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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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Journal DOI :
The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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Volume & Issues
Volume 20, Issue 6 - Nov 1996
Volume 20, Issue 5 - Sep 1996
Volume 20, Issue 4 - Jul 1996
Volume 20, Issue 3 - May 1996
Volume 20, Issue 2 - Mar 1996
Volume 20, Issue 1 - Jan 1996
Selecting the target year
A Study on Split Grading of the Apparel CAD Systems
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 6, 1996, Pages 947~961
The study is about the grading methods for the apparel CAD systems. So far the shift grading is used mostly in the industry. But the split grading has its advantage such as less data Input which is required for grading. So the research is aimed to prove that the split grading is not accurate than the shift grading and more efficient in speed, and to give the guidance of the split grading so that the split grading method can be applied in future apparel CAD systems more often. The results of the research were: 1. Split yarding produced graded patterns as accurate as shift grading. Yet split grading was more efficient and convenient because it required less data input than shift grading. 2. The 10 grading charts were grouped into 3 groups by the bust girth intervals, 3 cm grading, 4 cm grading and 5cm grading. 3. The grading areas were varied depending on the grament designs, gradre's skill and the grading intervals. 4. Guidance for the split grading was suggested.
Body Cathexis and Satisfaction with Clothing Size of Elderly Women (I)
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 6, 1996, Pages 962~974
This study aimed to provide basic data in designing clothes for the elderly women. The subjects in this study were 230 elderly women over sixty years old. The major objectives of this study were as follow; 1 Categorization of the subjects based on their age and Rohrer index. 2. Relationship between age and body cathexis. 3. Relationship between age and clothing size satisfaction. 4. Relationship between age and clothing attitudes. The results were as follows; 1. Height decreased while bust, waist and hip circumstances increased with ageing. 2. All subjects were dissatisfied with their body changes associated with ageing. 3. The women over seventy years old were more dissatisfied with apparel size than those in the sixties. Especially the women aged over 75 complained the back length and the crotch length. 4. The elderly wowed were insterested in sewing condition, size and comfort with ageing even though they considered color and design as the most important attribute in selections clothes.
Fatigue Phenomenon of Mechanical Properties in Denim Fabrics for Slacks during Repeated Shear and Tensile Deformation
Lee, Chang-Mi ; Gwon, O-Gyeong ; Park, Hui-Ung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 6, 1996, Pages 975~982
This study was conducted to examine the fatigue phenomenon of mechanical properites in denim fabrics for slacks during repeated shear and tensile deformation by analysing the change in the basic dynamic properties of fabrics on the basic of experiments to obtain the basic data necessary to measure their fatigue. In addition, this study was carried out by allowing these denim fabrics at market to go through the repeated deformation under such different loads as 500 gf/cm2 and 1000 gf/cm2 by using a simulated fatigue tester, by calculating both dynamic properties and hand value (HV) of these fabrics with KES-F system and then by obtaining the THV through these calculated properties. The results are as follows: 1 The fatigue phenomenon of dynamic properties was remarkably shown by the repeated shear and tensile deformation, while the increase of hysterical plastic substances was also remarkable in these shearing and bending properties. 2. The elasticity values of tensile, bending and compression properties, such as, B and G were reduced: whereas RT and RC values increased. It was shown, then, that those fabrics lost their elasticity and became flexible and soft with the increase of fatigue. 3. The fatigue phenomenon of hand value also showed that those fabrics became soft in relation with the change of all dynamic properties, and that their performance was also change to flexible hand value. 4. TRhe degree of fatigue was also shown by the loads given to the repeated deformation. It was shown that the fatigue was higher for the tensile load of 1000 gf/cm3 than did the standard load of 500 gf/cm3 It is necessary, therefore, to consider the load in accordance with their usage when examining the fatigue phenomenon with respect to the dynamic properties of clothing materials. 5. The loads were nearly not influenced by the change in the general hand value tended to show a little of increase with the increase of fatigue, Based on those results, it seems that the fatigue phenomonon is related to the loads given to the repeated deformation.
