Go to the main menu
Skip to content
Go to bottom
REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 19, Issue 6 - Nov 1995
Volume 19, Issue 5 - Sep 1995
Volume 19, Issue 4 - Jul 1995
Volume 19, Issue 3 - May 1995
Volume 19, Issue 2 - Mar 1995
Volume 19, Issue 1 - Jan 1995
Selecting the target year
A Study on the American Hippies and Their Fashion
Seo, Yoo Lee ; Cho, Kyu Wha ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 19, issue 2, 1995, Pages 108~108
This study, on the American hippies and their fashion, is composed of an examination of the following; the social and cultural circumstances of America in the late 1960's, the charac? teristics of the hippies that appeared in the midst of the foresaid background, how those factors materialized in the hippies' distinctive fashion and how they influenced tahion to come. The hippies were composed of the young generation that revolted against all general conventional values of American society and seceded from it, seeking for the ideas of love and freedom. They expressed their newly defined culture-rock music based on drug culture, psychedelic art, rejection of an established society and ethnic tastes that sprang up from nostalgia concerning nature-by means of their own distinctive fashion. And as a revival of the hippies' fashion, neo-hippie and grunge fashions newly appeared in the F /W season of 1992 and afterwards, adding fresher and more abundant sensibility to the original image and layered look of the hippies. The hippies' fashion has not only played a significant part in modem fashion history but will continue to exert its influence in the 1990's as the hippies generation are presently the center of American culture and leaders of world culture. In conclusion, various sorts of "individ- uality" and "the pleasure in the wearing itself" expressed by the original layering of the hippies' fashion presents new promise in the coming development at fashion.
The Concept of Ugliness Expressed in Modern Dress -Form the Middle of 1980's to 1994-
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 19, issue 2, 1995, Pages 173~189
purpose of this study is to analyze the various phenomenon related to the subjectivism of aesthetic value for dress, which is impossible to describe with only functionalism, practically and objectivism of aesthetic value for dress based on Karl Rosencrantz\ulcorners theory of the Aesthetics of ugliness from the middle of 1980's to present. In other words, the ugliness had been selected and erected as the opposite meaning of beauty to head toward ultimate beauty, and clarify that ultimate beauty is achieved through the combination of beauty is achieved through the combination of beauty and ugliness. First, the ugliness and Rosencrantz\ulcorners theory of the Aesthetics of Ugliness had been examined theoretically in the aspect of the subjectivism of aesthetic value for dress and aesthetic category. The relationship between the artistic styles related to ugliness, such as Avant-garde, Primitivism of Expressionism, Grotesque, Decadence, Kitsch, Pastich\ulcornerParody, from the late 19c to present, and the dresses representing the ugly look such as Cyber Punk, Exotic look, Detester, Grunge, Hip-hop, etc, of 1990's had been studied by using photographic materials. In this study, the basic concepts of ugliness, including formlessness, inaccuracy and deformation, formed by K. Rosencrantz had been used to reveal the interaction between modem costume and the theory of ugliness.
A Study on the Expression of Optical lIIusion in Textile Design
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 19, issue 2, 1995, Pages 190~202
The Optical Art is based on the principle of visual perception of the illusionary effects which induce psychological responses. It has influenced greatly on the Texile Design in that unique iJlusionary creativity of pattern simulates the visual sense of special movement; the dynamic psylosophy of vitalism. The Optical pattern has become a highly valued item due to its innovative effect in aesthetic direction. According to Vitor Vasarely the pioneer in this area, the integration and the inseparability of form and color which he calls 'Plastic Unity' provides the basis for the composition of infinite variety. The composition of infinite variety. The composition reveals the complex interaction between the space and form relating to order, repetition, combination and permutation. It is not simple to create optical patterns due to the extreme complexity composed by the multi-dimension and the infusion of form and color giving immensely varied movement. The purposes of this study are as follows; 1) to classify the complex processes of optical pattern on the basis of formative method. 2) to develop creative ideas for progressive contemporary textile design In this study, the analysis of applied methods is concentrated, which is based 1) on the gradual modification and on the transformation of the basic plastic elements which depend on thle direction of visual points involVing contradictory perspectives 2) on the composition varied special situations by repeating, overlapping and converging a series of idetUical units or by means of irrdiation, radiation and etc.
