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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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Volume & Issues
Volume 20, Issue 6 - Nov 1996
Volume 20, Issue 5 - Sep 1996
Volume 20, Issue 4 - Jul 1996
Volume 20, Issue 3 - May 1996
Volume 20, Issue 2 - Mar 1996
Volume 20, Issue 1 - Jan 1996
Selecting the target year
The Effect of Perceiver's Attitude on Male Impressions.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 2, 1996, Pages 241~256
The purposee of this study was to identify the effect of perceiver's clothing attitude on male impressions created by the clothing cues and contexts. In addition, the effect of perceiver's evaluations of clothing appropriateness on male impressions. The subjects consisted of 256 male undergraduate students and 256 middle aged men. The experimental materials developed for this study were a set of stimuli and response scales. The stimuli were 8 color Photographs of drawings of a male figure in clothing which were minipulated in two levels, each of three clothing cues including type, style and color. The experimental design was full factorial design of 2(contexts
clothing color). Each of the 16 sub-samples includes 16 subjects from the two perceiver group. Questionnaires used to measure perceivers responses to the stimuli were 7-point semantic differential scales composed of 37 bipolar adjectives representing personal traits. Four aspects of clothing attitude(fashion interest, status symbols consiousness, clothing conformity, practicality & comfort)were used to classify subjects into groups of 20 five-point likers type questionnaires adapted from the previous research. Clothing appropriateness were developed 5 point likest scales for evaluation of a stimulus person in each context. The data was processed by factor analysis, ANOVA, multiple classification analysis, Duncan's multiple range test, cluster analysis, MANOVA and pearson's product moment correlations. The major findings drawn from this study were as follows: 1. Perceiver's clothing attitude influenced impression formed by the social contexts and clothing crises. In three groups classified by their clothing attitude, the status symbol-oriented group was most affected by the social contexts and clothing cues. 2. Perceiver's evaluation of clothing appropriateness was related with impressions by a stimulus person. In summary the effect of contexts and clothing cues on impression formation varied according to perceiver's clothing attitude and clothing approopiateness.
A Study on the Movement-Fitness according to the Surface changing of Lower-Limb -On the Movements and Shapes of Lower-limb-
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 2, 1996, Pages 257~269
The puropose of this study was to investigate the movement-fitness according to the surface changing of lower limb The experimental items were divided into the lower limb movements (5) and body-shapes (7). This study was done by the expansion and contraction rate consideration of length, girth Also, the lower half of body shape-change on the movements and body-shapes by flat shell was done simultaneously. The summarized findings resulted from experiments and investigation are suggested as follows; First, when commpared the expansion and contraction rate of the length and girth items, the expansion rate of the back crotch length (14~20%), hip girth (10~ 21%) and knee girth (6.2~18.5%) in rabbit leap movement was the most notable among all variables considered in this experimentation. On the others hand, the front croth length (-22~-52%) contracted remarkably. And big-thigh type was the most notable on the body-shape comparision. Second, in comparision of the expansion and contraction rate of the area on the blocks, the expansion of the hip (50~200%) and knee (51~74%) block was the most remarkable. Especially, in the sit on knees movement of the hip-down type expanded 209.4%. Third, in comparision of the lower half of body shape-change, on the movements and body- shapes by the flat shell, under the influence of knee-joint and hip-joint the shape-changs of the hip and knee block was the most notable. But the shape-change of the waist, abdomen, calf, and ankle was feeble.
The Effects of Bleaching or Washing on the Absorption of Softener (DSDMAC) (part 1)
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 2, 1996, Pages 270~281
This study was carried to figure out the effect of bleaching on the cationic surfactant (DSDMAC) absorption by cotton fabrics. And physico-chemical change, static electricity, and fabric stiffness of bleached cotton fabrics were measured. Cotton fabrics bleached with sodium hypochlorite soluton and with sodium percarbonate solution were used to analyze the DADMAC absorption. The results were as follows: 1. As the number of bleaching cycles were increased, the degree of oxidation on cotton fabrics was increased. So their carboxyl content was increased and their tensile strength was decreased. 2. DSDMAC absorption by cotton fabrics was increased by bleaching and was in propor- tion to carboxyl content. Therefore, it was groved that DSDMAC absorption by cotton fabrics was motivated by ion exchange mechanism. 3. The static electricity of cotton fabrics almost no change when bleached and unbleached absorption had no effect on the static electricity of cotton fabrics. 4. DSDMAC which was absorbed by cotton fabrics acted as a lubricant. DSDMAC absorption reduced the friction coefficient of yarn, so stiffness of cotton fabric was decreased.
