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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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Journal DOI :
The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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Volume & Issues
Volume 18, Issue 5 - Nov 1994
Volume 18, Issue 4 - Sep 1994
Volume 18, Issue 3 - Jul 1994
Volume 18, Issue 2 - May 1994
Volume 18, Issue 1 - Feb 1994
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A Study on the Visual Interpretation of the Clothing Image as Clothing m Form and Dot Space Variation.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 18, issue 1, 1994, Pages 3~14
This study is intended to identify the clothing mage as clothing form and dot space variation. This study consists of pre-experiment for setting the space between dot which shows the difference of the image and main experiment and also is made of factorial design for two variables-clothing form(H-line, A-line, V-line, X-line) dot (dot 1.0, dot 2.2, dot 3.4, dot 5.8) Qestionaire consists of 21 semantic differential scale expressing clothing form and .dot. Data is obtained from 50 female students maforing clothing and textile. The results of this study are as follows. 1) The image by the clothing form and the space dot variation is composed 5 factors' attention, activity, attraction, maturity, boldness. 2) The image by variation in clothing form dot has significant differences in attractive and attention factors, especially shows remarkable differences in attention. By choosing narrow space dot for attentive image, broden space dot for attractive image, you would be able to create the image you want. 3) The image by variation in dot clothing form has almost signific and differences in all factors, especially shows remarkable differences in activity. By choosing A-line for active image, V-line for mature and fashionable image, X-line for attractive, pretty and delicate mage, you would be able to create the image you want. 4) The interaction effect between clothing form and space dot was in attraction and maturity factor, V-line, X-line, dot 3.4 and dot 5.8 intensify attractive image, V-line and dot 1.0 mature image, X-line and dot 5.8 young image.
Photodegradation of Cellulosics(Part II) - Chemical Properties of Irradiated Cotton -
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 18, issue 1, 1994, Pages 15~22
The formation of carbonyl group was dominant to other functional groups. Concentrations of both carboxyl and peroxide groups were found to rapidly reach low steady state values that increased slightly with increa-sing temperature and relatice humidity. Since the deg-radation of cellulose samples was in the initial stage and the conversion of glycosidic bonds and hydroxyl groups were very small, it was found that changes in the physical and chemical properties could be fitted to a first-order reaction model.
A study of Improvement on Washing and Rinsing Efficiency - Effect of the dissolution of detergent on washing and rinsing efficiency -
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 18, issue 1, 1994, Pages 23~30
The objective of this study was to analyze the effect of the dissolution of detergent on washing and rinsing efficiency, and the possibility of saving detergent in washing. Washing and rinsing efficiency were reviewed in three different ways : A method was to input dissolved detergent by the use of rapid detergent dissolution instrument, B method was to input dissolved detergent beforehand, and C method was to input undissolved detergent. The results were as follows 1. A method > B method > C method was shown in detergency with washing time and three method's gaps were reduced because detergent dissolution effect was reduced by mechanical action in proportion of washing time. Especially, according to detergency of A method of 0.07% and C method of 0.1% was appeared approximately, saving detergent was expected by rapid dissolution of detergent. 2. A method > B method > C method was shown in detergency with washing temperature. As the washing temperature rose, the detergent reached chemically more activated state and become easily soluble. It resulted for the detergent to penetrate and adhere to laundry easily. 3. A method > B method > C method was shown in detergency with detergent concentration and C method was more sensitive than A, B method against change of detergent cocentration. Rapid detergent dissolution made it possible not only to enhance the washing efficiency but also to save the detergent because detergency of A method in low concentration is higher than that of C method. 4. A method
B method > C method was shown in rinsing ratio with detergent input method. It indicated input dissolved detergent was advantageous in rinsing. 5. The result of anion surfactant concentration test of each process with detergent input method was shown like that A method In B method > C method in washing and reverse result was shown in rinsing. The anion surfactant concentration of C method was low during washing but high during rinsing. This was identical with previous results which shown the washing and rinsing efficiency improved with dissolved detergent usasge. 6. C method > B method > A method was shown in the degree of remaining detergent after rinsing. There was no remaining detergent after second rinsing in A and B method, but in C method four rinsings were required for the same result. Consequently, in A and B methods, less water and electricity were used, and less abrasion of cloth.
