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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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Volume & Issues
Volume 18, Issue 5 - Nov 1994
Volume 18, Issue 4 - Sep 1994
Volume 18, Issue 3 - Jul 1994
Volume 18, Issue 2 - May 1994
Volume 18, Issue 1 - Feb 1994
Selecting the target year
A Study on the Bending Behavior of Single Worsted Yarns for the Clothing Material (I) -Theory-
Park, Jung-Whan ; Kim, Duk-Ly ; Park, Jung-U ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 18, issue 4, 1994, Pages 443~451
The bending rigidity of yarn is derived in terms of physicil and mechanical characteristics of its constituent fibers and yarns structural parametrs. Theoretical analysis shows that the twist correcti on factor for the bending rigidity of yarn decreases with increase of the ratio of Young's m()dulus to the shear modulus of the constituent fibers. Also, the bending rigidity of yarn decreases as the surface helix angle of yarn increases.
Hand Assessment for Women's Spring-Fall Dress Fabrics (Part 2) -Effects of Fabric Type and Seam on Hand-
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 18, issue 4, 1994, Pages 452~459
Fabric hand was assessed for 14 women's spring-fall dress fabrics based on the subjective hand evaluation scale developed in the part 1 of this study. The effects of fabric type, seam and dress style on the subjective hand evaluation of 470 Korean consumers (205 textile experts and 265 non-experts) were investigated. Mechanical properties obtained from KES-FB system were compared with the each dimension of subjective hand expression. The type of fiber and construction were considered to be important factors in affecting hand assessment of Korean consumers, however, the presence and type of seam were not considered to be important. There were certain characteristics of subjective hand attributes for each dress style. Surface properties of fabrics, even though it is not strictly mechanical properties, appeared to be the most effective dimension in the developement of new products which appeal to Korean conssumers.
A Study on the Expression of eroticism and Modern Costume -Surrealism, Pop Art, Post Modernism-
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 18, issue 4, 1994, Pages 460~472
The Purpose of this study was to find in the art the basis of originality appeared on the fashion design and investigating the erotic expression appeared on the ornaments how art surrealism, pop art, post moderninism-formularize in the modern fashion. This study about the expression of eroticism and modren costume, through the source of pictures contained in art books and mode magazine and documents investingation has resulted as follows: First, the formality and contents that related art and fashion shows us a various aspect. That based on modeled characteristic and various technique of the art. Second, the expression of eroticism in fashion expressed differently in style, material and expression method that is more strongly, sometimes metaphorically with spirit of the time's. Third, the expression of eroticism in fashion whether direct way or symbolic way has appeared as partial exposure of the body. It is appearing to the course that can display individuality of each person over the taboo of the part and the previous limitation of fashion.
Optimal Surfactant Structures for Cosurfactant-Free Microemulsion Systems (III) -Nonylphenol and Tridecyl Alcohol Hydrophobes-
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 18, issue 4, 1994, Pages 473~479
A Study on Consumer's Perception and Attitude to Care Labels of Textile Products
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 18, issue 4, 1994, Pages 480~489
The purpose of this study is to investigate consumer's perception and attitude on care labels using questionnaire. The major results are as follows: 1. Self-evaluation on consciousness and knowledge regarding on labels is higher than actual level. In other words, most consumers answered that they understood the care instructions on labels, but actually few consumers understand the exact meanings. Married women in their thirties to forties who do the laundry themselves, and more educated women showed higher level of consciousness to care labels. However, unmarried or career women are dissatisfied with the method of care instruction on labels. Many consumers take care of textile products without considering the proposed informations on core labels. The reasons are as follows: a. they think there is no problem even if they do not follow the proposed methods b. the method proposed on labels are complicated 4. There were some cases which happened some problems even though consumers followed the instructions on care labels. It may be due to the incorrect information or the omission of some specific instruction on labels. 5. For ideal care of clothing, it is necessary for manufacturers to suggest the realistic and clean instructions on labels and for consumers to trust and follow these instructions.
A Study on Reference Groups and Their Characteristics Influencing Business Wear Conformity
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 18, issue 4, 1994, Pages 490~500
The purpose of this study was to identify reference groups and their characteristics that influence career people's clothing conformity. The responses of 714 fulltime employees subject from four different cities were analyzed. Business wear used as the stiuational stimulus. The Identificational Conformity was most influenced by friends or school seniors and juniors, followed by spuse or lover and siblings. The Normative Conformity was most influenced by spouse or lover, followed by supervisors, parents or elders, customers or business counterparts, and colleagues. And it was found that career people showed more Identificational Conformity and Normative Conformity to the reference groups which regulated their clothings, had credibility and had attractiveness.
