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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 17, Issue 4 - Sep 1993
Volume 17, Issue 3 - Jul 1993
Volume 17, Issue 2 - May 1993
Volume 17, Issue 1 - Feb 1993
Selecting the target year
Effect of Temperature on the Surface Tensions in the Detergency System(I) -Change of Surface Tension Components of Washing Liquids-
Chae, Chung-Hee ; Kim, Sung-Reon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 17, issue 4, 1993, Pages 511~517
Changes of the surface and interface tension with temperature for washing liquids and alkanes were measured by FACE surface tensiometer. Using the extended Fowkes' equation, the dispersion and polar force components of the surface tension were estimated. The results were as follows : 1. The surface tensions of washing liquids and alkanes decreased almost linearly with the increase of temperature. 2. The interface tensions of 0.25% DBS/alkane increased slowly with the increase of temperature. In the case of nonionic surfactant solutions, however, the interface tensions with alkanes varied with the number of hydrophilic ethylene oxide(EO) groups. 3. Of the surface tension of water at
, the dispersion force component was 25.3 dyn/cm and the polar force component was 47.8 dyn/cm. As the temperature increased, both the polar and dispersion force components decreased in a similar fashion. 4. The dispersion force component of surface tension of 0.25% DBS solution was 30.0 dyn/cm, and the polar force component was 2.2 dyn/cm at
. The two components decreased with the increase of temperature. 5. As the temperature increased, the dispersion force component of surface tension decreased and the polar force component increased significantly for 0.25% NPPG-7.5EO solution. In the case of 025% NPPG-10EO, both the dispersion and polar force components decreased slowly, but the polar force component is expected to increase from
. However, the polar force component of surface tension decreased with the increase of temperature for 025% NPPG-15EO solution, and at the temperature higher than
the surface tension is expected to be composed of only dispersion force component.
Estimation of Standard Clothing Weight for Rural Residents in Their Indoor Living
Jeong, Young Ok ; Choi, Jeong Wha ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 17, issue 4, 1993, Pages 518~528
The purposes of this study are to know the environmental conditions of rural houses, thermal sensation and clothing weight of rural residents and to estimate the standard clothing weight according to their indoor living temperature. In this study, the 631 rural residents of both sexes and all generations were selected from 5 rural districts of Kyunggi, Kangwon, Chungnam, Chonnam and Kyungbuk province and the surveys which include clothes, environmental conditions and thermal sensation carried out 4 times-once in each season-from July 1989 to April 1990. The results of this study are· as follows. 1. The ranges of outdoor temperature are
in winter and those of indoor temperature are
in winter. The ranges of indoor temperature is within comfortable range in spring, summer and autumn but in winter it is below the range. 2. There is a negative relationship between indoor temperature and clothing weight(r = -0.927) and the simple regression equation is as follows. Y = -61.97X + 2048.44(Y : total clothing weight
, X : indoor temperature
). 3. There is no significant difference of clothing weight among the thermal sensation, so clothing insulation can not affect the thermal sensation. 4. Clothing weight of light-clothing-weight group is 70~75% of middle-clothing-weight group and clothing weight of heavy-clothing-weight group is 130% of middle-clothing-weight group. So the standard clothing weight for rural residents in their indoor living is estimated as Fig. 6.
A Study on the Hierarchy of Clothing Images
Chung, Ihn-Hee ; Rhee, Eun-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 17, issue 4, 1993, Pages 529~538
This study was intended to identify the hierarchy of clothing images, which is expected to be helpful in style classification and product positioning. A questionnaire consisted of 110 words expressing clothing images was developed, and eight clothing photographs were selected as stimuli. 289 female subjects aged between 22 to 37 responded to two of the eight photographs during September, 1991. 110 words were reduced to 62 words based on their independence before conducting factor analysis to identify the constructing factors of clothing images. Nine words with negative connotations were eliminated, because they are not sought in product development. To explain the hierarchy of clothing images, cluster analysis was applied. To observe the association of 53 words, dendrogram was introduced, and to interpret the result, eleven sub clusters were determined. This 11 clusters were continuously combined according to their similarities, until they integrated into one 'clothing image'. Two major division of image clusters were 'graceful and feminine image', and 'mannish and simple image'.