The Effect of Feeling Distance on Clothes in the Person Perception
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 18, issue 1, 1994, Pages 31~42
The purpose of this study was to investigate the effect of feeling distance of clothes in the person perception. The specific objectives were: 1) to investigate whether the compositions of clothes affect the rate of detouring, ; 2 ) to investigate whether the gender compositions of dyads affect the rate of detouring, ; 3) to investigate whether the distance between members of dyads affect the rate of detouring. ; 3) to investigate whether the distance between members of dyads affect the rate of detouring. ; 4) to investigate the .effect of the interaction among the compsitions of clothes, the gender compositions, and the distance between members of dyads in the person perception. For this study, two male and two female undergraduates were selected and wore business suit or casual wear as given by the researcher. The distance between members of dyads ranged from 100cm to 170cm with an increment unit of loom. The data from our observation were analysed by x2-test, ANOVA, and MCA. The major findings were ; 1) In male/male dyad, distance perception from clothes were affected by the compositions of clothes at all distance. In maleffemale dyad, when the distance between members of dyad is short, distance perception from clothes were affected by the compositions of clothes modes, 2) When two members of dyad wear business suit, distance perception from clothes were affected by the gender composions of dyads. 3) Distance perception from clothes were affected by distance factors at all the gender compositions of dyads. 4) In the person perception, the most imprtant clue was the distance between members of dyads. The pllysical distance, which was formed by clothes, was between 130cm and 140cm.
A Study on the Application of the Apparel CAD System(II)
Nam, Yun-Ja ; Lee, Hyoung-sook ; Jo, Yeong-A ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 18, issue 1, 1994, Pages 43~56
The Purpose of this study was to utilize of CAD System in pattern making process for women's apparel. The automation by the use of CAD System provides the higher accuracy and efficiency in pattern making process. AccuMark 300 System was used. for .this study. The results from this study were as follows . 1. New size spec chart and grading pitch chart were developed based on the data analysis and fitting tests for female college students. 2. New jacket block was developed based on the torso length sloper 3. Automatic grading of jacket block have been developed by creation and modification of grading rules of block pattern. 4. Pattern Design Systyem(P/D/S) were enabled to be constructed directly form a block pattern by modifications to existing styled pattern. 5. Original master pattern was generated by P/D/S menu option. 6. Production pattem added seam allowance, notchs was generated by P/D/S menu option. 7 Interative maker making process have enabled to save a wide range of time and space. 8. Measurement of garment by P/D/S measuring tools is to utilize in garment costing, quality control.
A Study on the Costumes in a Portrait of the Buddhist Monk of the SONG KWANG Temple.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 18, issue 1, 1994, Pages 57~64
This study investigates the costumes of the Most Reverend Priest, which shows a portrait of the Buddhist monk in Koryo dynasty, owned by SONG KWANG Temple. A surplice and a long sleeved Buddhist robe was chiefly shown up a portrait of a Buddhist monk. The purpose of this study find out the color, form, pattern, material, adornment of the costumes which is appeared a portrait, and also seek to changing process according to the times. the finding in this paper are ; * A surplice - color : red, green, yellow etc. form' big size surplice, provision surplice. pattern : no. material : unstriated silk. adornment' bolt, ribbon. * A long sleeved Buddhist robe- color : grey, blue, dark blue, pink, green, chestnut .etc. pattern : no. In comparison with a survery of previous studies of Buddhist comstumes, the color and type of the Koryo dynasty are more brilliant various color. In other words, the social status of monk in the Koryo is higher than present day.
The Painting of Impressionism on the Modern Fashion
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 18, issue 1, 1994, Pages 65~80
In the 20th century, The artistic world was constantly producing new ideas and movements and the world of fashion responded to and reflected them all in greater of lesser degree. Dress designers have always been aware of what is happening In the arts and have always been able to use the discoveries and ideas of the artist to help them solve design problems and create fashion which are new, inventive and reflective of thier time. Up to the present, other researchers have investigated the connections between the fine arts and the Modern Fashion. In this respect, the objective of this research was to clarify the characteristics of painting of the Impressionism on the Modern Fashion. In order to investigate the relationship between the trend of painting and Modern Fashion. Especially, Impressionism's light and color affected both 20th's painting and other sorts of art. That is, the trend of the modern painting, Fauvism, Cubism, Surrealism, Abstract art, Abstract Expressionism, was influenced by Impressionism painting. Similarly, in the sihouette, line, color, fabric pattern of the Modem Fashion was represented characteristics of the Impressionism Painting. The fashion's Fauve, Paul Poiret was excited by the power of color in the same intense way as the 'wild beasts' of art. The color of his clothes during that period was bold and brilliant. Gabrielle Chanel simplified the shape of women's clothes to a square cardigan and rectangular skirt. This was a cubist concept. Art and fashion probably held hands closest in the 1930s, when Elsa Schiaparelli was creating clothes directly influenced by the Surrealist thinking of Salvador Dali. And she burst upon the fashion world with a sweater that had a trompe I'oeil bow. Soma Delaunay was one of great pioneers of Abstract in. She proceeded to mix strong and bright colors into her art and created the geometric and abstract patterns of the clothes and fabrics with her strong color. The influence of Abstract Expressionism was expressed the fabrics of the Modern Fashion. Some fabrics used in Modern Fashion are printed in a dripping pouring and splashing style. For the future, some futher research to investigate the art-fashion connection might involve establishing systematic classifications for silhouette, line, texture, color of the fashion. Moreover, in order to study the influence of fine art on the fashion, a broader approach might wish to analyze the relationship between painting and other plastic arts.
