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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 20, Issue 6 - Nov 1996
Volume 20, Issue 5 - Sep 1996
Volume 20, Issue 4 - Jul 1996
Volume 20, Issue 3 - May 1996
Volume 20, Issue 2 - Mar 1996
Volume 20, Issue 1 - Jan 1996
Selecting the target year
A Study on Style of Fashion Design by Expression of Erotic Mood
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 1, 1996, Pages 3~18
The aim of this study is to clarify the style of fashion design which represented three types of erotic mood. And it will have its significance in finding out some standards which call be applied to practical designing. The positive analysis on this study is composed of two parts-the analysis of fashion journals and of questionaire. Analysis of fashion design is to seize and to compare frequence of 17 style of fashion design in the delivery of erotic mood in
. The questionaire is to investigate preference and inclination of perception in erotic mood of 17 style of fashion design by sex and age. The results were as follows: 1) In
erotic style ate actively made use of. 2) To suggest style of fashion design expressed 3 moods of erotic can be applied to practical designing is as follows. Expression of 'romantic & mysterious' mood is desirab]e exposed body line in motion style in male, twenties and thirties. Expression of 'seductive h stimulating' mood is desirable bosom exposure, leg exposure, adhere of bosom, adhere of waist, seen-through leg, slit, exposed body line in motion style in male and twenties and seen-through bosom, adhere of hip, slash style in male. This mood is desirable exposed body line motion style in thirties and forties. Expression of 'sensuous & attractive' mood is desirable bosom exposure, leg exposure, adhere of bosom, adhere of waist, seen-through leg, slit, exposed body line in motion style in male and twenties and adhere of hip, seen-through bosom, slash style ill male. And this mood is desirable adhere of waist, arm exposure style in female and adhere of waist, exposed body line in motif style in thirties and forties.
A Study on the Physical Properties and Handle of Polyester Fabrics Grafted with Methacrylic Acid
Baik, Chun-Eui ; Cho, Seung-Sik ; Song, Wha-Soon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 1, 1996, Pages 19~27
The purpose of this study is the investigation of the physical properties, handle variation of polyester fabrics grafted methacrylic acid. The results are as follow 1. In the case of moisture recovery, MA-g-PET results in an improvement of approximately 4% when the graft ratio reaches 25%, whilst Na-MA-g-PET results in an improvement of approximately 9% when the graft ratio reaches 20%. 2. The static electricity of Na-MA-g-PET, is rarely generated when the graft ratio exceeds 10% . 3. The T.H.V. indicate that the values had deteriorated in the case of MA-g-PET, whilst the N a-Ma-a.PET values demonstrated superiority. 4. The value resulting from the MA-g-PET and Na-MA-g-PET treatment methods are calculated as being 0.0130, whilst the value pursuant to graft ratio is 0.0000.
Apparel Shopping Orientations and Importance of Store Attributes Related to Cognitive Age of the Elderly Consumers
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 1, 1996, Pages 28~42
The purposes of this sturfy were 1) to examine the difference between cognitive and actual age, 2) to understand apparel shopping orientations and the importance of store attributes related to cognitive age and 3) to identify relationship.; between apparel shopping orientations and importance of store attribute, ; in cognitively younger and older groups For the study, questionnaires were administered to 450 elderly women over 55 years of age. The questionnaires were designed to mea, ;ore apparel shopping orientations (hedonic, store loyal and brand conscious, careful and planned, confidented and independent, and economic shopping), importance of store attributes, cognitive age and demographics. Using a base of 204 women, data was analyzed by using descriptive statistics, t-test and correlation coeffictents. The results of this study weve summarized as follows. 1. The older women saw themselves on average 6. 6 years younger than they really were 77.6% of the respondents blieved themselves to be cognitively younger 2 Cognitively younger women were more hedonic and less carefull and planned than cognitively older women in apparel Shopping. 3. Cognitively older women thought that proximity and private dressing rooms in apparel stores were mote important attributes than cognitively younger women. In terms of apparel store attributes, older consumers placed importances on product quality, fit and size, design suited to their age, attractive price, and the availability to return unsatisfactory products, in orders.
