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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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Volume & Issues
Volume 20, Issue 6 - Nov 1996
Volume 20, Issue 5 - Sep 1996
Volume 20, Issue 4 - Jul 1996
Volume 20, Issue 3 - May 1996
Volume 20, Issue 2 - Mar 1996
Volume 20, Issue 1 - Jan 1996
Selecting the target year
The Effects of Bleaching or Washing on the Absorption of Softener (DSDMAC) (Part 2)
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 5, 1996, Pages 711~717
This study was carried to figure out the effect of washing on the cationic surfactant (DSDMAC) absorption by nylon fabrics washed with anionic surfactant(SDBS). Cationic surfactant absorption, static electricity, and fabric stiffness of washed and unwashed nylon fabrics were estimated. And to check the correlation between DSDMAC absorption and SDBS absorption, SDBS absorption by nylon fabrics were measured The results were as follows; 1. Nylon fabrics washed with SDBS absorbed more DSDMAC than unwashed fabrics. The more SDBS absorbed by nylon fabrics, the more DSDMAC absorbed. This is account for the increase in negative zeta potential of washed nylon fabrics. 2. Absorption of SDBS by nylon fabrics increased static electricity. Absorption of DSBMAC by washed and unwashed nylon fabrics greatyl decreased static electricity, and static electricity of washed nylon fabrics more decreased than that of unwashed nylon fabrics. 3. When washing cycles were under 20, DSDMAC absorption decreased fabric stiffness. As washing cycles were over 20, DSDMAC deposited as particles acted as points of weak adhesion between adjacent fibers, so increased the fabric stiffness.
Study on Korean Design based on Traditional Striped Clothes (Saikdong) (1)
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 5, 1996, Pages 718~727
"Saikdong" is a material that represents the Korean aesthetic behavioral pattern of colors. It shows the unique harmony of the color combination with the use of simple combined colors. The objective of this paper is two-folded. First, it is to explore the direction of Korean Design. Secondly, it is to find out aesthetic charateristics and consciousness in Saikdong. 17 traditional costumes made with the designs of Saikdong were selected from three museums in Seoul. The most properly matched color hues selected after comparing each color with the Pantone Textile Color Specifier. The results were shown as follows. 1. Korean design is to recreate the traditional objects considering the contemporary circumstances. 2. Contrast effects in lightness and saturation are very noticeable in Saikdong. Saikdong maintains the same widths of color stripes with the asymmetric balance of hues which give the rhythmical arrangement of colors. 3. Sikdong contains the shamanic wishes that everything is going well and the desire for the beauty. 4. The aesthetic consciousness of Saikdong has turned out to be happiness and harmonizing.rmonizing.
Modification of Wool Treated with Alkali and Alkali/CTAB (I) -Changes of chemical properties-
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 5, 1996, Pages 728~737
The purpose of this study is to investigate the change of the chemical properties of wool treated with six kinds of alkali (NaOH, Naac03, NH40H, NH2CH3CH30H, TMAH and BTMAH) with or without CTAB. Content of bound fatty acid liberated from wool surface, elemental composition and allw6rden time were measured to compare the surface modification of untreated and alkali treated wool. Also, the chemical degradation of the fiber was investigated by measuring cystine contents and urea-hydrogensulfite solubility. The result were as follows: 1. By the alkali treatment of wool, the covalently bound fatty acid of the epicuticle was removed and the allworden time was shortened, and in the case of wool treated with TMAH, BTMAH, the allw6rden sacs were formed unevenly and rarely. Also, cystine contents and urea-hydrogensulfite solubility were decreased by alkali treatment on wool. 2. The modification of epicuticle and the chemical degradation of wool were occurred due to alkaline hydrolysis in the order of TMAH, BTMAH > NaOH, Na3c03> NH2CH3CHaOH, NH40H. 3. As a treating time increased, the modification of epicuticle and chemical degradation of wool were accelerated. By the addition of CTAB to the alkali solution, the modification of epicuticle was increase, and the cystine contents and urea-hydrogensulfite solubility were reduced than that of wool teated with alkli without CTAB due to reduction of negative charge on the wool surface by the adhesion of CTAB.