Research Methodology on the Symbolism of Ritual Dress and Its Applications
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 19, issue 2, 1995, Pages 203~215
The funning process in the symbolism of dress can be approached by the semiotics of C. S. Pierce. According to Pearce\ulcorners theory, symbiosis consists of sign, its object, and interpret ant. Especially Pierce classifies the sign into three categories; icon, index, and symbol. The icon is based on the similarity in properties and forms, and the index is based on the actual connection with their objects, while the symbol is based on the association of interpret ant. This classification method can be considered as a theoretical base for symbol of ritual dress. On the other hand, it was discussed the analyzing method of the concept of dress same (symbolic element) by introducing the isolate concept of structuralism for explaining how the symbol reveals itself. So it is discussed the several concepts of structuralism; the concept of relation syntagmatique and relation paradigmatique, the relation binaries, and the units. It would be also necessary to consider dimension of context in addition to dimension of dress itself for the dimension of total symbolic elements of ritual dress. It is proposed that the above developed dress symbol elements should be used for under\ulcornerstanding the society or culture that includes the elements by introducing the symbolic anthropology such as V. Turner's three dimensions of symbol.
Development and Validation of Ready？Made Clothes Consumer Anxiety Scale
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 19, issue 2, 1995, Pages 216~229
The main purpose of this study was to develop and validate a scale for measuring situation\ulcornerspecific anxiety that consumers experience while shopping for ready\ulcornerto-wear clothes. A 92 five-point items, Likert type scale, entitled the RMCCAS(The Ready\ulcornerMade Clothes Consumer Anxiety Scale) was developed and administered to 354 female college students. Data collected were subjected to a series of statistical analysis: item analysis, factor analysis, estimation of validity and reliability and descriptive statistics. A second-order factor analysis conducted to 15 factors obtained from a first-order factor analysis yieled three factors; Fitness of Fashion and Design to indiviuality and time(scale 1), Reliance on Price and Quality including Suitableness of Material and Color(scale 2), and Practicality in Dressing and Maintaining(scale 3). Obtained concurrent validity of the RMCCAS subscales with the trait anxiety were .056(subscale I), .082(subscale 2), .033(subscale 3), and .050(total scale). that with state anxiety were .421(subscale I), .217(subscale 2), .198 (subscale 3), and .407(total scale); that with the CP AS were. 721(subscale 1), .789(subscale 2), .570(subscale 3), and .841(total scale). All of the obtained coefficients of Cronbach alpha, split\ulcornerhalf reliability, and test-retested reliability over an interval of. 8 weeks were above .80. Besides, descriptive data from the RMCCAS satisfactorily supported conditions required for the normal distribution of obtained scores. In conclusion, a close exa:nination of validity, reliability, and descriptive statistics of the RMCCAS indicates that three subscales including the scale have a resonable scaling-prop\ulcornererties. Further research is suggested for obtaining norms for more representative target samples and for tapping the possibility of using subsea Ie 2 as a unidimensional measure .
The Effect of Clothing Type and Facial Attractiveness of Men Clothed on Impressions ( I )
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 19, issue 2, 1995, Pages 230~241
The purpose of this study was 1) to investigate the effect of male clothing type and facial attractiveness on the subjects' inferences of occupation for the wearers, 2) to investigate the effect of male clothing type on the inferences of occupational characteristics. The stimuli were composed of 24 color photographs which were made of 6 types of clothing and 18 wearers who were made of 3 levels of facial attractiveness in combination with 6 types of clothing. The subjects were 288 male and 288 female university students. The subjects chose an occupation among 19 occupations presented for 6 types of clothing and the wearers. Also the subjects' inferences of occupational characteristics for the clothing were measured by semantic\ulcornerdiffenential scales. The results were as follows: 1) As a whole, the infered occupation for each of the clothing types was consistent with the expected occupations in this study. "Therefore there were stereotypes about male clothing type. At the same time, the halo effect of facial attractiveness appeared when subjects infered wearer's occupation. 2) The subjects' responses to the semantic-differential scales about 6 types of clothing were factor analyzed to identify the underlying constructs of occupational characteristics. At the result, 4 factors were emerged. The first factor was interpreted to Apperance/ Ability, the second, Indi~iduality, the third, Naivety, and the fourth, Dominancy. 3) The male clothing type influenced on the 3 factors except the Dominancy factor.nancy factor.
