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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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Volume & Issues
Volume 17, Issue 4 - Sep 1993
Volume 17, Issue 3 - Jul 1993
Volume 17, Issue 2 - May 1993
Volume 17, Issue 1 - Feb 1993
Selecting the target year
A Study on Store Image Preferences which is Followed by Clothing Buying Motives (II) - As Object of Ewha Womans Student -
Lim, Sook Ja ; Lee, Joo Eun ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 17, issue 1, 1993, Pages 3~10
This study intends to provide a beneficial foundation which can aid our understanding of how a clothing consumer group can be classified according to the clothing buying motives, and what differences are there about the importances store image attribute among them and how consumer's preferences to the store image are shown differently among them and ultimately, some concrete data which can be useful in establishing efficient store image strategies for clothing stores. 484 subjects were gathered through convenience sampling method and, for data analysis, cronbach'
, frequency, percentage, mean,
-text, t-test, ANOVA, Duncan Multiple Range Test, Factor Analysis, Cluster Analysis were conducted. the results are as follows; 1. three kind of factors in the clothing buying motives were determined for analysis of consumers group and by which it was revealed as to be significant for us to classify them three subdivisions; those of fashion pursuit group, self display group, financial utilitarian group. 2. Importance on store image attribute was revealed that Ewha students regarded quality, price, more important factors than others. 3. Store image preferences show significantly when concerned with quality, price, fashion, impression and age of store personnel, convenience for exchanging and returning goods, credit, delivery and repair, mailing of catalogue and discount coupon, bightness of store among consumer groups.
A Study on Clothing Selection Criteria as Related to Status Inconsistency
Cho, In Kyung ; Rhee, Eun Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 17, issue 1, 1993, Pages 11~18
The purposes of this study were to identify the most explainable socioeconomic variables influencing clothing selection criteria, and to explore the difference in the clothing seletion criteria among the groups with status inconsistencies. A questionnaire was developed to collect data for clothing selection criteria, and socioeconomic status. Socioeconomic status was measured by education and occupation of husband and wife, and family income. Status inconsistency was defined by the inconsistencies among education, income and occupation. Data were obtained from 369 housewives living in Seoul area. The results of this study were as follows: 1) The education of housewives was the most important variable influencing clothing selection criteria. 2) When the subjects were divided into three groups according to their status inconsistency group, there were partially significant differneces among groups in clothing selection criteria. The "overprivileged" status group attached more importance to the fashionability and psychological dependence than the other status group. The "underprivileged" status group attached more importance to the practicality and ecnomy than the other status group. And when the subject were divided into three groups according to their social mobility, there were sgnificant differences among groups in clothing selection criteria.
A Study on Development of Work Wear for the Plastic House Workers
Myung, Ji Young ; Shim, Huen Sup ; Choi, Jeong Wha ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 17, issue 1, 1993, Pages 19~35
This study was designed to devise work wear for plastic house worker. It was carried out (1) research on the clothing actual condition through interviewings with plastic house worker and observations, (2) thermal manikin test to measure thermal resistance of experimental clothes and (3) clothing comparing test in the laboratory and in the plastic house. In the laboratory experiment, it was choosen general type (A) and new devised types (B, C) made of microporous fabric for experimental clothes. Experimental clothes were made of 6 combinations including 3 type work wears (A, B, C) and 2 type underwears (1, 2). In the plastic house experiment, it was choosen general types of A (without rest place) and B (with rest place), and devised type C (with rest place), which was appeared good effect in the laboratory experiment. The results were as followings. 1. Work environment of the plastic house in summer and winter was very different from the outer environment. Work motion in the plastic house was burden to the plastic house workers. 2. Plastic house workers had on the general type's work wear. 3. As a result of thermal manikin test, thermal resistance was appeared B1>B2>C2>C1>A1>A2 in orders. 4. In the laboratory experiment, experimental clothes A was appeared smaller burden than B, C. Effect of mesh underwear was not appeared in this study condition. In subjective sensation, experimental clothes C was lower vote than A. Therefore experimental clothes C was superior to A in subjective wearing sensation. 5. In the plastic house experiment, the experimental conditions with rest place were appeared smaller burden than without rest place. General type B was appeared more positive physiological reactions than devised type C but significances between two types was not appeared.