The Impression Formation of Man's Body Revealing Casual Clothes by Male and Female University Student
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 18, issue 4, 1994, Pages 501~514
The purpose of this study was to identify the constructing factors of impression formation on man's body revealing casual clothes by university students, and to investigate the effect of revealing clothing styles and perceiver's gender on each factors of impression. The stimuli consisted of 12 color photogrphs including various styles of body revealing casual tops and bottoms; subject consisted of 310 male and female university student; subject observed 2 photographs each, ramdomly chosen from a pool of 12 and answered 37 semantic differention questions. Statistics applied for analysis were Factor Analysis, ANOVA and post hoc test. Results were; 1. Important factors constructing the impresstion of a male dressed in body revealing casual clothes were modesty, sexual stimulation and individuality 2. The styles of the body exposure and perceiver's gender had partial significant influence on impression formation.
Effects of Treatment Process and Brushing Condition on Mechanical Properties of Brushed Fabrics (Part 1) -Mecanical Properties of Brushed Fabrics-
Kwon, Hyun-sun ; Kwon, Oh-Kyung ; Sung, Su-Kwang ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 18, issue 4, 1994, Pages 515~523
This study was accomplished to investigate the mechanical properties and handle according to treatment processes and brushing condition. For this study, grey fabrics of blended ratio of polyester 65% : cotton 35% were bleached and dyed. These fabrics were then brushed 1, 3, 5 and 7 times. The mechanical properties were measured with a KES-F system and the mechanical data were then transformed into hand values by the conversion equation, that is, KN-201-MDY. The results obtained by the analysis are as follows; 1) The variation of mechanical properties was remarkable in the initial brushing of 1∼ 3 cycles for all of grey, bleached and dyed fabrics. The values of RT, 2HB, B, G, 2HGS, MMD and SMD were decreased and MIU, WC and T were increased with the increase of number of brushing . 2) LT, B, 2HB, G, 2HG, 2HGS, MMD, SMH and W of dyed fabrics which is coincident with the end use showed lower values than those of grey or bleached fabrics, but MIU, WC and T were higher 3) From the variation of hand value, stiffness of dyed fabric showed lower value than that of grey or bleached fabric. On the other hand, smoothness, soft feeling and total hand values of dyed fabric were higher. Especially, dyed fabric showed the highest total value at the 3 cycles of brushing condition.
Studies on the Detergency of Oily Soils (Part 1) - Detergency of Soild Oily Soils -
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 18, issue 4, 1994, Pages 524~535
The interaction and detergency between oily soil and surfactant solution were studied Samples used were tristearin, tripalmitin and their mixture as a triglyceride, myristic acid as a fatty acid and sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) as surfactant. The results were as follows: 1. The mixtures of model oily soils were formed of eutectic point and their melting point were lower than them of individual oily soils. 2. The formation of liquid crystalline (LC) phase was recognized in the triangle phase diagram for SDS~ water~model oily soil system. The areas of LC phase region were in the order of SHS~ water~myristir acid> SDS~ water~mixture of tristearin, tripalmitin and myristic acid (TS/TP/M)>SDS~water~mixture of tristearin and tripalmitin (TS/TP) 3. The LC phase region expanded to wide concentration range of SDS solution and high concentration range of model oily soil with increasing temperature. Particularity, the LC phase region expanded highly at
but when the temperature was elevated above
, expanding tendency decreased. 4. In the system of myristic acid and TS/TP/M contacted with SDS solution, the LC phase was already formed at
and the region of the LC phase were expanded with increasing temperature. But in the system of TS/TP contacted with SDS solution, the LC phase was not formed in whole experiment temperature. 5. The detergency of myristic acid was very high ann it was recognized that the formation of the LC phase played an important role in the detergency. The detergency of TS/TP was very for low, but when TS/TF was mixed with myristic acid, the detergency of TS/TP increased. It is supposed that the LC phase was formed butween SDS solution and myristic acid promoted to penetration of SDS solution into the inner parts of TS/TP.
Effects of Situational Variables on Clothing Purchase Types -Planning Purchase, Unplanning Purchase, and Impulse Purchase-
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 18, issue 4, 1994, Pages 536~548
The puprpose of this study were to investigate the conceptual framework of situational variables on clothing types, to find out the relationship between situational variables and personality characteristics, and to determine the effects of situational variables on clothing purchase types. A Questionnaire was developed based on the previous studies. Data was collected from 530 women living Pusan and analyzed by the factor analysis, person correlation, and discriminant analysis. The results of this study were as following; Communication situations and purchasing situations were found out to be different on clothing purchase types. In planning purchase, consumers were affected by printed and tele-communication information search and were affected by interpersonal information search in unplanning purchase. In impulseing purchase, consumers were affected by store information search. It was found out that consumers with high rational clothing involvements were affected by only the purchasing situations when they would buy clothing, but consumers with high emotional clothing involvements were affected by the communication situations as well as the purchase situations. Consumers with high self monitoring traits were not affected by the communication situations and mostly the purchasing situations. Results showed that the purchasing situation was the most significant variables in clothing purchase behavior, communication situating or purchasing situations were differently influenced on clothing purchase types.
