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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 16, Issue 4 - Dec 1992
Volume 16, Issue 3 - Aug 1992
Volume 16, Issue 2 - Mar 1992
Volume 16, Issue 1 - Feb 1992
Selecting the target year
Effect of Body Exposure and Color of Suit on the Impression of Modesty
Koh AeRan ; Kahng Hewon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 16, issue 3, 1992, Pages 181~195
The purposes of this study were to investigate 1) the effect of body exposure and color of a woman's suit on the perception of modesty, and 2) the effect of perceiver's sex and age on impression formed by the function of clothing variables. The instrument of this study consisted of a response scale and stimuli. Thirteen items of 7-point semantic differential scales were developed to measure the perceiver's impression on wearer's modesty. Stimuli were color pictures of a model wearing one of 8 types of suit constructed by a 2
2 factorial design. The manipulation of each level of the clothing variables were: color of the suit by black and red, leg exposure by varying skirt lengths to a Chanel-line and mini skirt, and neck exposure by shirt collar blouse and scarf. Two models, representing typical female college students living in Seoul, were selected to eliminate model effect. The sample include 384 subjects, consisting of 4 groups of male and female college students and middle aged men and women. Eight experimental groups were randomly assigned to one of eight stimuli based on between-subject design. One half of each group responded to model 1 and the other half to model 2 of same stimulus. Responses to the semantic differential scales were factor analyzed (pc model, Varimax rotation) to identify factors constructing impression of modesty. Two factors emerged regardless of subgroups; Elegance and Extroversion factor. The first factor was found to be dominant, accounting for 60 percent of the total variance. The other accounted for just 11 percent. Multidimensional ANOVA (5-way, 3-way) was conducted to test the effect of the clothing variables against two factors identified from the factor analysis. Leg exposure was the most powerful variable affecting the impression of Elegance and Extroversion factor for all per. ceiver subgroups. Neck exposure had primary effect on the impression of Elegance, whereas it partially influenced that of Extroversion. Color of suit had only partial effect on the impression of Extroversion. Hypothesis I was partially supported from the findings above. The effect of perceiver's age and sex on impression by the function of clothing variables was tested by comparing the result between four subgroups. In forming an impression of the wearer's modesty, male college students were least affected by the manipulation of clothing variables, while middle aged males were affected most. In the female groups, there was no age difference and they fell between the male groups in the degree to which they were affected. Hypothesis II was supported only by age difference in two male groups, and by sex difference in two student groups.
The Influence of Arshile Gorky's & Jackson Pollock's Painting on Modern Fashion
Chung Heungsook Grace ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 16, issue 3, 1992, Pages 197~207
Expressionism, is as diverse as the artists invo)ved, in a very broad sense two main tendencies may be noted. The first is that of the Action painters, concerned in different ways with the gesture of the brush and the texture of the paint. It included such major artists as Arshile Gorky, Jackson Pollock, Willem De Keening, and Franz Kline. The other group consisted of the Color Field painters, concerned with the statement of an abstract sign or tranquil image in terms of a large, unified color shape or area. Here must be included Mark Rothko, Barnett Newman, Ad Rdinhardt, as well as, to a degree, Adolph Gottlieb, Robert Motherwell, and Clyf(ord Still. In this paper, 1 selected two artists Arshile Gorky and Jackson Pollock independent charac-teristics and studied the influence of their Action painting on the fabrics of modern fashion. However, it should be noted it was never the intention of the critic Harold Rosenberg, in coining this term, to imply that Action painting was a kind of athletic exercise. Nor is it true that the furious and seemingly haphazard scattering of the paint involved a completely uncontrolled, intuitive act. There is no question that, in the paintings of Jackson Pollock, Arshile Gorky and many of the other Abstract Expressionists, the element of intuition or the accidental plays a large and deliberate part; this was indeed one of the principal contributions of Abstract Expressionism which had found its own inspiration in surrealism's 'psychic automaton'. However, nothing that an experienced and accomplished artist does can be completely accidental. Aside from their intrinsic quality, the spun-out skeins of poured pigments contributed other elements that changed the course of modern painting. There was the concept of the all-over painting, the painting seemingly without beginning or end, extending to the very limits of the canvas and implying an extension even beyond. The feeling of absorption or participation is heightened by the ambiguity of the picture space. The colors and lines, although never punctur-ing deep perspective holes in the surface, still create an illusion of continuous movement, a billowing, a surging back and forth, within a limited depth. To study the influence of Abstract Expressionism on the fabric of modern fashion, 1 selected and examined four fashion magazines: Collezioni published in France, Bazaar in Italy, Gap in Japan and Vogue in the U.S.a. froim January 1989 to June 1991. As a result of this review I found that some fabrics used in modern clothing are printed in a dripping, pouring and splashing style without any meaning or form. Slides included in the presentation show that modern fabrics which are printed in such a style were influenced by Abstract Expressionism. The slides also show that these abstract prints are well suited to modern fashion design.