A Study on Sizing System for Mail-Order Clothing
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 1, 1996, Pages 43~53
This study was initiated to investigate (1) the current sizing system for mail-order clothing, (2) consumers' preference for sizing systems, and (3) consumers' satisfaction with garment size. The apparel items and the sizes available at various mail-order companies in Korea were also reviewed. This investigation of consumers' preferences for various size description systems includes a survey of 410 men and women who had purchased garments by mail-order. The data were analyzed by Statistical Analysis System/pc. The major results are as follows; 1. The sizing system of mail-order clothing was different by garment items. The number of apparel sizes available for mail-order purchasing was three or less. The most mail∼order garments were labeled by the numerical size codes of body girth nleasurements or letter code (S, M, L). 2. The size description system most prefered by female subjects(N : 360) was the numerical size code of a body measurement(55.4%). The combination of bust-hips-height measurements size codes were prefered by 13.3% . The pictogram was least premiered by the subjects. 3. The apparel items that subjects wanted to buy using mail-order were underwear, home -weat and night-wear. The heavy users of mail-order purchasing, however, also wanted to purchase expensive garments requiring precise fit. The subjects aged from 20's to 80's wanted to purchase childern's wear by mail. 4. The desire for diversity of garment item and size of mail-order apparel was relatively high. The subjets also wanted to purchase special size garments by mail-order, e. g., garment sizes for full or tall figure.
A Study on the Automatic Drafting of Basic Slacks Pattern for Young Men
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 1, 1996, Pages 54~65
The purposes of this study were 1) to present the optimum slacks pattern for young men, 2) to develope a methodology to draft basic slacks pattern using AutoCAD The total crotch legth and the shape of the crutch line were determined by anthropometric data analysis. The total crotch length was calculated with the waist girth, the hip girth and the crotch length measurements. The anthropometric data utilized for this procedure was National Anthropometric Survey of Korea, 1992. And multidimensional anthropometric measurements were carried out for 6 male college students between the age of 18 to 24. The subjects were measured with the Martin's anthropometer and the sliding gauge. Mean, standard deviation and t-test were performed for statistical analysis of the data. The automatic drafting method was programmed by AutoLISP in AutoCAD. The automatic drafting was based on the Muller's slacks pattern drafting method, the measurements of slacks construction components and the curve of crotch line. The crotch line was drafted using of the arc function in AutoCAD. The total crotch length was calcuated using the multiple regression equation. The experimental pattern developed to accomodate individual body wleasurements expected to produce customized apparel production in QRS(Quick Response System) production system.
The Study of Normative Influence on Clothing Conformity
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 1, 1996, Pages 66~75
The purpose of the present study was to investigate relation.;hip between normative influence on clothing conformity and authoritarian personality, fashion interest, and clothing importance. The sample of this study consisted of 756 subjects assigned to eight groups according to sex, age and residence. In this study normative influence on clothing conformity, fashion interest, and clothing importance were measured by 20 Likert type questions adopted from previous research or developed for this study. Authoritarian personality was measured by Min's 35 Likert type questions. The data were analyzed by ANOVA, multiple regression and correlation. The results showed that 1) authoritarian personality, fashion interest, and clothing importance was positively related to normative influence on clothing conformity. Among these, fashion interest was the most significant varible. 2) Normative influence on clothing conformity varied by sex and age: that is, females conformed more than males, and younger sample conformed more than older sample.
A Quantitative Approach to the studies in Historic Costume using the Documentary Evidence
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 1, 1996, Pages 76~86
The Influences of America on 20th Century Men's Fashion - From 1890's to World War II-
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 1, 1996, Pages 87~97
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles Vol. 20, No. 1 (1996) p. 87∼9'F The purpose of this study was to identify the change and chracteristics of 20th men's fashion under the influences of America. The result of the study as follows: 1. England had led men's fashion and introduced new styles of men's fashion such as oxford bags, plus fours, drape cut etc. in the early of 20th century. But America, which had the strongest Political and financial power after World War I, II, proposed Americans cut, soot sit, bold look. 2. In the first half of 20th century men's fashion was no longer created by imitation royalty and students of private school. American movies exerted tremendous influences on the clothing styles. Genereal public adopted the dress of movie stars and American men's fashion magazines inspired the new fashion and generated sales. So America made a contribution towards democratization of men's fashion. 3. Automobile industry and leisure living of America changed American life styles and clothing styles. The wealthy made fashionable tours to foreign country and European beach resorts. So their casual styles, summer business suits and dinner jackets effected 20th men's fashion. Therefore America played an important role in casualization of men's fashion.
