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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 22, Issue 8 - Nov 1998
Volume 22, Issue 7 - Sep 1998
Volume 22, Issue 6 - Aug 1998
Volume 22, Issue 5 - Jul 1998
Volume 22, Issue 4 - May 1998
Volume 22, Issue 3 - Mar 1998
Volume 22, Issue 2 - Feb 1998
Volume 22, Issue 1 - Jan 1998
Selecting the target year
A study on the mordanting and dyeing properties of Rhusjara ica Dye
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 22, issue 8, 1998, Pages 971~977
For the purpose of standardization and practicability of nautral dyeing, the mordanting and dyeing properties of Rhusjara ica was studied. Appropriate extraction, dyeing and mordanting condition of Rhusjara ica were determined, and the effect of mordanting method on dye uptake and color fastness of dyed fabric was investigated. The most absorbance of Rhusjara ica solution was 299 nm. The color of Rhusjara ica solution was affected by pH 8~9. The optimum temperature to extract Rhusjara ica was 6
and dyeing solution for 1 hour. Effective dyeing time to silk was 60min. Effective mordanting temperature was 80~10
, and its time was 30 min. K/S value of dyeing fabrics was recoginazed by mordanting treatment, specially Fe, Al, Cu. K/S value of pre-mordanting was higher than post-mordanting. In the case of Rhusjara ica fastness was increased by mordanting treatment.
Humor image in Fashion Illustrations
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 22, issue 8, 1998, Pages 978~989
The purpose of this study is enrich the expressivity in fashion illustrations by looking into the expression of humor which is seen in the fashion illustration. In addition, this study is expected to provide a theoretical basis to the people whose works are concern with Fashion design. It is the fashion illustration that expresses the specific concept that accords with the purpose of drawing. And we need to create our own techniques freely and to develop them into higher ones. In this view, we can say that the humor in the fashion illustrations shows us the new world of expression. And we can also say that it fills the roles of social functions to purify human emotions with helping the communication between people in our highly developed society. Finally, the expression of humor in fashion illustrations can be described as followings. First, they are relate with the superiority, disparity, psychic release in the theory of humor's origin. Second, the image of humor can be induced by changing the figure of human body. Third, it can be encouraged by contrasting the different fashion images. Forth, we can use well-known icons that cause the humor does not only give us laugh but also reflect the era, society enlarge the range of expression in fashion illustrations.
A Study on the Influences of IMF, Subjective Social Classes and Clothing Buying Behaviors
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 22, issue 8, 1998, Pages 990~1000
The purpose of this study is to find out the relationship between consumer's economic environments and clothing buying behaviors. Consumer's economical environments can be identified as the influence of IMF and subjective social classes. And clothing buying behavior can be defined such as clothing buying motives, informants, clothing selective standards, price, patronage store in terms of consumer decision making process. This study was carried out in theoretical and empirical ways. The questionnaire was administered to 375 university students living in seoul during the April, 1998. The results of empirical study were as follows; First, Consumer's individual characteristics are proven to be significantly related to the influence of IMF and subjective social classes. Second, the influence of IMF is proven to be significantly correlated to the clothing buying behavior. Third, the subjective social classes is proven to be partially related to the clothing buying behavior.
