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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 20, Issue 6 - Nov 1996
Volume 20, Issue 5 - Sep 1996
Volume 20, Issue 4 - Jul 1996
Volume 20, Issue 3 - May 1996
Volume 20, Issue 2 - Mar 1996
Volume 20, Issue 1 - Jan 1996
Selecting the target year
Partial Heat Resistance of Hanbok When it Worn
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 4, 1996, Pages 565~572
The purpose of this study was to measure partial heat resistance of Hanbok when it worn. Since Hanbok varies from season to season, four different set of Hanboks (R, SN, p and S) were tested. Also Durumagi (D) which is worn over Hanbok (5) to keep warm from winter cold was tested as well. The thermal manikin was used in this experiment. The room temperature, air velocity and the relative humidity was set at
, 0.15 m/sec and
5% respectively. The mean skin temperature of the manikin was set at
. The results were as follows: 1. The order from the least total heat resistance to the most was SN, R, p, 5 and D. 2. Upper arms had the highest heat resistance among the 13 parts. The next was abdomen thighs, buttock, legs, forearms and chest, back, and head, the order from the most to the least.
A Study on the Beauty Characteristics Expressed Jean Fashion -Focusing on Counter-culture-
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 4, 1996, Pages 573~585
This study of counter-culture - the cultural background of the Jean Fashion of which express the consciousness and youthfulness of young - shows the various social, cultural developments and the direction of growth for the Jean industry Until now, the fashion trends flowed from the elite, upper-class minority to the general public : however, in the case of the Jean Fashion, it has spread inversely to the upper-class from the young people who have adopted the life-styles of the lower, middle class, working people. With the emphasis on Jean Fashion's establishment through and within a counter- culture influences, the first chapter explores the counter-culture's background theory and how fashion has metamorphisized within the counter-culture. The second chapter explores the image of the jeans within the society of the youth and the general public. Finally in the fourth chapter, this study divides the images of Jean Fashion within the youth and the general population into classifications of Feminism, Eroticism, Dismantlementation. Thus, 1 came to the conclusion that the above stated theories have had great influence on the Jean Fashion Industry. The conclusion of this study are as follows: 1 Jeans are the representative article of clothing of unisex appeal which is the core characteristic of Feminism. Feminism, which surfaced coincidentally with the emergence of jeans in the 1850s, took charge of expressing the freedoms and the wills of women. 2. Jeans, being the representative article of Eroticism, have firmly entrenched its image in the young people's wardrobe through mass media such as movies,
ic, and commercials. 3. In the 90s the tendencies of Defacement and Dismantlementation of Jeans developed. In the Dismantlement tendencies of colors, the color blue foretells of the century's coming to an end, and blue also expresses the superiority of spirit and intelligence which transcends materialism.
A Study of Relationship between Organizational Characteristics and the Usage Level of Quick Response Technologies
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 4, 1996, Pages 586~595
A Study on the Property of the Foot Form of Early Childhood Children from Three to Six Years old(I) -On the Difference of the Age and the Sex-
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 4, 1996, Pages 596~608
For design of early childhood children's footwear, this study was to analyze the properties of their foot. This study was performed in 200 male and 200 female early childhood children from 3 and 6 years old lived in susan urban area. There were measured 17 items of the foot and calculated 4 indexs for analysis. The result was as follows; 1 The growth rate differs from the sites of a foot. According to the growth of age, early childhood children's foot are more slender. 2. The average of foot print angle is
and it is flat. Among the age groups, the numbers of 4 kinds of foot print angle are different siginificantly. 3. The average of metatarso phalanx angle is
that is higher than adults'. 4. There are no significant difference between male children's foot and female childen's one except tarsal circumference and tarsal height. Tarsal part of male children is higher and ticket than female children's. 5. Because some of 3~6 age groups belong to the one foot length group, we should consider the age properties of foot in order to design footwears. When the size of footwear is divided by only foot length, the ranges of another measurements are larger than the range of foot length.
Effects of Alkali Treatment on Physical Properties of PET Fabrics
Yu, Hye-Ja ; Choe, Jong-Myeong ; Lee, Hye-Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 4, 1996, Pages 609~619
Polyethylene Terephthalate (PET) has been used as a mainstream fiber to make silklike fiber. The silky characteristics such as softness, dry touch feeling and flexibility can be obtained by weight reduction treatment. In aqueous alkali solution, the surface of PET is dissolved away and reduced in weight. The PET fiber, yarn and fabric become thinner and the gaps between fibers are wider. Its mobility is greatly improved without change of basic structures of the treated PET fibrics. The alkali treatment was conducted under the various experimental conditions such as alkali (NaOH) concentration, treatment time and temperature. As the weight loss increased, drapability improved and tensile strength remarkably reduced. When the PET fabrics lost 30% in their weight, drape coefficient lowered as much as 30oA and tensile stregth lowered as much as 50%. The weight loss over 30% brings great improvement in drapability and dyeability and significant decline in durability. By the alkali treatment, absorbency in spectrophotometer of dyed PET can be increased as much as 82% due to the increase of the surface area and formation of microvoids on the surface.
