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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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Volume & Issues
Volume 18, Issue 5 - Nov 1994
Volume 18, Issue 4 - Sep 1994
Volume 18, Issue 3 - Jul 1994
Volume 18, Issue 2 - May 1994
Volume 18, Issue 1 - Feb 1994
Selecting the target year
Effects of Treatment Process and Brushing Condition on Mechanical Properties of Brushed Fabrics (II) -Drapability and Wrinkle Recovery of Brushed Fabrics-
Kwon, Hyun-Sun ; Kwon, Oh-Kyung ; Sung, Su-Kwang ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 18, issue 5, 1994, Pages 595~601
This study was accomplished to investigate drape coefficient and wrinkle recovery of brushed fabrics according to treatment processes and brushing conditions. For this study, grey fabrics of blended ratio of polyester 65% : cotton 35% were bleached and dyed. These fabrics were then brushed 1, 3, 5 and 7 times. Drape coefficient and wrinkle recovery of brushed fabrics were measured by drape tester and shirley crease recovery tester respectively. The experimental results were analysed statistically to relate mechanical properties, handle, drapability, and wrinkle recovery 1) Drape coefficients of dyed fabric showed lower values and wrinkle recovery showed higher ones than those of bleached and dyed fabrics. Especially dyed fabric brushed 3 times showed good appearance and form stability. 2) Considering the blocked properties that contribute to the drape coefficient and wrinkle recovery of brushed fabrics, bending and shearing properties had a high degree of correlation with brushed fabrics, and 2HB/W showed a high positive correlation with drape coefficient and a high negative correlation with wrinkle recovery.
A Study on the Ease of the Total Crotch Length of Slacks
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 18, issue 5, 1994, Pages 602~614
The purpose of this study was to suggest the proper ease of total crotch length concerning both appearance and comfort. The research processes as follows. 1) For the purpose of obtaining the necessary ease of slacks in body movement, experimental slacks of no ease of total crotch length were made. Three college girls putting on these experimental slacks were examined on their back middle waist lines using cross-cut method. 2) Experimental slacks for suggesting the proper ease consist of 7 types; slacks CO, Wl, W3, W5, W7, C3, C5. The sensory evaluation for appearance and comfort was applied to evaluate the 7 slacks. The results can be summarized as follows. 1. As the leg-movement angle increased, the vertical space increased and the horizontal space decreased. There was negative relationship between vertical and horizontal space. And as the leg.movement angle increased, the area of space increased. The shapes of space showed the amounts of space and the direction of force by the movements. 2. The appearances of slacks C3, W3, C5 were better than the other slacks. The eases of the crotch were better than those of the waist line in appearance. And slakcs W7 was better than any other , ;lacks in comfort. When the amount of each part of eases was same, the comfort in eases of crotch was not as good as that of waist line. 3. In slacks, the proper ease of total crotch length was 3% and 5% of total crotch length.
Effect of Clothing Habit on Climatic Adaptation by Female High School Students
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 18, issue 5, 1994, Pages 615~621
This study was carried out to investigate the effect of clothing habit on physiological adaptation to the change of season. The survey of clothing weight in fall '||'&'||' winter for 2 years, the frequency of cold infection in winter and degree of fatigue was performed with 110 female high school students. The actual condition of clothing and the correlations between clothing weight and cold infection, and between the clothing weight and degree of fatigue were suveyed. The results are followed as; 1. The clothing insulation was nearly same to indoor standard clothing insulation in H hun wearing normal clothing, but was higher 2 clo in S hun clothed uniform. Especially in spite of similar enviromental condition the clothing weight, minimum '||'&'||' maximum and variation of clothing weight for 2 years were showed to be heavier in S hun than H hun. Also indoor thermal sensation felt by the subjects indicated "cold", and the difference between clothing insulation and standard clothing insulation showed increase gradually. 2. L group was indicated to be lower in cold infaction ratio than M '||'&'||' H group, and the correlation between clothing group and cold infection ratio was recognized to be significant (p<0.05). And H hun and L-H group showed to be lower in cold infection ratio than S hun, H-L group. 3. The coefficience between clothing weight and degree of fatigue was recognized to be significant (p<0.05).