Interactive Effects of Usage-Situations and Personal Characteristics on Benefit Soughts of Clothing and Preference of Brand Type
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 5, 1996, Pages 738~752
The purposes of this study were 1) to test the interactive effects of usage-situation (wedding receptions, home, and vacation) and personal characteristics (age, income, education, job or self-monitoring) on clothing benefits sought and 2) to identify brand type preference of consumer groups segmented by age, income, education, job or self-monitoring within a situation. The data were collected via a questionnaire from 601 housewives of ages 20's∼ 50's living in Seoul, Korea. The data were analyzed by factor analysis, repeated measure two-way ANOVA and Chi-square test. The results of this study were as follows. First, by repeated measure tow-way ANOVA, there were significant interactions of age and situation, and interactions of education and situation on Youth/Fashion benefits and Brand-value benefits. And interactive effects of education and situation on Self-expression benefits and Economic-value benefits were significant by repeated measure two-way A NOVA. Second, based on x2-test, brand type preference was significant difference between consumer groups segmented by age, education and job within a situation. And preferences of brand type were different among usage situations.
The Effect of Necktie Color and Patterns on the Image Formation of the Men's Suit
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 5, 1996, Pages 753~768
The purpose of this study is to find out the effect of suit color, necktie color and necktie patterns on the men's suit image formation. The experimental materials developed for this study were a set of stimuli and response scales. The stimuli were 28 color pictures manipulated with suit color, necktie color and necktie patterns by computer drawing. The experimental design consists of 3 factorial design; 1) suit color (navy blue, beige), 2) necktie color (analogous, complimentary color), 3) necktie patterns (plain, dot, stripe, check, paisley, floral, abstract) The 7-point semantic differential response scale designed for visual evaluation of men's suit image on suit color, necktie color and necktie patterns were composed of 34 bipolar adjectives. The subject are 150 female undergraduate students in Chin-ju city. They responded twice to 14 stimuli at random order The result of this study are as follows; 1. By analyzing the responses of the subjects, 4 factors emerged in the dimensional structure of the men's suit image formed by suit color, necktie color and necktie patterns. The 4 factors are charm, potency, uniqueness and tenderness. Among these, charming and potential factors proved to be more important. 2. necktie color, suit color and neckite patterns had the significant effect on the formation of men's suit image. In the charm image, only necktie patterns were proved to be the most dominant variable. The most dominant variable in the potencial and unique image was necktie color and second to it suit color was important. But suit color was most significant in the image of tenderness. 3. In the effects of interactions between each variables, the combination of suit color and necktie color wins more significant than that of suit color and necktie patterns and that of necktie color and necktie patterns, but in the image of tenderness, only the combination of suit color and necktie color was more significant. In the interaction of suit color, necktie color and necktie patterns, the potential factor didn't have the significant effect.
A Study on Social Class and Clothing Behavior
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 5, 1996, Pages 769~782
This study intends to contribute to developing an effective marketing strategy targeting women in their 40's and 50's by classifying them into social classes and analyzing their wearing and purchasing behavior. The subject of this study are 344 women in their 40's and 50's living in Seoul, and the model sampling is done by allotment sampling. Modified survey based on references and former studies is used, and SAS package is used for analysis. The results of data analysis are as follows: 1. Women in their 40's and 50's are classified into 3 social classes, and the most influencial factor in the classification of social class is found to be total monthly income. 2 Clothing image of which each social class wear are proven to be significantly different among 3 classes. However, specific garment styles they wear are proven not to be significantly different. 3. Clothing purchasing behavior factors such as informants, clothing selection standards, store selection standards, place of purchase, shopping time, frequency of purchase, price of purchase, and paying methods are proven to be significantly different among 3 social classes. 4. Marketing strategies for each social class are provided based on these results.
The Effect of Alkali Treatment on the Hand of Polyester Fabrics
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 5, 1996, Pages 783~791
The effect of alkali treatment on the changes in characteristics, mechanical properties, and hand of polyester fabrics was studied. Two kinds of fabrics having different yarn deniers were treated varying weight loss. The results were as follows; 1. Changes in constructional characteristics by alkali treatment were: a decrease in weight & thickness of fabric, a decrease in yarn denier, a decrease in apparent density of fabric, an increase in porosity to air, and a change fiber surface. 2. As for the changes in mechanical properties by alkali treatment, findings were : an increase in WT, RT, MIU, LC, and WC, a decrease in LT, B,2HB, G,2HG,2HGS, MMD, SMD, and RC, ana an increase in drape. 3. Changes in hand by alkali treatment were: a decrease in KOSHI and HARE, an increase in FUUURAMI, SHARI, KISHIMI, and SHENAYAUASA, and an increase in T.H.V 4. In the case of the same weight loss, the hand of 40/24 fabric being composed of thinner yarns was better than the hand of 50/24 fabric. 5. When 50/24 fabric was treated to have the same weight with 40/24 fabric, so the yam deniers of two fabrics were the same, the hand of 50/24 fabric having larger weight loss was better than the hand of 40/24 fabric.
