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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 25, Issue 9 - Dec 2001
Volume 25, Issue 10 - Dec 2001
Volume 25, Issue 8 - Oct 2001
Volume 25, Issue 7 - Sep 2001
Volume 25, Issue 6 - Aug 2001
Volume 25, Issue 5 - Jul 2001
Volume 25, Issue 4 - May 2001
Volume 25, Issue 3 - Mar 2001
Volume 25, Issue 2 - Feb 2001
Volume 25, Issue 1 - Jan 2001
Selecting the target year
A Study on Fibrillation of Tencel Material(Part I) -Based on Change of Properties of Tencel by Cellulase-
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 25, issue 3, 2001, Pages 507~515
Tencel is a high quality cellulosic fiber, which is controlled and processed by an environmentally sound route. But, the point about tencel and the reason why it achieves its unique touch in its finished state is that it is a fibrillating fiber. That means it can take a great deal of punishment during the finishing process, which raise the fiber to produce the characteristics handle, without destroying the cloth. The aim of cellulase treatment is to improve appearence of tencel, plus the fiber ends protruding from the fabric surface. But enzymatic hydrolysis can weakens the fiber ends and changes the properties of fabrics. This study examined about the changes of properties according to several conditions and effect of cellulase to fibril of tencel. The results are as follows. The weight loss was occurred, tensile strength was decreased, softness was increased. And cellulase treatment reduced amount of fibril.
Personal Color Types Classified by Skin and Hair Colors of College Students in Taegu and Kyungbuk Area
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 25, issue 3, 2001, Pages 516~524
This dissertation has been intented to grasp the components of personal colors and classify personal colors. The Method of the study was quasi-experimental. In the experiment to evaluate personal colors, the subjects was 315 male and female college students in Taegu and Kyungbuk area. The evaluations were analyzed by SAS and the methods used were descriptive statistics, cluster analysis, T-test. The results obtained were as follows: First, the major components of subjects personal colors were found to be the colors of skin and hair. Secondly personal colors were classified into three types: warm, cool, and ambiguous. Third types of personal colors tended to be different between men and women.
The Visual Effect in combination of Suit Details on Classic Style Suits-Middle Aged Womens Body Construct
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 25, issue 3, 2001, Pages 525~536
The purpose of this study is to evaluate the combination of suit details through visual evaluation which helps compensating middle aged womens body defects for their more attractive fashion styles. In this study, styles of the evaluated suits are formal and classical. The designs of evaluated suits are manipulated in 40 different kinds by the essential elements such as collars, necklines(tailored collars, soutien collars, stand collars, round necklines, V-necklines), bottoms(slacks, skirts), pocket(flap pocket, none) and opening(opened, closed). The data evaluated by a multiple ranking test were analyzed by mean, paired t-test, ANOVA and Duncans multiple raged test. The results are summarized as follows: 1) The classic style suits-middle aged womans body construct looks better when she is wearing it with the combination of suit details; opened tailored collar jacket with flap pocket or non-pocket, opened stand collar jacket with non-pocket, closed soutien collar and round neckline jacket with non-pocket, closed V-neckline jacket with flap pocket or non-pocket on slacks. 2) The middle aged woman wearing slacks looks smaller in upper body, longer in lower part of her body and taller as a whole than when wearing a skirt suit. And Opened jacket makes a middle aged woman be seen with less appeared abdomen than that on closed jacket. The stand calar and round neckline jacket with non-flap pockets makes her look smaller in upper body and hip. 3) With tailored, soutien, stand collar jacket, it looks slimmer in a neck, narrower in shoulder, smaller in upper body, and taller than on a round neckline and V-neckline jacket.