A Study on the Figuration of Korean Traditional Pattern Images
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 22, issue 8, 1998, Pages 1001~1010
The purpose of this study was to investigate the images and characteristic formative elements of Korean traditional patterns. The Korean pattern image could be interpreted into visual elements of design based on the images, the characteristic formative elements of Korean traditional patterns, and their relationships. Fourteen patterns selected from 5 groups of Korean patterns were used as stimuli. An image evaluation using a 2-point sementica scale of 19 bipolar adjectives, and an impression evaluation of which results were presented by visual drawing using lines and shapes were carried out. The data were analyzed by correspondence analysis and cluster analysis. The major findings are as follows; 1. Fourteen patterns and 19 adjectives were marked on a perception map composed of two (x and y-) axes. The bipoles of x- and y axes were soft-hard and splendid-artless, respectively. 2. Four clusters semerged to account for the dimensional sturucture of 14 patterns and 19 adjectives. These were splendid image, soft image, individualistic image, and sophisticated image. However there was no pattern which belonged to the cluster, sophisticated image. The Korean pattern image was founded to be better related to the kind of patterns than the type of patterns. 3. The characteristic formative elements obtained from the impression test were contour of motif, repeated line or shape, various curved lines, and decorative elements. 4. The splendid image was related to Bongwhang patterns and detailed line and complexity. The individualistic image was related to the abstractive form of Bongwhang pattern and the decorative form of Cloud pattern both of which have the characteristics of point-symmetry and abstraction, and Turtle-back pattern. In this case, the related charac-teristic formative element was identified to be repeated lines. The soft image was related to Moran, Cloud, and Taegeuk patterns. The related characteristic elements were various types of curved lines, decorative elements, and rounded contours.
Fabrics Dyeing using Natural dyestuff Manufactured from Squid Ink
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 22, issue 8, 1998, Pages 1011~1019
The natural dyestuff(squid ink) was manufactured from squid ink by boiling in 0.1% NaOH solution and powdering in freeze dryer. Cotton, wool, silk and nylon fabrics were dyed under several conditions using the manufactured squid ink to investigate the dyeability and color fastness. Dyeing was operated in acidic dyebath of pH 4 because the squid ink is anionic. Dyeabilities on wool, silk and nylon fabrics were good, especially silk fabrics were dyed deeper than others because of being amine group. But dyeability on cotton fabrics was low and developed with chitosan treatment. All the dyed fabrics showed excellent in color fastness to crocking and laundering. Also light fastness of them were excellent except nylon. The light fastness of dyed-nylon fabrics was as poor as grade 1, but they could be improved to grade 4 by aftertreatment with gallicacid. Useing the natural dyestuff-squid ink powder, we could execute whenever we want to dye fabrics in the adequate concentration. Dyeabilities were developed according to repeating times of dyeing and the increased dye concentration. We could recycle the wasting sources.
Effectsd of posture on physiological thermal responses with Ondol heating system
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 22, issue 8, 1998, Pages 1020~1031
This study was done to investigate thermal reponses and to obtain the basic information of thermal comfort by sex and posture under the Ondol heating system. Six healthy males and females were exposed to Ondol(Room Temp.: 25
10%R.H, Floor Temp.:30
) on the of posture such as sitting, lying aside and supine on the floor for 30 minutes after 30 minutes' control phase. During the experiment, rectal temperature, skin temperature of 10 areas, local sweating rate, clothing microclimate, subjective sensation were measured. Rectal temperature gradually decreased and mean skin temperature grad-ually increased both male and female in any posture. There was not significant difference between male and female in rectal temperature and mean skin temperature. There were significant difference among the postures in rectal temperature(p<0.001) and mean skin temperature(p<0.001). In lying aside and supine on the floor, appearances of change and changes in rectal temperature and mean skin temperature were large, changes of weight were small. In sitting on the floor, appearances of change and changes in rectal temperature and mean skin temperature were small, changes of weight were large. The trunk skin tem-perature was higher in female than in male, but the extremity skin temperature was higher in male than in female. In sitting on the floor, foot skin temperature(p<0.001) was higher than any other local skin temperature. In supine on the floor, back skin temperature(p<0.001) was higher than any other local skin temperature.
The Change of the Physical Properties of Rayon/Cotton Blend Fabrics Treated with Cellulase by Addition of Silicon
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 22, issue 8, 1998, Pages 1032~1042
The purpose of this study is to measure, compare, and investigate the physical properties of rayon/cotton blend fabrics treated with cellulase and cellulase & specific degeneration silicon and to present basic data which is in development a value-added fabric. The results are as follows. The condition for the treatment of cellulase was at 55
, pH 4 and the weight loss increased as the concentration of cellulase and the treated time increased. On treatment with cellulase, the crossectional view & longitudinal view of fiber noticed remarkable crack as weight loss increased and tensile strength and elongation decreased, and pilling was enhanced remarkably. KOSHI was increased, NUMERI and FUKURAMI were decreased as weight loss increased. In the basic characteristic value of clothing wearning, shape stability and drapability were decreased, but air content was improved. On treatment with cellulase & silicon, the degree of damage in the crossectional view & longitudinal view of the fiber reduced. Tensile strength, elongation, moisture regain improved. KOSHI and FUKURAMI were reduced, NUMERI was improved rather than when it was treated with cellulase. Therefore handle was improved. In the basic characteristic value of the clothing wearing, shape stability, air content, drapability were improved.
