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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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Volume & Issues
Volume 24, Issue 8 - Nov 2000
Volume 24, Issue 7 - Sep 2000
Volume 24, Issue 6 - Aug 2000
Volume 24, Issue 5 - Jul 2000
Volume 24, Issue 4 - May 2000
Volume 24, Issue 3 - Mar 2000
Volume 24, Issue 2 - Feb 2000
Volume 24, Issue 1 - Jan 2000
Selecting the target year
The Brand Image and the Benefit of 20’s Female Apparel Market(PartII) -Positioning Strategy of Brand Image in 20’s Female Apparel Market according to Benefit Segmentation-
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 24, issue 7, 2000, Pages 953~963
This study intended to analyse the factors of brand image and brand image positioning of domestic 20’s female apparel(formal wear) among the consumer groups segmented by benefits sought in apparel and to provide marketing strategy of brand image. The subject of this study were 605 working women in their 20’s living in seoul, and the model sampling was done by convenienced sampling method based on the subjects age and occupation. Survey based on references and former studies was used. and statistical methods such as frequency, percentage, mean, factor analysis, preference regression were applied. The results of this study were as follows. 1. The factor structures of brand image were classified into symbolism/aesthetics, and practicality. 2. Perception, ideal preference vector, and brand preference of brand image were proven to be significantly different among the four segmented consumer groups.
Color Preference for Clothing of Korean Adults
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 24, issue 7, 2000, Pages 964~975
The purposes of this study were to analyze the color preference for clothing of Korean male and female adults and to provide the useful data for the fashion color planning. The result of this study showed that the preferences in hue and tone are different mainly by season. The most preferred colors in clothing are YR, B and Y. Y is preferred in spring, B and W in summe, YR in fall, Gy and Black in winter. The most preferred tones in clothing are pale tone in spring and summer, dark tone in fall and winter. The color preference for casual wear is more varied than the color preference for formal wear. The tones of low saturation are preferred for formal wear and the tones of high saturation are preferred for casual wear.
A Study on Sensibility of Formative Properties in Clothing Design
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 24, issue 7, 2000, Pages 976~986
The purpose of this study is to clarify the relationship between the visual sensibility and the decorative design of clothing. 41 kinds of costume samples have been selected from photographs in fashion magazines under detail and trimming, and divided into three types according to line, shape, and form. I have measured these images by using Semantic Differential method. The obtained data were analyzed by factor analysis ANOVA, discriminant analysis, regression analysis and MDS. The results of analysis are as follow; 1. Factor analysis has extracted five factors which consist of decorative design sensibility. These factors are Attractiveness, Hardness and Softness, Rhythm, Decorativeness, Cuteness. 2. There were significant differences in visual evaluation of decorative design and demographics 3. The discrimination among formative designs was closely related to decorative image, especially between line and form. 4. The Image effect on Preference, Buying needs, Riches and Pleasant was consist of complicated sensibility. 5. Evaluative dimensions of decorative design were identified by Simple-Complicated, Cubic -Plane perceptive image differed in degree of similarity in spite of same formative design.
Mechanical Properties of Cotton Fabric Treated with BTCA and Polyalkkyleneoxide modified aminofunctional silicone
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 24, issue 7, 2000, Pages 987~994
Cotton fabrics were finished with mixture of BTCA and silicone by pad-dry-cure process to achieve better mechanical properties than those of finished with BTCA alone. The changes of mechanical properties o( finished cotton fabrics were measured with by the KES-FB System and the hand values were calculated from the data of mechanical properties. With the durable press finish with BTCA tensile, bending, shear and compression properties increased. In hand values, Stiffness Crispness and Anti-Drape Stiffness increased, and Fullness & Softness decreased. Whereas silicone treatment reduced bending and shear properties and improved tensile and compressional resilience. Thus, Stiffness Crispness and Anti-Drape Stiffness decreased, and Fullness & Softness increased. These results indicated that BTCA treatment restricts fiber/yarn mobility in the fabric structure due to crosslinking, but silicone treatment reduces inter-fiber and inter-yarn frictional forces. Therefore, finish with mixture of BTCA and silicone provided cotton fabrics with a lower Stiffness, Crispness and Anti-Drape Stiffness and a higher Fullness & Softnesss than finish with BTCA alone.
