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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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Volume & Issues
Volume 22, Issue 8 - Nov 1998
Volume 22, Issue 7 - Sep 1998
Volume 22, Issue 6 - Aug 1998
Volume 22, Issue 5 - Jul 1998
Volume 22, Issue 4 - May 1998
Volume 22, Issue 3 - Mar 1998
Volume 22, Issue 2 - Feb 1998
Volume 22, Issue 1 - Jan 1998
Selecting the target year
A Study on The Ritual Dancing Suit of Three Dynasty (Part I)
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 22, issue 2, 1998, Pages 173~184
The results of this theis are as follows. As regards the chronological transformation of the royal court dancing which is characterized by the variousness and colorfulness of the old-fashioned dancing suit, in the pre-dynasty of triple alliance among Shinla, Bakjae, and Goguryeo, the traditional ritual stood on ceremony through the ceremonial dancing in support of a religional rite. But while the Shinla, Bakjae, and GoGuRyeo dynasty began to excercise the systematic royal control over people, each royal court employed the professional ritual dancers; and it encouraged them to dance on the variety of ceremony on behalf of a rite and celebration. Of course, except for that of Shinla dynasty, it is not so easy to find out the historical record for the evidence which can back up these facts. As representatives of a ritual dancing, the religional ceremony of Shinla dynasty brought about the orientation of GumGee-Mu, MooAe-Mu, Saseon-Mu, Seonyu-Ak, and Cheoyong-Mu.
A Case Study on Methodology Applying Fabric Stretch Property for Pants Pattern Drafting
Cheon, Jong-Suk ; Seok, Eun-Yeong ; Park, Sun-Ji ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 22, issue 2, 1998, Pages 185~192
The methodology of applying fabric stretch ratio in the grants pattern drafting was evaluated. The experimental fabrics employed in this study were 3 different knit fabrics with various stretch ratio in vertical or horizontal direction. The firm fitting pants pattern was modified by applying the fabric stretch ratio in vertical ana horizontal direction. The computer automatic drafting method was used for pants pattenl alteration. The suitability of the altered pattern was evaluated by the 7 clothing specialists, The results showed that fit of all experimental garments was improved in general. The garment which was constructed with the fabric having large difference between horizontal stretch ratio and vertical stretch ratio showed poor fit at crotch area. This result implies that computer aided pattern alteration is not appropriate when fabric stretch ratio is vary by the fabric directions.
Clothing Condition of Elderly Men Focusing on Somatotype Variation and Satisfaction with Ready-to-Wear
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 22, issue 2, 1998, Pages 193~202
The purpose of this study was to understand clothing condition of elderly men focusing on somatotype variation and satisfaction with ready-to-wear and to provide basic data in designing ready-to-wrar for the elderly men. The questionnaire method was used and one-to-one interviews were held for the elderly residents in Seoul, Deajon, Jonju, and Yeosu areas. The total of 275 questionnaires (from 148 elderly men in the 60's, 99 in the 70's and 28 in the 80's) were collected and used for statistics. SAS package was used for the statistics and the statistics were based on frequency, X2-test, ANOVA, Duncan's multifle range test. The results of the study were as follows; 1) Height (p< .05), weight (p< .001) and Rohrer index (p< .05) decreased significantly with ageing 2) The somatotypes of 75.6% were changed and the 70's 8t the 80's showed significantly (p< .05) higher changing rate compared to the 60's and more changes took place significantly (p< .001) with ageing. 3) The most preferred out wear was suit & tie and next was jumper or shirt. 4) For the mode of getting suit, the highest number 55.3%) purchased ready-to-wear, next (32.0%) was tailored and the least (12.7%) neither purchased nor tailored. The percentage of buying ready-to-wear significantly (p< .01) decreased with ageing. The main reason for getting tailor-made was not well fitting of ready-to-wear (20.7% out of 32.0%). And for the mode of getting suit, there was significant differance with income (p< .001) and pocket money (p< .01). 5) The most important factors in suit and shirt werefirst, size (fitness) and second, comfort in movement. 6) For the wearing feeling of suit, 55.3% showed discomfort. There was significant difference according to the age (p< .05) and pocket money (p< .05). The Discomfort increased with ageing and less pocket money. 7) 62.4% answered it uneasy to Pick out well fitting If comfortable suit. This showed their dissatisfaction with ready-to-wear. 8) As for the items of not well fitting, 64.4% answered in jacket, 60.8% in trousers, 46.0% in shirt. The above result shows that elderly men's somatotype changes as they age, suit is found uncomfortable and it's not easy for elders to pick out comfortable ready-to-wear. So, they seem to have a certain dissatisfaction in ready to wear. Therefore, there is a need for reorganization of size and developing pattern design according to measurement of elderly men.
