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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 16, Issue 4 - Dec 1992
Volume 16, Issue 3 - Aug 1992
Volume 16, Issue 2 - Mar 1992
Volume 16, Issue 1 - Feb 1992
Selecting the target year
Studies on the Thermal Insulation Effect of Bedding (II) - Thermal Insulation Effect of Quilt -
Lee Song-Ja ; Sung Su-Kwang ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 16, issue 4, 1992, Pages 349~355
Comfortable sleeping largely depends on human mental state, physical condition, the temper. ature and humidity in bedrooms, and qualities of quilt and bedcover. Of the qualities of quilt, thermal insulation effect plays the most important role in keeping bedroom in ample temperature and preventing human body from giving off heat. In the present study, which is a sequel study to research on the thermal insulation effect, the real-size quilts with the following items of filling materials in them are designed to research on the variation of each item, and to measure the effect of the weight variation in inner covers on the thermal insulation effect of quilts, the results are as follows: 1. The coefficient between the weight of filling materials and the thermal insulation effect of quilt is shown to be a significant
. 2. The thermal insulation effect of the quilts with in size of
is surveyed to be high in order down > polyester > cotton > wool. 3. The effect of the texture of inner covers on the thermal insulation effect of quilt is shown to be ignorably low. 4. The weight of filling materials is shown to be in correlation with the thermal insulation effect of quilts, and the estimated regression line has been obtained.
The Form of Dress related to the Ideal Beauty of Body - from Ancient Egypt to the Romantic Period-
Ryu Ki-Joo ; Kim Min-Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 16, issue 4, 1992, Pages 357~369
The purpose of this study was to clarify the relationship between the Ideal Beauty of Body and the Form of Dress, and to analyze its historical perspectives. First of all, the concept of the Ideal Beauty of Body, the definition of Dress Form, and the method and system to clarify Dress Form were depicted. Based on this frame work, the Form of Dress related to the Ideal Beauty of Body was described historically. For this purpose, documentary research were conducted and representative photography and paintings were used. The analysis was limited to the female one-Piece dress from Ancient Egypt, Greece, Rome, Byzantine, Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, Rococo, Naoclassicism, and to Romanticism. The results were as follows: 1. The Ideal Beauty of Body was found to be different throughout history and to be intimate- ly linked with fashionable dress. 2. The Form of Dress consisted of four basic components: The form of body itself, the form of clothing itself, the method of wearing, and the relationship between body and clothing. 3. The standards for classification of body form were body structure, body type, body proportion, posture, and movement. Clothing form was generally classified into flat type (unstructured type) and three dementional type (structured type); flat type was subclassified into draped type and tunic type. The method of wearing was classified into attached type, tying-up type, wrap·around type, pull-over type, open type and plastistic type. The relationship between body and clothing after wearing was generally classified into body priority type and clothing priority type. The clothing priority type was further divided into body exaggeration type and body concealment type; Body exaggeration type was further divided into upward type, downward type, forward type, backward type, right type and constriction type. 4. The pursuit of venus coelestis, metaphysical body part, ectomorphic body type, flat type clothing, body priority type; the pursuit of Venus Naturalis, physical body part, endomorphic body type, three dementional type clothing, clothing priority type proved to be closely related respectively by the historical study on the Ideal Beauty of Body and the Form of Dress.
The Effect of Garment Category, Fashionability and Wears' Body type on Impression Formation
Kim Jae Sook ; Kim Hee Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 16, issue 4, 1992, Pages 371~377
The purposes of the study were 1) to extend the cognitive categorization theory in an attempt to explain the of garment category, fashionability, and wearer's body types on impression formation, and 2) to find out structures of wearer's impressional dimension and wearer's professional image. The research included a quasi-experiment and survey. The experimental design was a
full factorial design of 3 independent variables. The experimental materials developed for the study were a set of stimuli and a response scale. The stimuli consisted of 8 drawings made by 3 independent variables (garment category, fashion level, wearer's body type). Result were as follows: 1) Garment category, fashionability and wearer's body type had significant effects on impression of the 5 factors-evaluation, potency, appearance, sociability and good-bad, with exception of wearer's body type which was nonsignificant to the potency factor. 2) Garment category was most effective on the evaluation and the potency. However wearer's body type was most effect on the appearance factor and fashionability variable was most effective on the good-bad factor. It was conclued that the results supported the cognitive categorization theory on impression formation and a cognitive categorization hypothesis of clothes.
