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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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Volume & Issues
Volume 21, Issue 8 - Nov 1997
Volume 21, Issue 7 - Oct 1997
Volume 21, Issue 6 - Sep 1997
Volume 21, Issue 5 - Jul 1997
Volume 21, Issue 4 - Jun 1997
Volume 21, Issue 3 - May 1997
Volume 21, Issue 2 - Mar 1997
Volume 21, Issue 1 - Jan 1997
Selecting the target year
Deconstruction' From The Outside Expressed In the Contemporary Costume (Part I) -From 1980's to 1990's-
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 21, issue 8, 1997, Pages 1261~1274
Contemporary costume by the 'Deconstruction' from the outside has shown disclosure, destruction, poverty and analysis. The conclusion of this thesis as follows, 1. The Deconstruction of disclosure by infra disclosed the underwear and inner structure outside, which has deconstructed a fixed idea i.e.'underwear must be in outwear', modesty versus immodesty and disclosure versus concealment. 2. The Deconstruction of destruction originated in punk look has rejected traditional manners and utility, at the same time, it has shown the ambivalence i.e. completeness versus incompleteness, making versus destructing by slashes, rips, fringes. 3. The Deconstruction of poverty has appeared as French avangarde mode, little black dress by Chanel, second hand style by hippy, blue jean, granny look, especially Rei Kawakubo's poor look influenced by Zen Aesthetics and post punk. It has looked like old and worn out dress by doing patchwork, dye, decolor, rip, fray, which has shown the decentring by concealing the body than disclosing, rejecting snobbery. 4. The Deconstruction of analysis, seemingly partial and patched is a violation only of our expectation of clothing's unbroken entity though it has looked like a fragment. The completeness and coherence of it is made more evident by its breach, void, and bond like a poetic language. As the result, disclosed, destructed, poor, and analytical costumes has expressed as an escape from the appearance which traditional aesthetic concept had pursued.
A Study on Ease of Skirt
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 21, issue 8, 1997, Pages 1275~1286
The purpose of this study is to investigate how the shape of the lower body influences an individuals' ease in fitting skirts. Subjects in this study consisted of 188 adult females categorized into two groups(the first group were subjects 18∼33 years of age and the second group 34∼59 years of age), whose measurements were taken and then compared between the two groups. The subjects were also categorized into 5 different lower body types. The following are the results; (1) The comparative analysis of the ease from the two a9e groups showed a bigger value of waist girth in the young age group. And thereverse results were found when measuring hip firth. (2) The correlation analysis between the ease and the anthropometric data showed a weak statistical correlation in the older group, and showed no statistical correlation in the younger group. However, there was correlation between the ease and the body measurements as well as between the differences of waist girth and hip girth. (3) The most appropriate average ease of skirt in the young age group was 1.03 cm for waist and 5.71 cm for hip; the most appropriate average ease of skirt in the older age group was -0.76 cm at the waist and 4.10 cm at the hip. (4) Analysis of variance with a special emphasis on the ease of waist girth and hip girth according to the anthropometric data of the lower body revealed a statistically significant correlation.
A Study on illusion of Clothing Design Factors Variation Effecting Perception of Face
Lee, Mi-Jeong ; Kim, Jun-Beom ; Lee, In-Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 21, issue 8, 1997, Pages 1287~1296
The purpose of the study is to make experimental whether three-dimensional body (especially face) has illusion based on theoretical background of form dimensions and color bright among precedent multi-form illusion, using the function of computer simulation. To investigate illusion that factors of clothing design(line, color, material) effect face, as the following is tried to solve giving change to neckline, collar, scarf which is believed to influence near face. How to make experiment as follows watching in order 13 scenes of a pair of with basic design and experiment design. Then the data were subjected to analysis of variance and Duncan's multiple range test. The result of this studying as follows, 1. Face looks larger in complex neckline than simple neckline. The larger collar is the larger face looks. 2. In white jacket, illusion(the lower luminosity of scarf color gets, the brighter face brightness gets) is shown. In black jacket, also illusion(the higher luminosity of scarf color gets, the darker face brightness gets) is shown. 3. In experiment on hardness and softness of face impression according to the material of collar, collar of knit and fur gives us assimilation illusion bring softer impression of face.