Somatotype of Women's Upper Body in their thirties through a Development Figure of the Surface of the Body
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 22, issue 2, 1998, Pages 203~214
The purpose of this study is to classify the upper body of women into several kinds of somatotypes, using the method of Surgical Tape and making their shells. The subjects are 53 females 30 to 39 years-old. Fifty-three anthropometric data are measured per shell of bodysurface; six somatotype factors are obtained through principal component analysis and orthogonal rotation by the method of Varimax, Somatotype of women's upper body is achieved by cluster analysis, using the standardized factor score as an independent variable and the FASTCLUS of SAS by Kmeans. The results are as follows: 1. The number of the factors which explain the somatotype is six and those factors comprise 76.12 percent of total variance. Factor 1: related to the size of shape in the front of upper body Factor S: related to the size of shape in the back of upper body Factor 3: related to the type of the upper chest over the chest circumference line Factor 4: related to the length of·the upper body Factor 5: related to the part of the neck Factor 6: related to the type of the lower chest under the chest circumference line 2. Cluster analysis results in classification of upper body into five clusters. Cluster L: the length is the largest and the circumference is small. The part of waist is the largest and widest among surface areas. Cluster 2: Slender body line from chest to waist is characteristic. The length is longer. The part of upper and lower chest is larger among surface areas. Cluster S: the circumference is the smallest and armhole is small. The length and surface area are small. Cluster 4: the circumference and armhole is the largest. The length is the smallest. Cluster 5: the circumference is average and the length is a little long. The body line(silhouette) from chest to waist is curved slightly.
Study of Causal Model on Clothing Satisfaction according to Country-of-Origin Effect
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 22, issue 2, 1998, Pages 215~223
The main purpose of this study was to investigate if and how country-of-origin as product characteristics and attitude toward imported brand and brand familiarity as consumer characteristics have impacts on consumer satisfaction with imported apparel. Disconfirmation paradigm was used as a theoretical framework. 570 consumers who had buying experiences of imported apparel were interviewed in department stores. The results showed that the most influential factor on consumer satisfaction with imported apparel was perceived clothing product performance. Country-of-origin and expectations had little effects. Country-of-origin appeared effective on consumer satisfaction only in the case of European products. Consumers were satisfied less as their expectations level were high, which indicated expectations had contrast effects on clothing satisfaction.
An Influence of Protease on Damage of Fiber
Song, Gyeong-Heon ; Yang, Jin-Suk ; Choe, Jong-Myeong ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 22, issue 2, 1998, Pages 224~232
Protease is mixtured in detergent to remove protein-soil easily. It must not act on the any fiber except protein-soil during laundry. So the purpose of this study is to investigate how protease is affect the fiber, particulary the protein-fiber. For this purpose, silk, wool and nylon are selected as samples, and the extent of the damage was estimated as tensile strength and surface condition (that is fibrillation). The results are as follows. The tensile strength of fiber treated with protease were lowered at enzyme concentration 0.1%, temperature 4
, and, as washing time was longer, it was lowered more. And it was showed that the surface of fibers were fiblliated by protease during washing. From this results, it was found that protease damaged protein-fiber. The damage of silk was the largest of all, and wool was less damaged than silk, because it has the scale (cuticle) on the outside. Additionary, an influence of surfactant on damage of fiber was little about three fibers, but, the fibers were damaged more by the binary nonionic-surfactant and protease mixture than by protease only.
Characteristics of Chinese Consumers Related to Clothing Consumption
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 22, issue 2, 1998, Pages 233~240
The main objective of this study was to develop a basic information base on Chinese consumers related to clothing purchases. Previous studies on Chinese consumers were extensively reviewed and in-depth interviews were conducted with 12 middle-level managers at Korean apparel companies which market their merchandises in China. Combined results from the reviews on previous studies and interviews indicated that traditional values, communism and industrialization are the major forces which shape contemporary Chinese consumers. Industrialization, in particular, accompanied by influx of western culture and economic development, has resulted in wide-spread phenomenon of conspicuous consumption. Thus, brand and brand images appeared to be the most important considerations for purchasing imported apparels. In addition, diversity of Chinese consumers and geographical differences were emphasized, which indicated need for market segmentation. Other characteristics including body measurements also provided implications for fashion marketing in China.
Somatotype Classification and Discrimination in the Lower Torso and Legs of Adult Females
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 22, issue 2, 1998, Pages 241~249
Somatotypes in the lower torso and legs of adult females were classified and discriminated. Then their distribution according to the age groups was studied. The subjects were 343 females of 18 to 49 year-old. 36 anthropometric and 21 photographic measurements were taken to each subject. The results were as follows: 1. The somatotypes in the lower torso and legs were classified into 4 types and their differences were shown by analysing factor scores and anthropometric values according to each somatotype. 2. The shape characteristic of tile classified somatotypes was represented by the rating scale of Heath-Carter. 3. The lateral silhouettes of 4 types were compared with balanced type which is type 3 in this study. 4. Individual somatotype in the lower torso and legs could be discriminated from the measured anthropometric data without modifying the data. Anthropometric data, which are needed for discriminating individual somatotype, are waist circumference, posterior waist height, and hip circumference. 5. The distribution of the somatotypes in each age group showed that the dominant somatotype of each age group was different and any somatotype was shown in a specified age group but rarely in other age group.