Effect of Clothing Habit on Thermoregulation of Body A Comparative Study of Skirt and Slacks
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 6, 1996, Pages 983~991
This study focusses on how the skirt or slacks wearing habit affects the female physiology in her daily life. The healthy female college students have been trained to wear either skirt (group A) or slacks (group B) from late August to early January in order to study the effects of clothing habit on thermoregulatory responses. Also, the themoregulatory responses have been compared the healthy students groups with a physical trained students group (group C) to examine the effects of clothing habit. The changes in body temperatures of students have been studied under the cool environmental condition (15
5% RH, 0.25 m/sec). The results were as follows: 1. Rectal temperature of the group A was 0.4
lower at 36.9
than that of the group B The groups A and B were found identical before the training, while the groups A and C were identical after the training. 2. Mean skin temperature of the group A was 1.2
lower than that of the group B. The groups A and C were identical after the training. 3. The thermal sensation was reflected to be cool by the group A and to be cold by the group B. As for the humidity sensation, the group A felt average, whereas the group B reported between average and slightly humid. In the case of comfort sensation, the group A felt average, while the group B felt between average and slightly uncomfortable. In summary, the 18 weeks of training has provided the skirt group an improved acclimatization to the cold environment . This group also showed an insulative-hypothermic adapta lion in a cold ambient temperature, as was the case for the physical trained group. It is concluded that wearing a skirt for a long period of time can be helpful to human body through gaining of thermoregulatory abilities.
Effect of Polyethylene Glycol Treatment on the Wrinkle Resistance and the Dyeability of Cotton Fabrics
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 6, 1996, Pages 992~1001
The binding of polyethylene glycol (PEG, average molecular weight 600) to cotton fabrics was achieved by using pad-dry-cure process in the presence of citric acid, MgCl3·6H3O, DMDHEU, and TEAHCL. Treated fabrics were dyed with direct, acid, and basic dye. Wrinkle recovery angles, durable press rate, wettability, dyeability and color fastness to washing of all treated cottons were evaluated. The results of this study were as follows: 1. The wrinkle resistance of the PEG treated cottons was increased by increasing PEG and DMDHEU concentration. 2. The wettability of the PEG treated cottons was decreased by increasing PEG and DMDHEU concentration, increased by increasing TEAHCL concentration. 3. PEG/DMDHEU/TEAHCL treated cottons had greater affinity on direct, acid, and basic dye than untreated cottons, and dyeability of the modified cottons was improved compare to untreated fabrics. 4. Color fastness to washing of the PEG/DMDHEU/TEAHCL treated cottons was good except for the wash fastness of the direct dye.
The Influence of Self-image in Clothing Advertising -Theoretical Study-
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 6, 1996, Pages 1002~1015
Self-image is an organized structure of perceptions of one's self and it has a direct influence on values, ideas, goals and objective. And It is generally agreed that consumers engage in buying behavior that is consistent and congruent with their self-image. With this assumptions numerous researches have prove that consumers tends to favor the brand or store image that is congruent to self-image. According to these results we can assume that self-image also can have influence on consumer's information processing, especially in advertising process. Because one of the main factor in forming the brand or store image is advertising. Thus, this study is to propose it's effect of self-image in clothing advertising process. In specifically to find out congruency between self-image and clothing ad image's influence on ad recalling, ad attitude and buying intention. And also it's difference between ideal self and actual self. This study suggested that when there is a congruency between self-image and clothing ad image, consumers have more positive attitude toward the clothing ad and have more intention to buy the products ann also can recall more frequently. Considering the characteristics of clothing goods as a symbolical goods, ideal self-image is more effective than actual self-image.