The Role of Apparel Merchandisers’in Korea
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 24, issue 7, 2000, Pages 995~1003
This study examined the role of apparel merchandisers’in Korea. Data were collected by interviewing 7 apparel merchandisers who had worked for major apparel manufacturers. The interviews were analyzed by use of chronologically sequenced events. Korean apparel merchandisers take part in planning and production of the merchandise, sales management, and promotion. Merchandisers’activities related to merchandise planning were as follows: analysis of fashion trend and market, concept evolvement, planning of assortment and volume assortment, time table set up, color pallette decision, fabrication, line adoption, pricing, line preview, production planning, and placing order of materials. Merchandisers’activities related to apparel production were planning and controlling production and consolidation. In sales, merchandisers analyze retail sales and control inventory by reorder or conducting markdown sale. In relation to promotion, apparel merchandisers monitor merchandise advertisement, and educate salesman.
A Study on the Development of a Bodice Basic Pattern for High School Girls
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 24, issue 7, 2000, Pages 1004~1014
The purpose of this study was to develop a well-fitting bodice basic pattern for high school irk. Two bodice patterns were first made based on the most recent existing drafting methods and sensory evaluation was done on the patterns by the present researchers Two high school girls possessing standard physical condition tried and evaluated the functionality of the garments made by the two bodice patterns. Based on the results of the evaluation, a new bodice basic pattern was developed. The new bodice basic pattern was drafted by long measurement method. The dimensions of new bodice basic pattern were as follows. Bust circumference=B/2+4cm, Arms hole depth=C.B/2+1.5cm, Back width=B/6+4cm, Front width=B/6+3cm, Back neck width=B/12+0.5cm, Back neck depth=Back neck width/3cm, Front neck width=B/12cm, Front neck depth=B/12+0.5cm. The sensory and functional evaluations were also conducted for the new bodice basic pattern and the two patterns drafted by the existing methods. The new bodice basic pattern showed better fit both visually and functionally than the existing patterns. SPSS package including means, standard deviation and one-sample T-test were used for data analysis.
Changes of Shape retention and Total Appearance Value(TAV) After Fusing
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 24, issue 7, 2000, Pages 1015~1024
The purpose of this study is 1) to analyse the bending property of the fused fabric and each component of the fused fabrics. 2) to examine the effect of fusing temperature on the bending property of the fused interlining and fused fabrics. 3) to examine the changes of B/W, 2HB/W and TAV of the fused fabrics according to the types of face fabric, interlining, fusing temperature. Five types of wool fabric, four types of shingosen fabric and four types of interlining were used for this study. The fusing condition in this study were the three types of fusing temperature of 10
, the pressure of 4 kgㆍf/
, and pressing time of 12 seconds. The results obtained from this study were as follows. 1) The bending rigidities and hysteresis of fabrics after fusing were increased. The bending behavior of fused fabrics were governed by the bending behavior of face fabric and interlinings and
values. 2) The KES standardized basic values of B/W and 2HB/W were increased after fusing. The B/Ws of fused fabrics were mainly determined by the
values of interlinings. The 2HB/Ws of fused fabrics seemed to be controlled by the fusing temperature. 3) The changes of TAVs of wool fused fabrics differed from those of shingosen fused fabrics. As the
values of fabric were larger and fusing temperature were increased, the TAVs of wool fused fabrics were smaller though those of shingosen fused fabrics were larger. 4) The TAVs of fused fabrics were highly correlated with the B/Ws of fused fabrics. In the case of wool fused fabrics, the TAVs of fused fabrics were negativly correlated with the 2HB/Ws of wool fabrics and used interlinings.nings.