A Study on Clothing Images: Their Constructing Factors and Evaluative Dimensions
Chung Ihn-Hee ; Rhee Eun-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 16, issue 4, 1992, Pages 379~391
This study was intended to identify the constructing factors and the evaluative dimensions of clothing images. A questionnaire consisted of 110 words expressing clothing images was developed, and eight clothing photographs were selected as stimuli. 298 female subjects aged between 22 to 37 responsed to the 110 words for two photographs during September in 1991. After survey, 110 words were reduced to 62 words based on their independence, then factor analysis was conducted. As a result of factor analysis,6 factors-grace, modernity, unattractive- ness, activeness, dressiness, and youthfulness were found out as constructing factors of clothing images. One additional interest was the effect of design line to the formation of clothing images. ANOVA identified that curved line designs were perceived to be more graceful, modern, dressy, and youthful, and straight line designs were perceived to be more unattractive and active. The other interest was the effect of image factors to the total evaluation. So, regression was used. Consequently, the most influential factor to the total evaluation was found out as grace, followed by unattractiveness, modernity, youthfulness and activeness in a descending order. To identify the evaluative dimensions of clothing images, nine words of unattractiveness image factor were eliminated, and multidimensional scaling analysis was employed. Here, three dimensions were judged to be appropriate to explain the result. The first dimension in the multidimensional space was the evaluation in 'mannish image versus feminine image'. The second was the evaluation in 'simple image versus decorative image'. The third was the evaluation in 'pastoral image versus urbane image'
A Study on Brand Image Positioning for Ladies' Ready-to wear According to Fashion Involvement - As Object of working women
Park Hye Won ; Lim Sook Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 16, issue 4, 1992, Pages 393~403
This Study intended to provide positioning strategies of brand Image for ladies' ready to wear by analysing the perceptual dimensions of working women. The subjects were devided into two groups according to the fashion involvement, and in each group, a positioning map was composed by use of multidimensional scaling. 251 subjects of this study were gathered into stratified sample groups from working women in Seoul, being subdivided according to their each occupation and age. The data were analysed by frequency, percentage, average,
, 1-test, Factor Analysis, cronbach's
. Also, KYST, PROFIT, PREFMAP for multidimensional scaling were used. The results were as follows. 1. Two groups were identified according to degree of fashion involvement: high-involvement group, and low-involvement group. 2. From the analysis of the similarity of brand image, high involvement group percieved greater difference in brand image than low involvement group. 3. From the analysis of the evaluation of brand attributes, the evaluations in self expression, fashionability, design, sales promotion activity, sociality, quality, fit showed differences bet-ween high involvement group and low involvement group. 4. From the analysis of the preference of brand image, the distribution of preference and ideal point were different between high involvement group and low involvement group.
The Study on the Sweating Responses of Adult Female according to Garment types
Yeom Hee Gyong ; Choi Jeong Wha ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 16, issue 4, 1992, Pages 405~416
This study was performed to investigate correlation between total body weight loss and local sweat rate and to find out any possible method that can estimate total body weight loss judging from local sweat rate. Twelve adult females were kept at 44
R.H. (1) Physiological responses such as total body weight loss, local sweat rate, rectal temperature, skin temperature, blood pressure and pulse, (2) micro climate inside garment and (3) subjective sensation were examined. Two types of garment such as long-sleeves with long pants (Type I) and half·sleeves with short pants (Type II) were used to observe the effect of garment types on sweating response. Both clothing weight was equal (132
). The results were as follows: 1. Regardless of the different types, total body weight loss was more interrelated with the sweat rate on forehead than any other parts of the body. Except the forehead, different parts of body with different types of garment influenced on body weight loss quite differently. 2. Total body weight loss was more interrelated with the weight gain of garment than the local sweat rate. 3. Under the environment of 44
R.H., body weight loss during 1 hour of subject clothed and silted was 275.2 g/hr and weight loss per body surface area was 178.9 g/
Garment types have no influences on total body weight loss. 4. Local sweat rate (mg/7.07
) was 208.0,191.0, 133.0, 115.0,81 0, 75.1 and 66.3 on scruff, breast, forehead, forearm, thigh, upper arm, leg respectively No evidence has been found that garment types influenced on local sweat rate (p<0.1). 5. No interrelationships between rectal temperature and total body weight loss, local skin temperature and total body weight loss, and local skin temperature and local sweat rate were found. From this study, some possible method that we can estimate total body' weight loss judging from weight loss of garment. But considering the fact that clothing design factor, the physical characteristics of fabric and environmental factor such as humidity and wind velocity should be concerned in weight loss of garment, it should be studied further whether the total body weight loss can be estimated properly from the weight loss of garment. This experiment suggest that different parts of body with different types of garment can influence on body weight loss quite differently. Therefore, in order to get more precise results, more studies under the diversity of garment types should be done in the near future.