Prototype Extraction for the Categorization of Lotus and Crane Patterns Using Qualitative and Quantitative Approaches
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 6, 1996, Pages 1016~1026
The purpose of this study was to extract protypes from features and concrete images of Lotus and Crane patterns. A qualitative and a quantitative methods were used. Qualitative informations were obtained from depth Interviews for pattern selection and feature extraction, and quantitative informations from a quail-experiment for pattern caregorization. The subjects were 20 female design students and non-design, students in Teajon. The results were summerized into a similarity metrix which was interpreted by the cluster analysis and the multi-dimensional scling(MDS). The patterns for the study were grouped into 8 clusters. Four dimensions were chosen for the MDS. The location of each pattern was visualized in a 2-dimesional spaces and the location of each cluster in a 3-dimensional spaces. The first dimension, "Lotus" vs "Crane" refired to pattern types, and the second dimension, "realistic" vs "transformable", the transformability. The third dimension, "simple" vs "complex", refired to the degree of simplification, and the forth dimension, "continuous" vs "discontinuous", continuity. The results of the Quantitative analysis could be summerized into 3-level prototype hiararchy In the first level, the patterns were devided clearly into two groups. Lotus and Crane by pattern types. In the second levelk, each group was devided into twosubgroups by continuity. In the third, each subgroup was divided into four subgroups by transformability and the degree of simplification. Four protypes, the final targets of the present study, were extracted from the third level. The are Stylized, Realistic, Decorative, Abstract types.d from the third level. The are Stylized, Realistic, Decorative, Abstract types.
A study of Post-purchase Clothing Evaluative Criteria: The Relationships Among Clothing Satisfaction, Brand Attitudes Repurchase Intention
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 6, 1996, Pages 1027~1038
The decision making procedure of consumer's post purchase is important because post purchase evaluation function is the physiological variables in repurchasing. The previous studies of post-purchase decision making showed that consumer compared the expectation of pre-buying with the performance of the product of post-buying. After consumers evaluates the products, consumer is satisfactory or dissatisfactory with products. And the satisfaction effects repurchase intention. The criteria which consumer didn't consider can be important to consumer after buying. Therefore the research problems are as follows; 1. To reveal the consumer's post-purchase clothing evaluative criterita and to indentify the dimensions of post-purchase clothing evaluative criteria. 2, To examine a causal model of the repurchase intention by post- purchase clothing evaluative criteria, satisfaction and brand attitude, A questionnaire was developed and administered 530 women living in Taejeon, and social daytime wear was selected as a clothing item for the study. Consumer's post-purchase clothing evaluative criteria were composed of six dimensions; Fit, Utility, Management, Transformation, Wearing/sewing, Esthetic factor. The main causal model of repurchase intention is that post-purchase clothing evaluative criteria - satisfaction - brand altitude - repurchase intention. Finally we found that the post-purchase clothing evaluative criteria were important because the repurchase intention depended on post-purchase clothing evaluation, too.
A Study on the Mechanical Properties and Handle of Velvet Fabrics
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 6, 1996, Pages 1039~1047
The purpose of this study is to examine and to evaluate the properties of pile materials to produce velvet fabrics which have excellent handle. In order to perform this purpose, the mechanical properties, hand value (H.V.), total hand value (T.H.V.), total appearance value (T.A.V.) of acetate, cuprammonium rayon, cotton materials for velvet as the typical commercial Pile fabric were measured and analyzed by KES-F system. The important results obtained by this study are as follows. 1 For acetate pile, elogational deformation was easy and bending rigidity of weft was high and elastic recovery was excellent compared with the other materials. 2. Cuprammonium rayon velvet was shown that pile bending rigidity and hysterisis were low. Cotton velvet was shown that compressional energy was high and compressinal elasticity was exellent. 3. In the case that specimens were applied by men's winter suit program, H.V was shown that Koshi of acetate velvet was similar to that of cotton. Numeri of cuprammonium rayon velvet was higher than the others and Fukurami values for all of the three fabrics were similar. 4. But in case that specimens were applied by women's winter suit program Koshi of cuprammonium rayon velvet was lower. But Numeri of that was higher than the others and Fukurami for all of the three fabrics were similar and Sofutosa of cotton velvet was lower than the others. T.H.V. of the acetate velvet was the highest in men's winter suit program while cuprammonium rayon velvet was the highest in women's winter suit program T.A.V. of acetate velvet was highest.