A Study on the Visual Evaluation about Combination of Contrary Clothing Image
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 21, issue 8, 1997, Pages 1297~1306
The purpose of this study was to investigate the difference of visual evaluation about combination of contrary clothing image, Elegance-Casual, Ethnic-Modern. The data were collected using 23 semantic differential hi-polar scale questionnaires from 50 female students majoring in clothing and textile and analyzed by Factor analysis, ANOVA, Discriminant analysis and MDS. The results obtained were summarized as follows; 1. As a result of factor analysis, 4 factors -Attractiveness, Casualness, Moderateness, Modernness-were found out as constructing factors of contrary clothing image. 2. For the visual evaluation of contrary clothing image combined with top and bottom, there were significant differences in all factors. 3. As a result of discriminant analysis, discrimination among images was more closely related to renovated image by combination of contrary clothing image. 4. As a result of MDS, evaluative dimensions of contrary clothing image were identified, and relationship between clothing images and special qualities of design was shown on positioning map.
Consumers's Distrust for Discounting Claims and Purchase Intention for Apparel Products
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 21, issue 8, 1997, Pages 1307~1314
This study investigated the factors that influence consumers' distrust and consumers purchase intention for discounting, specifically discounting of clothes. Through literature, discounting rate, retailer type and brand reputation were identified as influencing factors and were tested. A 2
3 factorial design was used to test the effect of each factor on consumers' distrust and consumers' purchase intention for jean products. Retailer type was manipulated as high and low, brand reputation as well-known and less-known, and discount rates 10, 30 and 60%. An convenience sample of 165 female undergraduate students participated in the study. The data were analyzed using SPSS/PC+ The results showed that consumers did distrust discounting claims and consumers' distrust of the claims was greater for less-known brand. In addition, no significant effect of retailor type was found. Further effort is needed to generalize the result to different product categories.
Mechanical Properties and Fabric Handle of kansan Bamie (Part I)
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 21, issue 8, 1997, Pages 1315~1322
Ramie is one of the traditional fabrics in Korea, and very comfortable fabric for summer clothes because it has a high moisture-absorbing and transporting property. Futhermore ramie is very popular and Koreans prefer its handle for summer clothes. The kansan ramie has better quality as fibers and can be weaved as fine fabrics which are famous as kansan Fine ramie. Even though the good quality of kansan ramie has known widely, very few research work have been carried out on kansan ramie in the field of textile science. In this study, the analysis of the physical and chemical characteristics of Hansan ramie was conducted by using two different kinds of Hansan ramie: Hansan Fine ramie and kansan Coarse ramie. In addition, the same experiment was held on the one kind of chinese ramie to be compared with those of Hansan ramie. The following results were obtained from this experimental study. By the analysis of chemical composition of ramie, the similar chemical composition (a -cellulose: 83∼85%, pectin substances: 2.81∼ 3.01%) were found from all of the ramie fabrics used in this study. It has shown that Hansan coarse ramie has the highest toughness value and wrinkle recovery angle among the samples used in this study. From the result of KES-F system, it was found that Hansan Coarse ramie which is composed with the thicker yarns has the highest value on the bending properties, 2HG and surface properties. The primary hand value was also calculated by KN-203 LDY and value of Koshi was shown as the order of kansan coarse ramie> Chinese ramie> kansan fine ramie, and Hansan fine ramie had shown the highest Numeri and Fukurami value among the 3 samples used in this study.
Consumer Information Processing and Evaluation in Clothing Purchase Decision Making
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 21, issue 8, 1997, Pages 1323~1333
The objectives of this study were to identify 1) the steps of information processing and evaluation in clothing purchase decision making, 2) evaluative criteria and determinant attributes at each step, 3) decision making rule, and 4) the effect of clothing involvement on information processing and evaluation. The data were obtained 71 female adults using questionnaire, observation and protocol in real shopping behavior. Consumer's information processing and evaluation was a circulated process composed of multi-steps. Consumer considered aesthetic and intrinsic evaluative criteria to be important and used compensatory and noncompensatory rule together at each decision making step. Clothing involvement had an partial effect on information processing and evaluation.
