Go to the main menu
Skip to content
Go to bottom
REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 17, Issue 4 - Sep 1993
Volume 17, Issue 3 - Jul 1993
Volume 17, Issue 2 - May 1993
Volume 17, Issue 1 - Feb 1993
Selecting the target year
A Study on Concept Structure of Categories in the Beauty of Clothing -On the basis of Chic and Dandism-
Oh, Hyun Jung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 17, issue 2, 1993, Pages 167~175
Meaning of expressive words on the beauty of clothing is to comprehend inclusively with subjectivity and sensitivity. Suppose that meaning of the words was analysed, the study would be found type structural through a type of meaning component and inner reciprocity of elements. Category in the Beauty of Clothing was to consider various languages on beauty of clothing as the concept of the type. The purpose of this study was to clarify the concept structure of Categories in the Beauty of Clothing. In this paper 'Chic' and 'Dandism' were analyzed. As the result of the study, it is constructed at three different dimensions. They were the Beauty of phenomenone such as surface level, the Beauty of essence such as element level, and the Beauty of process that existed between the surface level and the element level. In addition, the idea words of each dimension were as follows; The Beauty of phenomenone was expressed 'refinement', 'wisdom' and 'originality'. The Beauty of essence was included 'subtlely', 'grace', and 'sence/reason'. The Beauty of process was included the method of 'harmony' and 'proficiency'.
A Study on Latitudinal Body form of Pregnant Women
Na, Mi Hyang ; Park, Jeong Mi ; Lee, Yeun Soon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 17, issue 2, 1993, Pages 177~196
By cluster sampling measurements, passing months of pregnancy according to changes of pregnant women body forms. On the basis of the above mentioned data, sizes of pregnant women clothes were decided. The results are as follows. 1. By cluster sampling measurements, sixty-nine items of apparel were obtained during the three different periods of pregnancy. They included the mean and standard deviation of body form measurement and the minimum and maximum values (Chart 3-4). The results of these surveys made it possible to notice the changes of pregnant womens' physical characteristics, i. e., the increased physical proportions: frontal waist area, umbilicus width, abdominal girth, crotch length, the length of the nipple, and body weight and the decreased proportions: omphalos height, perineum dimension. There was little change in the rear parts of the body. 2. The analized results of principle factors for body form measurements by cluster measurements produced seven major factors for which the proper values were over 1.0. They were: form factor, pregnancy factor, posture factor, breast formation factor, rear body formation factor, and nipple to nipple breadth. 3. In deciding garment sizes of pregnant women, four different sizes were established; small, medium, large, and extra-large according to the third, fifth, eighth, and tenth month of pregnancy. The measurement value of each item was produced by estimate.
Studied on Garment Restraint(III) - Relation between Clothing Pressure and Muscular Activity of Foundation -
Shim, Boo Ja ; Choi, Seon Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 17, issue 2, 1993, Pages 197~206
We studied relation between the clothing pressure applied by foundations(waist nipper, girdle, body suit) on the waist of bodies and muscular activity, feeling of tightness. The main results were summerized as follows ; 1. Clothing pressure applied by foundations was high in order of girdle>waist nipper>body suit, also clothing pressure was higher back than front and side, sitting on the chair than standing posture, ventral flection than repose. Individual differences, even if size of body was equal, were shown in clothing pressure applied by foundations with subcutaneous fat's amount in measuring region. 2. The muscular activity of rectus abdominis than obliquus externus abdominis was more affected by foundations in all kinds of postures and motions. Amplitude of electromyogram was high sitting on the chair than standing posture, but there was little difference with motion variation. The wearing girdle strongly affected on the muscular activities of rectus abdominis and obliquus externus abdominis as compared with waist nipper and body suit. 3. The value for feeling of tightness by wearing waist nipper was higher than girdle and body suit. Also the case when sitting on the chair and ventral flection, the value for feeling of tightness was high. When the foundations were on the body, most tightened on the region of the body was anterior abdominal region.