Classification of the Somatotypes for the Construction of Young Women's Clothing (Part 1)
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 2, 1996, Pages 282~297
The effective construction for ready-made clothes is one of the central concerns of both consumers and manufactuers in today's apparel industry. In order to reduce the burden of stocks and increase clothing fitness, systematic information on typical body sizes and somatotypes is essential. The purpose of this study i-: to provide basic data on young women's somatotypes for form designers and pattern makers. The subjects of the survey were 310 women of 18 to 26 years old. The study collected 84 anthropometric data for each Person. The data was analyzed by using of the multivariate method. The factor analysis was utilized in regard to the 65 items obtained from anthropometric measurement respectively. The principal component analysis was applied to the data with orthogonal rotation after extraction. The factor scores used in the factor analysis became the basis of determining the value of each variable of the cluster analysis. The cluster analysis was applied for identifying typical somatotypes. Ward's minimum variance method was applied for the purpose of extracting distance metrix by the standardized Euclidean distance. The element forming each cluster can be subdivided into several sets by crosstabulation which is obtained by the fastclus of the SAS. This research has demonstrated 3 distinctive types of silhouette contour of the trunk. Incidentally it also identified 4 of the lower body from the waistline to thigh contour respectively. The discriminant analysis showed that the most significant discriminant factor of the trunk classification were side neck point -1 scapular -1 waistiline length and waist girth. In Korea, the average somatotype of female college students tends to be tall, slim and straight. Reviewing the relationship between the classifications of three parts of body, they are related to each other to some extent but their distribution are not constant. Therefore, in view of clothing construction, a proper separation of the body surface is a necessity.
A Study on the Effect of Attitude toward the Advertising according to Clothing Involvement - About Expression of the Jeans Advertising -
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 2, 1996, Pages 298~310
This research is designed to study the sales promotion strategy and advertising program which can provide the effective materials to the clothing industry. The purposes of this study are as follows. First, After college students are classified according to clothing involvement level, the relations between clothing involvement groups sand demographic variables, such as, sex, residence, pocket money, and clothing cost are understood. Second, attitude toward the expression of awertising according to clothing involvement is analyzed. Third, attitudes toward the expression of advertising were analyzed according to demo- graphic variables. Subjects were 474 students of universtiy in Seoul. This study was conducted by means of a questionnaire survey and random sampling method was used. In order to test the attitude toward advertising, the questionnaire was made through pre test and validity test. Study results were as follows. First, Subjects were divided into groups ccording to the clothing involvement level, and it was proved that sex, residence, pocket money, and clothing cost were related. Second, there was significance in attitude toward the expression of advertising according to clothing involvement level. Third, sex, residence, pocket money, clothing cost, reasonable level of cost were relatively connectd with attitude according to the expression of the jeans advertising.
Functional Design Process of Coveralls for the Improvement of Mobility
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 2, 1996, Pages 311~322
To accomodate workers with efficient mobility, coveralls were redesigned, construted and evaluated. In this study, especially, image processing techniques were applied to the evaluation stage, to quantify thE ease of body movement. For the initial observation stage, car-center workers were interviewed and their movements were videotaped. By analyzing the videotape, the area of stress and strains on the work clothes were marked on the figure chert and considered for the pattern making. 4DM cut pattern were applied to the upper part of the work clothes and other alternations were made throughout the problem area. Honey comb slashes were made on the problem area of the original and newly designed coveralls. Open areas of honey comb slashes due to body movement between the original and newly designed coveralls were analyzed by image processing techniques. Other objective and subjective evaluation of newly designed coveralls was compared with the original one. Overall evaluation of functionally designed coveralls was appered to be positive and the image processing techiques were useful methology to quantify the amount of stress in this study.