A Study of Summer Socks on Their Properties of Hygiene and Comfortableness
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 1, 1996, Pages 98~112
Tho purpose of this study was to investigate hygienic and comfortable properties of socks. Materials are nine summer socks either frequently being worn or new products recently introduced to market. Three female and three male adults participated in this study. Through wearing experiment, the numbers of microbes on foot and sock were counted and subjective sensation was measured. The microbes were isolated and identified based on growth physiological characteristics. Nine different socks had smaller number of bacteria of sock than that of foot. The number of bacteria of sock was significantly related with that of foot in cotton socks, in piled cotton socks, in mesh cotton socks, in cotton+ nylon+ linen blended socks, in nylon socks. Total number of bacteria of tv cut finished socks was most small and total number of bacteria was increased in the order of ultra fresh finished socks, untreated cotton socks, nylon socks, cotton + nylon+ linen blended socks, mesh cotton socks, polyester+ nylcn+ linen blended socks, piled cotton socks, cotton socks. Total number of bacteria of cotton socks and piled cotton socks were significantly different from that of uv cut finished socks. Finished socks and .jocks has high air permeability had significantly small number of bacteria. Comfortable sensation in nylon socks and polyester+nylon+linen socks was significantly uncomfortable. The way socks finished and air permeability of .jocks affected theirs hygienic property, while fiber type of them affected comfortablene, is. Bacteria identified were Staphylo coccus aureus, S. au rice larir, S. cahn ii, S. ep ids midis, S. haemo Iyticus, S. h am in 2's. S.fapraphyticus, S. warnery, 1 cinetobater calcoaceticus bio. anitratus, p.reudomonas mendocina, p. paucimobilis, Flavimonas Q ryzihabitans (CDC Group VE-2), and Xanthomanas maltophina. Fungi isolated were Spicaria sp., Thrichoderma sp., Fusarium sp., Aspergillus sp., Epicoccum sp., Cladosporium sp., and Penicillium sp..
A Study on the Change of Waist Pattern by Upper Limb Motion -By the Method of Tight Fitting Technique-
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 1, 1996, Pages 113~127
In this study, the pattern was copied by the method of Tight Fitting Techinque, which resulted from the changed body by the upper limb motion-front-vertical motion(or vertical motion in front), side-vertical motion, and horizontal motion. And, this study analyzed the change of the pattern and the observed items dimension changed to the pattern. The results are as follows: 1. In the observation of the degree of the pattern change according to the motion of upper limb, the result provides that the motion change in the range of
is the largest in front-vertical motion,
in side-vertical motion, and
in horizontal motion respectively. 2. The probability test result of the items of the motion is more related with the horizontal width item rather than the vertical length item in the front and back pattern where the back pattern has more effect than the front pattern. And the upper limb-surrounding items are more related than any otheer item. 3. The change of the pattern according to the motion shows the decrese of the neck width and the shoulder legth, the rising of the point of shoulder (or shoulder point) and armpit point, the decrease of the pattern width and the increase of the pattern length. As the angle of the motion grows vertically motion. The change of the shoulder length in the horizontal motion is smaller than that vertical. But as the angle of the motion grows horizontally, it has a tendency of decreas in th width of the front patten and the length of the pattern, whereas the width of the back pattern is noticeably increases.
A Study on the Somato type of Middle-aged Women -House wives between 40s and 55s-
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 1, 1996, Pages 128~141
The pourpose of this study is to determine the exact size which can be the basic elements of the fashion design with the measurement of middle-aged women's body, and to grasp the peculiar tomato type of the middle-aged women by compacting each measurement and examing the change of body shape. Making 215 house wives about 40 to 55 years old the subject of this research, we measured the body size from June to August, 1994. After analyzing the data through the 43 item.; of the body measurement, grasping the characteristics of the tomato type, we classified three types of physical standard and looked into the element of body structure. The results were as follows; 1. The average Rohrer index of middle-aged women in Tas-gu is about 1.5 and they usually seem to be fat compared with other groups. 2. Age has much influence on the body change of middle-aged women. Especially around 45 years old, the body change showed remarkable. 3. When analyzing the elements of the body measurement, the biggest elements of middle -aged women's body structure are in the items of width, thickness and girth related to the expansion of body line. Therefore in the middle age, the thickness and the girth have more influence on the human body than the height and the length, so the items of thickness and girth is the most important factor in the somato type. 4. In the slim body and standard body, the thirst factor is the items of height and length related to vertical size and the second is the items of width and thickness and girth. In ice fat body the first factor is the items of width, thickness, girth and the second is those of height, length. Unlike other body shapes, the fat body has many factors, which shows that the fat body has much variation in each part in proportion to fatness.
