the social self-esteem differences among the groups related to the high and low levels of clothing satisfaction, body cathexis as well as school achievement. Body Cathexis was measured by the Secord and Jofrard's Body Cathexis Scale. School achievement and social self-esteem were assessed with the modified questionnaires based on the previous researches. Clothing satisfaction which included 3 aspects was measured by the questionnaires developed for this study. The questionnaire was administered to 464 high school students in Seoul, and the data were aiialyzed by frequency, 1-test, one-way·ANOVA and SNK test, Pearson's product moment correlation and factor analysis. The results of this study were as follows: 1) High-school girls 'body' cathexis showed low levels of mean and distribution, wheareas school achievement and social self-esteem showed high levels of those.2) There werf significant positive correlation between clothing satisfaction and all of the self concept variables. In addition, positive correlation were found among the three self concept variables. 3) Three clothing satisfaction factors were emerged and named as clothing possession, clothing selection ability and parent's clothing restriction. Clothing posses- sion and parent's clothing restriction were generally satisfied. 4) School achievement was the most influencial variable for the level of serial self-esteem. It was thought that body dissatisfac-tion would be relieved by the high clothing satisfaction.
A Study on the Determinant Variables of Brand Loyalty Related to Clothing Items
Jin Byoung Ho ; Kahng Hewon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 16, issue 2, 1992, Pages 211~225
The purposes of this study were 1) to estimate the brand loyalty related to clothing items,2) to investigate the differences between the brand loyal group and the brand disloyal group in 4 determinant variables (product involvement, information source, purchase-related and demo- graphic variables) of brand loyalty, 3) to find out important determinant variables which explain the brand loyalty on clothing items, and 4) to identify product attributes that lead to brand loyalty on clothing items. Four clothing items selected (ortho study were underwear, jean / skirt, T-shirt / sweater, and formal dress / suits. The questionnaire was administered to 529 adult women living in Seoul, and the methods used to analyze the data were Frequency, T-Test,
, Factor Analysis and Multiple Discriminant Analysis. The results of this study were as follows: 1) Both behavior and attitude are needed for the measurement of brand loyalty in clothing. The hightes brand loyal item was formal dress / suits, followed by jean / skirt, T-shirt / sweater, underwear. 2) There were some significant differences between the brand loyal group and the brand disloyal group in 4 determinant variables of brand loyalty. 3) The important determinant variables of brand loyalty were perceived risk / brand differ-ence, purchase experience / self-confidence in purchase, and product symbolic / hedonic mean-ing, of which the most important varible was found to be perceived risk / brand difference. 4) The most important product attribute that lead to brand loyalty for underwear was comfort whereas for the other 3 clothing items, it was style. Quality was the second important productattributeforallclothingitems.
Influential Variables on Clothing Conformiy and Nonconformity
Park Hye Sun ; Rhee Eun Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 16, issue 2, 1992, Pages 227~235
The purpose of this study was to identify the variables influential on Normative Clothing Conformity, Identificational Clothing Conformity, Clothing Anticonformity, and Clothing Independence. Four clothing-related variables (importance of clothing, confidence of clothing, recognition of clothing norm, and perceived risk of clothing), two personality variables (confer-mistic character and self-esteem) and six demographic variable (sex, age, years of education, job, income, and length of career) were included in the analysis. The responses of 714 fulltime employeed subjects from four different cities were analyzed. Business wear was used as the situational stimulus. As the results, career people conformed more identificationally when they felt clothing was important, had conformistic character, had low self-esteem, and felt psychological risk of clothing. They conformed more normatively when they felt social risk of clothing, recognized the clothing norms of the fim, had confoirnistic character, and recognized the clothing norms of the society. They anticonformed more when they felt clothing was important, were female, did not have conformistic character, had confidence of clothing, and felt less performance risk of clothing. And they acted more independently in clothing behavior when they had confidence of clothing, did not have conformistic character, felt peformance risk of clothing, and felt less social risk of clothing.
Thermal and Water Transmission Properties of Vapor Permeable Water Repellent Fabrics and Thermal Insulation Batting Materials
Cho Gil Soo ; Choi Jong Myoung ; Lee Jung Ju ; Lee Sern Woo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 16, issue 2, 1992, Pages 237~244
The purpose of this study was to comparatively evaluate thermal and water transmission properties of several vapor permeable water repellent (VPWR) fabrics and synthetic battings that became available in recent years. Five VPWR fabrics evaluated were Hipora in three coating variants,
. Battings evaluated were
Thermal resistance and water vapor transmission were measured for each fabric and batting and in all combinations. Thermal resistance at zero and 37 cm/sec air velocity was determined by the Thermo Labo II technique for simultaneously measuring conduction and radiation heat transfer. Water vapor transmission over 24 hours was measured by a modified weight-gain method in a compact humid chamber at conditions simulating the clothing climate under heavy exercise (
R.H., and 0.5 m/sec air velocity). Fabric porosity was calculated from fiber density and fabric weight, thickness, and area. Thermal resistance results for the fabrics showed the effectiveness of coatings in inhibiting heat transfer. Measurements taken in wind were:
Measurements without wind were higher but in the same order. Water vapor transmission results were in reverse order:
, 6.4 kg/
. In general thermal resistance increased with porosity. For battings, the thermal resistance with wind results were:
. Thermal resistance was proportional to thickness. Thermal resistance of fabric-batting combinations were
higher than those of the battings only. Water vapor transmission for combinations was mainly affected by that for the VPWR fabric used.