A Study on Rock'n'roll Fashion
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 2, 1996, Pages 323~335
The objective of this treatise is to study the effect which rock'n'roll had on fashion through the fashion of rock'n'roll stars and contemporary youngsters. The United states of America in the 1950's when rock'n'roll came into existence was an opulent and luxurious period. People's spare time increased and teenagers who grew up in oppulence after World War II emlerged. It was rock'n'roll that comprised the background of their culture. Rock'n'roll music, which was in the mixed form of Negro's rhythm and blues, and country -and-western of Southern hillbilly Rock'n'roll was expressed as a 'culture', characterized by both the luxurious and oppulent culture and the'anti-establishment' defying it. This cultural characteristic emerged as at once the conservative fashion following the contemporary fashion and the anti-establishment fashion in the rock'n'roll fashion. Therefore, the rock'n'roll fashion influenced by popular music became one momentum of including popular music among factors affecting the twentieth-century modern fashion.
A Study on the Use of Information Sources and the New Generation Women's Jeans Wearing Attitude
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 2, 1996, Pages 336~349
This dissertation was aimed to analyze correlation between jeans wearing attitude and the use of information sources which influnece the new generation consumers' marketing strategies of jeans industry. Subjects were 443 new generation women living in Seoul. Data were obtained by self administered qestionaire and analyzed by SPSS package. The main findings of this research are as follows : 1. A result of factor-analysis of the new generation consumers' jeans wearing attitudes variables were typed 5 factors of practicality pursuit, fashion pursuit, sexual attraction pursuit, individuality pursuit and famous brand pursuit. 2. A result of factor-analysis of the use of information sources variables were classified 4 factors of marketer-dominted sources, neutral sources, consumer.dominated sources and personal sources. 3. In anlysis between jeans wearing attitudes and demographic characteristics, fashion pursuit, individuality pursuit and sexual attraction pursuit showed significant difference partially 4. In analysis between the use of information sources and demographic characteristics, marketer-dominated, neutral and personal sources showed significant difference partially. 5. In correlation and regression between jeans wearing attitude and the use of information sources, there were high relations partially and fashion pursuit variable of jeans wearing attitude was the most influential.
Wear Performance of Pesticide Protective Clothing in Vinyl Plastic Hothouse made with Water-Oil Repellent and Dual Functional Finished Nonwoven Fabrics
Choi, Jong-Myoung ; Cho, Jeong-Sook ; Cho, Gil-Soo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 2, 1996, Pages 350~361
The objectives of this study mere 1) to investigate whether the different nonwoven fabric types influenced on the objective and subjective wear performances of the experimental pesticide protective pants, 2) to detect whether the different finishes treated to the nonwoven fabrics influenced on the objective and subjective wear performances of the experimental pants, and 3) to detect the relationships between objective wear performances and subjective wear sensation. Three types of nonwoven fabrics (T (Tyvek
), 5 (Sontara
) and K (Kimlon
)) were used as test specimens. By pad-dry.cure method, each of the specimen was treated with fluorocarbon compound for water-oil repellent finish (Tw, Sw, Kw). And each of specimen was treated with organic silicon quarternary ammonium salts and then treated with fluorocabon compound for dual functional finish (76, 50, Kd). Using the three water-oil repellent finished fabrics and the three dual functional finished fabrics, six experimental protective pants (Cl (Tw), C2 (Sw), C3 (Kw), C4 (76), C5 (56), C6 (Kd)) were made according to the same pattern suggested by the Rual Guidance Office. The wear trials of experimental pesticide protective pants were performed in a conditioned vinyl plastic hothouse (
R.H., 0.25m/sec air velocity). The measurements of skin temperature, microclimate temperature and humidity on the subjects were obtained by the themohygromenter. The subjective wear sensations were measured using previously developed thermal, humidity and overall comfort scales. The results obtained from this study were as follows: 1) There were siginificant differences among nonwoven fabric types on the objective and subjective wear performances, therefore, the skin temperature, microclimate temperature and humidity of subjects who wore the experimental pants made with Sontara were siginificantly lower than those who wore the others. And, the experimental pants made with Sontara were assessed as more comfortable than the others in terms of the subjective thermal, humidity and overall wear sensations. 2) There were no significant differences between two finish types on the objective and subjective wear Performances. 3) The microclimate humidity on the thigh was highly correlated with the overall subjective comfort sensations and the next highly correlated one was the mean skin temperature. That is, the higher the microclimate humidity and the mean skin temperature, the higher the overall subjective comfort sensation ratings which mean the overall subjective sensation was very uncomfortable.