A Study on Moving Fitness and Slit Length in Relation to Length & Silhouette of Tight Skirt
Kim, Hee Young ; Choi, Hae Sun ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 17, issue 4, 1993, Pages 539~549
The purpose of this study was to find out the moving fitness and slit length of tight skirt in relation to its length & silhouette. Five kinds of length, micro mini, mini, natural line, medi and maxi, and two kinds of siihuette, slim & straight-a total of ten tight skirts-were investigated. Ten college students were chosen for this experiment. The moving fitness was tested by measuring the step length, step width and step angle in the case of walking on the flat and going up the stairway & bus stair. The slit length was tested by measuring the back slit length needed in the case of going up stairway & bus stair. Data were analyzed with use of SAS pakage. The statistics were based on average, standard diviation, two-way ANOVA, Pearson's correlation and multiple regression analysis. The main results were as follows. 1. There was significant difference in the moving fitness according to length & silhouette of tight skirt. The moving fitness of slim type was lower than that of straight type and the longer the skirt length was, the lower the moving fitness was. The significance appeared particularly in the case of going up the bus stair. 2. There was significant difference in the skirt length obove slit accorting to length & silhouette of tight skirt. The skirt length obove slit of slim type was shorter than that of straight type. The longer skirt length was, the longer it was from micro mini to natural line, that of medi skirt was shorter or a little longer than that of natural line skirt and there was little change from medi skirt to maxi skirt.
A Study on the Consumer's Dissatisfaction for the Clothing Product -with YWCA Consumer's claims-
Choi, Hae Woon ; Cha, Ok Seon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 17, issue 4, 1993, Pages 550~564
The purpose of this study is to investigate the consumer's claims related to clothing merchandise. By th origination stage of claims, details of claims, and treatments of claims purchasing places of clothing merchandise, the consumer's claims are analyzed which were lodged to in consumer's complaint center, Seoul YWCA, in 1981-1990. To analyze these data statistically, frequency and percentile are used. The results of analysis for consumer's claims are as next : 1. Concerning the sex distinction, female complainers are more than male complainers. About the age bracket, twenties and thirties are the most numerous. The originations of claims being various. It is laundry and dry cleaning stage out of them that rank first, and total numbers of claims for clothing products continually have increased during 1981-1990. Out of the clothing items, outerwears are of the first rank and formal wear and coat are highest in rank of outerwears. For claims about purchasing places, agency ranked first and market, department store, custome-made and discount store came after in order. 2. Concerning the contents, quality of clothing product ranks first, inferior service, price, contrast, unfair transaction ranks in order. There are claims about quality of clothing product that color change ranks first and damage and form change rank in order. 3. The treatments of claims are that counsel, exchange, refund, repair and correction rank in order.
A Study on the Application of the Apparel CAD System(I)
Nam, Yun-Ja ; Lee, Hyoung-Sook ; Cho, Young-A ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 17, issue 4, 1993, Pages 565~576
The Purpose of this study was to develop pattern drafting methods of the hip block and sleeve for female college students of 18 to 26 year-old. The study procedures and results were as follows ; 1. 313 female college students were measured, 17items were analyzed statisitcally. 2. New hip block and sleeve sloper were developed based on the result of the data analysis and fitting tests. 3. The sensory test was applied to evaluate the new hip block and sleeve sloper for female college student by comparing it with Japanese Bunka method sloper. According to statistical analysis of the result of 40items on the questionnaire, all the items showed significant difference(
) between the two, with the new pattern having higher scores. The new drafting method proved to be better fitted at all 40items, and to be comfortable.
Effect of Water-and Oil-Repellent Finish on Barrier Properties of Nonwoven Fabrics
Cho, Gilsoo ; Choi, Jongmyoung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 17, issue 4, 1993, Pages 577~586
Pesticide protective clothing has not been frequently worn due to its lack of thermal comfort. It is important to develop fabrics which can allow the wearer to work in comfort. One of the possible way to achieve the goal is to produce fabrics with a water- and oil-repellent finish which would resist pesticide penetration but maintain some breathability. The purpose of this study were to evaluate the pesticide barrier properties of untreated and water- and oil-repellent finished nonwoven fabrics. Three types of nonwoven fabrics(Tyvek, Sontara and Kimlon) were used as test specimens. By pad-dry-cure method, each of the specimen was treated with fluorocarbon. The pesticide barrier properties (amount of pesticide penetration and residue) were measured by the gas chromatography. The performance properties of untreated and treated specimens were evaluated with respects to water pepellency(KS K 0590), oil repellency(AATCC 118), water resistance(KS K 0591, AATCC 42), water vapor transmission (KS A 1013) and air permeability(KS K 0570). The results of this study were as follows : 1) The untreated Sontara showed much more amount of pesticide penetration than untreated Tyvek and Kimlon, while the treated Sontara showed little amount of pesticide penetration. 2) After laundering, the amount of pesticide residue in the untreated and treated Sontara was less than that in Tyvek and in Kimlon. 3) Water- and oil-repellent finish improved water repellency, oil repellency, and water resistance of specimens. 4) The untreated Sontara and Kimlon showed higher water vapor transmission and air permeability than untreated Tyvek. Water vapor transmission and air permeability of treated specimen decreased compared to those of untreated.