A Study on the Role of Perceived Risk at the Purchase of Clothing through Mail Order
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 18, issue 1, 1994, Pages 81~90
The purpose of this study is to understand the types of risk consumers feel when they shop at home and to compare their feelings with the perceived risk when they shop at stores and the kinds of clothing frequently purchased at home. For this study, the data were collected through the questionnaire distributed to 692 carried and unmarried women. The analysis was done through the t-test, ANOVA and regression. The results are as follows . 1) Compared to those shopping at stores, at-home shoppers perceived a higher risk in eight kinds of clothing. 2) Compared to shopping at stores, product performance risk, psychological risk and time loss risk increased dramatically Among these, the time loss risk showed the most noticeable increase. 3) When the perceived risk was low for a certain item, it was more often shopped at home. Among the perceived risk types, the lower the financial risk and the time loss risk, the item was more frequently shopped at home. 4) Together with store shopping, the perceived risks when shopping at home differed according the use of clothing. 5) The at-home purchase intentions were higher in the order of at-home wear, casual wear and dress/suit. The higher the price and the more important the fit was, shopping at home was more difficult.
A Study on Establishment of the Standard Sizes for Hanbok - For 18~26 year old women -
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 18, issue 1, 1994, Pages 91~100
The purpose of the study is to investigate the actual conditions of ready-to-wear Hanbok and is to establish the standard sizes for the women's ready-to-wear Hanbok. Twelve ready-to-wear Hanbok shops were investigated for the actual survey. Body measurements were taken from May to June, 1990 from 329 female college students living in the Seoul and Buchon. The ages of the subjects were 18"26. Thirty seven measurements were taken from each subject and analized for the results. Data were analized by factor analysis, and regression analysis. The results were as follows ; 1. As a result of the actual survey, the situation of the quality label was not enough. The size classification was not unified, and was not trusted statistically, it cannot satisfied consumers. 2. Factor analysis identified the two dimensions of body measurements 1 one was relevant to the height measurements including stature and to the length measurements of limbs, and the other was relevant to the trunk girth measurements and the limbs girth measurements. 3. because of plane construction of Hanbok, employed in this thesis was bl-dimensional sizing system using two controle dimensions including height factor(stature) and girth factor(bust girth) . 4. The Multiple regression formula was developed for estimating secondary dimensions of Hanbok Construction, in which stature and bust girth were posited as independent variables. 5. As a results, about 88.6371 of expected distribution were covered by 9 sizes, which were used as the basis for defining sizing system for Hanbok construction.tion.
The Costume in the Era of Practical Science (II) - The Bukhak idea in the late of the 18th century -
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 18, issue 1, 1994, Pages 101~112
The objectives of this study are to find out the process of changes of the costume in the era of practical science, and to search the bukhak's view of the costume. Conclusions are described as follows 1. The bukhak pursued the function and the rationality in men's costumes, and healed with the welfare point of view in the commons and humbles clothes, and criticized the phenomenon of over-fashion in women's costume. 2. They contended for thrift against the luxury. But as they had also a modem thinking at the same time, they seemed to have a flexibility. Therefore they persued the essential courtesy in manners and costume. 3. The common people of Yi dynasty had the idea that Yi dynasty is a small China replace by Ming dynasty. But the bukhak had a self-existent standpoint and a realistic idea to the Ch'ing dynasty. But they would have received the Minis culture as the reactionism in the costume. Chinese envied or ridiculed the korean costume. 4. It was the pursuit of the rationality that the Bukhak presented the direction of the costume. They contended for the growth of the business and the development of technique in order to reform the clothing industry.
