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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 19, Issue 6 - Nov 1995
Volume 19, Issue 5 - Sep 1995
Volume 19, Issue 4 - Jul 1995
Volume 19, Issue 3 - May 1995
Volume 19, Issue 2 - Mar 1995
Volume 19, Issue 1 - Jan 1995
Selecting the target year
Theoretical Classification of the Clothing Evaluative Criteria
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 19, issue 6, 1995, Pages 857~865
The main purposes of this study were to find out the new classification system of the clothing evaluative criteria(CEC), 3nd to clear up the relationshiops of new classification system and the existing classification systems. For this purpose, the existing literatures related with the CEC(the classification system, and the variables) were investigated. The results of the study were as follows: 1. The existing classification systems were 'the intrinsic. non-intrinsic classification', 'the level classification', 'the purchase process classification' The new classification system of the CEC is based on 'the view-point of subjets'. The system was divided into the point of clothing itself, the wearer, the other, the wearing situation. The wearer's point of view is divided into the point of the value, and the physical characteristics of wearer 2. The image was included as the concept of the CEC, and the image classification could be suggested. 3. The relationships of the classification systems were as follows:
The intrinsic. non-intrinsic classification system included the level classification, the view-point classification, the image classification, and the buying process classificstion.
The level classification, the view.point classification, and the image classification were linked mutually, but the buying process classification is seperated from these classifications.
A Study on the Indonesian Ikat Textile Design
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 19, issue 6, 1995, Pages 866~886
The purpose of this study is to analyze the pattern and the meaning of textiles, and decorative techniques of ikat weaving and dyeing in Indonesia. The textile design also analyzes by examining the method of ikat techniques such as warp ikat, weft ikat and double ikat, and by classifying the style of regions. The most common motifs are geometric designs of spirals, meanders, straight lines, triangles, and circles which are influenced by outside world. Although these motifs or symbols have been evident since prehistoric times, their design and meaning have been continually reinterpreted as changes in the ceremonies and rituals. While motifs such as reptiles, birds, and human figures, depicted in spiral, hooked and rhomb configurations, have been identified among the most resilient features of Indonesian textile design, new meanings have been added to these ancient forms, and designs have been transformed and reinterpreted to suit local conceptions. Since textiles are a visual expression of Indcufsian life, textiles place the individual symbolically within social milieu, identifying rank, family, locality and religious affiliations. Textiles represent a link between the human and the spiritual realm, and a vehicle for the display of sacred and secular potency Ikat textiles play to embody special transforming powers and sacred mediating qualities, providing protection and evoking life-enriching forces for individuals or social group.
Consumer Attitude Toward the Fashion Advertising -Consumer Advertising Involvement and Product Use Experience-
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 19, issue 6, 1995, Pages 887~894
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles Vol. 19, No. 6 (1995) p. 887~894 The purpose of this study were to reveal the relationships among the consumer's advertising involvement toward each related variables (the prior brand attitude, the consumer responses, the advertising attitude, the brand attitude, and the purchase intention). Also it were to identify these variables differences according to mediated roles of product use experiences. The result of this study were as follows: 1. Consumer advertising involvement were composed of five dimentions; the hedonic involvement, social involvement, utilitarian involovement, perceived risk involvement, and comfortable involvement. 2. There were significant relationships among the five dimentions, such as advertising involvement, the prior brand attitude, the advertising attitude, the brand attitude, and the purchase intention, according to the types of advertising appeal. 3. The related variables were significant differences according to the consumer's product use experiences.
A Study on Representation of Brand Image Which is Manifested in Package
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 19, issue 6, 1995, Pages 895~910
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles Vol. 19, No. 6 (1995) p. 895~910 The purpose of study was to estimate the consistency between brand image and shopping bag image, and also to find out the important factors which constructed the brand image. This study was conducted by means of a questionnaire survey of female students of moi or universities in Seoul. Frequency, percentage, mean, factor analysis, 1-test, ANOVA, Fisher's LSD, Coster analysis, MDS are used for data analysis. The result are as follows: 1) Brand image was devised into three factors: personality/modernity, nobility and usability. 2) The rate of consistency of brand image and shopping bag image was high in the brands of Benetton, System, Cresson, Be-art, Tomboy, Guess, Esprit, Anacapri, Mercoledi, Youngwoo in descending order. 3) The most important factor which represent the brand image was the choice of color. 4) This study found that shopping bags can be advertising media because they think that shopping bags played an important role as a walking advertising media on the street.