The Physical Characteristics of Elderly Women Resulting from activity Amoumt
Hahm, Ock Sang ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 17, issue 4, 1993, Pages 587~601
In the order to grasp their physical characteristics stemming from activity amount, this paper has divided elderly women into the following group ; those with high activity in the past, those with low activity in the present, those with high activity in the present and those with low activity in the present. The analyses of the body measurements and the pie chart, and the classification of back shapes by taking photographs have led to the following results. 1. The items of depth and girth among the body measurements were significant in the past and the present activity. Those with high activity in the past had smaller sizes in depth and girth than those with low activity. 2. From the pie chart, it was shown that those with high activity in the past had smaller sizes in every index as well as in girth than those with low activity in the past. Both those with low activity in the present and those with medium activity in the present had somewhat large sizes in waist girth, bust girth, hip girth and abdominal girth and in the indices of these items. 3. The classification of back shapes by taking photograpes has shown that those with high activity in the past had the less bent body type-42 percent of Type A and 6.5 percent of Type D. Among those with medium activity in the present, Type A was most outstanding and Type C and Type D were less, This fact shows that those with medium activity in the present keep the most normal body type. This proves that the medium activity of elderly women is desirable for keeping the normal body type.
Classification of Bodytype of Lower Part on Adult Male for the Apparel Sizing System
Kim, Ku Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 17, issue 4, 1993, Pages 602~607
Concept of the comfort and fitness becomes a major concern in the basic function of the ready-made clothes. This research was performed to classify and characterize Korean adult males anthropometrically. Sample size was 1290 subjects and their age range was from 19 to 54 years old. Sampling was carried out by the stratified sampling method. 75 variables in total were applied to classify the bodytypes. Data were analyzed by the multivariate method, especially factor and cluster analysis. The high factor loading items extracted by factor analysis were based to determine the variables of the cluster analysis for the similar bodytypes respectively. In the part of the lower body, 14 variables from the data were applied to classify the bodytypes of lower part by Ward's minimum variance method. The group fanning a cluster were subdivided into 5 sets by cross-tabulation extracted by the hierarchical cluster analysis. Type 3 and 4 in lower body were composed of the majority of 53.1% of the subjects. The Korean adult males had relatively well-balanced in lower body.
An Ergonomic Study on the Search of Body Surface Area Changed by Movements -In the Lower Trunk and Leg-
Cho, Sung Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 17, issue 4, 1993, Pages 608~621
The Purposes of this study were 1)to find the body surface total line and segment line significantly(
=0.05) changed by the leg movement including all movement direction of hip joint, knee joint and ankle joint for the more functional clothing. 2)to classify them into 3 types-expansion type, contraction type, expansion & contraction type, and 3)to identify the characteristics of the body surface length changes. 10 Crosswise and 5 lengthwise body surface total lines and 48 crosswise & 39 lengthwise body surface segment lines of 26 female college students aged from 18 to 24 years were measured directly on the body surface and were analyzed by ANOVA & Multiple Comparison Test (Tukey). The results were as following : Body surface total lines significantly changed were all the body surface total lines except abdoman girth, 1/2thigh girth of lower leg and ankle girth, and these were classified into 3 types : Center front leg line belonged to expansion & contraction type, whereas lateral leg line, legscye girth, and total crotch length belonged to contraction type. The rest belonged to expansion type. Knee girth showed maximum expansion, whereas center front leg line showed maximum contraction. Body surface total lines have shown large expansion crosswise whereas lengthwise they have mainly shown contraction. At least more than one component segment line of each body surface total lines except abdoman girth and ankle girth have shown significant change. Top segment of inner leg line showed maximum expansion. whereas just below top segment of center front leg line showed maximum contraction. Crosswise all the body surface segment lines have shown expansion except inner back segments of thigh girth and 1/2thigh girth of upper leg which have shown contraction. Lengthwise they have shown both expansion and contraction according to the location of front or back, and below or upper 1/2thigh girth line except the component segment lines of lateral leg line, which has shown contraction only.(cf. figure 2. figure 3. and table 2-2).