Dyeing of Cotton/Polyester Blends with Disperse Dyes in the Presence of DMDHEU/PEG
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 24, issue 7, 2000, Pages 1025~1034
Cotton differs from polyester in physical and chemical properties. When cotton/polyester blends are dyed, water-soluble dyes are generally used for cotton and disperse dye for polyester. Thus, two bath or one bath-two step dyeing process are usually accepted. These processes consume more energy and cost compared to a single step process. To save energy and cost, a single step dyeing and finishing is carried out with disperse dyes in the presence of a crossslinking agent. K/S values of the dyed fabrics were determined to examine the dyeing property of cotton, cotton/polyester, polyester fabrics dyed with disperse dyes in the presence of DMDHEU/PEG. The concentration of DMDHEU, molecular weight and concentration of PEG, curing time and curing temperature were varied.
A Study on Excavated Costumes of the Go′s of Jang Taek
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 24, issue 7, 2000, Pages 1035~1043
This paper studied the excavated costumes of the Go's of Jang Taek that had been found in Kwangju metropolitan city in 1986. The excavated costumes mainly show Po(포) including Chopni(첩리), Dapho(답호), Danryung(단령), Jikryung (직령). In addition, there are some kinds of trousers, hat, korean socks. The meanings of excavated costumes of the Go's of Jang Taek are the followings: 1. They offer the important research materials to studying of general dress. 2. They offer actual proof materials of 15-16 century in opposition to depending on documentary records. 3. They offer the useful informations on the form, textile, dyeing because of good condition. 4. They offer the variety of Po that many persons weared at that times. 5. They offer the practical and rational construction by folding pleats and needlework. 6. They did not quilted padded clothes in comparison with other dress at that times. 7. They offer the important materials on the trousers. In the near future, we will study excavated costumes on dyeing, textile structure, trousers formation and so on.
A Suggestion of Sizing System for Clean Room Wear
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 24, issue 7, 2000, Pages 1044~1055
The purpose of this study is to suggest sizing chart for a clean room wear. 3 control dimensions(Stature, Bust girth, B.N.P.∼Wrist point length) were chosen as 3 axes of clean room wear size chart. A loss function was used to determined intervals of stature, Bust girth and B.N.P.∼Wrist point length of size chart, because the loss function introduces the concept of frequency to size chart for better customer's size satisfaction. From the size table whose intervals had been determined by a loss function. The 4 sizes individually were suggested for clean room wear size chart by sex. The 3 sizes individually were suggested for clean room head cover size chart by sex too. The suggested size chart would be considered more feasible than present size chart. Also they are suggested supply reference measurement chart relevant to clean room wear manufacturing for 13 most frequent sizes.
The Distribution Intensity for the Casual Wear Before and After IMF Management System
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 24, issue 7, 2000, Pages 1056~1064
The aim of this paper was to look at distribution intensity of casual wear brand before and after IMF Management System. It also provides the guide to distribution design and reinforces the strategy of the brand of it. Since the firm especially in casual wear industry recently has had difficulty in how to decide and to select the distribution numbers in the domestic market. Based on the data in‘98 Korea Fashion Guide’and ‘Korean Fashion Brand Annual’, 78 brands had been analyzed with percentage, multiple regression. The results were as follows: In general, the lower the price of the product is and the higher the total sale is, the more intensive the distribution of the casual wear brand is before and after IMF Management System. The longer the launching period is, the more intensive the distribution of the casual wear industry is after IMF Management System. Besides, there is difference between the brand origins in the distribution intensity. In addition, two brand types were classified and tested. The distribution intensity of jean casual wear and uni-sex casual wear have related to the price after IMF and the total sale before and after IMF Management System while there is no relationship with the launching period before and after IMF Management System. The distribution intensity of the domestic brand have related to the price, and the total sale, while the foreign brand has a relationship with the total sale before and after IMF Management System. The foreign brand has related only to launching period after IMF Management System.