A Study on the Color of Neo-Impressionism on the Fabric Pattern of Modern Fashion - From 1987 To 1991-
Lee Hyo Jin ; Jung Heung Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 16, issue 3, 1992, Pages 209~221
A standpoint art's style, present-day Western dress was establishing a systematic, theoritical value in sphere of fine art's meaning & it's expression on the modern fashion. For this reason, I selected Impressionism (a broad senes: be included Impressionism, Neo-Impressionism, Post-Impressionism) that was designated 'the revolution of color'. In the previous paper, 1 already discussed about the modern fashion under the influence of the color of Impressionism, from this study, Neo-Impressionism's techniques & it's influence on the modern fashion was investigated. The Impressionists had purposely used uneven brushwork & a vivid palette to transmit the intensity & immediacy of nature, whereas the Neo-Impressionists utilized methodically applied dots, a technique commonly described as Pointillism, to achieve their rationalist goal of eliminating the fugitive & the casual in order to seize a more fundamental reality. Of all them, Seurat had already become interested in the posible analogies between science, music & psychology on the on hand & art on the other, and scientist's books & articles offered a wealth of theoretical support. 1'articulary, it was corroborated that effects of sadness, calm, or happiness could be achieved through manipulation of color & design. The conclusions are as follow: 1. Through the modern fashion, a space between pattern & pattern was reflected unstable balances & harmonies, that, Neo-Impressionist emphasized the distinction between outdoor & subject, between elaborately clothed & nude figures, corresponded to modern fashion's pattern. 2. The modern fashion was presented a small border or band within the pattern itself which colors complemented those of the adjacent pictorial surface and mediated between the painted image & its enclosure.
A Theoretical Study on Clothing Satisfaction Model
Hoag Keum Hee ; Rhee Eun Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 16, issue 3, 1992, Pages 223~232
The ultimate purpose of this study is to build a model on clothing satisfaction which extends the consumer satisfaction model by unifying the exportation antecedents. In the literature study, it is proposed to clarify the concepts on the clothing satisfaction, and to investigate the present paradigms of the consumer satisfaction. It is widely accepted by the clothing researchers that the clothing satisfaction is a comparative process in which the evaluation criteria are used to judge the clothing product and to access the disconfirmation. In the Disconfirmation paradigm, the role of the expectation is very important. We propose to classify the expectation into the expective expectation and the normative expectation. The normative expectation applies when the investment cost and effort are considered. The expectation is shown to be affected by the expectation antecedents of the product characteris-tics, the situation characteristics, and the consumer characteristics. We investigate in detail those clothing satisfaction determinants and their measurement methods. Then, we build a clothing satisfaction model by the disconfirmation paradigm which is composed of the expectation antecedents, the expectation (expective expectation, normative expectation), the perceived clothing product performance, and the disconfirmation.