Overlap of Innovativeness and Opinion Leadership of Male Consumers Across Product Class
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 4, 1996, Pages 620~630
This study identified overlap of male innovativeness and of opinion leadership across product class. Product class include clothing, hairstyle and cosmetics, small electronic appliances, large electronic appliances, interior supplies, sports and leisure supplies, and cars. 423 male adults working in Seoul area was surveyed using questionnaire. Results of statistical analysis supported that innovativeness and opinion leadership are not monomorphic but polymorphic across product class. Higher degree of overlap and higher degree of correlationship of innovativness and of opinion leadership exist across product class which share similar characteristics such as clothing-cosmetics, small electronic appliances-large electronic appliances. Innovative communicator ranged from 5.0% to 11.4% in which percentage of innovative communicator was highest in the case of clothing purchase.
A Study on the Visual Evaluation about Silhouete Image -Based on X-line-
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 4, 1996, Pages 631~646
The purpose of this study was to investigate the difference of visual evaluation about silhouette image. The specific objective were; 1) to construct of silhouette image evaluation instrument using semantic differential scale for the purpose of measuring the width and length; 2) to identify the factor structure of the silhouette; 3) to test the difference of visual perception to the silhouette as the variation of width; 4) to test the difference of visual perception to the silhouette as the variation of length; 5) to test interaction effect between width and length. The major finding were; For the visual evaluation of silhouette as shoulder width variatiorl, there were significant difference in hardness and softness factor. For the hard and soft image, we should express by variation of the shoulder width. For the visual evaluation of silhouette as skirt width variation, there were significant difference in attention factor. For the attensive image, we should express by variation of the skirt width. For the visual evaluation of silhouette as skirt length variation, there were significant difference in activity factor. For the active image, we should express by variation of the skirt length.
The Effect of Fiber Type, Compressional Resilience and Moisture Transport Properties of Fiber on the Heat Transfer of Insulating Nonwovens
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 4, 1996, Pages 647~654
The purpose of this study was to analyze the effect of fiber type, compressional resilience and moisture transport properties of wool and polyester fiber on the heat transfer of insulation nonwovens. The results obtained were as follows: 1) Overall heat transfer of wool nonwoven was slightly higher than that of polyester nonwovens. Warmability of wool nonwoven was lower than that of polyester nonwovens. The radiative heat transfer was in the range of 11~18% of overall heat transfer in polyester nonwovens and 25% in wool nonwoven. 2) As wool nonwoven compressed, overall heat transfer was increased by increasing radiative heat transfer and wamability was decreased due to the poor compressional resilience. 3) Increasing rate of heat transfer by moisture absorption in wool nonwoven was lower than that of polyester nonwovens. Thickness and compressional resilience of wool nonwoven were reduced extremely by moisture absorption.
Effect of Pretense (Subtilisin Carlsberg) on the Removal of Blood Protein Soil (II) -The Detergency of Hemoglobin from Cotton Fabics-
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 4, 1996, Pages 655~666
The effect of protease (subtilisin Carlsberg) on the removal of hemoglobin as protein soil was studied. The relation between the renloval and the hydrolysis of hemoglobin by subtilisin Carlsberg was discussed. The soiled babric was prepared by spotting of hemoglobin solution evenly on the cotton fabric and was denatured by steaming. The soiled fabric was washed by using Terg-0-Tometer at various conditions. The removal efficiency was evaluated by analysis of protein on the fabrics before and after washing by means of copper-Folin method. 1. The removal of hemoglobin was increased in proportion to increasing of the enzyme concentration up to a certain point, but it began to decrease above the point. 2. The hemoglobin was removed effectively by adding of subtilisin Carlsberg, and more effectively removed by adding of AOS in the enzyme solution. 3. The removal of hemoglobin deviated from the first order reaction in detergency. 4. The renloval of hemoglobin was highest at
in detergency, Even at low temperature the removal efficiency of enzyme was relatively higher compared with the hydrolysis of hemoglobin by the enzyme. However the removal of hemoglobin was apparently decreased with the increase of temperature over
. 5. The removal of hemoglobin was relatively high at pH 7.0~8.0 and increased continuously with the increase of pH in detergency 6. In detergency, the removal mechanism of hemoglobin by subtilisin Carlsberg could be explained as follows: Fisrt of all, the enzyme hydrolyzed hemoglobin substrates partially by forming E-S complex at the surface of hemoglobin on the cotton fiber, and decomposed cooperative binding of hemoglobin. Subsequently, the fragments of hemoglobin were easily removed by washing. According as the enzyme penetrated to inner part of hemoglobin gradually, the hemoglobin on the cotton fiber was effectively removed by the repetition of these process. The removal of hemoglobin was more effectively increased by adding both the enzyme and AOS in the washing solution. Therefore, it was regarded that AOS molecules were adsorbed at the hydrophobic surface of denatured hemoglobin, subsequently, decomposed more effectively cooperative binding of hemoglobin, and the fragments of hemoglobin were removed more efficiently by means of the interfacial reaction of AOS.