A Study on the Usage of Apparel CAD Systems
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 19, issue 2, 1995, Pages 242~263
The study was to find out the current situation of supply and demand of apparel CAD systems in Korea. Also it was hoped to gather any valuable information about the current usage of apparel CAD systems for the development of the enhanced apparel CAD system. Three interviews were carried out for the study. The first interview with the importing agents was to find out the apparel CAD system's supplying situation. The second interview with the users of apparel CAD system was about the usage of the systems and related informations. The last interview was about the pattern making facilities, which was pointed out by the users to be the most inconvenient part of apparel CAD systems. The results of the survey were: 1. The supply and demand of apparel CAD systems is increasing. 2. The education, training, maintenance of the system should be improved by the supplier. 3. Apparel CAD systems are used for various production systems in the apparel industry. 4. 100% of the systems are utilized for pattern input and 89% of the systems are utilized for marker making. Only 15% of the systems are utilized in pattern making process, which 80% of the users realize to be computerized. 5. The most serious barrier to the better usage of the system is the communication with the system in foreign language. This barrier could be lifted when Korean apparel CAD system is developed.
The Effect of Clothing Appropriateness on Person Perception
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 19, issue 2, 1995, Pages 264~277
is designed to study the college women's desirable clothing behavior in campus, and to find out the difference in person perception according to appropriate or inappropriate clothing. Detailed object is to find out the following differences according to appropriate and inappropriate clothing in campus: 1) formation of impression 2) inference of value. Addi\ulcorner tionally the difference in person perception according to major, grade and preference group are studied. For data collection, 460 college women who are attending Ewha Woman's University are included, and convenience sampling method is used. Frequency, percentage, mean, factor analysis, t-test, ANDV A. duncan test, correspondent analysis are used for data analysis. The result are as follows: 1) Wearer's impression is devided into four factors: appearence evaluation, personality evaluation, ability and activity. 2) There are significant differences in impression formation and value inference according to situational appropriateness. 3) There are significant differences in person perception according to major, grade and preference group.
A Study on the American Hippies and Their Fashion
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 19, issue 2, 1995, Pages 278~286
This study, on the American hippies and their fashion, is composed of an examination of the following; the social and cultural circumstances of America in the late 1960's, the charac\ulcorner teristics of the hippies that appeared in the midst of the foresaid background, how those factors materialized in the hippies' distinctive fashion and how they influenced tahion to come. The hippies were composed of the young generation that revolted against all general conventional values of American society and seceded from it, seeking for the ideas of love and freedom. They expressed their newly defined culture-rock music based on drug culture, psychedelic art, rejection of an established society and ethnic tastes that sprang up from nostalgia concerning nature-by means of their own distinctive fashion. And as a revival of the hippies' fashion, neo-hippie and grunge fashions newly appeared in the F /W season of 1992 and afterwards, adding fresher and more abundant sensibility to the original image and layered look of the hippies. The hippies' fashion has not only played a significant part in modem fashion history but will continue to exert its influence in the 1990's as the hippies generation are presently the center of American culture and leaders of world culture. In conclusion, various sorts of "individ- uality" and "the pleasure in the wearing itself" expressed by the original layering of the hippies' fashion presents new promise in the coming development at fashion.
The Method of Measuring Surface Area by Image Processing -With a Focus on the Comparison between Theory of Measure & Method of Measurement-
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 19, issue 2, 1995, Pages 287~296
measuring surface area errors can be brought about with different measuring people. This study aims at eliminating such errors in measurement. With measures by 3 people whose experience varies from person to person, the existing area measuring method using a planimeter and two other methods which use a computer (one using a digitizer and the other using a scanner) have been analyzed and compared. Three methods have not shown a meaningful difference in respect to the value" of area and two methods other than the one using a scanner have shown a meaningful difference among 3 measuring people. Therefore, we propose the method using a scanner by image processing should be a more improved one for area measuring. The arguments for that are as fllows. 1. The operation for measurement is simple and it has a high degree of accuracy with few errors. 2. Because different measuring people cause few errors the operation started by one person can be handed over to anyone else and the operation dosen't require previous skill. 3. Once image file is saved, the operation can be performed on several computers at the same time with seperate part on each computer. 4. Three methods have needed nearly the same length of time, but time for the method using a scanner can be reduced on computers with a higher capacity.th a higher capacity.
