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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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Volume & Issues
Volume 18, Issue 5 - Nov 1994
Volume 18, Issue 4 - Sep 1994
Volume 18, Issue 3 - Jul 1994
Volume 18, Issue 2 - May 1994
Volume 18, Issue 1 - Feb 1994
Selecting the target year
The Change of the Physical Properties of PET Fabrics Treated in NaOH/Quarternary Ammonium Salt Compound Solution
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 18, issue 3, 1994, Pages 287~297
The purpose of this study is to investigate the Improvement of fiber surface, tenacity & elogation, fabric counts, thickness, handle, moisture regain, static voltage, handle, dyeability when polyester fabrics are treated with NaOH solution adding quartemary ammonium salt (Benzyl dimetyl dodecyl ammonium chloride . BDMDAC) The results are as follows. I. In regard to the method of processing VET, when the PET fabrics are alkaline-hydrolyzed adding BDMDAC, the weight loss of PET fabrics increased remarkably to the increse of BDMDAC concentration than when they are treated only in NaOH solution. When PET fabrics are alkaline-hydrolyzed the amount of BDMDAC as the catalyst is proper lg/1 II. The change in physical & chemical properties of alkaline-hydrolyzed PET fabrirs. 1. As the amount of the weight loss on PET fabrics increased, the void space of the PET yale increased but tenacity & elongation and thickness decreased. 2. The fabric counts of PET increased due to shrinkage by alkaline-hydrolydzing. 3. As the amount of of the weight loss on PET fabrics increased. NUMERI, FUKURAMI, increaseed and KOSHI decreased and Total hand value(T.H.V) in all cases increaseed. When the weight Ioss is 30.9% T.H.V. is best. 4. Moisture regain of PET fabrics a little increased by alkaline-hydrolyzing treatment. As the weight loss increased, static voltage is decreased. 5. The last dye absorption is different according to the degree of the Affinity. In regard to the difference of dye color, the dyestuff of low molecular weight dyed for deep color.
Female Figure Ideal and Dress Depicted on Painting of the 15th-l6th Century -About Influence of a Decrease in Population by the Black Death-
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 18, issue 3, 1994, Pages 298~310
The purpose of this study was 1) to analize the female figures with potbelly in the nude of the 15th-l6th century, 2) to find out the historic event which made these figures appeared, and 3) to clarify the influence these figures on dress. The results were as follows: 1) There was a sudden decrease in population by the Black Death in the Middle of the fourth century, so supplement of labor was urgent demand at that imp. Childbirth was the only way of supplement of manpower. 2) Therefore, the figure of pregnant woman was regarded as the female figure ideal. The artists depicted this figure ideal in nude. 3) This female figure ideal changed the form of dress. Pillow, pad, and special undergarments were used to make potbelly.
The Effect of Contexts, Clothing Cues and Perceiver's Age on Male Impressions.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 18, issue 3, 1994, Pages 311~326
The purpose of this study was to identify 1) the effect of two contexts (job interview, Informal outing) and clothing cues (type, style, color) on male impresssions 2) the effect of perceiver's age on male impressions created by the clothing cues and contexts. The subjects consisted of 256 male undergraduate students and 256 middle-aged men. The experimental materials developed for this study were a set of stimuli and response scales. The stimuli were 8 color photographs of drawings of a male figure in clothing which were manipulated in two levels, each of three clothing cues including type, style and color. The experimental design was full factorial design of
. Each of the 16 sub-samples includes 16 subjects from the two perceiver group. Questionnaires used to measure perceivers responses to the stimuli were 7-point semantic differential scales composed of 37 bipolar adjectives representing personal traits. The data was processed by factor analysis, ANOVA, multiple classification analysis, Duncan's multiple range test. The major findings drawn from this study were as follows: 1. Three factors emerged to account for the dimensional structure of the impressions of the male figure in clothing in two social situations. These factors involved evaluation, activity and uniqueness. 2. The contexts, clothing types and clothing styles had significant effects on evaluation, activity and uniqueness. The clothing styles had a considerable effect on both evaluation and uniqueness while the clothing types affected activity. The clothing color had least effect on the impression and had only moderate effect on evaluation. 3. Perceiver's age influenced impressions formed by the social contexts and clothing cues. Male college students were least affected by contexts and clothing cues, while middle-aged men wert affected most.