Study on clothing store selection and relevant factors - Views on clothing lifestyle and store image -
Jeong, Bok Hee ; Park, Eun Joo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 17, issue 2, 1993, Pages 207~217
The purposes of this study were to identify the components of store image of women's clothing and to explain the relationships between store images and selection behaviors. Data were obtained from 330 females who college women and office girls in Busan. Its were analyzed by factor analysis, cannonical correlation, regression analysis and discriminant analysis. The results of this study were as follows ; 1. Dimensions of the clothing lifestyle were classified individuality-seeking, information-seeking, comfort-seeking and quality-seeking. 2. Store image factors of women's clothing were identified quality, design, information service, atmosphere and convenience. The types of preference store were the general public store, the public high class store and general obscure store. 3. It appears that designs is the factors to make store image of individuality-seeking, information-seeking and comfort-seeking and information service is the one to make store image of quality-seeking. Also they were usually purchased in the general public store by individality-seeking consumers and comfort-seeking consumers and purchased in the public high class store by information-seeking consumers and quality-seeking consumers. The store images, espacially the information service image, was contributed to the store selection behaviovs more than lifestyle. But lifestyle, espacially the comfort-seeking consumers, was contributed to the store behavior of the three types of store more than store image.
A Theoretical Study on Situational Influences in Clothing Purchase Behavior
Park, Eun Joo ; Rhee, Eun Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 17, issue 2, 1993, Pages 219~231
According to the literatures of marketing, psychology, and other related areas, the situational influences on consumers' decision-making process have been significant, thus increased explanatory power of consume behavior when introduced in a research as one of the independent variables. Considering the characteristics of clothing as a consumer goods, situational influences on clothing purchase behavior were expected to be significant. As the theoretical backgrounds of situational influences on clothing purchase behavior, this study was to propose the definition of sitution in Clothing & Textiles department, and to suggest the types of situational variables affecting clothing purchase process in consideration of the results of consumer behavior research and the research related to clothing. The results of this study suggested that the definition of situation, subjective situation or objective situation, should be adjusted to the purpose of research, and that the types of situations affecting clothing purchase process might be defined into three types; wearing situation, communication situation, and purchasing situation. It was also suggested that the empirical studies would be necessary to verify the results, and the conceptual framework for the types of situations and the personality characteristics related to the clothing purchase situation should be identified.
Studies on the Preparation and Detergency of Artificially Soiled Cloth using Clay and Dyed of Oleic Acid as Model Soil
Kim, Young-Hee ; Chung, Doo-Jin ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 17, issue 2, 1993, Pages 233~245
This study was undertaken to develop the artificially soiled cloth using clay and dyed oleic acid as model soil and to evaluating the detergency by determination of K/S value and chemical analysis. The results obtained were as follows : 1. Correlation were determined between the K/S value and chemical analysis data for the detergency of developed model soil at various conditions and it was found that model soil could be extensively used for the washing examination. 2. The surface reflectance of soiled cloth with clay-oleic acid mixture was measured two wave length band that was converted K/S values and the amount of two components was individually calculated. Positive correlation were found between detergency that obtained from chemical anlysis and K/S values. Therefore, proposed method of soiled cloth with clay-oleic acid mixed soiles could be extensively used for detergency experiment. 3. The attached state of soil of on the artificially soiled cloth which was observed under a scanning electronic microscope showed a different pattern by the sort of soil. And the difference of attached state of soil had great influence upon the detergency. 4. The composition of clay was changed and formated of noncrystalinity was vanished by calcined at
. Because of a noncrystalline of clay, artificially soiled cloth could be prepared more uniformly but the detergency was decreased.
A Study of the Foundation Garment Manufacturing for the Well-Balanced Somatotype - With middle-aged womenhood -
Choi, Mee Sung ; Kim, Ok Jin ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 17, issue 2, 1993, Pages 247~264
This study deals with the manufacturing of the foundation garments for the well-balanced somatotype of the Korean middle-aged womenhood. In order to get hold of the different somatotypes, a survey of a total of 134 middle-aged women in Kwangju area, ranging in their age from 45 through 59 was made. The statistical methods used for the analysis of the basic data were the Pearson's correlation coefficient, Anova, Cluster analysis and Stepwise. Emphasis of the try-on test was placed on (1) the comparison of anthropometric data before and after trying on the foundation garments, (2) sensory evaluation, (3) a rating on fit and performance, (4) the comparison by means of photograph. The conclusions obtained are as follows : 1) The 134 women sampled and measured were classified into the five groups of somatotype : the 52 women (34%) belong to Cluster 1 ; the 22 women(14.5%) belong in Cluster 2 ; the 12 women(7.9%) belong in Cluster 3 ; the 15 women(9.9%) belong in Cluster 4 ; the 33 women(27.7%) belong to Cluster 5. 2) As for the characteristics of the foundation garment design, the V-shaped neckline and chest dart was used. The adjust point is right above the perineum point. The foundation garment length is as far as trochanteric point. The materials used are cotton/polyurethane, lace, 100%cotton. The materials used for corrections were the sponge pad for the chest, and non-woven fabric pad for the back, shoulder and the hip. 3) The comparison of the anthropometric data of the subject when dressed in foundation garments showed a significant difference in bust point height, in bust point length and in nipple-ta-nipple breadth, which proves the foundation garments to be effective in correcting such part as the chest, the hip and the abdomen. 4) As considered in terms of the sensory evaluation, the item except for the shoulder and the armhole coincided with each other in the mean value and in the composite reliability coefficient, which also proves the foundation garments to be effective. 5) Subjects were satisfactory on fit, performance, design, of the foundation garment, and their changed appearance. 6) In the case of the comparison through the photographs, the silhouettes of all the five women subjects were found effectively to be balanced.