A Study on Correlation among Length Changes of Body Surface Total lines and Segment Lines -Changed Amount Caused by the Lower Limb Movements-
Cho, Sung Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 17, issue 4, 1993, Pages 622~637
The Purposes of this study were to investigate the significant correlation among the length changes of body surface total lines and between the length changes of body surface total lines and those of component body surface segment lines, and to reveal anticipated relation among body surface length changes by the lower limb movement including all movement direction of hip joint, knee joint & ankle joint for the more functional clothing making & designing. 10 Crosswise & 5 lengthwise body surface total lines and 48 crosswise & 39 lengthwise body surface segment lines of 26 female college students aged from 18 to 24 years were measured directly on the body surface and analyzed by ANOYA & Multiple Comparison Test(Tukey), and the length changes of them were calculated as the difference of the mean length at Fl movement from the mean length at each movement and were analyzed by PEARSON CORRELATION. The results were as following : 1. Correlation among the length changes of body surface total lines (1) Correlation among the length changes of body surface total lines significantly changed by the movement ; 1) The more GA5 expanded, the more GA6 & GA7 each expanded, and the more GA18 expanded, the more GA1 & GA3 each expanded. 2) The more GA15 expanded, the less GA14 each contracted. 3) The more GA7 expanded, the larger GA17 contracted. 4) The more GA1 & GA18 expanded, the larger GA16 contracted, and the larger GM contracted, the less GA16 contracted. (2) Only GA7 and GA17(at F4) showed high (over r=0.7) correlation coefficient, But others' correlation coefficients were r=0.4~0.7. (3) Correlation coefficients among & between girth items and length items 1) Correlation coefficients among girth items were shown + ; between GA3 and GA4, GA5, GA8, between GA5 and GA6, GA7, GA9 each, between GA1 and GA6 and between GA4 and GA7. 2) Correlation coefficients among length items were shown + or - ; shown + between GA14 and GA15 and between GA17 and GA16 ; but Shown - Between GAlS and GA16. 3) Correlation coefficients between girth items and length items were mainly shown - : shown-between GA1 and GA16, GA17, between, GA4 and GA16, between GA6, GA7 each and GA17, between GA8 and GA18 ; but shown + between GA1, GA3 each and GA18 and between GA8 and GA14 were shown +. 2. Correlation between the length changes of body surface total lines and those of component body surface segment lines. (1) All correlation coefficients were + except A147 of GA14. (2) Correlation coefficient over r=0.7 was shown ; between GA3 and CB3, A35 each, between GA5 and A054, between GA6 and A63, between GA7 and A72, A74 each, between GA8 and A83, A84 each, between GA15 and A153, between GA16 and Al64, Al65 each, between GA18 and A189 : but was not shown between GA4, GA17 and it's component body surface segment lines each. (3) Characteristics of correlation between the length changes of body surface total lines and those of body surface segment lines ; 1) If significant correlation of body surface total lines were expansion parts, it's component body surface segment lines was also expansion segment and the otherwise were the same. But exception was shown between expansion line GA3 and A031 (at F4), between GA18 and AlS9 (at F6) and between GA14 and A147, so to speak GA3 & lines and GA14 was contraction total line oppositely A147 was expansion. 2) The more GA3, GAlS expanded, the less A031, A189 contracted. 3) The more GA14 contracted, the more A147 expanded. 4) All correlation except the above 2), 3), the more total lines (GA1, GA3, GA5, GA15, GA16, GA18) expanded, the more segment lines (A15, CB1, A31, A34, CB3, A52, A54, A153, A169, A181) expanded, or the larger total lines (GA14, GA16, GA17) contracted, the larger segment lines (A141, A142, A161, A164, A165, A172) contracted.
The Trends of Computer Aided Design in the Clothing and Textiles Programs in U.S.A. Colleges & Universities
Choi, Hyun Joo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 17, issue 4, 1993, Pages 638~647
An Analysis on the Constructional Factor of Slacks by Lower-Limb Movement
Park, Young Deuk ; Suh, Young Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 17, issue 4, 1993, Pages 648~662
The summarized findings resulted from experiments and investigation are suggested as follows ; The analysis of measurements on the lower limb movements : For this experimentation, data was collected from three hundred and eighty female, age 19 to 23, who answered five lower limb movements(M1~M5). The statistics show that the order of the expansion ratio is gluteal area-length/knee-girth/back-line/knee-depth/thigh-depth/hip-girth, from the highest to the lowest in all movements. When comparing the correlation coefficient of the measurements, the values of the correlation coefficient of the height and the length items are very low, but those of the girth, the breadth, and the depth items are relatively high and those of the waist and the hip items are highest. For more sophisticated analysis, the factor analysis was conducted on the lower limb movements. Four factors were classified on the factor load by the "varimax rotation" method. Each movement shows the most important factor differently, as follows ; the most important factor in M1 is "the shape factor of lower limb below hip-line", that in M2 is "the cross-sectional shape factor", that in M3 is "the size factor of abdominal and loins region", and those in M4 and M5 accord with the interpretation of M3. When the investigation of the estimated function was conducted, in the selectional case of representative items on the slacks construction, it found that it would be better to add abdomen and thigh items as important considerations to waist girth, hip girth and crotch length.