UV-Cut Effects of Cotton Fabrics Treated with UV Absorbents
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 18, issue 5, 1994, Pages 622~627
The purpose of this study is to investigate the adsorption rate, adsorption quantities and the UV-Cut effects of cotton fabrics treated with several UV absorbents. The result of this study were as follows: cotton fabric treated with 2,2'-dihydroxy-4- methoxy-benzophenone shows more efficient than ones treated with 4-aminobenzoic acid and 2·hydroxy-1, 4-naphthoquinone in UV absorption. This may be due to the absorption of UV light by formation of intra moleculaar hydrogen bond. The formation of hydrogen bonds between hydrogen atoms of two hydroxy groups and one oxygen atom of carboxyl group in 2, 2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone would be easier than that of the other absorbents. The adsorption isotherms of 4-aminobenzoic acid and 2-hydroxy-1, 4-naphthoquinone were similar to Freundlich type, while that of 2, 2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone was Henry type. Cotton fabrics treated with Antifade MC-100 and W Cut I-2 were just alike in UV absorption, but Antifade 8001 was inferior to the others.
A Longitudinal Study on the Body Form of Pregnant Women for Garment Designs
Na, Mi-Hyang ; Oh, Hee-Sun ; Lee, Yeun-Soon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 18, issue 5, 1994, Pages 628~636
One vertical (medianus) and six horizontal (chest, bust, below bust, waist, abdomen and hip) sections of nine healthy pregnant women were examined every month by siliding gauge method during the period from 3rd to loth monthes of pregnancy. In the body changes along the passing months of pregnancy, which were observed by a follow·up measurement, there was little change on the posterior line when viewed using a vertical cross section. On the contrary, there was a great deal of increase on the anterior median line. Particularly, the degree of protrusion was great in the waist and ubilicus area due to pregnancy. At early pregnancy the distance from front to back is much shorter than side to side, however, as pregnancy progressed the front to back distance, on a horizontal cross section, is almost equal to the side to side distance.
Cluster Analysis for Foot Type (II) -The subject of the college men between the age of 19~24 years-
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 18, issue 5, 1994, Pages 637~645
The purpose of this study was to analyze the characteristics of men's foot and the foot type by cluster analysis for men's footwear. The sample size for the study was 200 college men between age 19 and 24 in Pusan urban area. There were measured 17 items of the foot for factor analysis and cluster analysis. The result was as follows: 1. The size of If items of men's foot is larger than women's foot. 2. There were 9 items selected by factor analysis. 3. The cluster analysis of the direct measurement: Cluster 1: The items of the direct measurement is all much the same to mean value of this age group. Cluster 2: The foot size is relatively small to other clusters. Cluster 3: The foot size is relatively large to other clusters. 4. The cluster analysis of indirect measurement: Cluster 1: The foot print angle is the most value and Metatarso-Phalanx angle is nomral Cluster 2: The foot print angle is middle and Metatarso-Phalanx angle is normal. Cluster 3: The foot print angle is high and Metatarso-Phalanx angle is the smallest. Cluster 4: The foot print angle is low and Metatarso-Phalanx angle is all the much same to mean value of this age group.
A Study on the Visual Evaluation and Interpretation about Clothing Form and the Surface Image of Detail
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 18, issue 5, 1994, Pages 646~660
The purpose of this study was to investigate the difference of the visual evaluation about Clothing form and the surface image of detail. This study consists of pre-experiment for selecting the method of expression among detail which shows difference of the image and main experiment for identifying the clothing image as clothing form and the suface image of detial. Main experiment is made of factorial design for three variables-clothing form (H-line, A-line, V-line, X-line), detail (frill, tape), direction (width, length). Questionaire consists of 24 semantic differential scale expressing clothing form and detail. The subjects were 100 female students majoring in clothing and textile.7he data were analyzed by Frequencey, Factor analysis, Anova, scheffe's test and MCA method. The major findings were; 1) The image of clothing form and the surface image of detail were composed of 5 factors; attractiveness, prettiness, attention, modern, young. 2) For the visual evaluation of clothing form as the surface image of detail, there were significant differences in prettiness and attention factors. For the pretty and attentive image, we should express by the image of frill. 3) For the visual evaluation of the image of detail as clothing forms variation, there were significant difference in prettiness by A-line and X-line. 4) For the effect of clothing form and the surface image of detail, main effect was significant in attractiveness, prettiness, attention, modern factor. For the pretty image of clothing, it will be expressed by the image of frill and A-line, X-line. For the attentive image of clothing, it will be expressed by the image of frill and V-line. For the modern image of clothing, it will be expressed by the image of tape and V-line.