Reaction Behaviour of Artificially Soiled Fabrics for Different Washing Conditions
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 6, 1996, Pages 1048~1061
The most important practical feature that represents the performance of a washing machine is its ability to remove stains or soils from clothes. There are various tests to measure a washing machine's ability to remove stains or soils from clothes. The results of these tests are dependent upon the kind of soiled fabrics used. Moreover, these results may reflect some aspects of the effectiveness of a washing machine in cleaning clothes due to the paritcular compositions of chemicals which comprise soils in soiled fabrics and the particular conditions in which the results are evaluated. After selecting factors presumed to have a major effect on the cleaning ability of a washing machine and choosing most widely used soiled fabrics, we use experimetal statistics methods to screen real factors from them that influence the cleaning ability of a washing machine in a statistically significant manner for each soiled fabric. Using the least number of experimental rules required to extract the necessary information, we then proceed to present the study on the relations between the sets of selected factors and the soiled fabrics. We would then suggest which soiled fabrics is the best for evaluating the performance in cleaning clothes of a washing machine based on the above study,
Classification of Bodytype on Adult Male for the Apparel Sizing System (Part 4) -Bodytype of Lower Part of Trunk from the Photographic Data-
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 6, 1996, Pages 1062~1070
Concept of the comfort and fitness has become a major concern in the basic function of the ready-made clothes. Until now, ready-made clothes were not made by on the basis of the bodytype, but by the body size only. This research was performed to classify and characterize the bodytypes of Korean adult males. Sample size was 1290 subjects and their age range was from 19 to 54 years old. 15 variables from the photographic data of 1112 subjects were applied to analyse the bodytype of th\ulcorner lower part of trunk. Data were analyzed by the multivariate method, especially factor and cluster analysis. The groups forming a cluster can be subdivided into 5 sets by crosstabulation extracted by the hierarchical cluster analysis. 5 bodytypes classified by the photographic sources could be combined with the anthropcmetric data and were demonstrated with 5 silhouette. Type 2 and 3 in the lower part of trunk were dominant and were composed of the majority of 56.8% of the subjects. Bodytypes of Korean males were influenced by the degree of posture erectness and of curvature of the front side of the body in waist and abdomen.
Heat ,rind Moisture Transfer Properties of Fabrics for Korean Folk Clothes
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 6, 1996, Pages 1071~1083
This study was carried out to obtain some fundamental data for designing thermally comfortable Korean folk clothes (KFC) which were classified into 4 groups according to seasons and materials. It was conducted to find the relationship among structural, thermal, and moisture transfer properties, and then the properties of heat and mositure transfer while changing thickness of air layer of selected similar fabrics with various thickness were examined. The summarized results of this study were as follows ; 1. The relationship between the structrual and thermal properties showed high positive correlation with thickness SE thermal insulation value (TIV), porosity & TIV. 2. The relationship between the structural and mositure transfer properties showed high negative correlation with thickness & moisture vapor permeability (Mp), porosity & Mp respectively. 3. The relationship between the heat and moisture transfer properites showed high negative correlation with qmax, air permeability (Ap), Mp & TIV while showed high positive with Ap & Mp respectively. 4. Resistance to dry heat transfer according to thickness of air layer for KFC was increassed rapidly up to 2 mm and above this increasing rate was reduced. Resistance to evaporative heat transfer was remarkable changes in 6∼8 mm but slowly in 6∼8 man. 5. Mioisture permeability index (i) according to thickness of air layer for KFC showed the greatest value at 2 mm but had not difference between groups according to thickness.
