Go to the main menu
Skip to content
Go to bottom
REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 21, Issue 8 - Nov 1997
Volume 21, Issue 7 - Oct 1997
Volume 21, Issue 6 - Sep 1997
Volume 21, Issue 5 - Jul 1997
Volume 21, Issue 4 - Jun 1997
Volume 21, Issue 3 - May 1997
Volume 21, Issue 2 - Mar 1997
Volume 21, Issue 1 - Jan 1997
Selecting the target year
A Study on Pattern Using Geometric Interpretation of Stacks Silhouette
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 21, issue 5, 1997, Pages 807~820
This exploratory research was intended to develop and test a slacks pattern based upon conic model. Data came from measurements of photograph of three subjects. Silhouette of slacks was close fit on waist and hip and loose under hip level. This three-dimensional form was modeled with truncated cones. This conic model was truncated by plane of the waist level, the abdomen level, the hip level, the crotch level and the ankle level parallel to the floor. Two models that have differences in back part of the model were tested. Drafted patterns from two models were taken for each subject. Drafted experimental pattern was operated for slacks pattern. The first step was to make sideseam. Parts over crotch level were moved to both sides. And then to make waistdarts. Experimental pattern had two darts each in front and back. Each experimental slacks was evaluated by sensory test to appearance and comfort by five judges. The results can be summarized as follows. 1) Appearance and comfort of experimental pattern were judged to be satisfactory. Especially these patterns were fitted we18 in waist darts front and back. So we evaluated that was proper pattern for slacks. 2) Model 2 was better in appearance than model 1. But Model 1 was more comfortable in non significant difference. This was supposed to be resulted from fit more closely of model 2. 3) considering preceding results, this geometric model based upon truncated cone was applicable for slacks pattern.
A Study on the Artists who Cooperated with Textile Industry - focused on 1900~1925-
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 21, issue 5, 1997, Pages 821~834
The purpose of this study is to clarify the different types of cooperation between the textile industries and the artists at the beginning of the 20th century in relation to the social background which motivated the artists. Therefore, this study tries to analyse the interactions between the cooperation and the movement of social reform of the period and describe the various phase of artistic expression as a result of artists' view point of the society. The results are as follows; 1. There are two different standpoints toward the cooperation. The one conceives the different role of artists in relation to society and the other tries to enlarge the field of expression as an artistic challenge. 2. The different standpoint engenders significant diversity in its development, result and decline. 3. The raise of new artist group "designer" who reconciles the art and the industry as vocation diminishes the need of direct participations of artists. 4. The spirit of the time has changed and emphasised more the conceptual part of the art than the properties of matter. It provides less favorable condition for the cooperation. The cooperation between the art and the industry is a significant resource of the textile and clothing design. The interaction is not limited to visual effect but partakes in the solutions of the common artistic or social problems. problems.
A Study on Sizing System for Elderly Women
Jo, Jin-Suk ; Park, Sang-Hui ; Choe, Jeong-Uk ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 21, issue 5, 1997, Pages 835~844
The purpose of the study was to develop a size chart for elderly women over 60s. In order to investigate the differences in sine and figure, we measured 28 measurements of the 400 samples in Seoul in 1996. The selected measurements were what required to draft a tailored jacket patterns. At the beginning of the study, we surveyed about the difficulties and complaints on clothing of elderly in general with the samples of customers and suppliers for larger sizes. They preferred a jacket when they go out, and most frequently experienced difficulty was not to be able to find a decent clothing of suitable design and fitting size.'chat is why we concentrated the study on the measurements required for jackets. We analyzed the data as follows. 1. As Korean apparel industry use K.S. sizing system, we decided to use the same measurement to categorize the samples, bust and height. 2. We found out the frequency in the sixte chart and suggests the production sixte for over 60s. 3. We suggested some of the distinct figure related characteristics for better fitting.