A Study on the Surface Activity and Detergency of the Soap Made from the Waste Oil from Food Manufacturing Proces
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 18, issue 5, 1994, Pages 661~673
We have gathered a fatty acid to recycle the waste oil of food manufacturing process, and then made a soap from the waste oil by alkali saponification. Effects of the washing elements such as the concentration of the soap, temperature and time were evaluated to find out the optimum washing conditions, and results are as follows. 1. We could find soaps made from the soybean oil (A), corn oil (B), rape seed salad oil (C), cotton seed oil (D) and a soap consisting of the each oil 25% respectively (I) had the lowest surface tension at the concentration of 0.225% -0.25%. Compared with the single fatty-acid soap, the multi-component soap I showed the lower surface tension at the cmc. 2. All the samples of A-I showed the lowest contact angle for the solid material at the concentration of 0.25%. The multi-component soap of I showed higher contact angle than the single.component soaps of A, B, C and D. 3. The soap G, made from the waste oil, show lower surface tension than 5, made from the complex raw fats of the eatable fatty oil acid and H, commercial soap. 4. The washing efficiency depends on the washing time. Especially the 25-minute was found to be the optimum washing time. 5. The highest washing efficiency was found at the 0.25% cont. reagardless of the washing temperature. At 0.15% concentration level the washing efficiency reduces as washing tem- perature increases. At 0.3% concentration level the highest washing efficiency was found between
. 6. The soap made from the waste oil showed the highest washing efficiency in terms of concentration, temperature, and time. 7. The soap made from the waste oil showed the similiar concentration of hydrogen ion to the synthetic detergent. 8. The hand value of the fabric washed by the soap made from the waste oil was a little lower value than those washed by the synthetic detergent.
A Study on Properties Changes of Vapor-Permeable Waterproofed Fabrics by Laundering and Drycleaning
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 18, issue 5, 1994, Pages 674~681
In this study, four kinds of vapor-permeable waterproofed fabrics were selected and their properties and the changes of properties were investigated after laundering, petroleum drycleaning or tetrachloroethylene drycleaning (each 1, 5, 10 times). The results were as follows: 1) In the water resistance, only Gore Tex satisfied its minimum property requirements,
It decreased after laddering and drycleaning. Hipora-1000, Hipora-2000, Aitac decreased slightly by petroleum drycleaning and Gore Tex decreased slightly by all three methods. 2) In the moisture vapor transmission, three except Hipora-2000 satisfied its minimum property requirement,
.24hr. After laundering and drycleaning, it increased regardless of cleaning methods. 3) In the water repellency, Hipora-lOOG, Hipora-2000 were not almost decreased after laundering and drycleaning. Aitac decreased slightly by petrolem drycleaning and Gore Tex decreased slightly by laundering and petroleum drycleaning. 4) Air permeability of Aitac increased with increasing of cleaning times regardless of cleaning methods. 5) In the bond strength, only Gore Tex dissatisfied its minimum property requirements, 250g/cm. Regardless of cleaning method, bond strength decreased with increasing of cleaning times. 6) Color difference was large in case of Hipora-1000 by laundering, Hipora-2000 by laundering and tetrachloroethylene drycleaning Aitac by tetrachloroethylene drycleaning, Gore Tex by laundering. To diminish property change of vaper-permeable waterproofed fabric, petroleum drycleaning is more effective than laundering and tetrachloroethylene drycleaning.
Gender Differences in Fashion Awareness and Clothing Expenditures
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 18, issue 5, 1994, Pages 682~691
Analysis of Articles and Citations in the Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Seong, Hwakyung ; Lee, Ockhee ; Yu, Hye-Gyeong ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 18, issue 5, 1994, Pages 692~703
There has been a large increase in research interests in clothing and textiles area as reflected in increase of memberships of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles and the number (If issues of the Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles. The main purpose of this study was to examine the articles published in the JKSCT. Subject areas, funding source, length of article, and authors were examined for all articles published from 1977 to 1992. References were examined for the articles published in five selected years. The results showed that papers in textiles and sociopsychological areas accounted for approximately 40% of all articles, while the number of articles in fashion marketing has increased significantly in recent years. Professional jounals were quoted most often followed by books. Importance of master's thesis of PhD dissertation was a unique phenomenon appeared in the JKSTC. The JKSTC was the most often quoted journal, even though wide variety of journals were used in different subject areas. Some suggestions to improve the JKSTC and research in clothing and textiles area are made based on the results of this study.