The Liquid and Viral Barrier Properties of Reusable and Disposable Surgical Gowns
Song, Min Kyu ; McCullough, Elizabeth A. ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 17, issue 1, 1993, Pages 37~47
A Study on the Costumes of the Terracotta Warriors at the Tomb of Qin Shi Huang
Kim, So-Hyeon ; Cho, Kyu-Wha ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 17, issue 1, 1993, Pages 49~62
This study intends to find out the correspondence of the costumes of the terracotta warriors at the tomb of Qin Shi Huang to the dress of nomadic people. The Chinese took the dress of nomadic people into their costumes so that they might practise shooting arrows from horse back in the Age Of Wars. The terracotta warriors at the tomb of Qin Sin Huang provide us with substantial evidence that Qin Dynasty inherited the system of wearing the dress of nomadic people from Zhao. Figures of calvarys wear the jackets of nomadic people, but figures of other warriors wear Han jackets. This means that the aim of taking the dress of nomadic people is to be convenient in practising shooting arrows from horse back. Nomadic people adjusted their jackets to left, because they road on a horse from left for being the tunga only on the left. But calvarys adjusted their jackets to right. In those days, China didn't have a tunga. So there was no necessity for riding from left. And Chinese were accustomed to adjusted their jackets to right. This is the reason why calvarys adjusted their jackets to right, though they wear the dress of nomadic people. Soldiers wear trousers. Some have puttee, some have their leg bounds. All the soldiers tightened their coats or jackets with belts which were inhereted from nomadic people. They wear either shoes or short boots. The figures are classified according to rank, espicially in their hats and armours. General wears a cap adorned with pheasant' feathers, officer wears an unadorned cap, and men are hatless or in turbans. Calvary's headgear looks like a p'ing-chin-tse which was correspondence to the headgear of nomadic people. Soldiers wear armours according to duty, and armours are differentiated by rank. From the state of terracotta warriors, I think that the warriors were made from BC 246 to BC 210 which is equal to the date of making the tomb of Qin Shi Huang. Then the date of making the terracotta warriors was between 60 and 100 years since the king Wu Ling of the state of Zhao took the dress of nomadic people.
The Changes of Microstructure, Morphology, and Mechanical Properties of Solvent Treated PET POY (Partially Oriented Yarn)
Shin, Hae Won ; Ryu, Hyo Seon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 17, issue 1, 1993, Pages 63~75
Partially oriented polyester yarn (PET POY) was treated in the unrestrained state using various solvents at different temperatures. Interactions between PET POY & solvents were estimated by the changes of microstructure, morphology and mechanical properties. The correlation between the changes of microstructure & morphology and the changes of mechanical properties was also studied. TCE, Dioxane, O-DCB, DMF, and BA were found to be active solvents, while Iso-AA and water were found to be weak solvents. PET POY was affected mainly by the solvents when treated with active solvents and affected mainly by heat when treated with weak solvents. Changes by the solvent treatment in microstructure and morphology were : an increase in crystallinity, a change in birefringence, a shrinkage in length, and a change in DSC curve. As for the changes in mechanical properties, findings in the PET POY when treated with solvents were : a decrease in stress-at-break, a change in yield stress, an increase in strain-at-break & yield strain, and a decrease in initial modulus. Changes in microstructure and morphology directly affected the mechanical properties.