A Study of Relationship between the Perception of QR Benefits and QR Adoption
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 21, issue 5, 1997, Pages 845~853
A Study on Developing a Child Hospital Gown
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 21, issue 5, 1997, Pages 854~864
This study was initiated to develop a uniform design suitable for child inpatients. The experimental hospital inpatient uniform design was developed based on the results of the prior studies. The panel was composed of 5 experienced nurses and 5 clothing specialists. They evaluated the function of the experimental inpatient uniforms developed in this study. The experimental hospital gown design was reformed based on the panel's evaluation.1'hen the child inpatients performed the wear test for the reformed experimental hospital gown. The results of the study are as follows; 1. The child inpatient hospital gown design of the most hospitals were similar to the adult patient's uniform : the V-neckline shirts with full length set-in sleeves. The bottom was full length pull-on pants. The fabric was white cotton with blue hospital logo and stripe print in most cases. 2. The panel's specialty affected the evaluation of the uniform design. The nurses concerned about the durability after washing and ease for medical treatment. The clothing specialists cared about the features related to the clothing construction and ease for physical movement of body. 3. The most preferred hospital inpatient uniform design by the panels was the shirts or one- piece gown with three-quarter length sleeve and overarm seam opening. 4. The researchers developed one-piece dress gown for the children under two years old. Three different size pajamas were developed for children 2∼5 years old,5∼8 years and 8∼12 years old.
A Study on the Women's Underwear in our country - Based on the trousers -
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 21, issue 5, 1997, Pages 865~879
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles Vol. 21, Nt. 5 (1997) p. 865∼879 The purpose of the study is to identify a historical change about the women's underwear and trousers this nation of ours until an ancient times to modern ages. Because the record of the women's trousers exist scarcely anything, the study refers to several documents, for example, the literatures of the Chinese and the Chosun Dynasty, the Koryu's fresco, the Tou of Shinra, the painting of the rock face, the archaeological dresses and genre pictures, and The folkways methods through the residents is used to collect and to arrange of an enlightened age and modern times. Originally, the women's trousers appeared for the nomadism and the hunting in the northern distric and the northeastern provinces. Male and female, old and young wear the trousers which are the clothes native to Korea. The trousers which are originally narrow trousers are influnced by Chinese wide trousers. The trousers at the time of Samsuk hand down until Korea. The Skirt on the trousers is nothing but a courtesy. But gradually, it is distinguished only the trousers, and then, there are exchanged an underwear which not only the protection angainst the cold but also the beautiful. Therefore, the form of skirt is diminished, and the underwear is simplified as the increasing status and the activity of woman in the age of civilization. In a way, the reform trousers and Three-kingdom era trousers appeared and the Dansogok and Sogok disappeared at present. There are confirmed in my investigation of folk customs.
A Study on Impacts of TV Commercials of Women's Clothes
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 21, issue 5, 1997, Pages 880~888
This study was intended to analyze the perception of consumers towards TV commercials of women's clothes and variables influencing the effectiveness of the commercials. The sample consisted of 408 female students attending Ehwa Woman's university and the survey was conducted after the TV commercials were shown to the sample. Frequency, percentage, F-test, logistic regression were used for analysis. Conclusions of the study are as follows, 1. TV commercials were grouped into three image categories, Individuality, Nobility, and Activity. The commercials of the formal clothes were perceived based on nobility factor while the commercials of the casual clothes were perceived based on individuality factor by subjects. 2. Commercial image and the brand image appeared similar in three image factors. And TV commercials were more effective when two images were perceived similar. 3. The expenditures on TV commercial influenced the awareness of commercials, therefore frequent commercial drew more awareness. 4. The models on the commercials were more effective when the image of the commercials and the image of the models were perceived similar by subjects.
The Change of Clothing Expenditures and its Determinants in Bores: A Time-series Analysis (Part I)
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 21, issue 5, 1997, Pages 889~902
During the past three decades, there have been drastic changes in many fields in Korea. Social and economic changes which occurred meantime have influenced clothing expenditures of Korean consumers. The purpose of this study was to investigate the change of clothing expenditures and its determinants in Korea during the period of 1965 to 1993. In particular, the impacts of income and price on clothing expenditures were examined using data from the National Acccounts published by the Bank of Korea as well as Urban Household Economy Survey published by the Bureau of National Statistics. Per-person consumption expenditures for clothing and shoes (CSX) in permanent price generally increased in accordance with the increase of income since 1965. From 1978 to 1984, however, there was a slight decrease in clothing expenditures in spite of the continuous increase in income, due to the depression of national economy. The proportion of CSX in total consumer spendings has decreased continuously since 1978. In recent years, CSX take only 5% of national aggregate consumption expenditures, while consumption expenditures of urban consumers is 8%. The expenditures for traditional clothing and fabrics for home- sewing decreased most. The results of this study should provide a broader view of the pattern of clothing consumption by Korean consumers. Moreover, the findings can suggest how social and economic changes of a society affect consumers' clothing expenditures.