A Study on the Fashion Style of the New Generation in Korea -with reference to the newspaper and magazine in 1980's-
Yum Hae Jung ; Cho Kyu Hwa ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 16, issue 3, 1992, Pages 233~242
This study primarily concentrates on the Fashion Style of the New Generation which has come into being in 1980 with reference to the contents of the newspaper and magazine in 1950's. . The New Generation has undergone the social and cultural change under the effect of mass communication, mass consumption brought by the economic development, sports boom promoted during the period of Asian Games and Seoul Olympic Games and the adoption of the policy for the autonomous school uniform. In the process of the social and cultural change, they have the common peculiarity such as sensitivity, anthoritarianism and polarity and they have taken an important part in the development of the 'Young Fashion' The characteristics of their fashion styles are divided into three periods as follows; 1. The rising period (1980-1982): The most important pecuriality of the first step can be sum up to the following point. The free fashion style replaced the formal one such as T-shirt or casual wear comes into as a everyday dress. Moreover, many people become interested in the New Fashion which is gradually diversified and high-qualified. As a natural consequence, the lively interest of the people has brought into the appearance and competition of the New Brand in fashion industry 2. The growing period (1983-1986): Mannish Look, so-called 'New Fashion' gained the summit of the fashion and change over conservatively. However, 'Mannish Look' have great effect on the Fashion Style until now on. Specially in Korea, 'Punk Style'and 'Androgynous Look' can be an example among many. 3. The diversifying period (1987-1989): The Fashion Style has developed variously even though the Reactionism takes the lead as the main current of the Korean Fashion. Moreover, it is noticeable that man comes into the stage as a new fashion group and the fashion market begins to dear in various lines of goods with moderate and low prices. These various aspects can be regarded as diversification in the Fashion Style as the needs in the times and society.
The Factor and Analysis on the Face Image to Hairstyle Variation - using by Computer Graphic Simulation-
Do Ju Yeun ; Kown Young Suk ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 16, issue 3, 1992, Pages 243~250
The purposes of this research were to analyze factor structure and the face image to hairstyles which was made by Computer graphic simulation. To select ten hairstyle, a standard face selected between women of
years, and four factor (straight, curl, hair length, front hair, part hair) which were made of stand of hairstyle were applied. The results were as follows; 1 face image factor by hairstyle variation were found to five factor; negative and pogitive, indivisuality, youthfulness, unbanity, intelligence. 2. The result of analysis to face image by hairstyle factor were (1) In the hair state, straight hair was explained by the youthful, pure, decent image than curl. (2) In the hair length, the longer hair was explained by the more feminine, softness image. The shorter hair was explained by the more vigorous, youthful image. (3) In the presence of front hair, bang hair was explained by the commonness, moderate, classical image than all back hair (4) In the part hair, part hair was explained by the modern and unbanity image than no part hair.
Studies on the Thermal Insulation Effect of Bedding ( I ) - Warmth Retaining Property of Filling Material -
Lee Song-Ja ; Sung Su-Kwang ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 16, issue 3, 1992, Pages 251~256
As a basic expriment to find out the thermal insulation effect of bedding KES-F7 was used to measure. The warmth retaining ratio of the six kinds of filling materials as cotton, wool , silk, down, cotton/polyester was measured, and the infleunce on the warmth retaining ratio of the warmth retaining ratio and humidity by the material was investigated. The results obtained are as follows: 1. The warmth retaining ratio of each filling material was shown to range from
. The warmth retaining ratio of each material preyed to be high in order down> polyester> cotton/polyester>cotton>silk>wool fiber. 2. The warmth retaining ratio of each filling material decreased with the inclose of the humidity The effective reduction rate by filling fiber's was high in order wool>cotton>cotton/polyester>silk>down>polyester material. 3. The warmth retaining ratio of each filling material was shown to be in counter-correlation with the humidity, and the correlation coefficient (r=0.94-0.98) proved to be highly signi-ficant.