Study on the Evaluation of D.P. and Handle for Vapor Phase Finished Fabrics
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 5, 1996, Pages 792~800
The shape retention finishing provides a fabric for easiness of no-ironing after laundering. In spite of the obvious importance of the new finishing treatment, few systematic studies have been performed on the handle of the fabrics finished by the durable press process. The purpose of this research is to investigate the relationships among the mechanical properties, durable press conditions, primary hand values and the total hand value of the fabrics finished by shape retention process. In this experiment, durable press grade of unfinished fabrics decreased below 2.5, but those of finished fabrics maintained above 4, but the mechanical properties of finished fabrics did not change significantly after laundering. In finished fabrics, D.P. value were correlated with mechanical properties, but had little effects with H.V. and T.H.V. Since the evaluation of the effect of durable press process was done with the naked eyes and standard sample, we could not know exactly change o( mechanical properties, but trace the change of mechanical properties which gave influences on the durable press effects by using KES-FB System.
A Study on the Bisexuality in Fashion Design - Concentrating of Fashion Since the 1960's -
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 5, 1996, Pages 801~816
The study is in depth an analysis of the consciousness structured in unisex, androgyny, punk and postmodernism fashion in order to explain the dominant bisexual trend in fashion since the 1960's. Bisexuality in fashion can be interpreted as an effort in recovering the attitude within commentarialism, as opposed to the dichotomous split of the sexes. It is a reflection of the fundamental desire to be as one and implies "freedom" as an expression of feminism and postmodernism furthermore. Bisexuality is a reactionary movement in fashion which encompasses adaptive ways to the world we now inhabit. It is also a clear picture of the necessity of destroying the dichotomous sexuality in order to achieve the freedom and the importance of realizing as a whole the oneness of human kind. Bisexuality in fashion primarily is the pursuit of a new perspective on the human entity required in the modern world. Namely a communitarian spirit devoid of sexual prejudices. And secondly, it is a phenomenon reflecting the transitional woes of the pluralistic society experiencing deconstructivism and reconstructivism.ructivism.
Effects of Task Involvement on Clothing Gift-Giving
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 5, 1996, Pages 817~825
A portion of several previous studies has been that when a product is to be presented as a gift it entaials a greater expenditure of time and money than when the same product is to be used by the buyer. While this might suggest that gift-giving is an especially involving purchasing sitution, the research to date has not been consistent in its evidence to support this view. One reason for this inconsistency in findings may be suggested that different gift-giving situations show considerably different levels of givers' task involvement. The present study designs to gain some descreptive understanding of the clothing gift-giving, and to test the relationship between varibles related to clothing gift-giving and task involvement of clothing gift-giving through different gift-giving senarios. Data (N=463) were collected via a questionnaire from housewives living in Pusan, and were analyzed by factor analysis, t-test, and cannonical analysis. Results support that differences in task involvement of clothing gift -giving cause different consumer behaviors in relation to clothing gift-giving.
Effects of Consumers' Perception of Shopping Cost and Recreational Shopping Orientation on Catalog Shopping of Apparel
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 5, 1996, Pages 826~840
With rapid changes in social and marketing environments, catalog retailing emerges as a new method of selling clothes in Korea. In catalog shopping, in-store and multi·store search behavior are omitted saving consumers time and effort. On the other hand, consumers may lose recreational enjoyment of shopping when they purchase clothes through catalog. In this study, consumers perception of shopping cost and recreational shopping orientation were tested as consumer characteristic intervening catalog shopping behavior. The concept of shopping cost was derived from Darian(1987)'s analysis of cost and benefit of store shopping and in-home shopping. A national sample of 700 adult women was surveyed and 477 questionnaires were returned and used for statistical analysis. Nine shopping cost perception variables were found to have significant positive relationships with the purchase intention of apparel through catalog. As a result of confirmatory factor analysis, two factors of shopping cost were found; perception of lack of shopping time and perception of store search effort. Causal modeling of LISREL analysis showed that percetion of lack of shopping time was strongly related with patronizing intention of catalog shopping. Since catalog shopping exclude enjoyment of store shopping activity, it can be logically inferred that recreational store shoppers have less chance of being catalog shoppers. However, the result of LISREL analysis showed that there were no negative relationship between recreational shopping orientation and catalog shopping intention. This suggests that consumers might experience enjoyment of shopping through catalog when properly presented.