Comparison of the Effect of Clothing Materials and the Openness of Garment on the Microclimate of the Skin Simulating System
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 6, 1996, Pages 1084~1095
The purpose of this study was to compare the effect of clothing materials and the opening of the garment on the microclimate of the skin simulating system during the coupled heat and moisture transfer. To determine the effect of size and location of openness of the garment, openness was simulated by removing parts of the spacer ring of the modelling system. To evaluate the changes of humidity and temperature of air layer in the system, buffering indice, Kd and Pr, and efficiency of openness were determined. When the openness was imparted to the system, the transport rate of heat and moisture increased abruptly; at the total openness of 26.4%, which simulated the openness of neck, armhole and waist, Kd increased at least more than three times of the closed system. As the openness increased, the effect of clothing materials decreased gradually to lose its effect at the 60% openness and approached the value of nude. Temperature regulating index showed, however, higher value than nude which was apparently due to the still air layer.
A Study on the Dimensions of Consumers" Attitudes and Brand Images toward Imported Casual Brands
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 6, 1996, Pages 1096~1106
This study was to identify the dimensions of consumers' attitudes toward imported casual brands. Another objectives were to examine consumers' attitude according to the preference group, and to ascertain the imported casual brand images. The 55 Likert type questions were selected through the results of self-questionnaire analyses. 520 females aged between 20 to 29 in Pusan responded to the second questionnaire of consumers' attitudes and brand images toward imported casual brands. The results were as follows: 1. For final factor analysis, 56 selected from 85 questions were subjected to the principal component analyses with orthogonal rotation after extraction of 5 major factors. 2. Five dimensions are brand's uniqueness and good quality, high prestige, incongruity with native emotion and ethnocentrism, conspicuous consumption, and reasonable purchasing advantages. These factors explained 45.0% of total variance. 3. Five dimensions were different according to the degree of preference. For preference group, they purchased the imported casual brands by uniqueness, good quality and reasonable purchasing advantages. For non-preference group, they disliked the imported brands by incongruity with native emotion, ethnocentrism, and conspicuous consumption. 4. Preference group had 5.47, whereas non-preference group had 1.76 pieces of imported casual brands for this 2 years. This result suggests that to develop the domestic brands with international uniqueness, good quality, and high prestige, and to improve according to preference group are necessary.
A Study on Sewing Method for Clothing Construction - The Easing Contraction by Shirring Poot-
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 6, 1996, Pages 1107~1115
An investigation made of the easing contraction ratio according to sewing condition (seam line; wp, wf, 45
bias, stitch density; 13 stitch/cm (0.8 mm), 9 stitch/cm (1.1 mm), 6.5 stitch/ cm (1.5 mm), 5 stitch/cm (2 mm), 4 stitch/cm (2.5 mm), thread; sp 60
s/2, sp 60
s/3, st 60
s/3, st 50
s/3)) by lockstitch industrial sewing machine with shirring foot. The correlations of the easing and sewing conditions were by SPSS PC), and visual test was done by enlarged photo. The results obstained were as follows:. 1. The easing contraction ratio is increased in proportion to the low of stitch density. 2. The easing contraction ratio of wp, 45
bias is correlated with stitch density, and that of wf be with stitch density, elongation & weight. 3. The easing contraction ratio of 13 stitch/cm (0.8 mm), 9 stitch/cm (1.1 mm), 6.5 stitch/ cm (1.5 mm), 5 stitch/cm (2.0 mm) is correlated with flexible rigidity, and that of 4 stitch/ cm (2.5 mm) be with flexible rigidity and crease-resistance. 4. As a results of SPSS PC+ statistics, the easing contraction ratio is statistically correlated to the seam line, stitch density, upper thread tension, and fabric characteristics. 5. As a results of visual test by the enlarged photo, the limit of stitch density for easing contraction was 5 stitch/cm (2.0 mm).