A Study on the Market Segmentation Approach by the Use of Fashion Information Sources
Chung Myung Sun ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 16, issue 3, 1992, Pages 257~269
In the area of fashion business, market segmentation strategy has been paid attention for the purpose of assigning proficiently marketing resources. The use of fashion information in purchase decision process can serve as a base for market segmentation strategies. The purpose of this study was to identify four segmented profiles which are labelled as Print-oriented, Audio-visual oriented, Store intensive, and Pal advice group. Objectives were to determine fashion interest, fashion attitude and apparel selection criteria from each segment. For this study, the questionnaire was adminisered to 261 teachers and data were analyzed by using ANOVA, Regression and Pearson's Correlations. The results were as follows. 1. Print-oriented group had a positive attitude about fashion and they tended to place value on aesthetic and other-oriented criteria in selecting apparel. 2. Audio-visual oriented group had a strongly positive attitude about fashion but they tended to be less active toward buying fashion products and place much more value on other-oriented criteria in selecting apparel. 3. Store intensive group tended to be active toward buying fashion products. They had a positive attitude about fashion and placed value on aesthetic criteria in selecting apparel. 4. Pal advice group had a less positive attitude about fashion and tended to place value on economical and practical criteria in selecting apparel. Based on the profile of the each segment, it was suggested to express lingual or non-lingual symbols and to create concepts for meeting the needs of the segment
A Study on Change of Clothing Evaluative Criteria According to Clothing Buying Process
Kim Mi Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 16, issue 3, 1992, Pages 271~284
The purpose of this study is to clarify the change of important clothing evaluative criteria according to the clothing buying process and to bulid the flow chart of clothing buying process and clothing evaluative criteria. The study is carried out in two ways, they are, literature study and empirical survey. The results are as following; 1. the change of the important clothing evaluative criteria according to the clothing buying process is found out. 2. The clothing buying process is that problem recognition -1 decision of clothing wearing situation
search and evaluation of genaral Clothing information
decision of price limit
(search and evaluation of brand information 1 narrowing of brand range)
search and evaluation of store information
decision of store
search and evaluation of clothings in the store
narrowing of determinant clothing range
trial, trial evaluation and decision
buy-ing (or reject)
result evaluation. 3. The flow chart is built by the clothing buying process and the clothing evaluative criteria
A Study on Bedclimate, Physiological Responces and Subjective Sensations of Bedquilts During Sleeping on Ondol in Summer
Kweon Soo Ae ; Lee Soon Won ; Choi Jeong Wha ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 16, issue 3, 1992, Pages 285~298
In this study, bedclimate was investigated depending on various bedquilts used oin ondol in summer. The environmental room condition was maintained at 26:
R.H., while the ondol surface was kept at
without heating. The types of bedquilts were hemp, cotton, quilt made of polyester padding with polyester/cotton cover. Two healthy young women were subjected for seven hours' sleep with two replications for this study. The results are as follows. 1) The range of the temperature under the mattress (
) was lower than that of the temperature on the mattress (
), or that of the temperature inside the bedquilts (
). The humidity inside the bedquilts increased during sleeping, and the range of R.H. was
. 2) The ranges of bedclimate which subjects feel comfortable were
on the mattress,
R.H. inside the bedquilts. At this range, the mean skin temper-ature of the subjects was
. 3) When there was no heating, the weight of the bedding increased during sleeping, and the weight increase was largest in the case of mattress. 4) There were correlations among the skin temperature of three points of the body (abdomen, thigh, foot) and the temperature and R.H. inside the bedquilt. 5) The effect of the type of bedquilts on the microclimate and physiolosical responses were significant. 6) Generally, when there was no heating, the body heat was transferred to the ondol floor, in summer, heat was transferred mostly through the mattress.
Apparel market Segmentation Based on the Fashion Image of Male Students
Kim Young In ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 16, issue 3, 1992, Pages 299~314
The purpose of this study was to classify male students by categories based on fashion image and to describe the resulting categories in terms of lifestyle, shopping behavior and demo-graphic variablls. Data were obtained from questionnaires completed by 791 male students in Seoul during the fall of 1991. Descriptive profiles of the four categories were developed by ideal and actual fashion image, lifestyle, and demographic characteristics. Young-Attractive and Fashionable-Harmonious types were preferred by older students while Decert-Practical and Unremarkable·Passive types were preferred by younger students. Fashionable images were more related to material-oriented, active-leisure, and sociable lifestyle factors. Fashionable and low price image factors were important in the market segmentation of male students.
