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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 22, Issue 8 - Nov 1998
Volume 22, Issue 7 - Sep 1998
Volume 22, Issue 6 - Aug 1998
Volume 22, Issue 5 - Jul 1998
Volume 22, Issue 4 - May 1998
Volume 22, Issue 3 - Mar 1998
Volume 22, Issue 2 - Feb 1998
Volume 22, Issue 1 - Jan 1998
Selecting the target year
Deconstruction'From The Inside Expressed In the Contemporary Costume(Part ll) - From 1980's to 1990's-
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 22, issue 1, 1998, Pages 3~17
The aim of this thesis is to clarify the application of Derrida's 'Deconstruction' theory on the contemporary costume. Derrida's theory of 'Deconstruction' took into the 'decentring' concept which deconstructed the subjects i.e., Occidentalism, Elitecentrism, logocentrism, mancentrism etc.; it deconstructed the dichotomy that had been expressed in the traditional occidental metaphysics, by raising the isolated ones such as the Orient, sub-culture, ir- rationality, madness, woman etc. Summarizing the conclusion of this thesis as follows, 1. The impact of 'Deconstruction' from the inside is to be seen in the principles of intertextuality of the costume, therefore it has shown the bisexual costume by interacting gender, and the costume by mixing time, place and occasion. 2.
deft phenomena which shows the concept of escape from the center were presented as decentring, dislocation, discomposition, disorder. 3. Undecidability principle resulted in the undecidable presentation in the wearing styles such as wearing, unwearing, layering. Contemporary costume by the 'Deconstruction' from the inside regards costume as a dynamic text, which has attempted the interaction with the other genres. It deconstructed the teleology of the costume function, and it accepts all the various aesthetic principles.
A Study on Moving Function in Relation to the Length and Silhouette of Tight Skirt
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 22, issue 1, 1998, Pages 18~28
The objective of the study was to observe the difference of moving function of lower-limb in relation to the length 8t silouutte of tight skirt. Four types of tight skirts (2 lengths
2 silhouettes) were made for the experiment. The surface E.M.S in four different locations of leg muscles (Rectos femoris, Semitendinosus, Tibalis anterior, Gastrocnemius) were recorded. The sensory test to decide how to be fatigued after longtime wearing of skirt were examined two times per a day. The fatigue sensory test was scored a Likert-type scale (1= no fatigue, 5=heavy fatigue). Data were analyzed by the repeated ANOVA ann Duncan's multiple range test with use of SAS Package. The main results of this study were as follows: 1. As a result of analysis of E.M.S., in case of walking on the floor there was significant difference in the moving function according to length of skirt and in case of stepping there was significant differnce in three ways (length silhouette, length, silhouette). 2. From the record of walking the step-length, stride-length, step-width were found affected by garments, but foot-angle was not affected. The moving function of slim type was lower than that of semi type and that of ankle-length skirt was lower than that of knee-length skirt. 3. The results of the sensory test agreed with that of E.M.G and Footprints.
A Study on the Positioning Strategy of the Fashion Underwear Market
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 22, issue 1, 1998, Pages 29~40
This study is to develope positioning strategy of fashion underwear market through the perceptual map which can analyze the psychological positioning of the existing fashion underwear brand. A positive study has been made on 176 women in their teens and twenties who live in the Seoul area through questionaire. The collected data was analyzed with Multidimensional Scaling Method, Conjoint Analysis and Cluster Analysis and so on. The results of analyzing the competitive relationships for attributes and the ideal points are as follows: The consumers groups are divided into three market segments on the basis of the ideal points about fashion underwear attributes.
evaluated excellent in design and color, brand and function attributes, and also appealed well to the segment market 2.
has good positioning at the fashion underwear market, and as well as the possibility of growth.
appealed well in segment market 1 which highly valued the material and price attributes and
in this market.
has possibilitiy to be appealed in segment market 3. Finally, it is necessary for each fashion underwear company to analyze and develope the segment market 3. Each company has to develope the brand that can appeal in the segment market 3 in which function was highly valued, and has better to make strategies that develope more functional products like sports underwear, bodysuit and bodywear and so on.