Analysis of Shapes of Bending and Draping by the Model Rule
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 6, 1996, Pages 1116~1124
The factors to presume the shapes of bending and draping were examined in this study, by applying the similar phenomenon and theory of analysis. The findings were as followings: 1. The value of deflection angle (f) of deflection curve were almost consistent with those of K number and the shapes of deflection curve were congruent, under the condition of that the values of EI/w are almost similar and the lengths of samples are consistent. 2. The values of drape area, drape coefficient, mean of deflection angle, and
number were consistently estimated and the shapes of drape were almost the same, under the condition of that the values of EI/w are similar and the diameter of samples are consistent. 3. In using the samples with different values of EI/w, scale factor, kl, was obtained from the formula, the shapes of bending of the referent samples and compsactive smaples was geometrically similar, which the lengths of samples were 1,1'and were satisfied with the formula, hi: L'11, and their
number were also consistent. 4. In applying the samples with different values of Rllw, scale factor (kl) was obtained and then, when semidiameter of samples was adjusted to be satisfied with the formula, k1=L/L, the shapes of draping of referent samples and comparative samples were geometrically similar. Furthermore, their
number was also consistent. 5. The shares of bending and draping could be changed in terms of three factors such as the lengths of samples, bending ridigity, and weigths per unit area.
number was obtained from theory of similar phenomenon, which was index to presume shapes of bending and the shapes of draping getting from the three factors.
A Study on the Variables of Clothing Consumer Behavior and Market: Literature Review
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 6, 1996, Pages 1125~1137
The author reviewed seventy papers on social psychology of clothing and fashion marketing fields, which were published in the Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles between 1983 and 1996. The market variables and consumer behavior variables were focused on. This review showed that the market variables had been divided into three groups of variables: 1) product variables (product image and product classification): 2) brand variables (brand image and brand positioning): and 3) store variables (store image, store type, and distribution system) Consumer behavior variables have been studied on the basis of EBM Consumer Behavior Model: 1) purchasing motivation as need recognition: 2) information using as search information: 3) evaluation criteria and choice criteria as alternative evaluatioin : 4) clothing purchase, brand choice and store choice as purchase: 5) degree of wear, satisfaction and dissatisfaction as outcome: and 6) clothing discard. Variables that influence on consumer behavior, including situation variables, clothing attitude variables, personal . social variables were added to develop a variable model of clothing consumer behavior using the EBM Consumer Behavior Model.
Changes in Mechanical Properties, Hand, and Appearance according to Dyeing of Cotton, PET, Nylon, and Cotton Mixture Fabrics
Jo, Gil-Su ; Lee, Eun-Ju ; Im, Ji-Yeong ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 6, 1996, Pages 1138~1150
This study was carried out to investigate the effects of dyeing on the mechanical properties, primary hand, total hand value (THV), and total appearance value (TAV) of woven fabrics. Cotton, PET, nylon, cotton/PET, and cotton/nylon woven fabrics were used as test specimens. Each of fabric was dyed under the same conditions as the fabrics for sportswear which consumers have selected as best. Mechanical properties of specimens were measured by KES-FB system and primary hand and THV were calculated by equation KN -201-MDY and KN-301-WINTER respectively. TAV was calculated by KN (eq. 10). The results were as follows: 1. In mechanical properties. tensile energy increased when cotton and two cotton mixture fabrics were dyed and decreased when polyester and nylon fabrics were dyed. Bending rigidity and shear rigidity decreased after all fabrics were dyed except nylon and cotton/ nylon mixture fabrics showing higher rigidities. Cotton fabrics showed higher surface roughness while other fabrics did lower values after dyeing. 2. In evaluation of primary hand and total hand , four primary hands of cotton fabrics so decreased after dyeing that THV were lowered. Numeri, Fukurami, and Sofutosa in primary hand of polyester, cotton/polyester, and cotton/nylon fabrics and Koshi and Numeri of nylon fabrics increased after dyeing and therefore THV of four fabrics were improved. 3. Cotton and polyester fabrics showed higher TAV due to their lower bending and shear rigidity, while nylon and cotton/nylon fabrics did lower values due to their higher shear rigidity. 4. It was proposed that the method of dyeing or treatment for minimizing the decrease of THV of cotton fabrics and TAV of nylon fabrics should be developed.