An Exploratory Study on Apparel Distribution system and its Countermeasure in the view of Market Liberalization
Hwang, Sun-Jin ; Jung, Chan-Jin ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 17, issue 2, 1993, Pages 265~279
The channel of distribution exists for the purpose of moving product from the manufactuerer to the final consumer. In order to satisfy consumer needs, channels provide for the those products to arrive at the right place, at the right time and in the quantity, quality and price desired. Currently, there has been an emerging interest in the improvement of distribution system in many areas of industries and Korean government because of a market liberalizatiion begun at 1989 and still has processed step by step. In the wave of market liberalization, an understanding of the channel of distribution and structure would be very crucial when developing the opportunities of competitive advantages in Korean apparel industry. The purposes of this study were to investigate the determinants of the distribution channel and to identify how to respond to the market liberalization for developing the possible future strategies in the apparel industry. Data for this study were obtained from interviews with managers in apparel company in addition to a questionnaire mailed to over 106 middle management position of apparel company. Data were analyzed by using descriptive statistics. The results of this study were summarized as follows. 1. In the distribution channel of the apparel industry, a vertical marketing system, comprising producer, apparel company, retailer, prevailed without intermediaries such as wholesalers or vendors. Especially, the apparel company controlled marketing channel members. This type of system may reflect added product cost and may be not advantageous to retailers and consumers because most apparel companies are responsible for its own transfortation, storage and stocks after season. 2. In the view of market liberalization, most apparrel companies showed double-edged viewpoints. In terms of positive aspect, it would give stimulus to broaden variety of fashion merchandise and to improve product quality of fashion merchanise which were the most disadvantageous factors in competing with oversea's brands. In terms of negative aspect, it would bring the bankruptcy of small or medium sized apparel firms and the foreign products' penetration in domestic market. From this study, severel recommedations were suggested forward to improve the present condition in apparel industry. They included eliminating the power of apparel company and reinforcing middlemen for more efficient distribution system and for satisfying consumer needs in rapidly changing environment. Also it included government supports, reinforcement of information system, improvement in channel structure, and career development program in conjunction with apparel companies and academic society for improving scientific management and future potential strategies in Korean apparal industry.
Classification of Bodytype on Adult Male for the Apparel Sizing System (I) - Bodytype of Trunk from the Anthropometric Data -
Kim, Ku Ja ; Lee, Soon Weon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 17, issue 2, 1993, Pages 281~289
Concept of the comfort and fitness becomes a major concern in the basic function of the ready-made clothes. Accordingly a more sophiscated classification of the human morphological characteristics is strongly required for the effective clothing construction. This research was performed to classify and characterize Korean adult males anthropometrically. Sample size was 1290 subjects and their age range was from 19 to 54 years old. Sampling was carried out by the stratified sampling method. Data were collected by the direct anthropometric measurement. 75 variables in total were applied to classify the bodytypes. Data were analyzed by the multivariate method, especially factor and cluster analysis. The high factor loading items extracted by factor analysis were based to determine the variables of the cluster analysis for the similar bodytypes respectively. In the part of the trunk, 19 variables from the data were applied to classify the bodytypes of trunk by Ward's minimum variance method. The groups forming a cluster were subdivided into 5 sets by cross-tabulation extracted by the hierarchical culster analysis. Type 3 and 4 in trunk were composed of the majority of 55.6% of the subjects. The Korean adult males had relatively well-balanced bodytypes in trunk.