A Study on relation to the Climatic Adaptation and Clothing Weight - In the Case of High School Students -
Ahn Pil-ja ; Choi Jeong-Wha ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 16, issue 4, 1992, Pages 417~430
To examine the effects of clothes upon human's physiological adaptation to the changes of climatic conditions, clothing weight was examined. The results are as follows; 1. According to the change in temperature, the total, upper and outer clothing weight showed remarked change. Clothing weight change was greatest between the July and October, the change was greater in the coast land and the girl students. 2. The clothing weight tends to be light under outdoor in both regions in all seasons except in July, it is remarked in inland and December. 3. The correlation between
Index, Body Fat and clothing weight was recognised to be significantly reversed. 4. Positive correlation between health conditions and clothing weight was recognized in December 5. The correlation between exercise hours and clothing weight was negatively significant in December
The Effect of Maslow's Basic Needs on Conformity and Individuality in the Clothing Selection
Kang Kyung Ja ; Suh Young Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 16, issue 4, 1992, Pages 431~441
This research was designed to evaluate the effect of need and of demographic variables of adult women on the conformity and individuality in the selection of clothes. 1. There are factors which have effect on variables of need. Marriage status, household type, age have effect on safety need, household type and age have effect on belongingness and love need. Household type and native community have effect on self-esteem need, household type, native community, school career, frequency of contact with mass media have effect on need for self-actualizing. Native community have effect on aesthetic need, and school careers have effect on the desires to know and to understand. 2. Self-esteem need, belongingness and love need, safety need, need for self-actualizing, aesthetic need, frequency of contact with mass media and income as demographic variables are directly related with conformity of clothing. Age, marriage status, native community, household type, school career are indirectly related with conformity of clothing. 3. Self-esteem need, need for self-actualizing, aestheitic need, desires to know and to understand, belongingness and love need, frequency of contact with mass media, household type have direct effect on the individuality of clothing. And age, household type, native community, school career have indirect effect on the individuality of clothing.
A Study on the Path of Clothing Satisfaction Model - brand levels and consumer involvement -
Hong Keum Hee ; Rhee Eun Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 16, issue 4, 1992, Pages 443~455
The purpose of this study is to verify the theoretical model on the clothing satisfaction. Research problems are as following; 1. To identify a causal model on the clothing satisfaction. 2. To examine the causal model by the brand levels. 3. To examine the causal model by the consumer characteristics. The empirical study of the above research problems is carried out by the longitudinal survey. The subjects selected for the final analysis are 362 women living in Seoul and Pusan. The results of our analysis are as following; 1. The main causal course of the clothing satisfaction is that the brand level and the consumer expectation
the perceived performance (
the clothing satisfaction. Those relevant variables explain
of the clothing satisfac-tion variance. Especially, the influence of the perceived performance appears to be greater than that of the disconfirmation. 2. According to our analysis, the expectation influences the clothing satisfaction indirectly through the perceived performance. Especially, the normative expectation exhibits the contrast effect on the disconfirmation, while the predictive expectation exhibits the assimilation effect on the perceived performance. 3. The clothing satisfaction model differs by the brand levels (high price brand vs. moderate price brand) and by the consumer involvement levels (high involvement vs. low involvement). The relevant variables explain
of the clothing satisfaction variance in the high price brand, while they explain
in the moderate price brand. In the high involvement group, the relevant variables explain
of the clothing satisfaction variance and
in the low involvement group. In both involvement groups, the most critical direct variable is the perceived perfor-mance. In conclusion, we find that the clothing satisfaction can be explained by three constructs, the expectation, the perceived performance and the disconfirmation. The hypothesis that the two dimensions of the expectation explain the clothing satisfaction better is empirically supported in our study. Finally, we find that the clothing satisfaction models differ between two brand levels and consumer involvement levels.