A Study on the Development of Fashion Sensibility
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 25, issue 3, 2001, Pages 537~547
The purpose of this study was to develop the measurement of the fashion sensibility. The stimulus were 91 photos selected in fashion magazines and had dominant visual power under detail, color, texture and pattern in the elements of fashion design. The semantic differential scale was constructed bipolar 25 pairs. The obtained data were analyzed by cluster analysis, factor analysis, ANOVA and t-test. The results were as follows; 1. The hierarchical structure was combined a natural and interesting, sensitive and lovely fashion sensibility. 2. The constructing factors of fashion sensibility were found out as aesthetic value, maturity, character and femininity·masculinity.(total variance: 55.7%) 3. Fashion sensibility by elements of fashion design was significantly different regarding all factors. 4. Fashion sensibility by demographic variables sex, age, marriage, education, occupation and expenditure was significantly different regarding partial factors.
Understanding the Construction of Chang-ui in the Middle Chosun Dynasty -Through the Process of Reconstructing Chang-ui Excavated from General Parks Tomb-
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 25, issue 3, 2001, Pages 548~559
This study is to understand Chang-ui construction of the middle Chosun Dynasty through the reconstruction of the blue Chang-ui which was excavated from General Parks tomb. The followings are the results of this study. There are 4 styles in excavated Chang-ui of middle Chosun Dynasty: Two styles seem to belong to the early 17th Century and the other, the late 17th century. The former is classified into 2 styles by the gender of the wearer, the latter is also classified into 2 styles by etiquette of clothing. We can assume that Chang-ui excavated from General Parks tomb was the womans clothing in early 17th century. This Chang-ui(II) differs from other Chang-ui(I) at two points. One is the construction of the trapezoid and triangle gussets on the side seam of clothing. The other is the construction of the narrow width of clothing(23cm). We have found that these two gussets could improve the active aspect of clothing and save materials. It is identified that the green tone was faded from the blue color of Chang-ui according to the calculation of the L*a*b.
A Study of stability in ratings for clothing and their woven fabrics
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 25, issue 3, 2001, Pages 560~568
The aim of the present study was to measure intra-individual consistency in clothing and fabric evaluation and to examine its relation to the ratings. A sample of 93 female and 97 male university students rated clothing of 4 styles of daytime wear and 2 fabrics on 15 pairs of polar adjectives twice in 7-days interval. Correlation coefficients between the two ratings for each subject, intra-individual consistency in the evaluation, ranged from -0.12 to 0.89 and mean coefficient was 0.63 of female and -0.01 to 0.78 and mean coefficient was 0.54 of male. Based on the coefficients, the subjects were classified into three groups: high, medium, and low intra-individual consistency. Analysis of variance of mean ratings by the three groups revealed that significant difference existed in 24% of female and 23% of male in 90 combinations of 6 clothing and 15 semantic differential scales. Female of subjects with high intra-individual consistency were most likely definite to evaluate clothing, whereas the ones with low were least. But male subjects were not definite. Mean correlation coefficients for style evaluation subscales of female was 0.39, but male was 0.44. Among the semantic differential scales, high stability in the two ratings was observed for the synthetic clothing evaluation. Correlation coefficients for each clothing obtained from the mean score of the subjects in each semantics differential scale were around 0.98, including that the mean scores of the subjects in each scale could yield excellent stability in clothing evaluation.
The Production of Microcapsules containing Cinnamon and Aromatic, Antimicrobial Finishing(Part I)
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 25, issue 3, 2001, Pages 569~576
The purpose of this study is to develop multifunctional fibers by sticking cinnamon microcapsules on cotton knit. The prepolymer was made from urea-formaldehyde for usage of wall materials of microcapsules. The parameters for adoptable condition are 5000rpm of agitation speed, 1% of dispersions concentration according to the observation with SEM and particle analyzer. The Antimicrobial activity of cotton knit treated with capsule was increased greatly and maintained on the laundering cycle.