A Study of Occurrence and Alternating Current of a Matal Kwan in Korean Ancient Times
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 19, issue 2, 1995, Pages 297~316
The system and symbolizing ideologic meanings of the metallic Kwon in period of the Three-Kingdoms were comsidered by comparing to their cultural path and structal styles throughout the tree and the deer worship ideology. The results of this study are as followings; Firstly, the beginning of the Korean, mostly northern style was originated from metal tools of the Bronze age in BC 6c-7c. The maJ;lufature of the metallic adornment brought the pr-evailing use of metallic objects of craftwork after the supply of ironmongery. Secondly, the cultmal characteristics of the metallic Kwan in the kor-ean Peninsula were influenced f-rom the northern chinese tribes, Momg Go, Hung No, and Sien-pi who were transmitted from the scythian of the southern Russia having a prefenence for gold. Thir-dly, the metallic Kwon of the Kogmgo and the Baekje era was ideologically based on the ar-t of Buddism of the pattern of blazing flame, the carved pattern of flower- of herb, and the honey. sukle which were tramsmitted to china thr-ough the silk noad. Fourthly, the metallic K wam of the silla era consisted of the tree and the antler types in closely nelated to the tree and the deer ideology which were based on the background of shamanism. It should be raid that the metallic Kwan of the silla esa are connected to the type of nor-them ancient K wan. Lasthy, the metallic Kwan-Mo of the Kaja esa was mosthy original type of flower of herb even if kome of these ar-e similiar to the tree adornment type of silla. This type of flower of herb in based on the scythian type with a statue im silveer founded at Alexandnopol in the southern russia.
Wettability and Water Repellency of Polyester Fabrics Treated by Low Temperture Plasma
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 19, issue 2, 1995, Pages 317~328
The objective of this study was to determine the effects of low temperature plasma on the surface properties of polyester fabric with respect to wettability and water repellency. Highly wettable polyester fabric surfaces were obtained by oxygen treatment. The improved wettabililty of oxygen plasma treated fabrics decreased with aging time up to 30 days, and then the wettability remained relatively constant and still exhibited significant improvement compared to that of untreated polyester. Water repellency was significantly improved by tetratfluorocarbon plasma treatment. Such an improvement appears due to introduced fluo\ulcornerrine atoms or a thin fluorocarbon film on the fiber surface. Water repellency remained constant in fact, even after 150 days.
A Study on Efficient Using of a Newspaper Fashion Advertising - Focused on Advertising for Women's Ready-to Wear-
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 19, issue 2, 1995, Pages 329~339
This study intended to provide valuable basic data for an efficient using newspaper advertising to manufactures by investising and analyzing the character of newspaper as fashion advertising and media environment, consumer's attitude of advertising subscription, a degree of recognition and concern on a newspaper advertising and a degree of like on expressive form of a newspaper advertising. A question that is drawn up by researcher base on existing records and preceding study was used as major method for understanding consumer's consciousness. The sample group is composed of female students, working women, housewives who lives in Seoul. The results of this study were as follows. 1. Manufactures should be developing Headline in subject matter to get out of plain sale advertising and event advertising. 2. Manufactures should difference to understanding Illustration that consumer prefer. Also using of photography is efficient and it is importent to use of color advertising that appeal to consumer. 3. The informative advertising is a high degree of efficiency by reason that the newspaper offers great news source and information.