The Laundry Habits and the Residual Soils of White Cotton Undershirts in Repeating Home Laundry
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 18, issue 4, 1994, Pages 549~559
The purpose of this study was to study accumlated residual soils which may be one of the causes for yellowing of worn cloths. Wear and wash tests of white cotton undershirts were repeated at 30 households sellected at random over a period of 60 days. Laundry conditions were similar to home laundry habits in a fact-finding survey, using a powdery heavy duty detergent containing no enzymes or enzymes. The subjects in this study were survey of laundry actual condition, the undershirts from prior to and after the final washing was measured residual soils,
value and mellowness index of CIE system. D3ta were analysed by simple correlation analysis of wear and wash cycle, residual soils, whiteness The results obtained were summarized as follows: 1. Using pattern of washing machine, Presoaking was no singinificant differnece in general characteristics of survey respondent. Laundry frequency was significant difference in income level, occupation of housewives whether or not. Use of cold and hot water was significant difference in residence shape. 2. The analyzed consequences of recognition and actual behavior in connection with laundry were found variables each other to have independence or not. 3. Amount of residual sebum soils is using non-enzyme detergent were much more than in using enzyme detergent, increased linearly with increase of the number of wear and wash cycles. 4. Residual protein soils with increase of the number wear and wash cycles less than in laundering more easy than sebum soils. Since accumulated residual sebum soils were much more than residual protein soils. 5. Increase of residual soils was raised mellowness index and diminshed whiteness. yellowness index of residual sebum soils was higher than protein soils. If increase of whiteness will be incresed, amount of residual sebum soils will be decreased sebum soils. Because amount of residual sebum soils much more than protein soils, yellowness index of residual sebum soils was more higher than that of protein soils.
A Study of Body Form Classification on Eldlerly Women Using Body Indices
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 18, issue 4, 1994, Pages 560~565
The purpose of this study was to extract information of body form's classification on elderly women. We measured 242 subjects from 55 to 75 years of age, using 27 direct measurement items and 25 body indices. We analyzed these indices with factor analysis, cluster analysis We obtained these following results 1) Through factor analysis, 4 factors (obesity of torso, location of upper torso items, length of upper torso, location of lower torso items & shoulder length) were extracted from body indices. 2) Through culster analysis, we categorized 4 clusters. Namely, type 1, characterized the best slender type, type 2; characterized obesity type, type 3: characterized middle sized type ; type 4: characterized by fat type less than type 2. We considered that type 3 is the typical type on elderly women. Since analysis using indices is very profitable, it may be necessary to design dummies and patterns for clothing manufacture.
A Study on Organization Principles of Mourning Dresses in Confucianism
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 18, issue 4, 1994, Pages 566~573
The Purpose of this study is to the organization principles of mourning dresses in Confucianism. The results of this thesis summarised as follow: The organization of mourning dresses laying stress on LiGi, the book of rites has six kinds of contents, Fushu. It is established on the rules and regulations of a religious sect in Confucianism, ZongFa. The succession ideology of ZongFaism has played on important parts in formation and conservation of the large familly system by the medium of mourning dresses with 5 classified costumes, WuFu. And the familly system in mourning dresses makes the rules in kindship category and primogeniture by WuFu grades.
A Study for Improvement Distribution Structure of Korean Fashion Industry
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 18, issue 4, 1994, Pages 574~590
The purpose of this research is to provide a plan for improvement distribution structure of Korean fashion industry. This research points out the importance of Korean fashion industry and the change of consumer consciousness which is followed by domestic fashion market and also) this study deals the present condition of fashion distribution industry in Korea, the effects of opening of the distribution structure, the characteristics of domestic's and advanced contries, the problems of them and providing the improvements. 1. Korean fashion industry is needed to change to 'the industry of living culture' 2. Promodern distribution structure in Korean fashion industry has to be turning out to the distribution industry. 3. The returning goods system and buying system of department stores in Korea have to be executed gradually and also the corporation with department stores and fashion organizations are needed. 4. The information system which can make connection from up stream to down stream is needed . 5. It is needed that renovation of technology and development of manpower.