Influence of Cellulase Treatment Conditions on Backstaining of Indigo Denim
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 5, 1996, Pages 841~851
The purpose of this study is to investigate the backstaining generated during cellulase treatment for indigo-dyed denim. The results were as follows. 1. High generating conditions of the backstaining were as same as best conditions for cellulose activity (temperature at 6
, pH at about 4.5~5.5, treatment time at 40 min. and enzyme concentration at 2g/l). And also, liquor ratio, sample weight and repeated-use cycle of liquor had influenced on the backstaining. 2. The backstaining was decreased about 30~40% when various additives, that is, surfactant, anti-backstaining agent (C.M.C) and softners were added. 3. A application of image processing on the backstaining evaluation was more effective than method by reflectance, particullarly in out of level fabrics. In image analysis, the backstainings were measured by histogram between 256 gray levels.
A Study on the Mechanism of Arm Surface Changes for the development of Sleeve Drafting Standard
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 5, 1996, Pages 852~859
The factors and mechanism of arm surface changes were analyzed by regression analysis for the relationship between changes in arm joint angle and arm surface changes, according to the direction of upper extremity motion. Body surface change patterns among subjects were tested also. Experiments were carried out on 3 female subjects of different body types to examine 26 motions in 4 directions for 4 upper extremity parts. The major conclusions of the study are as follows: 1. The expansion or contraction of arm surface length depends on the direction of upper extremity motion. 2. Arm surface length changes by linear expansion or contraction according to the joint angle of the direction of motion. The mechanism of arm surface changes is represented by a linear relation between arm surface changes and the (actors of the direction of upper extremity motion and arm joint angle. 3. Arm surface length shows the same pattern of body surface changes regardless of body type. A quantitative model of body surface changes at upper extremity should be developed for functional sleeve design.
A View of Costume in the Early Practical Science School in Chosun Dynasty
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 5, 1996, Pages 860~869
This study is a research for an idea of costume containing clothing system in the early Practical Science School. The result are described as follows 1. Bak-Kyem, Han got a critical thought and attitude to seek for practical and rational as pect. Because that he studied an original text and wanted to find a basic meaning. And the result, he made a Pang-Ryeong Symeui. 2. Hwyeng-won, Rue contended that we had to model after chinese costume system to seek for a correct clothing system to harmonize with our culture and regulation. And he sought for the original courtesy because that his basic idea of reformation in the clothing system was an ancient system. But when there was a remedy, he suggested a new system. 3. Ik, lee considered a clothing system with a critical and investigated attitude. In the clothing system, he wanted to keep an original courtesy. But he asserted a constant reformation in evil tradition. He pursued a rationality not to be tied a formality, and he had also a flexibility to recognize real customs.
A Study of Antibacterial and Aromatic Fibers Using Microeapsule of Antibiotics and Perfume (2) - application of microcapsule to fabric -
Kim, Ho-Jeong ; Park, Cha-Cheol ; Kim, Han-Do ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 5, 1996, Pages 870~876
Microcapsules containing 2,4,4'-trichloro-2-hydroxydiphenyl ether (DP) and perfumes were prepared by the coacervation using poly (vinyl alcohol) and crosslinking agents. Internal phase content, percent releasing of core materials, antimicrobial activities of microcapsules and fabrics treated with them were investigated. The internal content of microcapsules containing perfumes and DP are increased with increasing perfumes. The internal content of cacharia in the microcapsue was higher than that of lemon and its maimum value was 93%. The microcapsules containing perfumes and DP did not release cacharia and lemon at roonl temperature. But the amount of perfumes released from microcapsules were increased with temperature and time of microcapsules containing DP and perfumes showed 100% reduction percentage of bacteria. The size of obstruction of fabrics treated with microcapsule containing DP and perfumes were increased with DP content in microcapsules.
Interactive Effects of Situation and Personal Characteristics on Perceived Risk, Importance of Store Attributes and Store-Type Choice
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 5, 1996, Pages 877~892
The purpose of this was to test the interactive effects of usage situation and personal characteristics on perceived risk, importance of store attributes and store-type choice. The data were collected via a questionnaire from 601 housewives of ages 20's∼ 50's living in Seoul, Korea, and analyzed by factor analysis and repeated measure two-way ANOVA. The results of this study were as follows: First, the interactive effect of age and situation on economic risk was significant. Second, the significant infraction of age and situation on importance of product price/variety was found, and there were significant intractions of education and situation on importance of service/convenience, discount policy and product information sources/promotion. Third, the interactive effects of situation and personal characteristics (age, income, education or job) on store-type choice (brand chain store, discount store, department store, designer boutique, local store or a wholesale market) were significant.