Influence of Country-of-Origin on American Consumers' Evaluation of Apparel Products Made in Korea
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 18, issue 5, 1994, Pages 704~715
The Type of Appeal and Constituent Unit's Expression of Apparel Advertising Appeared in Women's Magazines (I)
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 18, issue 5, 1994, Pages 716~726
The present study was conducted to analyze the type of appeal and constituent unit's expression of apparel advertising appeared in women's magazine through content analysis. The research questions raised for this study were: (1) Are there any differences in the type of appeal between outwear and uderwear, men's and women's outwear, and formal wear and casual wear advertising ? (2) Are there any differences in the type of appeal and constituent unit's expression of apparel advertising between the late of 1980's and the begining of 1990's ? "Women Sense", founded on August 1988, was used as research materials for the study. And the period of analysis was from September 1988 to March 1993. In order to reduce biases of monthly issues in magazine, the apparel advertisements for analysis were selected from March, June, September and December issues. A total of 348 apparel advertisements were analyzed. The data gethered were analyzed using the frequency table, percentage and chi-square test. The results were as follows: 1. The emotional appeal was used more often for apparel advertisements. 2. There was no difference in types of appeal between men's and women's outwear. Both of them frequently used emotional appeal type 3. Rational appeal and sex appeal type were used more frequently in underwear advertising than in outwear advertisements. 4. It was emotional appeal type that usually used in both formal and casual wear advertising, and sex appeal was employed more often in casual wear advertising than in formal wear advertising. 5. Romantic appeal was employed more aften in the late of 1980's than in the begining of 1990's. Sex appeal and rational appeal were used more often in the beginning of 1990's than in the late of 1980's. 6. Emotional (28.7%) and Assertion Propose Headlines (21.6%) were popular in the late of 1980's. 7. Brand Name Headline was shown most often in the begining of 1990's. 8. Emotional, Factual and Mixed Copies were generally used at all types of bodycopy. while there was no difference in types of bodycopy between the periods. 9. Direct Approach, that a model introduced advertising goods to consumer, was mainly used in illustration. There was no difference in different types of illustration between the periods.
A Study On the Concept of Lightness in Fashion of the Early 1990's
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 18, issue 5, 1994, Pages 727~738
It has been representing the delicate changes which express new sentiments through the floating, fluid, free look with the transparent, sheer material in fashion during the early 1990's. The concept of lightness is selected to describe the phenomenon of recent fashion. The purpose of this study is to identify the distinctive characteristics of lightness as external forms and internal meaning in fashion of the early 1990's. The data were collected from fashion magazines such as American Vogue, Italian Vogue from 1987 to 1994. The characteristics of lightness of fashion in the early 1990's are as follows; The external forms are consisted of the material such as the transparent, sheer, soft material, of slim and bell silhouette which occupying the more space in bottom, of the drapery, pleats to shape the unfitted look and is identified as the open, whole, indeterminate and planar intergration form according to the category of clothing form suggested by Belong. It is also the reflection of the social changes which is getting out of the modernity. It is the results of the dominant social state which are diffused the sensual pleasures, transitoriness.
A Study of Folk Costume Culture (I) -Field Research Around The Mt. Kumo Area-
Lee, Eun-Joo ; Hong, Na-Young ; Im, Jae-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 18, issue 5, 1994, Pages 739~748
These days the Korean costume becomes the formal dress to be worn on particular occasions. The Westernization of life style, inculding dress, has made the costume of wearing traditional dress disappear from Korean's everyday life. This study is launched to investigate the precious textiles and materials of the past before they vanish; this study deals with the materials of folk costume in the early 20th century, preceding Westernization. The research method adopted in the study was interviews of fifth- five elderly persons living around the Mt. Kumo area in Gyungbuk province. The result was that costume culture in that area was poor because people living in the area were economically less well off due to meager agricultural products. There was no variety in the style of costumes to be worn for various occasions. It was also nothworthy that because of no diversification in naming, only one representative word was used to name several types of costumes. On the other hand, it was discovered that the people in the Mt. Kumo area had religious aspirations stemming from their folk beliefs concerning costumes. They also had an attitude of saving money despite poor economic conditions.
A Study on a Clothing Purchase Process Model Using Images of Clothing Merchandise
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 18, issue 5, 1994, Pages 749~764
It was assumed that a consumer forms images of all the factors related to clothing merchandise such as trademarks, stores, products and prices that he/she perceives in the market and those images deforming his/her preference for a particular piece of clothes and intention of purchase. Under this assumption, this research was designed to find out important factors of clothes that help a consumer form an image of the clothes, among other attributes of the merchandise, and how this image is related to the existing extraneous variables such as the trademark image, the consumer's self image, the price, etc. in leading the consumer to purchase the particular clothes in the end. In the empirical research, a preliminary survey was conducted to select brands of womenswear that were suitable for this study and as the result, 16 brands were chosen. Then one trademark, one store and two products from each of the 16 brands were selected. With these materials, 32 stimulus sheets were prepared, and each of them was composed of 3 photos of a brand's catalog and logo, the interior of a selected store that carried products of the brand, and formal suits selected from each brand's spring/summer 1993 collections. Subjects were 460 women in the age groups of 20-50s who live in Seoul Metropolitan area. Each of the subjects was provided with a survey questionnaire and 16 stimulus sheets. The main findings of this research prove that consumers follow a certain selection process model when they purchase clothes: consumers, first, from images of merchandise based on the trademarks, stares, and products and those formed images work il.: medium variables and in the end they help the consumers decide whether to buy the products.