Comfort Properties of Ski Wear Using Vapor-Permeable Water Repellent Fabrics and Thermal Insulation Battings
Cho Gil Soo ; Choi Jong Myoung ; Lee Jung Ju ; Lee Sern Woo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 16, issue 2, 1992, Pages 245~254
The purpose of this study was to evaluate the mechanical thermal resistances and comfort properties of ski wear made with vapor-permeable water repellent (VPWR) fabrics and thermal insulation battings. Four types of experimental clothing were made with the combination of two VPWR fabrics (Hipora-
) and two thermal insulation battings (
). Thermal resistances of ski wear were objectly evaluated by thermal manikin experiment (
R.H.,0.25 m/sec air velocity) and thermographic accessment (
R.H.,0.25 m/sec air velocity, and emissivity level : 1). Garment wear tests of ski wear included the measurement of the microclimate (inner temp. and relative humidity) of the experimental clothing by digital thermohygrometer and subject wear sensation using McNall's thermal comfort ratings. CBo values of experimental clothing 4 (Hipora-
) and 1 (Hipora-
) were significantly higher than those of 2 (Hipora-
) and 3 (Hipora-
). Thermal resistances in the points of breast, back, belly, and loin was significantly higher than those of upper am, fore arm, and shank of measuring points on the thermal manikin. According to the color map of the thermogram, the experimental clothing 4 indicated higher surface temperatures than the others showing more yellowish spots on the surface of clothing. Inner temperature of experimental clothing was not significantly different among the four types of ski wear, but relative humidities of experimental clothing were significantly different. Relative humidities of experimental clothing 1 and 3 showed higher than those of 2 and 4. Relative humidity of experimantal clothing was affected largely by the thermal resis- tance of thermal insulation batting materials. The subject wear sensation of experimental clothing 2 and 4 showed lower humidity than the others. Subject wear sensation was affected more by humidity sensation than by thermal sensation.
A Study on Costume Design Simulation using LUMENA Program I
Chang Soo Kyung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 16, issue 2, 1992, Pages 255~262
A computer simulation methiod for costume design has been developed using LUMENA, a generic-purpose 2-dimensional graphic software. In this study the palette, tone chart, fabric chart, styling chart, and costume drawing were constructed on the computer. In costume design simulation, fabric swatches with various colors and patterns were applied to the base garment image taken by using a scanner or a video camera. In this procedure the original 3-dimensional effect was fully retained. Using this simulation method, a number of costume designs could be carried out in short time without actually making the garment. A portfolio including the tone chart, fabric chart, styling chart, costume drawing, and simulation results were made for the purpose of demonstration, using the animation tools of LUMENA.
A Study on the Positioning of Brand Image of Ready-made Lady Wear
Kim Hae Jung ; Lim Sook Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 16, issue 2, 1992, Pages 263~275
This study intends to provide strategic positioning of brand image analysed from the view point of perceptual dimensions of clothing consumers. Consumers are segmented on the basis of the attributes of brand image, and in each segment, perceptual map is composed according to multidimensional scaling. The results are as follows; 1. According to the Benefit Segmentation, it is statistically significant that the consumers are divided into 'product-factor oriented group 'and' image-factor oriented group'. 2. From the analysis of perceptual map upon the 'similarity of brand image,'image-factor oriented group 'perceives more differently than 'product-factor oriented group' 3. From the analysis of perceptual map with the evaluation of attributes of brand image, price, promotion and design are significant determinants in 'total consumer group'. In addition, store image is significant determinant in' image-factor oriented group' and quality is significant determinant in' product-factor oriented group'. According to the evaluation of consumers on 8 brands with determining attribute-vector, ranks of brands in each segment are similar in the vector of price and promotion but different in the vector of design between segment groups. 4. From the analysis of perceptual map upon the preference of brand image, the distribution of preference and position of ideal point are different between segment groups. 5. With evaluation of purchase habit, statistically significant differences are found between groups segmented in the degree of importance of attributes, purchasing motive, purchasing time, sources of information and expenses for clothes.