Korean Adolescents' Clothing Behavior as Related to Self-Consciousness and Weight Control Practices
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 21, issue 8, 1997, Pages 1334~1345
The purpose of this study were 1) to identify the effects of age and sex of Korean adolescents on the psychological variables(body attitudes, public/private self-consciousness, self-esteem), weight control practices, and clothing behaviors, and 2) to identify the relation- ships between psychological variables and weight control practices, and the effects of the variables on clothing behaviors in the adolescent' groups classified by sex and age. The results of this study were as follows: 1) Two factors of body attitudes were identified: Body-shape consciousness and Physical attractiveness. Four factors of clothing attitudes were identified: Clothing interest/dressing for others, Clothing exhibition, Dressing for self, and Psychological clothing-dependerlce. 2) There were significant effects of sex on all of the research variables. Age was found to have effects on Physical attractiveness, self-esteem, public/private self-consciousness, Clothing exhibition, and Psychological clothing- dependence. 3) In the relationships between psychological variables and weight control practices, Body-shape consciousness was negatively correlated with Physical attractiveness in all groups. Also, Body-shape consciousness had effects on weight control practice in all subject groups. 4) Public self-consciousness had direct/indirect effects on the Clothing interest/dressing for others in all subject groups. Private self-consciousness had direct/ indirect effects on dressing for self in high school boys and girls. Body-shape consciousness had indirect effects on Preference for up-to date style in male college students group, whereas weight control practices had effects on the Preference for up-to date style in female college students group. Self-esteem was found to have the effects on clothing behavior in college students groups. Among clothing attitude factors, Clothing exhibition had distinct effects on the Preference for up-to date style in all subject groups, and Clothing interest/dressing for others had effects on Clothing exhibition and Psychological clothing-dependence in high school boys and girs.
The Properties of Commercial Polyurethane Coated Fabrics
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 21, issue 8, 1997, Pages 1346~1352
The purpose of this study was to help the consumer as well as the producer by investigating the properties such as tensile strength, extention, tear strength, wrinkle recovery, drapability, bending property, moisture regain, and shrinkage on commercial polyurethane coated fabrics. Seven commercial polyurethane coated fabrics having various base fabrics were used. The performance properties of base fabrics and polyurethane coated fabrics were measured. The relationships between base fabrics and polyurethane coated fabrics on the performance properties were identified. It was concluded that the properties of polyurethane coated fabric mainly depend on the characteristics of base fabric. Therefore the proper use of base fabric is recommended in order to improve the performance of polyurethane coated fabric.
A Study on the Aesthetic Values of Medieval Look Focus on Asceticism, Naturalism, Mysticism and Secularism
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 21, issue 8, 1997, Pages 1353~1364
The purpose of this study is to present a theoretical framework for analysis and interpretation of medieval look in fashion by investigating its aesthetic values. Accordingly, it would provide a better understanding of the medieval culture with its composite aspects. Modernism sought to make the Middle Ages in its own image.'New Medievalism' has on the whole tried to avoid reading the Middle Ages onto the modern world. Instead it designates a predisposition about the discipline of medieval studies broadly conceived. Consequently, it has changed the viewpoint of medieval culture from the one-sided angle into the diversified one. As recent studies based on New Medievalism have argued, a close look at the medieval culture revealed the dualistic nature of it, with contradictory aspects such as piety and secularity, ideality and formality coexisting. The characteristics of the medieval culture are categorized to asceticism, naturalism, mysticism and secularism. Asceticism, which is responsible for the melancholic and heavy atmosphere of the medieval culture, is related to christianity and despair of life. It is expressed in medieval dress in forms of body-concealing semi-fitted silhouette, coarse texture and dark color. As a reaction to the extreme splendor and exposure of recent fashion, the ascetic medieval look is attracting attention. The monastic look is characterized by body-concealing silhouettes and minimalized usage of colors and details. Naturalism is the feature seeking for purity of the nature and the human itself. It appears in terms of line as a smooth curve flowing along the body contours, or as a revival style of the Greco-Roman drapery in the medieval dress. Naturalism in the medieval look of the late 20th century fashion is expressed as a pure image with the use of sheer and soft fabric to form a smooth curve flowing along the body contours. Mysticism symbolizes the authority of the Christ and the glory of heaven. It is presented in the medieval dress of the body-concealing straight silhouette made of gorgeous fabrics, brilliant colors and decorations by gems and gold. The insecurity caused by the fin-de-siecle mood is creating a strong interest in religion and it is reflected in fashion as a medieval look reviving the solemn and magnificent style of the medieval dress. Secularism is a reflection of the medieval mind of indulging in the beauty of the mundane world. Heraldry and excessive decorations of the medieval dress are forms of this secularism. These styles of gorgeousness are being refined into a new medieval look of the 1990's. The medieval look of the modern fashion is featured in various styles, reflecting the pluralism of the postmodern society.