Effect of Cations on the Sorption and the Tensile Properties of CMC Fibers
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 18, issue 1, 1994, Pages 113~120
The Purpose of this study was to improve the moisture related properties of viscose rayon fibers. Viscose rayon filament yarns were partially etherified to make CMC fibers. CMC fibers were converted to the sodium, calcium, and ferric salt forms by an ion exchange method. The property changes of ion exchanged CMC fibers were examined. Cation contents of fibers were varied depending on the degree of substitution of CMC fibers. The strength of Na, Ca, Fe-CMC was higher than H-CMC owing to the plasticization by moisture sorption and the crosslinking by cations. The moisture regain was increased by carboxymethylation and that of Fe-CMC showed the highest value. The degree of swelling determined by the water retention value was observed to be Na-CMC > Ca-CMC > H-CMC > Fe-CMC. The solution retention value was decreased in the order . Ca-CMC > Na-CMC > H-CMC > Fe-CMC.
A Study on the Bule and Black Colors in Korean Traditional Costume - About the Categroy of Blue Color -
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 18, issue 1, 1994, Pages 121~129
A study focused on the implication of the blue and black colors in Korean traditional costume is presented. The presented study shows that the blue color in most of literatures regarding Korean traditional costume implies not only green and blue colors, but also dark blue and black colors. In a broad sense, the blue color implies a color category which includes green, indigo, blue, dark blue and black. On the other hand, the color includes blue, dark blue and black in a narrow sense. The rotor black, however, should not be interpreted as blue and dark blue because it has two bypes of black colors with and without reddish tone. Four reasons that the color blue was understood as the color black were discussed in this paper. The fundamental reason was that the blue color looked like black because of dark shadows. Secondly, there was a difference of color awareness between the color blue in Korea and in China. Thirdly, there was a color difference related to the type of textiles. Finally, other substitutes were used because of the lack of blue dyes.
Development of the Dress Form for High School Girls through Analyzing Somatotype
Kim, Hye-Gyeong ; Gwon, Suk-Hui ; Seo, Chu-Yeon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 18, issue 1, 1994, Pages 130~139
This study was performed to provide the dress form for high school girls' clothing construction which can reflect the characteristics of their body. Two hundred and forty seven high school girls aged from 15 In 17 were directly measured. The results obtained from this study were as follows ; 1. High school girls' somatotype was similar to that of young adult women. They had the features of well developed upper trunk and well developed breadth, but less developed depth. 2. The correlation between length item and the other items was small enough to interpret that each item was independent. There was a Positive correlation between depth item and girth item. And, Observed correlation between weight and Rohrer's index and breadth, depth and girth item was much larger than expected, which showed that weight and Rohrer's index influenced on fatness factor. 3. Through factor analysis, six factors were extracted from anthropometric measurements. The first factor was representing upper body volumn which expressed the characteristics of somatotype better than any other factors, the second factor was breadth, the third factor was size, the fourth factor was length, the fifth was back shape and the sixth factor was shoulder shape. 4. For development of dress form for high school girls, directly anthoropometric measurements were used. The dress form constructed through this study represented the characteristics of high school girls, therefore this would be very useful to manufacture clothing for them in the future.
A Study on Symbolism of Western Heraldry - Focused on Western Heraldry, Dress and its Ornaments of the Middle Ages -
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 18, issue 1, 1994, Pages 140~159
Heraldry, which originated from the culture of knights in the 12th century, came to be drawn on shields, and was inherited as a symbol of the family at the end of the 12th century and developed rapidly through the 13th and 14th century. Afterwards heraldry was in great vogue and used in the shields, clothes of men and women, armors, housings and flags. Therefore the citizen class as well as nobles and knights came to possess heraldry. In particular parti-color and impaled coat were accepted in the clothes, and served the dual purpose of status symbol and ornament in the 13th century. It can be said that the appearance of heraldry on the clothes was typical of the Middle Ages. The origin, generally accepted, was that the crusaders wore the surcots, also known as the cyclases, on the armors to prevent the powerful sun of Syria and dust of deserts, and to prevent the armors from rusting due to moisture. As the surcot was made of white linen or white silk till the beginning of the 13th century, knight's heraldry came to be put on the surcot in order to identify each corps. According as the coat of mail covering all the body was devised, the same heraldry attached on the shield seemed to appear on the clothes of surcot or jupon(afterwards pourpoint) in order to identify the status in the battlefield and tournament. Heraldry, a system of mark in the 12th century, was used as a symbol of authority of the upper class such as the Royal House, nobles and knights, and may have been mysterious instruments in the Milddle Ages. However, in the modern times of the 20th century heraldry has come to be a kind of symbol marks such as badges and banners symbolizing the hallmark of the goods of enterprises, organizations and groups. Heraldry, existing up to now, of the individuals as well as international organizations can be seen as a result of deep-rooted tradition for esthetic appreciation and symbolism for heraldry.