The Effects of Egocentrism, Self-Consciousness, Body Cathexis on Adolescence Clothing Behavior
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 4, 1996, Pages 667~681
The purposes of this study were 1) to identify the effects of age and sex on adolescent's psychological characteristics-egocentrism, self-consciousness, body cathexis and clothing behaviors and 2) to identify the effects of psychological characteristics on clothing behaviors in each of the 6 groups classified by sex and age. Egocentrism was measured by Kim's Imaginary Audience Scale, and body cathexis, by the modified record and Jourard"s Body Cathexis Scale. Buss's Self-Consciousness Scale was slightly modified to assess public and private self-consciousness, and five aspects of clothing behavior were assessed with the questionnaires from the previous studies. The questionnaire were administered to 713 middle and high school boys and girls, and college students living in Seoul. Data were analyzed by frequency, factor Analysis, two-way ANOVA, and multiple regression analysis. The results of this study were as follows: 1) Four factors of egocentrism were identified : Potency, Appearance/populatity, Sympathy and Justice. Four factors of clothing behavior were Clothing exhibition/dressing for others, Clothing interest, Psychological dependence, and Clothing conformity. 2) Sex and age were found to have effects on psychological variables and clothing behaviors of adolescence. Females showed higher egocentrism, self- consciousness, clothing behaviors, but lower body cathexis than males. The mean scores of egocentrism, self-consciousness, clothing behaviors tended to increase with age. However, high school boys showed unique tendency, as they showed higher scores in those variables than the other two age groups. 3) Egocentrism (Appearance/populality factor) and public self- consciousness were the most influencial variables on adolescent's clothing behavior among psychological characteristics. Private self-consciousness was found to be an important variable in explaining Psychological dependence.ence.
A Study on the Preparation and Characterization of Highly Deacetylated Chitosan
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 4, 1996, Pages 682~689
A preparative method has been proposed for obtaining chitosan products which have a desired degree of deacetylation (DD, %) without much decrease in molecular weight. Deacetylation was prepared by two methods. The method I which was proposed by Domard etc. was that DMSO/thiophenol was used repeatedly only during the deacetylation, the method II was that DMSO/thiophenol was used after the alkali treatment. Then, effective deacetylation was performed by the method ll. To determine the degree of deacetylation, potentiometric titration method was adopted. According to the increase of DD, the viscosity average moleclar weght
) and the DP of the chitosan products were decreased. The intensity of FT-lR peak appeared at
, which was characteristic peak of amide I (Nacetyl secondary amide group), was gradually decreased with deacetylation. X-ray analysis showed that the lattice-spacing in the chitosan film increased with the degree of deacetylation, but the difference of the transparency of the chitosan products was not diverged significantly.
The Surface Tension Components of Mixed Surfactant Solutions
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 4, 1996, Pages 690~696
In order to study the affect of surfactants on the soil removal, the dispersion and polar force components of surface tension for surfactant solutions (such as LAS, AS, AOS, AES, AE) were calculated using extended Fowkes equation. The contact angles on paraffin and surface tension of surfactant solutions were measured. Cmcs of LAS, AS, AES and AE were below the concentration of 0.05%, but the cmc of AOS was between 0.05% and 0.1%. The surface tension of AE was lowest but the dispersion force component was greastest. Total surface tension of every mixed anionic surfactant was lower than that of single surfactants, and the dispersion force components were almost decreased. The addition of sodium carbonate to the sufactant solutions decreased the surface tension, and the surface tensions of surfactant solutions were lowered after washing.
Effect of Ondol on physiological Responses during Sleep (I) -On the focus of Bedclimate in Autumn and Winter-
Lee, Sun-Won ; Gwon, Su-Ae ; Choe, Jeong-Hwa ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 4, 1996, Pages 697~706
The actual conditions of bed climate are investigated depending on the regions and housing styles used on ondol in autumn and winter. Sixty healthy men and women (30 of them live in apartmrnt and 30 of them live in detached house, 20 of them live in Wonju, 20 of them live in Wonju, 20 of them live in Cheongju and 20 of them live in Pusan) The results are as follows: 1) No significant differences was shown between the seasons of bedclothes thickness. 2) In the autumn, the temperature and humidity of bedroom, on the mattress, inside the bedquilt, and inside the sleep-wear were higher than those in the winter. The temperature of ondol floor and under the mattress in winter were higher than those in the autumn. 3) The differences of the temperature and humidity of bedroom, the bed climate, and the clothing microclimate were significant by the regions and housing styles in both seasons. In both seasons, the temperature of bedroom, on the mattress, inside sleep-wear in the apartment were higher than those in the detached house. 4) The differences of subjective sensation on the bedroom conditions were not significant by the sextons, the regions, and the housing styles. Most subjects perceived that the conditions of bedroom were somehow hot and dry, but comfortable.