A Stydy on the Ergonomic Sleeve Design by Body Surface Changes at Upper Extremity
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 19, issue 6, 1995, Pages 911~923
The zone of expansion and contraction of arm surfaces was analyzed, the correlation between arm surface changes was studied, and ergonomic sleeve designs were presented in which the consideration of body surface changes is emphasized. Experiments were carried out which include 43 upper extremity segments, 21 motions and 35 female subjects. The major conclusions of the study are as follows : 1. As a sleeve drafting method, detailed measures should be applied on the base of the sensitivity of body surface changes. The range of arm surface changes can be divided into three zones : concentrated expansion zone, zone of little change, and contraction part. The maximum expansion zone was the upper part of elbow. 2. The correlations were higher in lengths than in circumferences. Arm lengths were mainly correlated with upper arms. The more detailed the arm surface was, the lower the correlations between surface changes were. So there was not a lot of relation between segment changes. Tendency of body surface changes depended on the anatomical structure of the upper extremity and the movements of arm muscles. 3. As an application of measures and ease, ergonomic sleeve designs weve presented in which arm surface changes were considered. Ergonomic sleeve designs are recommended for working clothes and sports wear.
Classification of Bodytype on Adult Male for the Apparel Sizing System (Part 3) -Bodytype of Trunk from the Photoqraphic Data-
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 19, issue 6, 1995, Pages 924~932
Concept of the comfort and fitness has become a major concern in the basic function of the ready.made clothes. Until now ready-made clothes were not made by on the basis of the bodytype, but by the body size only This research was performed to classify and characterize the bodytypes of Korean adult males. Sample size was 1290 subjects and their age range was from 19 to 54 years old. 25 variables from the photographic data were applied to analyze the bodytype of trunk. Data were analyzed by the multivariate method, especially factor and cluster analysis. The groups forming a cluster can be subdivided into 5 sets by crosstabulation extracted by the hierarchical cluster analysis. 5 bodytypes classified by the photographic sources could be combined with the anthropometric data and were demonstrated with 5 silhouette. Type 3 and 4 in trunk were dominant and were composed of the majority of 55.6% of the subjects. Bodytypes of Korean males were influenced by the degree of posture erectness and of curvature of the front side of the body in waist and abdomen.
A Study on the Origin of the Clothing Terms and Their Interpretations -Focusing on the Misused Foreign Languages-
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 19, issue 6, 1995, Pages 933~945
The purpose of this study is to examine the current foreign languages of clothing terms which have been misused, clarify the meanings and suggest the unified teams. The results are as follows. First, English and Japanese are great parts of the origins of the clothing terms in foreign languges which have been misused. And next, there were French, German, Portuguese and Spanish via English and Japanese. Especially, the misused foreign languages in styles, materials of clothing are also via English and Japanese. The compound words in Japanese are many parts of them and misused Japanese, Japanese via English, French, German, Dutch, Spanish, Poltuguese, and some terms can not be found their origin. (ex: 색채, 컬러, 카라) In case of the colors of clothing, the terms have the English marking rules and the Japanese pronounciation. And some unified terms are Korean, English, and Chinese letters. (ex: 빨강, 레드, 적색) There are lots of the misused foreign lagusges in sewing terms. On each case, the corresponding words in English and Japanese were suggested to understand easily. The most of the unified words were suggested in Korean. (ex: 하찌사시
하자시; padding stitch, 팔자뜨기) In clothing construction, there were lots of the misused terms in Japanese and the corrupted terms of Japanese. And so the explains and the unified terms were suggested. (ex: 구세토리, 몸새맞춤, 나찌, 가위집 (내기)) Finally, the origins of terms in western history of costume were clarified and analyzed the meanings :
jacket, gipon, pourpoint, doublet, justaucorps, habit, flock(coat), cutaway, swallow tail coat, 배광, lounge suit,
coat Robe is the gown style garment which was used by men and women from the Middle ages, the jacket is a short, coat-like garment and coat is a long outer garment. Each origin is different, however the 'jacket' and the 'coat' were used confusely in the middle of 19th century.
A Study on Dyeability of Polyester Fabrics Grafted with Methacrylic Acid
Baik, Chun-Eui ; Cho, Seung-Sik ; Song, Hwa-Sun ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 19, issue 6, 1995, Pages 946~954
The purpose of this study is to modify the hydrophobic property and dyeability of polyethylene terephthalate fiber. Methacrylic acid (2nA) was graftpolymerized with benzoyl peroxide (BPO) as initiator onto polyethylene terephthalate fabrics. The results were as follow; 1. Graft-polymerization exhibited maximum graft ratio at a temperature of 100"C. 2. The polymer was gradually grafted in great amount to the surface of MA-g-PET as graft ration increase; with the cross-section examination of MA-g-PET, it was discovered that graft-polymeriation had also taken place inside the textile core. 3. Dyes absorption of basic dyes and disperse dyes was improved as craft ratio increase; with resistance to laundering, the former showed grade 3-4 and the latter showed grade 5.de 5.