Hand Assessment for Women's Spring-Fall Dress Fabrics(Part 1) - Development for the Subjective Hand Evaluation Scale -
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 18, issue 3, 1994, Pages 327~338
KES-F system is widely used in hand evaluation, however, it has encountered some challenges, such as the overlapping of primary hand value, lack of predictability in case of women's thin dress, difficulties in communication due to complexity of primary hand expression and cultural differences in subjective evaluation. Therefore, this study was intended 1) to find out the Korean primary hand expressions(factors) of the overall concept of fabric hand associated with women's spring- fall dress fabrics, 2) to develope the fabric hand attributes of those fabrics and 3) to show whether there are any differences between Korean textile experts and non-experts in terms of the concept of fabric hand descriptors of hand attributes. Data base of hand descriptors were collected by extensive interview 60 experts and 10 non - experts using 110 spring-fall dress fabrics. Finally, hand of selected fabrics was assessed by 205 experts and 265 non-experts using 7-point scale of 26 descriptors based on the data base. Subjective ratings were analyzed by common factor analysis with varimax rotation. It was found that Korean primary hand expression indicated rather simple property, hence, did not equate exactly with Japanese experssion(e.g. koshi, shinayakasa, etc.) which contains several material properties. There were differences in stretch IE resilience, especially liveliness, between the judgement of non- ex- pert than to experts. Surface- related category was more important to non-experts than to experts. Slight differences were found between both groups in terms of preferred descriptors. Important descriptors as a rating scale were suggested.
Effects of Covering Parts of Body with Garments on Human Thermoregulation and Sensation(II)
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 18, issue 3, 1994, Pages 339~347
In this study the physiological significance of the upper and lower body on thermoregulation and sensation are examined. Experiments were carried out on 4 females in a climatic chamber conditioned at
R.H.. Before the measurements, subjects were exposed to 3 types of enviromental temperature: 1)
for 60 min.(ST), 2)
for about 40 min.(HT), 3)
for about 40 min.(LT) covering the upper body (U) or lower body (L) with garments. 1)
was significantly higher in L than in U only in 57 condition.
and Temp. under the clothing were higher in U than in L in all three conditions. Thermal sensation was warmer in U than in L, and comport sensation was most comfortable in HT condition. 2) When the upper or lower body was covered or exposed, the mean skin temperature of the upper body was higher than that of the lower body. Following covering and uncovering the same area, the changes in skin temperature were greater in the upper body than in lower body, and covering the upper body produced a greater difference of skin temperature between body and lower body than covering the lower body. 3) In all environmental conditions, when the upper body was uncovered, the skin temperatures of the chest, upper arms and forearms dropped to a considerable degree, and when the lower body was uncovered, skin temperatures of the legs showed the same pattern. On the other hand, skin temperature of the thinghs showed only little change in all cases except forehead and back uncovered or covered in two clothing types.
The Surface Activities of Surfactant Mixtures
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 18, issue 3, 1994, Pages 348~354
The changes of surface activities in the aquaous solutions of mixed surfactants composed of linear sodium dodecylbenznesulfoate (LAS), polyoxyethylene nonyl phenylether (PE, EO=10) and polyethylene glycol monolauryl ether (LE, EO=25) have been studied. Addition of nonionic surfactants to LAS reduces the surface tension, especially at the lower concentration than cmc. The interfacial tension of olive oil/LAS was lower than the other surfactant solutions. The removal of triolein from cotton fabrics by nonionic surfactants and mixtures is higher than by LAS. The addition of NaCI to surfactant solutions even though reduces surface tension smaller but enthances oil removal more than that of
A Theoretical Study on Time Variable Influences in Clothing Purchase Behavior
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 18, issue 3, 1994, Pages 355~367
In consumer behavior, money and time have been considered as two important resources as purchase means. Money was treated as an important research variable, but time resource was neglected as an input variable due to lack of well-defined concept and complexity of its nature. Nontheless as industralization and urbanization progress, the importance of time has in- creased. The main objective of this study was to suggest framework of time and time research methodology in clothing and textiles field. This study reviewed both theoretical and empirical research which were performed in diverse research fields. It was suggested that time facotrs, (eg. point, interval, span), should be defined to each decision process as needed, and theoretical frame should be developed accordingly. Time pressure should be included in future for more reliable survey Finally, since clothing can be a personal object, the subjective feeling and environmental factors scold be considered in research.