UVB Photosynthesis of Vit. D3 and Fabrics (Part I) -in vitro-
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 21, issue 5, 1997, Pages 903~910
Vit. D3 was measured which was produced by UVB irradiation to provit. D3, 7-d ehyd rock o 1 cst or of (7-DH Cl Measuring the amount of vie. D3 when it was irradiated to the fabrics which had different UV8 transmittance, production of vile. Ds by UVB(Ultraviolet B) and inhibition from formation of vile. D3 by fabrics were absorbed and followings are the results. As the amount of irradiated compared UVB increased, the amount of the production of vile. D3 produced by UVB irradiation from 7-DHC was increased. After treatment of 7-DHC by UVB irradiation and incubated respectively for 24hr, 48hr and 72hr at 36.5
The amount of lit. D3 was increased as incubating time passed. When irradiated UVB on 7-DHC, intermediate of vile. D3, lumisterol, tachysterol and previt. D were showed and those materials were seemed to be changed to vile. D3 as incubation time passed. The amount of vile. D3 which was produced by irradiation 7-DHC showed close relation with UVB transmittance rate of summer fabrics (r= 0.987). Clothes, hats, and sun screen cream reduce the amount of vile. D3 Produced naturally in human skin and it result the decrease of calcium in blood which is absorbed through vit. D. Those all can cause or worsen osteomalacia especially to women and the aged people. Therefore, it is necessary to research and to develop function oriented clothing which can transmit UV which produce vile. D3 at the same time which can protect toxical UVB.
The Study on Natural Dyeing with Artemisia
Im, Myeong-Eun ; Yu, Hye-Ja ; Lee, Hye-Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 21, issue 5, 1997, Pages 911~921
Recently the interest in natural dyeing has been increased because of the color clarity, natural grace and reactionism in fashion. Indigo dyeing, safflower dyeing and Gal-ott in Cheju-Do become generally known, so the study about the natural dyeing is continued with national intrust and support. In this study, 1 used artemisia for various dyeing tests because we can get it easily. 1 tested the dyeability in wool as well as cotton and silk with wormwood in natural dyeing material. I also dyed nylon with the same material for the comparison of the molecular structure. The mercerization and the chitosan treatment were done in cotton to improve the low dyeability in the natural dyeing. The result of this study are as follows; We have to dye repeatedly to get deep color in natural dyeing, and mordant treatment brought good result in color difference and dyeing fastness. 1. Compared with silk, wool and nylon, the dyeability of cotton was the worse. The color difference of cotton was 18.81 without mordants , and 24.05 with mordant. The dyeability of cotton was much increased by mordants such as potassiumdichromate, copper sulfate, iron sulfate and salt water. The color of cotton was turned into yellow-green in potassium dichromate and yellow-green with deep green in copper sulfate. The mercerization and the chitosan treatment of cotton made the improvement in color, dyeability, laundering fastness, abrasion fastness. 2. The color difference of silk was 3 times as high as cotton. It showed the similar degree with the chitosan treated-cotton. That is to say, silk had good dyeability because it contains amino group and carboxyl group. The dyebility of silk was increased by a mordant such as iron sulfate, potassium dichromate and salt water, Drycleaning fastness showed 5 grade, abrasion-fastness was high over 4~5 grade and sunlight fastness showed 1 grade in all case. 3. The color difference of wool was the best among four fabrics because of 18 kinds of amino acids. It is considered that the sulfate of wool has the polarity and help metal- mordants get the better dyeability such as potassium dichromate, iron sulfate, copper sulfate, and aluminum chloride. The color was reddish-green in potassium dichromate, yellow.greenin iron sulfate and copper sulfate, and yellow in the rest mordants. Drycleaning fastness of wool showed over 4~5 grade, abrasion fastness 5 grade. Sunlight-fastness 1 grade. 4. The dyeability of nylon was almost same because of the similar molecular structure with silk. The clarity of color was poor. The color was yellow-green in copper sulfate and yellow in the rest mordants. Laundering fastness and abrasion-fastness of nylon was good. Sunlight- fastness represented 1 grade.