Comparative Study of Asian Ethnic Dresses(PartI)
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 22, issue 8, 1998, Pages 1043~1051
The main purpose of this paper was to investigate how ethnic dresses are adopted into modern fashion designs. This research focuses on Japan and Vietnam as a part of an ongoing larger project which examines ethnic dresses of five Asian countries. Fashion designs with influences of Japanese and Vietnames ethnic dresses were anlayzed in order to explore how ethnic dresses coexist with "world fashion" in contemporary society. Eight fashion magazines were examined and the pictures of eigher Japanese or Vietnamese influences were identified. A total of 66 pictures for Japan and 5 for Vietnam were analyzed in terms of eleven characteristics on zero-to-three scales according to authenticity of each characteristic. The characteristics included shape, item, silhouette, color, material, textile print, decorative details, method of dressing, accessories, hairstyle and make-up. The results showed that textile prints and color of Japanese ethnic dresses, and item, silhouette and hat of Vietnamese dresses were most frequently adopted in modern fashion designs. These suggested that fashion world adopts the most distinctive and easy-to-copy characteristics of the ethnic dresses when the designers wanted to incorporate the styles of ethnic dresses.c dresses.
A Visual Image Perception of Clothing Colors, Color combinations of Korean Traditional Dress for Woman(Part 2)
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 22, issue 8, 1998, Pages 1052~1059
The purposes of the study were to analyse the colors and, color combinations effect on the image perception using gestalt theory. The research method was a quasi-experimental with a between subjects design. The experimental materials developed for the study were a set of stimuli and a response scale. The stimuli was consisted of 17 drawings of females wearing Korean traditional dress, by using CAD simulation. A response scale consisted of semantic differential scales. The subjects were 1138 undergraduate students of Taejon city, Chungnam province and Chungbuk province. Their responses to the semantic differential scales were analyzed using factor analysis, ANOVA, Duncans multiple range test. Results were as follows; 1) The colors effect of blouse was significantly greater than the effect of skirt, and no interaction effect was found between blouse colors and skirt colors. 2) In bi-color combination dress set, the combined image of the two colors were compared to the image of the two mono color sets: No single principle was found, however, salient color (such as yellow) and unattractive color (such as green) seemed to act as central trait colors on the image perception. On conclusion the visual image of Korean traditional dress wearer was affected by central trait colors in bi-color combination, and this results support the gestalt theory with central traits.
Nonformaldehyde Anti-crease Finish of Ramie with Glyoxal (Part I)
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 22, issue 8, 1998, Pages 1060~1068
The effects of various catalysts and softners on the anti-crease finish of ramie with glyoxal were investigated. A number of metal salts commonly used as Lewis acid catalysts in DP finishing of cotton with formaldehyde and N-methylol agents were screened for glyoxal treatment of ramie fabric. Various organic and inorganic acids were mixed with Lewis acid catalyst as co-catalysts to improve catalytic activity. As a result, the combination of aluminum sulfate and citric acid was proven highly effective in catalyzing the crosslinking of ramie cellulose by glyoxal under lower curing temperature. With a mixed catalyst, performance properties, such as whiteness and tearing strength as well as wrinkle recovery of treated ramie fabric were improved as compared with that treated with aluminum sulfate alone. Additional improvement of tearing strength and wrinkle recovery was achieved by applying silicons softner in the treatment bath.