A Study on Bedquilts During Sleeping on Ondol in Winter
Kweon, Soo Ae ; Lee, Soon Won ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 17, issue 2, 1993, Pages 291~299
In this study, bedclimate was investigated depending on three bedquilts used on ondol in winter. The environmental room condition and the ondol surface temperature were maintained
. H and
, respectively. The materials of the experimental quilts were not different from each other. But the weights of cotton filler were 1.5, 3.0, and 4.5kg for the bedquilts. Two healthy young women were subjected for seven hour's sleep with two replications for this study. The results are as follows. 1) The range of temperature under the mattress was higher(
) than that of the temperature on the mattress(
) or that of the temperature inside the bedquilts(
). The humidity inside the bedquilts was 40~73%R.H. 2) The range of bedclimate which subjects feel comfortable were
on the mattress,
, 42~67%R.H. inside the bedquilts. At this range, the mean skin temperature of the subjects was was
. 3) When there was heating, the weight of mattress increased due to evaporation by heat from below, while wehght of other bedding increased. 4) The lower limbs are noted to be a good representative for the prediction of the skin temperature during sleep. 5) The thicker the bedquilt, the warmer and more humid the bedquilt, which induce frequent body movement during sleep, hence inferior comfort properties of bedquilts.
Studies on the Thermal Insulation Effect of Bedding(III) - Thermal Insulation Effect of Underquilt -
Lee, Song-Ja ; Sung, Su-Kwang ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 17, issue 2, 1993, Pages 301~306
Since the underquilt has an important role of supporting the human body in sleeping, it needs to sustain ample degrees of hardness, elasticity, humidity absorption, and warmth retention property and also to have the two ergonimical requirements : It should not be too soft to allow human bodies to sink in, and that it should be comfortable for humans to tum over in sleeping. This study aims to investigate the effect of the thermal insulation of the variation in weight applied to the underquilt. For this purpose, six items were selected as filling materials for the underquilt : cotton, wool, silk, down, polyester, cotton/ployester. Various weights were applied to each of the underquilts to survey the reduction tendency of its thermal insulation effect. The results are as follow : 1. The Thermal insulation effect of each underquilt decreased in an exponetial function as the weight on the underquilt was increased. 2. The thermal reduction curves according to the load weight insrease were shown to be constant in shape regardless of the weight increase. 3. At the weight of more than
the degree of the thermal insulation effect of each underquilt was found to be in order of down>cotton>silk>polyester>wool>cotton/ployester. 4. The variation in load weight applied to each underquilt was shown to be in reverse correlation with the thermal insulation effect. An estimated regression formula can be made on the data.
Fiber consumption in Korea and other regions of the world
Yu, Hae Kyung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 17, issue 2, 1993, Pages 307~314
Fashion Change and Social Change in Korea : A Model - Adoption and Change of Western Fashion since Kapokyungchang(1984) -
Kim, Minja ; Rim, Wonja ; Rhee, Eunyoung ; Koo, Miji ; Kim, Yoonhee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 17, issue 2, 1993, Pages 315~327
The purpose of this study was to clarify the model of fashion change related to the cyclical variations suggested by Kroeber and Young and the selected social changes factors since Kapokyungchang(1894) in Korea. The sample was drawn from illustrations and photos in newspapers and magazines such as Chosunilbo, Dongailbo, and Yeowon. Documentary research and a content analysis have been done. The results were as follows : 1. Cyclical variations in dress were apparent for skirt length and silhouette. However, Kroeber's model and Young's model that regulary recurring cycles exist did not fit the data for 1970 to 1990 in Korea. For skirt length, the cycles appeared to be approximately five to six years for 1970 to 1990. 2. Social and institutional factors tended to account for more the variance in dress dimensions than political factors.
Evaluation Method for the Water Transport Properties of Sweat Absorbent Fabrics - Water Vapour Transport in the of Human-Clothing-Environment System -
Kim, Eun Ae ; Barker, Roger L. ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 17, issue 2, 1993, Pages 329~338
The purpose of this study was to design an instrument to simulate the Human-Clothing-Environment system and evaluate the water vapour transport properties of sweat absorbent PET fabrics. The instrument was composed of sweat generating part, clothing part which can simulate clothing layers, and enviromental part. As specimens, sweat absorbent PET, regular PET, cotton, nylon and acrylics fabrics were included. For the water vapour transport(WVT), relative humidities and temperatures were measured by film type humidity sensors and thermocouples, respectively. Water vapour pressures were calculated with measured RH's and temperatures. For the liquid water transport, wickability and demand wettability were measured. Results showed that there was a difference in terms of water vapour transport mechanism depending on the fiber type ; sweat absorbent PET showed higher WVT at the transient period then equilibrated, whereas other fabrics showed lower WVT at the transient period then increased continuously. These differences are expected to affect to the difference in the comfort properties of clothings. Sweat absorbent PET showed higher demand wettability and wickability than other fabrics. Wide application of the instrument was also suggested.