A Study on Easing Contraction made by different angles About angles on the sleeve cap curve line
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 22, issue 1, 1998, Pages 41~48
An investigation made of the easing contraction ratio according to sewing conditions (eased seam angle; 0
, stitch density; 38 stitches/3 cm(N1.0), 26 stitches/ 3 cm(N1.5), 19 stitches/3 cm(N2.0), 14 stitches/3 cm(N2.5), 12 stitches/3 cm(N3.0), thread; sp 60' s/2) by lockstitch industrial sewing machine with shirring foot. The results abstained were as follows: 1. The lower the stitch density , the higher the easing contraction ratio. 2. The easing contraction ratio at 0
were lower than bias angles (20
). 3. As the results of visual test, the maximum easing conditions were Fl -0
-12 stitches/3 cm(N3.0), 60
-14 stitches/3 cm(N2.5), F2 -0
-19 stitches/ 3 cm(N2.0), 45
-14 stitches/3 cm(N2.5), and F3 -0
-19 stitches/3 cm (N2.0). 4. Approximately easing contraction ratio was obtained as 2.0% (N1.0)~ 10.2% (N3.0) in F1, 6.7% (N1.0)~ 15.7% (N2.0) in F2, and 5.2% (N1.0)~ 12.1% (N2.0) in F3, according to different angles on the sleeve cap curve line. 5. As a resets of SPSS PC) statistics analysis, it confirmed the relations which were observed between easing contration ratio and stitch density, and easing contraction ratio was correlated with bending properties.
Design Characteristics of Mariano Fortuny's Works
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 22, issue 1, 1998, Pages 49~60
This study found through that Fortuny's art world with design aesthetics was devided into historicism, purism, exoticism and mysticism of color. \circled1 Fortuny's aesthetic observation dazzled at that time and he apply well-grounded opinion in historicism of his all creation and then accomplish on the whole mysticism of art and technique dwelled creativity, \circled2 Fortuny's Delphos gown realized new creation of beauty intact by that the simplicity and contingency was inquired into the art at that time. He revived that aesthetic was included in the drapery of ancient Greece, so indirectly express outline of the human body and realized pure image used a natural curved line of the human body. \circled3 Fortuny's creations included a exotic special quality. His clothes expected so many characteristics of 20C fashion and exotic, visionary fashion revolution in addition influenced on stage costume. ㉧ Fortune created new color specially "Tempera" and expressed mysticism of color that found a harmonious color character and texture through the ancient techniques included experimental mind of a multilateral try.teral try.
A Study on the Information Search Behavior Emphasis on the Self-image and Benefit -
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 22, issue 1, 1998, Pages 61~71
The purpose of this study was to identify the factors which explain consumer's information search behavior. Data were analyzed by utilizing factor analysis and multiple-regression to investigate the relationship among information sources, benefit, and actual and ideal self- image and demographics. Based on the results, information sources for benefit, actual and ideal self-image were developed. Predictors of information sources, benefits, and self-image were identified. Marketing implication about information sources were discussed. The results were as follows. 1. Actual and ideal self-images and information sources were devised into three factors. And benefits were devised into five factors. 2. Actual self-image has more predicting power than ideal self-image to the benefits which consumer sought. Among five benefits, character pursuit was the best predicted factor according to the self-image. 3. Among three information sources, mass communication was the most effective source which can be explained by the benefit and self-image. Fashion pursuit factor was the most significant factor to the mass communication oriented source.
Water Vapor Transport Properties of Nonwoven Batting Materials
Kim, Hui-Suk ; Na, Mi-Hui ; Kim, Eun-Ae ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 22, issue 1, 1998, Pages 72~79
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles Vol. 22, No. 1 (1998) p. 72∼79 The purpose of this study was to investigate the effects of geometrical structure and fiber type on the water vapor transport properties of nonwoven batting materials. Two types of fiber were used such as polyester and wool. Correlation between physical properties of nonwovens and water vapor transport rate was analyzed by Pearson Correlation. Steady and dynamic state water vapor transport properties were measured by absorption, evaporation and cobaltots chloride method respectively. The results were as follows: 1) In geometrical structure, thickness of nonwovens was effected on absorption and evaporation rate and air permeability was more influencing factor on water vapor transport rate than porosity. There were no decreasing of water vapor transport rate in hydrophilic fiber at high relative humudity. 2) The hydrophilicity of fiber affected steady and dynamic state water vapor permeabilities and wool nonwoven showed higher water vapor transport rate than polyester at high relative humidity. 3) Thickness showed higher correlation coefficient with water vapor transport rate than other physical properties of nonwovens.