A Typological Analysis of the Decorations in the 19th Century Costume: Using the Classification for the Decoration Type of Ruskin
Koo Mi Ji ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 16, issue 3, 1992, Pages 315~323
The purpose of this research is the new experimental approach to the methodology of the costume history 'study. The basic frame is structured by the concept of the type. This is developed to the decoration type of the costume, originated by the classification of the decoration type of Ruskin. Using this, the researcher could analysis the decoration type of the costumes in the 19th century. In the result, the researcher could find that the change of the decoration type had the regular orientation of the oscillation through the periods. It is the experimental frame for the analysis of the styles. But it will provide the more extensive analytical frame on condition that catagorizations are completed. And it will be able to imply to the 20th century's costume.
A Study on the Development of Functional Slacks for the Physically Handicapped Children
Kim Hae Kyung ; Cho Jung Mee ; Suh Chu Yeon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 16, issue 3, 1992, Pages 325~333
The objectives of this study were 1) to investigate the clothing needs of physically han- dicapped children, 2) to present the basic data to make the slacks patterns which meet the specific needs of physically handicapped children under study. Questionnaires were administered to 38 mothers of handicapped children and the subjects for the wear test were five handicapped children using wheelchair. The fabrics used for slacks wear test were: muslin woven with cotton, stretchable jean woven and double jersey knitted with cotton and polyester fabrics. The results obtained from this study were as follows: 1) The majority of the handicapped children were wearing ready·made-garments and their mothers considered the fabric elasticity first. 2) The slacks wear test indicated that the slacks ease of 8 cm should be added above the natural waist line in the back for the wheelchair bound children. 3) In a sitting posture on the wheelchair,
cm should be cut below the natural waist line in the front but in a standing posture,
cm should be cut below the natural waist line in the front. 4) The double jersey (cotton/polyester) slacks was highly estimated of ease ana length of slacks in a sitting posture. The stretchable jean (cotton/spandex) slacks was estimated high of appearance but muslin slacks (cotton) was less estimated of ease and appearance of slacks.
An Addition Effect of Amine and Cethyl Trimethyl Ammonium Bromide on Alkali-treatment of Polyester
Lee Jung Soon ; Ryu Hyo Seon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 16, issue 3, 1992, Pages 335~344
This study was conducted to investigate the influence of addition of cetyl trimethyl ammonium bromide (CTAB), and amine [ethylamine (EA) or ethylene diamine (EDA)] to aqueous sodium hydroxide (NaOH) solution on polyester alkaline hydrolysis, The experimental variables such as CTAB concentration, EA or EDA concentration, NaOH concentration, temperature and time were compared, and the changes in physical and chemical properties of alkalinehydrolyzed PET fabrics depending on their treated conditions were measured, The results are as follows: 1. By adding CTAB and amine in aqueous NaOH solution, increasing effect on weight loss of PET fabrics was obtained in simultaneous addition of CTAB and EDA, but not in CTAB and EA. 2. By adding CTAB & EDA simultaneously, increasing effect on weight loss was obtained regardless of EDA concentration, time and temperature, and it was more effective at lower NaOH concentration. :l. The increase of void space (or irregularly grooved surface), of softness, of wickability, of dyeability on PET fabric, and the decrease of tensile strength, of molecular weight were observed according to the weight loss on the PET fabrics. These changes were equal to all alkaline-hydrolyzed PET fabrics regardless of addition of CTAB and amine. l. There was little changes on crystallinity, thermal behavior when PET fiber was treated with ,aqueous NaOH solution with CTAB and EDA. These results supported that increasing effect on weight loss take place without inducing of fine structural change of PET fibers.