A Study on the Women's Eyebrows in Han Dynasty-in the Focus of Cheong-Dae-
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 22, issue 2, 1998, Pages 250~256
The culture of makeup has early developed in China. Especially, beautiful eyebrows were the symbol of a beauty. This study is related to fashionable Cheong-Dae in Han Dynasty. In Han Dynasty, women painted thier eyebrows with blue color in a different color from former periods. This fact has close connection with the bordering countries on Western China. Together with Hu fashion having been in fashion during trading directive with Western China women has seemed to use Cheong-Dae for their makeup in Han Dynasty. In Hand Dynasty, Ferghana women had very often used it for their makeup. And it had produced in Ferghana, Jaguda, Kashkar. In Tang Dynasty, it has been said that Persia was the best. Let's take a look at the producing method. Soak indigo plants in water add lime and stir it up, then bubbles are formed. They are called it as Cheong-Dae. Nearly, they are produced in the course of indigo dying. So we can see inflowing course of Cheong-Dae into China through the history of Indigo dying. We can guess the use of Cheong-Dae in Egypt. Indeed, Nile Blue is used for the Protection their access from insects as well as effect of coolness visually. This guess is very reasonable because the fact is considered that some people dye with indigo color by the way of sedimentation in Peniasula of Sinai. Also, the PH of Cheong-Dae is about 7. So, it does no harm in skin and its color is dark blue. Cheong-Dae has effects of insecticide and removal of fever. Cheong-Dae that had been used in Peninsula of Egypt seems to have been carried into China through Silk Route. And by trial to make Cheong-Dae it is proved that its ingredient is plant.
Fatigue Phenomenon of Mechanical Properties in Jean Slacks by the after Wearing
Lee, Chang-Mi ; Kim, Tae-Gyu ; Gwon, O-Gyeong ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 22, issue 2, 1998, Pages 257~266
This study was conducted to examine the changes of the mechanical properties of the position in jean slacks during the wear, previously used for the wearing test, which were subjected to repeated tensile-shearing deformation using a simulated fatigue tester has been investigated and compared, by calculating both mechanical properties and hand value(HV) of these fabrics with KES-F system and the by obtaining the THV through these calculated properties. The results are as follows. 1. The fatigue phenomenon of mechanical properties was the LT, 2H B, 2HBS, MMD, SMD, RC values increased, elasticity values of tensile, bending and shearing properties, such as B, G and compression properties LC, WC were reduced. It was shown, then, that those fabrics lost their elasticity and became flexible and soft with the increase of fatigue. 2. The hand value and THV; except anterior knee from all part of KOSHI, NUMERI, FUKURAMI was decreased. 3. The fatigue phenomenon of hand value was different on the position of clothing; on the position of hip, rate of B, G smaller than other parts and KOSHI was decreased, on the part of anterior thigh was FUKURAMI was increased, on the anterior knee RC, NUMERI, THV was increased, on the posterior knee was 2HB, 2HG, 2HGS showed increasedgreater than any other part and on the hem of back, MMD was increased, but NUMERI was decreased. 4. The changing process of mechanical properties in the simulation testing by the fatigue tester has similar tendency to that of the wearing tester. It is concluded that this testing method is useful to predict the fatigue phenomena of fabrics caused by wearing.
A Study on the Degree of Self-monitoring, Situation and the Appeal Type of Advertising Impact on Inner
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 22, issue 2, 1998, Pages 267~278
The purpose of this study was to investigate the degree of self-monitoring (SM), the task situation and the appeal type of advertising impact on consumer behavior: in inner wear purchase. Information for the study was obtained with the use of experimental design. the experimental materials for the study were two-type inner wear advertisements (image appeal Ad/product appeal Ad). The subjects were 270, who were randomly sampled women undergraduate students in Korea, and main-test subjects (70 high SM subjects/69 low SM subjects) were assigned to the cells of 2 (self usage/gift-giving)x2 (quality appeal Ad/image appeal Ad). According to the 2x(2
2) mixed factorial design, the level of SM score, the type of task situation score and the level of appeal type of advertising score were compared and tested by analysis of ANOVA. The results of experiment were as follows: 1. Experimental 1. the results showed the product preference on inner wear was the significant 3-way interaction effects among the degree of SM, the task situation, and the appeal type of advertising as well as the significant main effects of the appeal type of advertising. That is, the situation impact differs from the appeal type of advertising according to the degree of SM. 2. Experimental ll. the results showed the purchase intention on inner wear was the significant 2-way interaction effects between the appeal type of advertising and the task situation as well as the significant main effects of the appeal type of advertising and the task situation. That is, there is considerable difference in gift-giving situation rather than in self- usage situation according to the appeal type of advertising.
A Study on the Dimensions of Clothing Attitudes
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 22, issue 2, 1998, Pages 279~289
This study was performed to investigate the dimensions of clothing attitudes and to study differences of the dimensions according to the demographic variables. The subjects selected for final analysis were 595 adults ranging from 20's to 50's in age. The clothing attitudes were classified into nine dimensions: fashionability, clothing involvement, clothing conformity, modesty, status symbolism, comfort, manageability, individuality and economy. And the dimensions were significantly different according to monthly expenditure on clothing, sex and educational level.