Shape Classification of Bodytype of Adult Women - At Sight of Front line of the Body -
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 22, issue 1, 1998, Pages 80~88
To classify the bodytype at sight of front line of the body, 20 to 59 year-old 484 females were examined. 73 photographic and 16 anthropometric measurements were taken to each subject. The indices were used to obtain the shape factor of the bodytype. The principal component analysis was performed to obtain the shape factor of the front line of body and 6 factors were abstracted. The factor score was better than the measurements as the independent variable in applying the cluster analysis to classify the shape. As the result of the cluster analysis, the shape of the body at sight of the front line was classified in 4 types. It was named X, Y, A, H type. Considering the sizes, Y type was obese and H type was lean characteristically.
Changes of Consumers' Values reflected in Apparel Advertisements - A content analysis of advertisements in men's magazine, 1976~1996-
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 22, issue 1, 1998, Pages 89~99
The purpose of this study was to investigate the change of consumers' values as appeared in advertisements. Advertisements in men's magazine from 1976 to 1996 were classified by VALSI program. The results were as follows. 1. There was a significant trend that advertisements with outer-directed value decreased while the ones with inner-directed value increased. 2. In case of outer-directed group appeared in advertisements, There was a tendency that the hierarchy of needs shifted from emulators to achievers. However, the shift in hierarchy of needs in inner-directed group was not significant. 3. Even though the advertisements with material value were predominant, there was a tendency that the advertisement with material value decreased while the ones with human value increased.
Dyeing Property of Polyester in Byebath Containing Water and Water Miscible Organic Solvents
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 22, issue 1, 1998, Pages 100~107
Polyester filaments were dyed with disperse dye in dyebath containing water and water miscible organic solvents . acetone, 1,4-dioxane, DMF. In case of Acetone and 1,4-dioxane, the equilibrium dyeuptake was maximun at the volume fraction 0.05. The equilibrium dye uptakes were decreased as volun~e fraction of organic solvents were increased. When the volume fractions of water miscible organic solvents were varied, dye uptake was increased constantly with dyeing time. In dyebath containing water and water miscible organicsolvent, the dyeuptake was increased quickly during initial 40∼ 60 min. and slowly increased there after. The slope of Ct/Coo to t was greater in dyebath containing water and water miscible organic solvents than dyebath containing water. The differences of the slope with volulne fractions of water miscible organic solvent were not shown big.
Impact of Clothing Tariff on Consumer Surplus in Korea after WTO Agreements(Part I)
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 22, issue 1, 1998, Pages 108~115
The objective of this study was to estimate the quantitative loss of the consumer surplus due to the tariffs on clothing imports during the WTO starting periods. For 1984-1996, the import price elasticity of the clothing was estimated from the regression of pet capita clothing imports on Per capita GNP, import price index and domestic producer price index. Then the quantitative losses of the consumer surplus in clothing were obtained from the simplified formula for 1990-1995. In spite of the decrease in textiles St clothing tariff rates, consumer costs were increasing, which was caused by the tremendous increase in clothing imports during the same period. The loss of the consumer surplus was 7131 billion wonts in 1995, which accounted for 6.4% of the total clothing expenditure.