A Study on the Women's Clothing Discard Behavior
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 1, 1996, Pages 142~156
The purposes of this study were to examine the reason, = of clothing discard and to investigate the influences of demographic and clothing variables on the clothing discard behavior Data were collected from 610 women who lived in Seoul and Kwangjoo. By means of factor analysis, 6 general factors of clothing discard reason.; were extracted The 6 factors were named as dissatisfaction with appropriateness, physically worn out, dissatisfaction with clothing quality, fashion change, boredom, inconvinience. Among the five clothing items (suits or one pieces, jackets, jumpers, shirts or blouses, skirts or pants), there existed differences in the reason factors of clothing discard The relationships between clothing discard behavior (reason factors of clothing discard, peviods of clothing utilization) and variables like user's age, degrees of satisfaction with clothing, clothing items were also examined. There existed significant differences among the age groups and the groups classified by clothing satisfaction degrees in the reason factors of clothing discard and in the Periods of clothing utilization. Periods of clothing utilization were also differed by the clothing items. As user's a age grew older, periods of clothing utilization increased and the rates of clothing discard because of dissatisfaction with appropriateness, and dissatisfaction with clothing quality, boredom, inconvinience factors were decreased. As the degrees of satisfaction with clothes increased, the periods of clothing utilization also increased and the rates of clothing discard because of dissatisfaction with appropriateness, and dissatisfaction with clothing quality, inconvinience factors decreased. And the rates of clothing discard because of physically worn out factor increased.
Alkaline Softening of
Delustered Polyester Fabrics
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 1, 1996, Pages 157~169
Polyester yarns and fabrics containing three levels of
delusterant were hydrolyzed with NaOH and examined for physical and morphological changes. The mechanical propertis and hand values of alkaline hydrolyzed polyester fabrics were measured using KES-FB system. Also, the relationship between the morphology and the mechanical property of alkaline hydrolyzed polyester fabrics was analyzed. The results are as follows: 1. At an initial stage of alkaline treatment, the concentration of
did not affect the weight loss of the treated yarns. But by increasing treatment time, the effect of the concentration of
on the weight loss of the fiber became more pronounced. The weight loss were increased in the following order; fulldull> semidull> clear 2. The effect of hydrolysis on yarn tensile strength seems to be more related to the size of the pits on the fibers rather than the number of pits. 3. Axially oriented pits occurred along the hydroyzed, delustered fiber surfaces, while such pitting was absent on hydrolyzed fiber containing no
. The number of voids across the surface of a fiber increased with an increase in the amount of TiOa incorporated into the fibers. The size of the voids depended on the treatment time of hydrolysis rather than the concentration of TiOa. 4. The mechanical properties and hand values of polyester fabrics were changed by alkaline treatment but were identical regardless of the concentration of TiOa. While the mechanical properties of polyester fabrics depended on the structural change of the fibers and the yarns within the fabrics as the fiber diameter became progressively smaller rather than the size and number of pits.
Somatotype of Women's Upper Body through a Development Figure of the Surface of the Body
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 1, 1996, Pages 170~182
The purpose of this study is to classify the upper body of women into several kind.; of somatotypes, using the method of Surgical Tape and making their shells. The subjects are 50 females 20 to 29 years-old. Fifty-one anthropometric data are measured per shell of body surface : eight somatotype factors are obtained through principal component analysis and orthogonal rotation by the method of Varimax, Somatotype of women's upper body is achieved by cluster analysis, using the standardized factor score a.: an independent variable and the FASTCLUS of SAS by Kmeans. The results are as follows : 1. The number of the factors which explain the somatotype is eight and these factors comprise 81.63 percent of total variance. Factor 1 related to the degree of fatness in the front of upper body Factor 2 related to the degree of fatness in the back of upper body Factor 3 . related to the length of the upper body Factor 4 : related to the type of the upper chest over the chest circmference line Factor 5 : related to the armhole and neck Factor 6 : related to the type of lower chest under the chest circumference line Factor 7: related to the part of the back shoulder Factor 8: related to the depth of front neck and side dart of front independently 2. Cluster analysis results in classification of upper body into five clusters. Cluster 1 : the of circumference i.: lager and that of length is longer than the average The louver part of chest is the lagest and widest among surface areas. Cluster 2 : the circumference is the smallest , the length and surface area are small. The upper and lower chest is small Cluster 3 : the length and surface area are the smallest , the circumference is average. The body line (silhouette) from chest to waist is curved slightly.