A Study on the Evaluation of Jacket Pattern for Working Women
Lee, Yeong-Hui ; Kim, Hye-Gyeong ; Seo, Chu-Yeon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 21, issue 8, 1997, Pages 1365~1375
Jacket is the basic formal dress for working women, and one of the most frequently worn by them. It has, however, some problems caused by movement, depending on how well it fits. To improve fitness of jacket, this study compared and evaluated the state of fitness objectively by employing a numerical system in relation with clothing and body. We made three experimental jackets based on the previous jacket patterns and used Moire Photo-graphy to measure the amounts of space between clothes and body from the overlap cross section map. The results obtained from this study were summarized as follows; 1. According to the measurement result of the pattern by using the One-dimension measurement, the amount of ease in girth item for pattern B was larger than the other two patterns. The amounts of space of each part showed the difference of the positions of princess lines, and the different sizes of the darts. 2. From the result of Moire Photography, the wearing shapes of the experimental jackets were influenced by the characteristics of somatotype. In addition, we could analyze the differences of the patterns with Moire Photography. 3. The amounts of space for waist part was larger than those for other parts. Pattern B scored the largest amount of space for all parts compared with pattern A and C. 4. For only waist part, there existed a significant difference in the average amount of space for the three patterns.
Visual Effects of Design Variations in Tailored Jackets Length of Collar, Number of Buttons and Single/Double Variation
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 21, issue 8, 1997, Pages 1376~1386
The purpose of this study is to investigate how one's visual evaluations are affected by variations in internal designs of tailored jackets. Major findings are: 1. Of the 35 pairs of adjectives, the factor analysis singled out the following five major factors (total variance of 55.62%): elegance, maturity, neatness, hard/softness, and evaluation. 2. The image of tailored jackets were found to be significantly affected by the length of its collar: jackets with long collar were perceived elegant, graceful, neat, mature and slim. 3. The number of buttons was also found to have significant impact on the image of tailored jackets: A one-button jacket, single or double, was perceived graceful, mature, formal, neat, natural, brisk, slim and so on. Its image deteriorated as the number of buttons increased. 4. Single jackets were found to be significantly different from Double jacket in their images. The former were perceived elegant, neat, and natural.
Assessment of clothing ventilation by a trace gas method
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 21, issue 8, 1997, Pages 1387~1395
Effects of the ambient air temperature and the opening position on the pattern of the clothing ventilation of a thermal manikin wearing an impermeable blouse were investigated by the trace gas method. Under an isothermal condition, the ventilation was governed by diffusion, and the ventilation rate through the wrist-openings was greatly affected by the distance from the openings. Under non-isothermal conditions, however, the ventilation was accelerated by the convection driven by the temperature gradient between the clothing microclimate and the surrounding air; the greater the temperature gradient, the greater the ventilation. Even though it was certainly affected by the ambient air temperature, the ventilation rate was more significantly influenced by the position of openings. The ventilation patterns at the arm and the body were distinctive.