A Study on Wearing Sensation in Accordance with difference in Materials of Aerobic Wear
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 22, issue 1, 1998, Pages 116~126
This study was conducted to examine the effect of difference in materials of aerobic wear on both human body's physiological reactions and subjective wearing sensation by comparing and analysing not only cotton sparidex A, B and C but nylon spandex D, E and F used as actually wearing materials. The rectal temperature of type A and I remained at high degree, the type C was higher from after high-speed running but dropped sharply when taking a break finally. Both skin temperature and mean skin temperature dropped sharply due to sweat occurred during physical exercise, and then rose slowly when taking a break. Type A -D and B-I showed that the mean skin temperature remained at high degree when wearing a cotton spandex. Type C's temperature within its aerobic wear was lower than type F while its relative humidity was higher than type F. Wearing sensation showed a change similar to wearing, particularly, which was remarkable in type B-E. Also, it was shown that humidity sensation, tactile sensation and comfort sensation were good when wearing the cotton spandex.
The Recognition and the Somatotype Analysis of the Women's Lower Part of the Body for Slacks Pattern - from age 30 to age 49-
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 22, issue 1, 1998, Pages 127~138
Through the recognition and the satisfaction of the lower part of the women body from age 30 to age 49 we studied 211 respondents of the women to analyze what lower part shape they want. The results are as follows. 1. The recognition of the lower Part showed certain degrees of differences in waist girth, abdomen girth, and weight according to the age. 2. The female of the 40s showed higher satisfaction of their lower part considering that of the 30s 3. The cluster analysis of the lower part shape of the 30s and 40s was classified into 5 types.
A Study on Flare Skirt Pattern by Utilizing CAD System
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 22, issue 1, 1998, Pages 139~148
This study was performed to develop the flare skirt pattern in CAD system by each of the textile's test. 1 made 28 flare skirts(360
, length of 60 cm, straight gram at front ST side seam, 28 kind of textiles) and found the changes of skirt length. And I measured thickness, weight, density, drapability and bending in these textiles. Therefore, It analyzed these data and found it regression.
Thermoregulatory Responses in the Elderly and the Young under the Ondol System
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 22, issue 1, 1998, Pages 149~158
The purpose of this study was to investigate the effect of age on the human thermoregulatory responses and to obtain the basic information of the Korean thermophysiological characteristics under the traditional Korean floor heating system-Ondol. The participants consisted of 10 elderly women, 4 elderly men(over 65 years), 10 young women and 5 young men(in twenties). They were exposed to temperature-controlled Ondol room(20
5%R.H., floor surface temperature: 30
) for 60 minutes and wore the same experimental clothing. The postures were performed sitting and supine on the floor. In each pose, rectal temperature, skin.temperature of 10 areas, mean skin temperature, clothing microclimate, body fat were measured. The results were as follows; 1. The rectal temperature gradually decreased and mean skin temperature gradually increased in young and old groups in both supine and sitting pose on heated Ondol floor for 60 minutes. 2. Rectal temperature was different in each pose. The rectal temperature decreased 0.1
in both groups under the condition of sitting and decreased 0.2'c in elderly group under the condition of supine. In supine pose, elderly group was more declined than young group. Mean skin temperature increased 0.5
in both poses, both groups.
Bata Base Development for Blue Jean Marketing Strategy(Part I) - targeting young adult's buying patterns and preferred designs in fall 1997-
Kim, Chil-Sun ; Lee, Hun-Ja ; Sim, Gyu-Hye ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 22, issue 1, 1998, Pages 159~169
The purpose of this study was to develop a large representative data base of market information for jeans apparel. This study was to observe consumer buying behavior and to determine the market share of various brands depending on several variables such as age and distribution regions. This study also analyzed the major factors in purchasing jeans for 17-29 age groups. The 660 questionnaires were distributed and 618 reliable ones were used for statistical analysis. A SAS statistical package including frequency' table, Chi-square test, factor analysis, analysis of variance(ANOVA), Duncan's multiple range test was used. The results of this study showed that consumer possessed about 6 pairs of jeans and bought about 3 pairs of jeans per year. The most recently purchased brand was Nix. Lots of brands were statistically significant at the segmented three age groups and in the five different distribution regions. The most popular type of design was the basic style. The result of factor analysis indicated 4 factors(quality/comfort, famous brand/fashion, mood/extrinsic attitude, economy). The result of ANOVA represented that three factors among them have influenced on the preferred design types.