Molecular Area and Interfacial Tension Behavior of Span 20 and Tween series surfactants at water/air interface
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 24, issue 7, 2000, Pages 1065~1072
The molecular areas and the interfacial tension behavior of ten nonionic surfactants, i.e., Span 20 and Tween 20, 40, 60. 80, 21, 61, 81, 65, & 85 are tested to assay their effects on the wetting and liquid retention properties of hydrophilic and hydrophobic fibrous materials. The molecular areas at water/air interface are derived from Gibbs’adsorption equations. The following conclusions are drawn from the results: 1) Span 20 is efficient in lowering the interfacial tension and effective in adsorption at the water/air interface, resulting in the low interfacial tension at critical micelle concentration (
) and a small molecular area(
), 2) when the hydrophiles of the surfactants are constant,
’s increase as hydrophobe carbon numbers of the surfactants increase, 3) when the hydrophobes are constant,
’s increase as the hydrophile ethylene oxide units increase, indicating effectiveness and efficiency is parallel in this case, 4) the ethylene oxide unit length as a hydrophile has greater influence on u than the hydrophobe chain length.han the hydrophobe chain length.gth.
Moisture Vapor Management Properties of Fabrics Determining Human Sensorial Comfort in Transient Conditions
;Roger L. Barker;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 24, issue 7, 2000, Pages 1073~1080
Moisture transfer property of fabrics has known as one of the most important factors deciding wearer's subjective comfort not only thermally but also of sensorial. As a decisive property of fabric materials in determining human sensorial comfort, moisture vapor management property of heat resistant workwear material was examined in terms of increasing and decreasing rate and maximum value of relative humidity in the microclimate under the sweat pulse situation. An unique moisture regulation index, B
, was calculated from the measurements using a novel dynamic sweating hot plate apparatus and was used to assess the buffering capacity of fabrics against a moisture vapor sweat pulse.e.
Analysis of Characteristics and Dyeing Properties of Gromwell Colorants(Part I) -Components and Characteristics of Gromwell Colorants-
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 24, issue 7, 2000, Pages 1081~1087
Gromwell colorants were extracted with methanol and dried. Four fractions were obtained by silica gel adsorption column chromatography using step-wise elution method. Relative ratio of four fraction is 1.00:0.07:0.22:0.30(Fl:F2:F3:F4) and gromwell colorants mainly consist of Fl, F3 and F4. IR analysis shows that each fraction has similar structure. Main component of gromwell extracts is acetyl derivative of naphthoquinone, and the rest are isobutyl derivative and isovaleryl derivative etc., in order. Gromwell colorants exhibit relatively good affinity to protein and polyamide fibers, but low affinity to cellulose and regenerated cellulose fibers.
Effect of the Fashion Therapy for the Psychiatric Patients(Part I)
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 24, issue 7, 2000, Pages 1088~1099
The purpose of this study was to investigate the effect on self-esteem and emotion of an improved self-appearance image among the female psychiatric patients, and the therapeutic effect of fashion therapy. The treatment intervention was provided for 37 psychiatric patients and the data of 17 participants was analyzed. The results were as follows: 1. The actual self-appearance image improved overall and all factors. Their expectation for the‘attractive’image was heightened. Their self-esteem was improved and negative emotions were reduced overall and depression. 2. The changes of the actual self-appearance had a positive correlation with self-esteem. and a negative correlation with negative emotion overall, especially anxiety, depression. Improvement of ‘attractive’image had the most correlation. 3. The changes of the ideal self-appearance image didn't have the correlation with self-esteem, but negative correlation with emotions overall and anxiety, depression and hostility. 4. The change in the incongruity of their ideal and actual self-appearance image overall had a negative correlation with the change of self-esteem and positive correlation with negative emotion, especially depression and hostility.