An Experimental Study on Physical and Chemical Properties of the Fabrics Dyed with Persimmon Juice
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 19, issue 6, 1995, Pages 955~967
This study was performed to investigate the physical and chemical properties of the 5 kinds of fabrics dyed with persimmon juice and undyed fabrics. The difference between dyed and undyed fabrics was checked experimentally. Obtained results are as follows. 1. Bending length and flex stiffness were increased after dyeing, and tensile strength of waif i3l fabrics except Ramie was also increased. 2. Abrasion resistance was improved in Ramie and Hemp after dyeing but the rest of fabrics were decreased. 3. Crease resistance of dyed fabrics was roughly worse than that of undyed fabrics. 4. Air permeability remarkably increased after dyeing and this fact estabilished that the traditional Gal-01 was cool clothing. 5. Water repellency in Cotton 1 and Polyester rises but the rest of fabrics were not changed. Therefore it is found that this repellency related to the their fabric counts. 6. Blocking effect of UV light and visible ray was increased in all dyed fabrics. Especially dyed Cotton 1 and Polyester blocked UV light almost perfectly. 7. The colorfastness to soaping and sunlight was proved to less than 3 grade in all fabrics after dyeing. It indicates that this colorfastness became worse owing to dyeing. 8. The colorfastness to dry cleaning and water was decided to more than 3 grade in all fabrics. 9. The colorfastness of the dyed fabrics to sweat after exposing to man-made acid sweat solution was good so that was decided above 3 grade. However after exposing to man-made alkalic sweat solution it became worse owing to dyeing.
A Study on Clothing Attitude Variables
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 19, issue 6, 1995, Pages 968~983
In the field of psychology of clothing and fashion marketing, there have been many studies on clothing behavior but have been poorly catgorized according to the characteristics of variables. The author reviewed 120 recent studies on clothing varaibles published in Korea and grouped the variables into three categories. They are 1) the clot, ting atitude variables that consistently influence the Personal clothing behavior; 2) the market variables that are inherent to the market itself; and 3) the clothing consumer behavior uapiables that ate most related to the clothing consumer behavior. In this study the author surveyed and found that the following 9 major clothing attitude variables had been most frequently studied, including practicality, economy, modesity, aesthetics, fashionability, conformity and individuality, status symbolism, importance, and satisfaction. Two other categories will be reported in the following papers.
The Effect of Elements of Apparel Design on Impression Formation Part ll -Emphasis on the form & color of dress and of pants-blouse-
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 19, issue 6, 1995, Pages 984~994
The dimensional structure of impression formed of a female figure in specific attire was identified and significant influence of skirt length and suit color on impression formed of figures in suits were researched in the part I of this study. In part ll, the effect of identical elements of apparel design on impression formation of a female figure in dress and pants- blouse were studied. The experimental matirals consisted of two sets of stimuli and 7 point semantic differential response scale developed in part 1. Each set of stimuli was composed of 20 drawings representing female figures in each attire. Three independent variables, which were the length of bottom, color of dress or pants and collar type of blouse, were manipulated in each stimulus. The experiment was arranged by 3 factorial design, and the data were analyzed by 3-way ANOVA and by Multiple Classification Analysis. To summarize, in impression formation of figure in dress, the most dominant design element was identified as bottom length and the second most dominant one was color of dress. In contrast, in perception of figure in pants-blouse, the most important design element was color of pants and secondly important one was bottom length. The collar type of top didn't have critical effect on impression formation of figures in both type of attire.
A Study on Breast Shapes for Developing Elderly Women's Brassiere
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 19, issue 6, 1995, Pages 995~1007
The purpose of this study is to examine on breast shapes of elderly women and provide fundamental data for developing brassiere. Numerous anthropometric measurements and other related data from 398 subjects were analyzed by various statistical methods such as ANOVA, Correlation analysis, Factor analysis and Cluster analysis. 1. Analysis of Breast Measurements The subjects were categorized into three groups(Group I; aged 55 to 64, Group II; aged 65 to 74, Group III; aged more than 75). 1) The results of the comparative analysis of anthropometric data from three groups show that by getting older: -
Breast lengths, widths, heights and bust girths are decreased significantly
Various length measurements related to the drooping degree of breast are increased
Some measurements related to the volume of breast are decreased. 2) The results of the correlation analysis among measurement show that there are no directs linear relationships between under bust girth and bust drooping. Further it turned out that the cup size could be used as a factor explaining the volume of breast due to large subject variation, Thus it is required to have more specific information about the breast volume. 2. Analysis of Breast Shapes 1) From 17 measurements, 5 factor were selected as key factors for the factor analysis of breast analysis of breast shapes. The 5 factors are:
Drooping degree of breast
slope between breast and chest, width of bust point
Contours and prominence of breast at the point of front and side
Breast width. 2) We categorized the breast shapes into three types by Cluster analysis. Type 1 is the most common breast shape in elderly women.