A Study of Thermal Physiology for Different Garment Types in the Lower Extremity
Choi, Young Hee ; Lee, Soon Won ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 17, issue 1, 1993, Pages 77~88
The changes in body temperatures of students in physical trained and untrained colleges have been studied as a funtion of garment styles under three different environmental conditions (
RH, 0.25m/sec). Since exposures of the extremities of body affect the regulation of body temperature, two types of garments, i.e., the skirt and the slacks, were used in order to observe the effects of the garment styles on the regulation of body temperatures. The skirt exposed the calf of the leg, while the slacks did not. Because the body temperature is regulated better for healtier people, the subjects were divided into two groups. one group was consisted of 2 untrained female students, and the other of 2 healthier female physical college students. 1. The rectal temperatures for those in skirt were
higher than for the ones in slacks at
regardless of the groups. The untrained group showed
higher rectal temperatures in skirt and
higher in slacks compared to the physical trained group. 2. The skin temperatures rose with the environmental temperatures, and the skirt gave larger mean skin temperature by
. 3. At
, the untrained group felt colder, more wet, and slightly more uncomfortable for both skirt and slacks. It is concluded that the skirt is more effective in physiological defense against cold stimuli than the slacks at
, and that the regulation of body temperature takes place more efficiently to the physical trained students.
Jextile & Clothing Design During the Russian Revolution
Choi, Hyon Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 17, issue 1, 1993, Pages 89~101
The Russian revolution and the successive "art into production" atmosphere provided a unique model of a strict inter-relation between social process and innovative process in the taste. Influenced by CUBISM, RAYONISM and SUPREMATISM emerged in Russia around the time of Russian revolution and gave way to CONSTRUCTIVISM, based on Tatlin's theory, which played a vital role to combine art with social committment. One of the first question to be established after the revolution was the function of art within the new society. First, it should be propagandistic and empahsise the benefit of the new state. Secondly, art could take on an affirmatory role putting foward ideal views of the society as example to be disscussed and followed. Thirdly, the Constructivists' view, "Death to Art" was their slogan. Their view was that the artists' work in the new society was to be based on the material value and beauty in fuction as this alone could be consistent with the aesthetics of Marx and Lenin. It sould be pointed out that among the various applied arts, textiles and clothing design were considered one of the most important role in propaganda and in support of the new socialst ideas. Traditionl handicrafts provided a repository of popular images and folk art continued to assert an influence on the textiles and clothing design after the revolution. Constructivists, such as Stepanova and Popova, went to the factory as direct answer to the invitation for the art-industry rapport. Thematic or propagandistic designs were directly connected to the daily life and national transformation.
A Study on Beauty of Traditional Dress Expressed in Korean Fashion Design
Choi, Se Wan ; Kim, Min Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 17, issue 1, 1993, Pages 103~117
The purpose of this study is to clarify the adaptation of beauty of traditional dress depicted contemporary Korean fashion design. For this purpose, the external form and the internal meaning based on 'the double roots' proposed by W
lfflin were analyzed in Korean traditional dress. Documentary studies and objective studies were done with descriptive and content analytic methods. And homospatial process was devised in order to develop the traditional identity in contemporary fashion design. The results were as follows: 1. As the external form, H. O. A silhouette, chogori, ch'ima, paji, and po concerning internal type, kaftan, flat form related to structured type were represented. Traditional color sense were love of white, contrasting as well as analogous color harmony shown often in nature phenomena, and temperate achromatic color harmony. Texture were characterized as rough and coarse expressing vividness, fine and smooth expressing delicateness and tenderness. As the internal meaning, the beauty of purity related to nature, tragedy, and symbolism were represented. 2. Since 1980's. Korean fashion designers frequently applied unstructural kaftan form and H silhouette to Korean fashion design, and sought natural and pliable line in whole dress. Use of white and achromatic color harmony as well as use of linnen were prominent. Designers' aesthetic consciousness was pursuit of the beauty of nature. Representative designers who concentrated on expressing traditional beauty were Lee Shinwoo, Sul Yoonhyung, Jin Taiok and others. 3. A homospatial process could be a method in the creative design which enables to express Korean identity in fashion design, and could suggest ideas of new designs full of Korean identity by superimposed and fused imaginery.
A Study on Somatotype and Body Shape Variation of Female in the Twenties
Jung, Myoung Sook ; Lee, Soon Won ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 17, issue 1, 1993, Pages 119~128
This paper is to show the difference in body shape between 2 female groups; one group of 129 subjects is from 18 to 24 years old and the other group of 49 subjects from 25 to 29. Anthropometric somatotyping method by Heath-Carter and descriptive classification method by Sheldon are applied to classify somatotype. There is no difference in somatotype between 2 groups. The average somatotype is 443, which is the balanced type. By comparing the results of T-test, principal component analysis, and factor score, detailed differences in body shape between 2 groups are shown. The results of factor score for obesity factor of both groups are almost same and agree to somatotype results.