An Influence of Residual Metals on Yellowing of Indigo Dyed Bluejean after Stonewashing
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 21, issue 5, 1997, Pages 922~932
Blue jeans are finished with stonewashing process to give it optimal softness and color contrast of blue and white. So, Yellowing may well be generated during storage or use and thereby, their appearance may be damaged much. So, this study was aimed at finding the solutions to reduce the yellowing problem caused by residual metals after stonewshing. To this end, sample blue jeans were made to be finished with various methods of wet-treatment and then, be subject to daylight to check their photoyellowing. The results of this test can be summarized as follows; Since the stonewashing process was found to affect the yellowing, the residual metals of stone- washed blue jeans was analyzed. And it was found that it contained such residual metal as Al, Ca, Cu, Ti, Si, K and Zn. In particular, it was conceived that Al was a prime cause affecting the yellowing. Meanwhile, when the blue jeans were treated by the metal ionchelating agent of EDTA-2Na, the residual levels of Al and Ti were reduced by about 50%, while the photoyellolving was lowered by 75%, which is suggesed that EDTA is very effective in preventing the yellowing. On the other hand, when the blue jeans were bleached by the hypochlorite, chlorine remained in blue jean accelerated the yellowing. However, when this blue jean was treated again by the sodium thiosulfate for its dechloridization, the residual of chlorine was reduced, and the yellowing was lowered by about 43%.
Evaluation of Types of Female Workers' Uniforms - Appropriate, Functional, and/or Power Look -
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 21, issue 5, 1997, Pages 933~945
The purpose of the study was to investigate types of uniforms which were considered as appropriate, functional, and/or power look. Also, the possibility of acceptance of a pantsuit for uniforms was examined. For the study, a questionnaire was developed by the researcher. The subjects were asked to select appropriate, function Al, or power look among combinations of: 1) two types of jackets with different shoulder width (natural, wide) and two types bottoms(pants, skirt) : 2) blouses with three different collars (ribbon, convertible, tailored) and two types of bottoms (pants, skirt) . The majority (89%) of subjects were 185 male and 182 female white-collar workers. For the ststistical analysis, Chi-square, one-way ANOVA, and t-test were used. The results of the study were: 1) For a uniform, a skirted suit was considered as being appropriate and powerful, and pants were regarded as being functional. 2) A jacket with natural shoulders was viewed as an appropriate and functional uniform, and a jacket with wide shoulders as power look. 3) A blouse with a convertible collar was regarded as an appropriate and functioal uniform, and a tailored collared-blouse evaluated as power look.
The Aesthetic Values of the Korean Traditional Costume
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 21, issue 5, 1997, Pages 946~955
The purpose of this study is to present the aesthetic values of the Korean traditional costume for developing 'Korean' fashion design can be accepted in general in the modern times. For this purpose, documentary studies about the aesthetic values of the Korean traditional art and Korean traditional costume were preceded. And the perception of the Korean traditional costume were studied according to Belong's two criteria, body priority/ clothes priority and open/closed. Next, the aesthetic values of the Korean traditional costume were re-defined. The results can be summarized as follows; 1) The aesthetic values of the Korean traditional art are the beauty of nature, the purity, and the pleasantry. As the beauty of nature is the important one, the purity is caused by the love of nature. The pleasantry is as a way of expression. 2) The aesthetic values of the Korean traditional costume through the documentary studies stand for as the beauty of nature, the purity, the beauty of evil's eye, the beauty of symbolism, the beauty of personality, the beauty of tragedy and the beauty of tradition. 3) Korean traditional costume are perceived as clothes priority and open. 4) The aesthetic values of the Korean traditional costume can be re-defined as the beauty of nature, the purity, and the pleasantry. The beauty of nature comes from the 'natural' look, the exposure of the fabric as itself and the organic lines of the Korean traditional costume. The purity comes from the geometrical squared clothing form of Korean traditional costume which doesn't revive the human body form. The Pleasantry is seen the colors and motifs of costumes that have the human's hope and incantation and the exaggeration and distortion of human body form.