Type L: Not too droopy and large breast
Type 2: A little droopy and small breast
Type 3; Very droopy and wide breast
A Study on the Vest Pattern of Men in Twenties Related to Roher Index
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 19, issue 6, 1995, Pages 1008~1016
The purpose of this study is to examine the vest patterns with better fitness, function and beauty best suited to the bodies because the previous studies on the vest pattern are not enough to be usable for its making and wearing including the emperiment and practice as well as its direct design and cutting although its wearing range has been widely popular. This study was carried out by making the experimental vest and performing its wearing experiment. The result of this study is summarized as follows. 1. The sensory evaluation on apperance showed that the wholoe average of pattern 4 was the highest for all S, M, L bodies. In addition, it was shown by the bodies that the most suitable related patterns included pattern 4-M body, pattern 2-S body and pattern 4-L body. However, the L body indicated the lowest score in all patterns. Then, this fact means that the diversified studies must be carried out on the vest patterns for the bodies. 2. The results on the function of vertical motions indicated that when the motion angle increased the lifting volume of the vertical motion also increased proportionally, and that the motion at
among these verical motions showed the highest score. Therefore, it is required to consider this fact when determining the vest length in the process of making the vest pattern. 3. The results on the twisted degree of a posture showed that as to the experimental results on these vertical motions the twisted degree increased with the increase of angle. This fact seems to be also important in deforming the vest length when making the vest.
The Effect of Garment Formality, Yin-Yang Level, and Body Type on Impression Formation (Part I)
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 19, issue 6, 1995, Pages 1017~1026
The purpose of the study was to 1) extend the cognitive categorization theory in an attempt to explain the effect of garment formality, Yin-Yang, and body type of children on impression formation, and 2) to understand teacher's attitudes toward children's school outfits. The experimental design was a
_full factorial design by 3 independent variables. The stimuli consisted of 8 color photographs and the semantic differential response scale was used to analyze the responses of 267 teachers of elementary school. The data were analyzed by factor analysis, ANOVA, Duncan' test and content analysis. Four factors emerged to account for dimensions of first impressions. These were sociability, potency, dynamics, and cooperation. Garment formality effected on impression of cooperation dimension. Garment Yin-Yang and children's body type effected on impression of social and dynamics dimensions.
Classification of Upper Torso Somatotype for the Construction of Middle-Aged Women's Clothing
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 19, issue 6, 1995, Pages 1027~1039
Clothing fitness is strongly required in the apparel industry, and draping is an effective tool to increase fitness to the wearers. A more sophisticated and systematic information of the somatotype, accordingly, is necessary for better cress form design. This study was performed to provide fundamental data on middle aged women's upper torso for dress form designers and pattern makers by classifying the somatotype based on each individual's lateral view, and analyzing the characteristics of their somatotype. Data were analyzed by factor analysis, cluster analysis, analysis of variance. Factor analysis was used to 23 items from photometric measurment and cluster analysis was applied for classification of upper torso forms. Through cluster analysis using 5 factor scores, 3 somatotypes were categorized from th lateral view 1) Type I was straight somatotype in which the plumb line passes throught the lobe of the ear, the shoulder joing and the mid abdominal region laterally. This type of woman was slender and shorter than average. 2) Type II was bending somatotype in which the upper portion of upper torso is bent forward. This type of woman was taller and fatter than average. 3) Type III was swayback somatotype in which the upper portion of protruding point on the back is bent forward but the lower portion of protruding point had characteristic of turning over somatotype. This type of woman had storter length on the front and longer lenght on the back, slender type and flat chest.
Brand Images of National Medium-low Priced Casual Clothing Through Perceptual Mapping
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 19, issue 6, 1995, Pages 1040~1050
The Purposes of this study were to investigate the choice dimensions in purchasing the medium-low priced casual clothing, the influence of them on the preference of medium-low priced casual clothing, and the brand images of six medium-low priced casual clothing using the perceptual map. The Questionnaires were administered to 540 college students living in Seoul (340) and County of Chungnam(200). The data were analyzed by frequency, factor analysis and multiple regression analysis. The results were summarized as follows: 1) The choice dimensions in purchasing the medium-low price casual clothing were identified as exclusiveness/style, intrinsic characteristics, promotion and price/distance. 2) Exclusiveness/style dimension influenced most on the preference of medium-low priced casual, intrinsic characteristics, price/distance dimension were followed. Promotion dimension appeared to have an insignificant influence. These results were consistent in both Seoul and the County of Chungnam. 3) Perceptual mapping showed Hunt and J-vim had the best brand images, Maypole and Omphalos were followed. Tipi Cosi and I-land appeared to have the worst brand image. The college students living in the County of Chungnam perceived that all six brands of medium low priced casual clothing to be exclusive in their style. In addition, it was perceived less promoted, more expensive and farther than Seoul counterparts.