The Effects of Body Image on Clothing Attitude, Fashion Innovativeness, and Shopping in American Female College Students
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 22, issue 8, 1998, Pages 1069~1078
A Study on the Change of Hand of Chitosan-treated Fabrics(Part IV)
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 22, issue 8, 1998, Pages 1079~1089
Various fabrics, including natural fibers, regenerated cellulosic fibers, synthetic fibers, blend yarn, and mixture fabrics, were treated with the solutions of high purity chitosan in 1% acetic acid, having high viscosity of 930cps or low viscosity of 8cps. Physical/ mechanical properties of the treated fabrics samples were measured using Kawabata Evaluation System and drape tester. From these, hand values and total hand values of the fabric samples were calculated using Kawabata-Niwa translation equations. KOSHI, SHARI, HARI values have increased for the treated samples, while FUKURAMI values have decreased in general.
Classification of Size Specifications for the Ready-made Jacket-from 28 years to 35 on the Korean adult male-
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 22, issue 8, 1998, Pages 1090~1098
The purpose of this study was to classify size specifications of the Korean adult male for the men's ready-made garments, especially jacket and dress shirts. By the stratified sampling method, data were collected by the real anthropometric measurement and by the photo-graphic sources. Sample size was 532 subjects as the sample and their age range was from 28 to 35 years old. 66 variables from the direct anthropometric data in total were applied to analyze. ANOVA in SPSS WIN package was applied to the data and the expected frequency distribution of 10.000 men was calculated by the extraction of density function. This study was performed to classify size specifications by the control dimensions and at the same interval of KS-K. The drop values of 15, 12 and 9 have the high coverage rate of 26.00%, 24.29% and 21.06% respectively and are composed of the majority of 71.35% of the subjects. According to the drop values, size specifications and distribution of control and reference dimensions are predicted. About 52.12% of the expected frequency distribution without stature were covered by 12 size specifications.
The Effect of Price Information Cues on The Consumer's Apparel Quality Evaluations
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 22, issue 8, 1998, Pages 1099~1110
The perceived quality is a concept considered from the consumer's perspective. So it is differ from the objective determination of product quality. Thus the consumer perception of quality is a subjective judgement of an individual and an overall feeling on the characteristics which includes the product's reliability, performance and so on. In terms of product perception, consumers utilize the product cues in evaluating the product's quality before the purchase and the cues reflecting the quality can be classifisied into intrinsic and extrinsic ones. When the quality perception is limited to the purchase situation, purchase decision dependent on surrogate indicators such as price, are inclined to increase due to the lack of information. Therefore in this study the perceived quality of apparel is controled to the purchase situation in order to examine the consumer's reaction to the price cues and for the convenience of the exploratory investigation. As a result of the empirical study, consumers show differences in quality and value perceptions to the product with the same price depending on the perception whether the price is high or low. The apparel quality evaluation process goes through the steps of "product attributes - perceived quality - perceived value - purchase intention".
The Effect of Ornaments and Color of Jacket on Female Impression
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 22, issue 8, 1998, Pages 1111~1121
The objectives of this study were to identify the dimensional structure of female impression formation based on ornaments and color of jacket, and to analyze the effect of ornaments, color of jacket, and perceiver's gender on impression formation. The experimental design was 3
color of jacket
gender) factorial design by 3 independent variables. The stimuli of color photographs of female model and the semantic differential scale were used. Samples were 288 college males and females. The data were analyzed by factor analysis, ANOVA, duncan's multiple range test, and t-test. Four factors derived to account for the dimensions of impression formation. These were potency, elegance, evaluation, youthfulness, and feminine. Wearing of large ornaments(a necklace and earrings) had a negative effect on impression of elegance and positive on potency. Red jackets increased the impression of positive evaluation, potency, feminity, and youthfulness. On the jackets of achromatic color such as white and black, wearing of large ornaments increased the effect of potency, and large ornaments increased matured impression on black jacket. The results of this study mean that perceiverss used large ornaments and red jackets as a salient cue.