A Historical Study on the Visual Inconsistency of Sexual Image in Dress
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 19, issue 2, 1995, Pages 340~355
purpose of this study was to trace historically the causes of the visual inconsistency of seXual ilT'age in dress with versatile perspectives. For this purpose, theoretical studies about the concepts of sexuality in dress were precceded. To trace the factors of the visual inconsistency of sexual image in dress, historical studies from ancient Egypt to modern ages were done. And then, the factors of the visual inconsist\ulcornerency of sexual image in dress were identified. The synthetic results were as follows; L The visual inconsistency of sexual image in dress shows the phenomena that men introduce the traditional feminine image in dress (ex. X silhouette, skirts), whereas women do the traditional masculine image (ex. Y silhouette, pants), which arouse androgynous image in appearance. And, it also indicates that men or women wear the dress excluded the traditional masculine image as well as the traditional feminine image, which arouse neutral image in appearance. 2. The visual inconsistency of sexual image in dress have been existed historically, from Egypt to modern ages. 3. The visual inconsistency of sexual image III dress was caus~d by various factors as follows; First, ideal beauty of the times which did not distinguish between masculinity and femininity resulted in the visual inconsistency of sexual image in dress. Second, as a means of seeking pleasure, the visual inconsistency of sexual image in dress was used. Third, as a means of expressing ideology, the visual inconsistency of sexual image in dress was selected. Forth,in religious meaning,the visual inconsistency ofl sexual image in dress was appeared. Fifth,popularization of sports and occupational role made woman adopt the masculine image in dress in view of the aspects of functionalism. Sixth,Undevelopment of taloring contributed to generate androgenous image in dress.
Studies on the Detergency of Oily Soils (Part II)
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 19, issue 2, 1995, Pages 356~365
study was made to investigate the emulsification and rolling-up between liquid oily soils and surfactant and its effect on the detergency. Samples used were triolein as a triglyceride, oleic acid as a free fatty acid and sodium dodecyl sUJfate(SDS) as a surfactant. The results were as follows: 1. The spontaneous emulsification occurred in the system of oleic acid alone and mixture of triolein and oleic acid contacted with 0.5% SDS solution, but it did not occurred in a case of triolein alone. 2. The stability of emulsification increased with the increase of SDS concentration. And the stability of emulsification and (-) t value increased in the order of triolein < mixture of triolein and oleic and< oleic acid. 3. The rolling-up mechanism of model oily soils easily occurred in the order of triolein< mixture of triolein and oleic acid< oleic acid, and facilitated with the increase of SDS concentration. On the other hand, the complex formation was already observed in the system of oleic and 0.5% SDS solution. 4. As compared with the detergency of triolein, the detergency of oleic acid was very high. And the detergency of mixed soil was improved with increasing ratio of oleic acid in the mixture.
모아레 사진 촬영법을 이용한 중년여성 체형파악 및 착의 평가
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 19, issue 2, 1995, Pages 366~379
This study was performed to provide fundamental data on middle-aged women's upper torso by classifying the upper torso somatotype and analyzing the characteristics of their somatotype. Factor analysis of principal component model was used to 38 directly measured items, and cluster analysis was applied for classification of upper torso forms. Seven factors were extracted from the factor analysis. The first factor represented the items of circumference, breadth, and depth which were related with body size. On the basis of the cluster analysis using factor scores trom factor analysis as being independent variables, the subjects were classified into three groups. Three dress forms were constructed according to the characteristics for each somatotype of subjects, the three-dimensional characteristics of somatotype were analyzied by the moire pattern and horizontal section map of proposed dress forms. Wearing test by moire topography was used to evaluate wearing outline, the ease of clothes and garment space. Moire pattern and horizontal section map were useful to evaluate wearing conditions, and garment space was changed by the characteristics of the body shape.
A Study of the Method of Expression of Surrealism in the Modern Costume (1)
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 19, issue 2, 1995, Pages 380~392
The purpose of this study was to investigate a comparison between method of depaysement of Surrealism and modern costume. Surrealism was based on Freud's theory of uncon\ulcornersciousness and Hegelian dialectic. I found that its method of expression and inspiration have a continuous influence on a field of fashion through preceding study. Surrealism stimulated Elsa Schiaparelli (1890-1973) to make creative and innovative costume which created a sensatio.i1 the world of fashion in 1930. And it have been influence on modern fashion. From this point of view, I examined surrealistic painter of Rene Magritte (1898-1967) to use shocking method of depaysement through literature and photographes. And I made researches on Paris London collcetions from 1989 to 1994 in the cause of analysis a comparison with depaysement in painting of R. Magritte. As the result of analysising main works of R.Magritte according classification of Suzi Gabric (an art critic), he was expressive of usual object in various of depaysement. I also proved that modern fashion which was new shocking, innovative and avant-garde presented unconsciousness through these expression of depaysement with common subject. In consequence, the method of expression of surrealism have been a durable influence on modern costume.