A Study of Development of Evaluation Technique for the Subjective Clothing Comfort in Hot-humid Environment -Comparision between the utilization of Fuzzy theory and Factor Analysis-
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 2, 1996, Pages 362~372
Recently, need for the development of the quantification of subjective evaluation is growing for the production of high-touch and high-tech textile products. In this study, Fuzzy theory is utilized for the evaluation of the wear comfort of the various blouses. Result of a new evaluation method and factor scores, validity of the new evalution technique adopted fuzzy theory was crosschecked with the results of fator analysis and factor scores. As results, fuzzy theory was proved to be adequate methodology to objectify the subjective evaluation of the adequacy of clothing which is worn. When DUNCAN'S multiple comparion among median of the fuzzy composite score were compared with the results of factor score, the sensitivity of the test methods tends to increase. Therefore, it is suggested that fuzzy weighted checklist is an alternative evaluation scale for the subjective comparison of the textile products. In addition, individual median of fuzzy composite score value should be treated by statistical for the sensitive analysis of subjective evalution.
Classification and Analysis of the Somatotype of Middle-aged Women through Side View Silhouette
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 2, 1996, Pages 373~389
The purpose of this study was to classify the somatotype based on the side view and to analyze the characteristics of each somatotype. The subjects were 201 middle-aged women aged from 35 to 54. Data were collected through anthropometry and photometry and analyzed by factor analysis, cluster analysis, analysis of variance, and discriminant analysis. As the result of factor analysis for the classification of somatotypes, 6 factors which explain 80.8% of variance were extracted from 35 photometric measurement. Using factor scores cluster analysis was carried out and the subjects were classified into 4 cluster Each cluster was classified as straight type, turning over type, bending type and swayback according to its position to the relative plumb line and their side view contour. And 4 somatotypes were analyzed by theirs direct anthropometric and indirect Photometric measurment to represent physical characteristics of each group.
Detergency of Triolein in Mixed Burfactant Solutions
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 2, 1996, Pages 390~397
The effects of the mixture of surfactants on the removal of triolein applied to cotton and polyester fabrics were studied. The sunactants which were usually formulated to the Iriundry detergents, such as sodium dodecyl sulfonate (LAS), sodium lauryl sulfate (AS),
-olefin sulfonate (AOS, C=14), sodium laurethoxy sulfate (AES, EO=3) and lauryl ethoxylate (AE, EO=7) were used. Washing was done at 40'C, 60"C, 80'c and the surfactant concentration was 0.05%. Backscattered electron imaging was made to study the location of triolein in the yarns. Triolein was removed easily from polyester than cotton fabrics.01eic acid added triolein wa9 removed greater than triolein only, except in AE solutions. In AE solutions, the removal of triolein was increased as the tremperature went higher and the increasing rate of the removal of triolein only was greater than that of oleic acid added triolein. In the result, more triolein was removed from triolein only than from oleic acid added triolein at 80t When the other surfactant was added to LAS, AES was the best to cotton fabrics, AOS was to polyester fabrics. Triolein was located in the lumen and grooves of the fibers and the deeper interfiber spaces. Triolein did not make thin film arround the cotton fiber in the surface, but polyester fibers. These are the main reason why the removal of triolein was difficult from cotton fabrics.rics.