A Study on Clothing of American Indian
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 18, issue 3, 1994, Pages 368~386
The primary purpose of this study was to identify the diversity and embellishment of American Indian clothing and relationship between culture and clothing in American Indian Culture Areas. After the introduction of European material culture, change in American Indian clothing was conducted. The result of the Study as follows: 1. The most influential factors affecting the diversity of American Indian clothing were environmental factors. Climates and geographical features, Raw material were reflected in clothing style and clothing material in each culture Area. 2. Economic situation and life style were shown to be influential to clothing development. The best known instance of this was greatly elaborated clothing and personal adornment of the Plains who had higher stand of life and nomadic life style. 3. Religious concepts were important factors influencing American Indian clothing. Indian tribes had different ritual performance they used particular motifs in clothing. Clothing, such as "ghost shirt", Apache medicine shirt and Pueblo ceremonial clothing, served hidden pur- poses. 4. Techenology was another factor identified in this study as influencing American Indian clothing. Especially, weaving skills of Southwest played a great role in textile development. Pueblo "manta" and Navaho "bil" were famous for Indian costume. 5. European material culture allowed great change of traditional native Indian clothing. American Indian had new material, new styles, new concept of clothing. 6. American Indian, although Indian applicated European trade goods, was actually quite conservative in retaining traditional designs and modes of decoration. Asthetics and traction of American Indian were reflected in American Indian clothing.d in American Indian clothing.
Studies on Garment Restraint (IV) -Effect of Slacks Restraint on Lower Extremity-
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 18, issue 3, 1994, Pages 387~394
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles Vol. 18, No. 3 (1994) p. 387∼394 In this study, the restriction of slacks (blue jean) versus box pleats skirt was investigated, from the view point of peripheral blood flow at the toe according to motion variation and E.M.G. analysis of leg muscles after walking on the flat or going up and down stairways. Besides, the pressure of slacks on the lower extrimity was measured statically and dynamically. The main results were summerized as follows; 1. The clothing pressure applied by slacks was; each one of thigh and lower leg was 18.2 g/ cm2 and 22.1 g/cm2 in upright, 63.4 g/cm2 and 26.6 g/cm2 in sitting on the chair, on both sides of thigh and lower leg 272.0 g/cm2 over in squatting. 2. When the motion starts from upright, the dynamic clothing pressure reach their peak before the motions end. When the motion ends and the body comes to a still condition, the clothing pressure grow lower and indicate a constant value. but when the body starts moving again to return to upright, the pressures once grow higher and go to zero value after reaching the peak. The pressure on the knee show much greater than those on the hip. This can be because these pressures depend on the degree of skin stretching motion and of its curvature. 3. The surface E.M.G. in leg muscles M. rectus femoris and M. gastrocnemius were recoreded. In the case of wearing slacks, two muscles were activated much more than wearing skirt. 4. The peripheral blood flow at the toe by wearing slacks was lower than wearing skirt. Also the case when squatting, the peripheral blood flow at the toe was low.
The Types of Emotion Experienced in the Process of Wearing Clothes
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 18, issue 3, 1994, Pages 395~409
Consumers experience various emotional responses to clothing in consumption process. These emotional responses are important in explaining consumer behavior of clothing. The Purpose of the study was to identify the types of emotion that consumers experience in the process of wearing clothes. A questionnaire consisted of 35 words expressing emotion was developed. 110 female college students were surveyed to find out consumption experience of clothing. The empirical study was conducted in two ways. One is that the subjects were asked to respond six-point unipolar scale of emotional adjectives to identify the various emotions that consumers experienced. The other is that four different wearing situations were described for the survey and then the subjects were asked to respond same questionnaire. The data surveyed for research were analyzed by factor analysis. The conclusion of empirical study was as follows. The types of emotion that consumers experienced at various situstions were: pleasure, arousal, unpleasure, aversion, dominance, sandness, security and tension.
Modification of Cotton Fibers via In-Situ Polymerization of Silane Monomers
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 18, issue 3, 1994, Pages 410~418
Optimal Surfactant Structures for Cosurfactant-Free Microemulsion Systems (II) -Dialkylbenzene and Dialkylphenol Hydrophobes-
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 18, issue 3, 1994, Pages 419~428
A Study on Clothing Shopping Orientations of Consumers
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 18, issue 3, 1994, Pages 429~439
The purposes of this study were to identify shopper types by analyzing clothing shopping orientations and to compare consumer characteristics such as store evaluative criteria, perceived risks in clothing purchase, and demographic characteristics among different shopper types. A questionnaire was developed to measure clothing shopping orientations, store evaluative criteria, perceived risks in clothing purchase, and demographic characteristics. The questionnaire was administered to 453 female adults during the fall of 1993. The results of this study were as follows: 1. Clothing shopping orientations were factor analyzed resulting six factors, such as Recreational Shopping, Economic Shopping, Store/Brand Loyalty, Careful Shopping, In- dependent Shopping, and Self-confidence in Clothing Shopping factors. 2. According to the factor scores of recreational shopping factor and economic shopping factor, consumers were segmented into four shopper types: Low Shopping-involved Shopper, High Shopping-involved Shopper, Recreational Shopper, and Economic Shopper. Consumer characteristics such as store evaluative criteria, perceived risks in clothing purchase, and demographic characteristics were significantly different among shopper types.