Country-of-Origin Effects on Imported Clothing Brands
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 21, issue 8, 1997, Pages 1396~1405
This study investigated country-of-origin effects by comparatively analyzing consumer attitude toward country-of-origin of imported apparel according to apparel product attributes. Fishbein attitude model was used. The effects of consumer characteristics such as attitude of consumers toward general imported apparel and demorgraphic variables on consumer attitude toward country-of-origin were also identified. Italy, U.S.A, Japan, Hong Kong, Korea were used as country of origin. Data were obtained from male and female subjects(total 570) aged mostly 20's. Statistical analysis showed: 1) Apparel product attributes were classified into 3 factors, expressive, instrumental and brand, which are the order of importance for purchasing. 2) Consumer indicated more favorable attitude toward 'made in 'Italy' nd made in 'Korea' in each attribute factor. 'Made in Korea' roducts were evaluated highest in expressive attribute factor but less favored than 'made in Italy' n brand attribute factor. 'Made in U.S.A and made in Japan' were evaluated favorable in instrumental factor, whereas 'made in Hong Kong' had the least favorable attitude in every attribute factor. 3) The uniqueness and good quality of imported apparel appeared to be the most strong variable in predicting consumer attitude toward each country-of-origin. 4) The attitude toward country of origin was different according to sex and age.
A Survey on the Pattern of Consumption and Utilization of Clothes
Seo, Yeong-Suk ; Gu, Eun-Yeong ; Jo, Pil-Gyo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 21, issue 8, 1997, Pages 1406~1416
The purpose of this study is to find out an efficient way to utilize clothes. It will be pro- environmental effort besides enhancing clothing life. The study is based on a survey of daily clothing practices. Questionnaire is distributed to female college students who are majoring clothing, textiles, and/or home economics and their parents (n=254). ANOVA, Scheffe test, 1-test and regression are pursued respectively. The main results are as follows: 1. Students, mothers and fathers possess 50.3, 49.9, 45.4 unit clothes, respectively. Mothers possess more formal suits while students possess more casual clothes than the others. The possession pattern is affected by socio-economic variables such as income and purchasing price. 2. In the unused rate of clothes, students'(10.2%) and mothers'(9.7%) rate are significantly higher than that of fathers (6.9%). The unused rate and using efficiency of clothes are affected by socio-economic variables: income and age for unused rate; age and purchasing price for using efficiency. 3. The most important reason for unused clothes is found to be design and color of the clothes. Long years of possessing and change of fashion are the next important reasons. 4. Most of respondents are highly conscious of recycling their clothes. Most of them are willing to donate their clothes to others, re·use or exchange them with the others.
The Relationships of Body-Cathexis to Self-Esteem and Satisfaction with Beady-To-Wear of Elderly Men and Women
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 21, issue 8, 1997, Pages 1417~1426
Relationship between Fashion Design Form and Art Plastique - Focused on Pop Art in 1960's -
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 21, issue 8, 1997, Pages 1427~1438
The art plastique is the part from which designers draw their inspirations to create fashion design. Many designers look for their inspirations from Art Plastique. Since the early 20th century, lots of designers led by Paul Poiret drew their inspirations from Art and co-works with artists. The direct involvement of those artists helped to position Fashion to be an art. Also, these co-works brought the mass media's attention and commercial profit. The most prevalent relationship between the fashion design and art plastique is the reproduction of art such as the 1960s 'Pop Art printed on T-shirts, which can be seen easily todays. After World War ll, art was popularized in a new society where young generation played a major role. Pop Art having image of the freedom and the rejection of tradition was considered as the major trend of 1960s. This study considers reflection of anti-traditionalism, anti-elitism and popularity as the kitsch of Pop. That is the attraction which youth culture looked for from Pop Art and the reason that 60's avast-garde cloth could position itself into the masses. Therefore, this study examines the influence of the kitsch of Pop and the expression of parody upon the major changes in 1960s fashion from which are the mini-look and women's trousers wearing. This study examines Andra Courreges who led 1960s Mini look and Yves Saint Laurent who introduced Pop dress, Smoking look and transparent blouse to find the way which makes it possible for avant garde fashion to have a close relationship with the public and to position itself to be a art.