Person-Situation Benefit Segments of the Female Apparel Market in Seoul by a Prior Segmentation Method Benefit Soughts of Clothing, Perceived Risk, Importanc of Store Attribute, Store-Type Choice -
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 6, 1996, Pages 1151~1165
The purpose of this study was to identify the pratical applicability of person-situation benefit segmentations of the female apparel market in Seoul by a prior segmentation method. The specific objectives of this study were 1) to identify the useful demographic variables for person-situation benefit segmentations of the female apparel market, 2) to assess that person- situation benefit segmentations of 1.he female apparel market are accessit)le by developing a profile of each segment based on the interactions of situation and personal characteristics on perceived risk, importance of store attributes and store-type choice, and on brand type prefered by each segment. 3) to assess the validity of person-situation benefit segmentations of the female apparel market in terms of easy accessibility. The data were collected via a questionnaire from 601 housewives of ages 20's to 50's living in Seoul, Korea. The data were analyzed by factor analysis, repeated measure two- way ANOVA and X2-test. The results of this study were as follows. First, the age-by-situation segmention basis and the education-by-situation segmention basis were useful for person-situation benefit segmentations of the female apparel market. Second, there were found three benefit segments (Youth/Fashion oriented users, Brand oriented users and Apathetic users of clothing) using age-by-situation segmention basis. Using education-by-situation segmention basis, five segments (Economic-value, Youth/Fashion,
A Study on Modes of Expression in Fashion illustrations between the 1910s and the 1990s
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 6, 1996, Pages 1166~1177
The purpose of this study was to analyze the change in modes of expression represented in fashion illustrations between the 1910s and the 1990s. 639 fashion illustrations were analyzed by content analysis and by qualitative analysis in five aspects. Typical traits in the modes of expression infashion illustrations in each period were described. The outstanding transformation in modes of expression from "before'70s" to " after'70s" were confirmed. The findings support two hypothesis: that modes of expression in fashion illustrations evolve and that changing modes of expression in fashion illustrations is a reflection of "spirit of the times".uot;spirit of the times".uot;.
The Concept of Fashion Coordination
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 6, 1996, Pages 1178~1192
The purpose of this study is to develop the fashion coordination course. The first step of this study is to set up the concept of fashion coordination. And the second step is to organize the fashion coordination course depending on the concept of fashion coordination. The concept of the fashion coordination is as foltowed: The goal of the fashion coordinapion is 'making the image' The image in this study is constituted of several concepts, which are perception/conition/impression, bojective/person perception, external/internal content, and simple/complex level. The elements of fashion coordination are the person, the clothing and the accessory. The method of making the image with elements is to harmonize the symbolic aspect of elements, and the beauty aspect of elements too. The fashion coordination course is organized into theory part and practice part. The theory part is composed of theories of 'making the image', the elements, the harmony depending on the concept of fashion coordination. The practice part is composed of exercises to make the image depending on the theory, especially the important point of exercise is Listing the clues that make the image.
A Study on the Waist Dart of Front Bodice Pattern according to Body Surace Changes at Arm Movements
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 20, issue 6, 1996, Pages 1193~1202
This study investigates and analyzes the amount and shape of the front waist dart of the bodice and investigates the dart division method by bust size. Measurements at 5 arm positions were taken from 15 subjects. Clothing tests were given to 6 of the subjects. The conclusions were as follows: 1) Front Body surface changes were occurred around armpit and they were caused by the wrinkles of the armpit 2) The curved dart line was more appropriate for use with C cup, the large bust body, than the linear line. The changes of the dart amount at arm movements had different types by bust size. 3) Patterns for A & C cup body were adequate to divide the dart amount by 3 darts such as under the B.P., under the anterior armpit and side line, or to aggregate to 1 dart under the B.P. For the B cup body, however, the suitable pattern to use was the total dart amount divided by 1~2 darts and decreasing the waist line at the side line should be avoided.