Integrative Approach for Improving Washing Machines (I) - Survey and Diary Method -
Yu, Hye-Gyeong ; O, Gyeong-Hwa ; Jo, Yong-Jin ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 5, 1996, Pages 893~904
The main purpose of this research was to examine the purchase and use behavior of consumers related to washing machines in order to develope strategies to increase competitiveness of washing machines manufactured in Korea. Purchase and use behavior related to washing machines were examined by survey method and detailed information on washing conditions and usage of washing machines were obtained by diary method. 398 questionnaires were analyzed in the survey and 35 housewives participated in keeping the records of their washings for 30 days. The results of the survey showed that price and a tangle of clothes were the most determinant factors for purchase of washing machines and the knowledge related to washing was relatively low The diary method revealed that washing loads and frequencies of washing increase with the household size, and functions of washing machines except water level are infrequently used. Comparisons between the survey and diary results indicated that consistency between the two methods depends on the types of questions.
The Degradation of Cotton Fabrics by Bleaching Agents in Detergents
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 5, 1996, Pages 905~914
To study the effect of the bleaching agents in detergents on the degradation of cotton fabrics, the carboxyl contents, copper numbers, degree of polymerization, the change of tensile strengths and fiber surfaces of cotton fabric before and after washing were examined. The results obtained were as follows: As the cycles and temperature of washing increased, the carboxyl content of washed cotton fabric changed little but the copper unmber of cotton fabric was increased. At 6
the copper number of cotton fabric washed with soidum perborate (PB) was higher than that of with sodium percarbonate (PC). The degree of polymeriazation and tensile strength of cotton fabric were decreased and at higher temperature those were more decreased but were less decreased when tetraacetyehylenediamine (TAED) was added. The degree of polymerization had negative relation with copper unmber but with tensile strength of cotton fabric had positive relation. Cotton fiber surface was more degraded by bleaching agents and hydrogen peroxide exhaustion was increased as the temperature of washing increased. And hydrogen peroxide exhaustion had negative relation with the degree of polymerization.
The Study on the Visual illusions and the Image of the Clothing by the Computer Simulation through the combination of the collars and the sleeves
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 5, 1996, Pages 915~929
The purpose of this study is to investigate the visual illusions and image of the combinated collars and sleeves which are combinated by the computer simulation. The detail object of this study as follows; 1) to know the visual illusions of the clothing as the collar and sleeves are combinated 2) to constract the clothing image using sementic differential scales 3) to know the differet image of the clothing as the collars and sleeves are combinted 4) to know the interaction effect of the collars and sleeves of the clothing The detail method of this study is as follows; In the first experiment, there are two groups; the first 8 groups are the combination of the same collar and the different sleeves. The second 8 groups are the combination of the same sleeve and the different collars. The second experiment has done for the 32 clothings which are the combination of the 8 collars and 4 sleeves. For the 14 clothing the image has tested by 13 semantic differential bi- polar scale. The subjects were 50 female students majoring in clothing and textile. The data analyzed by Kendall cofficient of concodance, Factor analysis, Anova and scheffe's test. Briefly the image of the clothing is much influenced by the varing of the collar than that of the sleeve. Thus, we also can conclude that the recognition of the clothing are much more dependent on the collar than sleeve.
Body Surface Changes at Armhole Area for the Pattern of Armhole Line
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 5, 1996, Pages 930~942
This study was done to provide the characteristics of body surface changes at armhole area. Experiments were carried out at upper arm and upper body inchuding 67 items, 74 segments by the stanard posture and arm movements. The subjects were 15 females of twenty aged. The major conclusions of this study are; 1. On the circumference items of upper arm, armhole circumference was decreased by all arm movement, especially high contracted on front armhole line. The most contracted segments of armhole circumference were from the shonlder point to front and back interscye breadth point. Axillary circumference was increased 5 cm to the utmost, so the function of sleeve pattern would be decided by axillary circumference. 2. The lengths of upper arm were decreased near center line, sleeve cap length was contracted 3∼4 cm. Posterior armpit point area was increased both length and breadth. According to the rates of expansion and contraction, the diagram of expansion and contraction of upper arm was suggested. 3. On upper body, back side chest breadth was increased exceedingly and shoulder length was decreased most. It was apparent that surface changes of upper body were greatly larger as far away from center front and center back line. The rates of expansion and contraction of upper body were also represented as a diagram of surface changes.