A Study on the Adsorption of Anionic Surfactant by Various Textile Fibers and Rinsing Efficiency in Washing Process
Park, Son Kyeong ; Kim, Sung Reon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 17, issue 1, 1993, Pages 129~136
Authors have studied the adsorption of anionic surfactant from detergent solutions on cotton fabric during washing process and have measured the concentration of the residual surfactant in rinsing solution. The relations with temperature and pre-soaking time to rinsing process have been studied. The adsorption of sodium dodecylbenzene sulfonate by various textile fibers has also been investigated. The results of this study are; 1. Three times rinsing is sufficient as, without pre-soaking, the concentration of the surfactant on fabric is stable from that time on. 2. The rinsing efficiency increases with temperature; at
, the concentrations of surfactant on the fabric after-rinsing are 68, 59, 51 mg/100 g of fiber respectively. 3. The longer the pre-soaking time, the lower the rinsing efficiency is; the 4hrs presoaked fabric shows increased surfactant concentration than the one without-soaking. And the increment is 35.8%. 4. The adsorption of sodium dodecylbenzene sulfonate on fabrics differs greatly with the chemical nature of the fiber; wool, silk and nylon which are thought to be ionic-adsorbants shows greater adsorption. 5. The adsorption of surfactant is more affected by the ionic character than the physical one, and the one with higher crystallinity such as cotton and polyester shows lower value than rayon or acetate.
A Study of the Surrealism and its Change Expressed on Dress
Choi, Yoon Mi ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 17, issue 1, 1993, Pages 137~149
The concept of style including the external form and internal meaning provides a useful structure to clarify the historical phenomenon on dress. The purpose of this study was to explore surrealism related to the external form and internal meaning and the stylistic change of surrealism through 1930 and 1988 according the linked solution proposed by Brodsky. The results were as follows; 1. In terms of double roots including the external form and the internal meaning on the surrealism of dress, first, the external form was founded to be that each objects having symbolic meaning was dislocated from its original place to dress. Second, the aspects of internal meaning intended to represent not rational and external world but irrational as well as to reveal other nature of object or dress itself. 2. The change of surrealistic style on dress was characterised as "linked solution" change theory than cyclical change theory through the historical data from 1930 to 1988 of documentary sources.
Effect of Hydrophilic and Hydrophobic Finishes of Fabrics on the Stratum Corneum Water Content and Comfort Properties
Kahng, Soo Ma ; Kim, Eun Ae ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 17, issue 1, 1993, Pages 151~161
The purpose of this study was to investigate the effect of hydrophilic finish for polyester (PET) fabric and hydrophobic finish for cotton fabric on the water transport and comfort properties. Polyester fabric was treated with 10% sodium hydroxide solution to impart hydrophilicity. Cotton fabric was sprayed with Scotch-gard
water and oil repellent finish to impart hydrophobicity. Porosity, air permeability, contact angle, wickability and water vapor transport rate (WVTR) were measured to determine the water transport properties of fabrics. To compare the comfort properties of treated and untreated fabrics, wear test was performed by putting fabric patches on the upper back: stratum corneum water content (SCWC), subjective wettedness and comfort rating were determined. The results were as follows: (1) The contact angle of water on treated polyester fabric was decreased and that of treated cotton fabric was increased. Also, the wickability of treated polyester fabric was increased and the wickability of cotton fabric was decreased. (2) Although each finish did not change porosity, the water vapor transport rate of treated polyester fabric was increased and that of treated cotton fabric was decreased slightly. (3) The results of stratum corneum water content measurements showed good agreement with the results of the contact angle and the wickability, i.e., the better the liquid water transport properties are, the less the stratum corneum water contents were resulted. (4) The realtionship of subjective wettedness or comfort and stratum corneum water content was independent. Therefore, it was concluded that human perception on the subjective wettedness or the comfort is affected by the skin contact of wet fabric rather than by the stratum corneum water content.