The Effects of Brand Knowledge on Evaluations of Brand-name and Corporate-name Extension on the Levels of Brand and Corporate Awareness in Fashion Market
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 22, issue 8, 1998, Pages 1122~1131
The purpose of this study was to examine the effects of brand-related and corporate-realted knowledge on brand-name extension and corporate-name extension, respectively in fashion market. Here, it is designed into three types of brand and corporate awareness; 1) Higher brand awareness and corporate awareness, 2) higher brand awareness and lower corporate awareness, and 3) lower brand awareness and higher corporate awareness. For this study, questionnaires were administered to 700 single women in twenties. The questionnaires were designed to measure evaluations of brand-name extension and corporate-name extension and brand-related and corporate-related knowledge in terms of familiarity, use experience, self-assessed knowledge, evaluation of attributes and attitude. Employing a sample of 621 women, data were analyzed by Multi-Regression analysis. Major findings of this study are summarized as follows; 1) In level of higher brand and corporate awareness, the evaluations of brand-name extension were influenced by corporate-related knowledge such as brand use experience, evaluation of brand attributes and brand attitude. Also, the evaluations of corporate-name extension were influenced by both brand-related knowledge such as brand attitude and corporate-related knowledge such as use experience of product awareness and lower corporate awareness, brand-related knowledge such as evaluation of brand attributes and brand attitude was identified as the important factor in the evaluations of brand-name extension. 3) In level of lower brand awareness and higher corporate awareness, corporate-related knowledge such as attitude toward corporate was identified as the important factor in the evaluations of corporate-name extension.
Influence of Interaction of Surface Charges of PET Fiber and
-Fe2O3 Particle on Detergency of Particulate Soil
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 22, issue 8, 1998, Pages 1132~1140
The adhesion and removal of
-Fe2O3 particles on the from PET fabric in NPE solution with different ionic strength were discussed in terms of interaction of surface charge of particle and substrate. The adhesion of
-Fe2O3 particles to PET fabric and its removal from PET fabric were carried out by using water bath shaker and Terg-O-Tometer under various solution conditions. The ζ potential of PET fiber and
-Fe2O3 particles in the detergent solution were measured by steaming potential and microelectrophoresis methods, respectively. The adhesion and removal amount of
-Fe2O3 particles on the from PET fabric increased with increasing time of adhesion and removal, and the rates of adhesion and removal were high at the initial stage of adhesion and removal, and then the rates decreased with passing time. The adhesion and removal amount of
-Fe2O3 particles on and from PET fabric increased with increasing pH of solution regardless ionic strength. The tendencies and degree of adhesion and removal were very similar regardless interaction of surface charge of particle and fiber. Therefore, in the presence of a surfactant and electrolyte, the influence of interaction of surface charge of particle and substrate on the detergency of particulate soil was small.
Effect of Cellulase Treatment on Mechanical Properties and Hand of Tencel Fabrics
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 22, issue 8, 1998, Pages 1141~1149
Tencel fabrics were treated with NaOH, mechanically prefibrillated, and hydrolyzed by cellulase. Softner was applied to improve hand of the treated Tencel fabrics after prefibrillation and cellulase treatment. Kawabata's Evaluation System for Fabrics(KES-FB) was used to evaluate effects of NaOH pretreatment, prebifrillation, and cellulase and softner treatments on fabric hand of the treated fabrics. Primary hand values of women's medium thick fabrics such as KOSHI, NUMERI, FUKURAMI, and SOFUTOSA, and total hand values were evaluation parameters. As the treatments of prefibrillation, cellulase, and softner progressed, values in bending and shearing properties decreased and softness and elasticity were imparted to the treated fabrics. Specifically, compressional linearity, compressional energy, and thickness of the treated fabrics increased by prefibrillation, providing bulkiness to the treated fabrics. Values indicating surface properties increased owing to fibrils formed by prefibrillation treatment, but removal of fibrils by cellulase treatment enhanced smoothness. As the fabrics were exposed to various treatments such as NaOH pretreatments, prefibrillation, and cellulase and softner treatments, NUMERI, FUKURAMI, SOFUTOSA, and total hand values increased with the exception of KOSHI, Consequently, the treated fabrics became softer, smoother, and more elastic. Especially, the NaOH pretreatment provided superior SOFUTOSA to Tencel fabrics.