Designer's Interpretation of the Zeitgeist as shown in the Works of Rudi Gernreich
Choi Hyun Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 16, issue 4, 1992, Pages 457~470
Several scholars have discussed the relationship between fine art and fashion in meaning and expression. They have established that fashion and fine art are different branches from the same root, the Zeitgeist (time spirit), and that the Zeitgeist is materialized by various expres-sion techniques. The objective of this paper is to discuss how designers' interpretation of the Zeitgeist is expressed in their work, focusing on the 60's American society and designer Rudi Gernreich. The 60's were the period with revolutionary changes both in society itself and clothing. Rudi is the representative of the 60's designers who is called the most avant-garde and American household designer at the same time. Despite his prominent status as an avant-garde designer and social commentator, however, he has not been discussed in depth in the Korean clothing society. The consistent theme of his work was young and free spirit, and women's liberation which reflected the time he lived in. His successful interpretation of the Zeitgeist of the 60's made him establish the American-look, simple and free to move.
Market Segmentation and Marketing Strategy According to Apparel Retail Store Selection Criteria of Consumer
Lee Sun Jae ; Jang Eun Yong ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 16, issue 4, 1992, Pages 471~484
The purpose of this study was 1) to find out Market segmentation possibilities according to consumer's store selection factors by analysis of Consumer's attitude and oriteria of apparel store selection, 2) to provide marketing strategies of segment marker for apparel stores Research problems were as follows. 1) To find out the important factors of consumer's store selection and to segment markets according to their factors. 2) To find out consumer characteristics (demographic variables, clothing life factors, cloth-ing purchase behaviors) according to segment markets. 3) To find out preference store types and preference factors according to segment markets. 4) To provide marketing mix strategy for retail apparel store sales. The subjects selected for the final analysis were 586 female college students, housewives, and workers living in Seoul. A questionnaire was developed in order to measure consumer's selection criteria of apparel store, consumer characteristics and preferred store types and preferential factors. The results of this study were as follows: 1. There were 8 factors of consumer's store selection such that: the high quality, convenience, store atmosphere, economy, dependency commercials, store patronage, the conformity, product assortment. the result of cluster analysis based on these 8 factors of store selection verified that market was able to be segmented as four different market, which were the store loyalty group, the aligned economical group, the assortment pursuing group, the store fame dependent group. 2. There were significant differences among four groups, for 4 variables related to consumer's characteristics such as demographic characteristics (sex, age, job, level of education, the living quarters, marrige or unmarrige), clothing life factors, clothing evaluating criteria, and favorite fashion information sources. 3. There were significant differences among four groups for 2 variable related to store preference such as preference types of store and preference factors of store.
A Study on the Size of the Back Slit for Tight Skirts - In the Case of Walking on the Floor or Stairways -
Kim Chung Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 16, issue 4, 1992, Pages 485~493
Three kinds of tight skirts, slim type, straight type, and semi-tight type were investigated to obtain necessary information about the size of the back slit. Fourteen college students put on these experimental clothes and walked on the flat floor, going up and down the stairs. The dimensions of the back slit were measured by width and length. The stride length was taken from the record of footprints of walking. The correlation between the body measurement, stride length and the size of the back slit was studied. As a result of this experiment, the findings are as follows: 1. The size of the back slits differed from each skirt type at the level of p<0.001. In the case of walking on the floor, the average dimension of the back slit was 14.0 cm long 5.0 cm wide for the slim type,9.5 cm long 2.8 cm wide for the straight type and 2.1 cm long 0.5 cm wide for the semi-tight type. 2. In the case of walking on the stairways, the average dimension of the back slit was 16.0 cm long 5.8 cm wide for the slim type, 12.4 cm long 3.9 cm wide for the straight type and 3.1 cm long 1.1 cm wide for the semi-tight type. 3. The correlation between the height (stature, waist height, knee height) and the size of back slit was 0.3 to 0.6. The correlation between the girth (waist, hip) and the size of back slit was 0.3 to -0.5. 4. The correlation between the stride length and the size of back slit was 0.76 for the slim skirt, 0.56 for the straight skirt, 0.28 for the semitight skirt.