Developement of Print Designs Inspired from Postmodernity
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 1, 1996, Pages 183~196
The purpose of this study was to analyze the influnce of Postmodernism on 90's fashion trends, and to present applications of it's inspiration to print design. 90's fashion trends represented in fashion magazines, in fashion trend reports, and in related books were anlyzed. Informations referring to two selected target markets were collected by phone interview. In 90's fashion trends, seven fashion images seemed to be influenced from Postmodernism emerged. Based on these seven fashion images, several print designs were created and developed for one domestic market and for one export market.
The Relationship between Fashion Creation and Art in Material and Technique in 1960s Fashion
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 1, 1996, Pages 197~206
We can see the relationship between Fashion creation and Art through the characteristic of clothings at Fashion Collections such as the round, abstractive motive, optical effect, symetric line, etc. This relationship between Fashion creation and Art brings the affective image and the aesthetic shock to open the door to imagination. Art-related people such as artist, fashion designer share the creativeness, new vision and artistic fever. We can see the link and co- work between art and fashion creation all over the 20th centary. Specially it reached its peak in 1960s when Paco Rabanne, Andra Curreges, Pierre Cardin and Yves Saint-Laurent introduced their works. This study includes not only the influence of the art but also the relationship between the art and fashion creation to analyze the way and the reason of the influence of the art in terms of the form, technique, material and process. Doing this, 1 try to ask and answer the question "through what form and at what situation fashion creation can be considered as an art." The study reaches the conclusion that fashion designer is the creator, technician and transferer if the the art.e the art.
Clothing and Self-Image
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 1, 1996, Pages 207~217
Self is well·expressed by clothing, so self-image can be an effective variable for conducting clothing·behavior studies. But there ate some problems in clothing and self-image researches. This paper will be a clue to discuss these problems. The contents of this study are as follows. (1) The notion of self-image is compared with self-concept, and according to this work, self concept comprehends the evaluative properties in addition to self-image illustration. In tai.; part, the problem in translating the terminologies, 'self-concept' and 'self-image', are also discussed. (2) The aspects of self-image are explored, thus physical and social-psychological aspects are determined. (3) Two sub-dimensions of self-image ate recommended relating to clothing researches: actual versus ideal and intrinsic versus phenomenal. (4) Some comments for future studies ate added. It is needed to investigate the relationships of other social- psychological variables and self-image in clothing department.
A Study on the Trend of Bodytype Change -On the adult male between age 19 and 54-
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 1, 1996, Pages 218~227
The purpose of this study was performed to analyze the trend of bodytype change of adult males. Subjects were 1290 Korean adult males and their age range was from 19 to 54 year, ; old. 75 variables(66 variables from the direct anthropometric data and 9 variables from the multiplication method) in total were applied to analyze. The principal component analysis was applied to the data with orthogonal rotation after extraction of major factors. The high factor loading items extracted by factor analysis were analyzed for the trend of bodytype change by the age group respectively. The result of factor analysis indicated that the first factor was composed with about 30 items, girth, depth and width-measures in 4 age groups and was analysed as form factors. Especially, age-related change was caused by increase of waist girth, depth and width. The second factor was composed with about 23 items, length and height-measures in all age groups. Stature has a constant factor loading value in 4 groups. Front and back waist-height and the navel-height have the highest factor loading value. The third, fourth and fifth factors were composed with different variables among the age groups.
Effect of Fiber Content, Yarn Size and Construction of Knit Fabrics on the Buffering Capacity against Water Vapor
Yoo, Hwa-Sook ; Hu, Yoon-Sook ; Kim, Eun-Ae ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 1, 1996, Pages 228~238
The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effect of chacteristics of knit fabrics on the microclimate of the skin simulating system. To determine the effect of characteristics of knit fabrics, vapor state of sweat pulse was simulated in the closed system. Different contents of fibers such as cotton, wool and polyester with different yarn size and knit types were chosen for specimens. The changes of humidity and temperature of air layer in the simulated systems were measured. Buffering indices,
, were determined by considering
. Physical properties of knit fabrics such as thickness, porosity, air resistance and moisture vapor transport were measured. Results showed that vapor pressure of wool was lower than cotton or polyester This was attributed to the hydrophilicity of wool which absorbed moisture rather quickly and retained in the knit fabric. The time to decrease vapor pressure was faster for polyester than cotton or wool. As a result,
was in the order of wool> polye, item> cotton.
of wool was rower than cotton or polyester due to its lowers porosity and slower desorption rate. For the yarn size,
was in the order of 80's> 60's> 30's; thinner and lighter yarn showed better water vapor transport property. For knit type, buffering capacity of single jersey was better than interlock knit fabric. Statistical analysis showed that the air permeability was the most influential factor far the water vapor transport properties.