Dyeing properties of cotton fabric with pomegranate colorants and antimicrobial properties
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 25, issue 3, 2001, Pages 577~585
Dyeing properties of the colorants extracted from pomegranate hull on cotton fabric were investigated. Effects of dyeing conditions and mordanting on dye uptake, color change and colorfastness were explored. Cationic agent treatment was done for cotton to improve low dyeability in natural dyeing. In addition antimicrobial activity of the cotton fabrics dyed with pomegranate colorants was examined by the shake flask method. Pomegranate colorants showed low affinity to cotton fiber and its adsorption isotherm was Freundlich type. Therefore, hydrogen bonding was involved in the adsorption of pomegranate colorants onto cotton fiber. Mordants did not significantly increase dye adsorption. Pomegranate colorants produced mainly yellow color on cotton fabric. In order to improve dye uptake, cotton was cationized by treating with Cationon UK(quarterly ammonium salt) and chitosan. The cationized cotton with Cationon UK showed higher dye uptake and shorter dyeing time, compared with the untreated cotton. Chitosan treated cotton also showed high dye uptake, but chitosan was less effective compared with Cationon UK. Fastness to washing, perspiration, and rubbing was not improved by mordanting and cationizing treatment, but light fastness was increased by all mordants and cationic agent. As dye concentration increased, bacterial reduction rate was increased and mordants did not significantly increase bacterial reduction rate.
The Effects of Consumers Psychological Characteristics on the Impulse Buying Behaviors of Apparels
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 25, issue 3, 2001, Pages 586~597
EThe purpose of this study was to investigate the relationships of consumers psychological characteristics, store types and impulse buying behaviors of apparels. We collected data from 469 consumers of women college student living in Pusan and analysed by factor analysis, frequency analysis, correlation analysis, t-test and
-test. The results were as follows: First, The sensation seeking tendency consisted of the Change seeking, Risk seeking, Artistic seeking, Curiosity seeking and Unusual seeking. The exploratory behavior of apparels were divided into six factors; Particularity exploration, Innovation exploration, Store exploration, Brand royalty exploration, interpersonal exploration and brand-seeking exploration. Second, In comparison with the unimpulse-buying group, the impulse-buying group intended more then Change seeking, when apparel explored, Particularity exploration, Innovation exploration and Brand exploration. Impulse-buying group preferred the department store, unimpulse-buying group did the specialty store.
The Antibacterial Activity and Deodorization of Textiles Dyed with Pomegranate Extract
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 25, issue 3, 2001, Pages 598~605
The study that has been conducted is the consideration of the durability of dye, antibacterial activity, and deodorizing effects of cotton and silk textiles dyed with a botanical dying material that has been used in various ways over the years as Korean diet and folk remedies, the pomegranate. 1. The results of the K/S value of dying according to the types of mordants of textiles dyed with pomegranate extract the following have been discovered: The increase of K/S value of dying of the silk textiles appear to be higher than that of the cotton textiles. Next, silk textiles that have been treated with FeSO
appear to be at the highest. 2. The results of the color change measurement show a difference of color can be noticed according to the types of mordant. As opposed to those textiles that had been only scured textiles, all of the dyed textiles appeared to turn yellow. 3. Textiles that had been treated with
O(sub)7 recorded the highest durability according to the colorfastness to light results. In the case of the cotton textiles colorfastness to washing, all appeared to show exceptional results of 3rd class or higher, excluding the textiles that had been treated FeSO
. However silk textiles recorded relatively low classes of below 3rd to 4th class. For the colorfastness to washing of pollution, the results for both the cotton and silk textiles were excellent at class 4-5. The results of colorfastness to perspiration, colorfastness to rubbing, and colorfastness to dry cleaning showed comparatively exceptional results of 3rd to 4th class or higher when it came to dyed textiles. 4. According to the measurements of antibiosis, dyed textiles that had been treated with SnCl
appeared to show an exceptional bacterium decrease of approximately 70%. 5. According to the deodorizing measurements, dyed silk textiles appeared to have a higher deodorizing effect than cotton textiles. As for cotton textiles, those that had been treated with FeSO
and in the case of dyed silk textiles those that had been treated SnCl
recorded the highest deodorizing effect.
The Preferred Clothing Images and Clothing Behaviors on Personality Types
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 25, issue 3, 2001, Pages 606~616
The purpose of this study was to investigate the preferred clothing images and clothing behaviors on personality types. Personality types were applied using Myers-Briggs Type Indicator(MBTI). Clothing image preferences were measured using 28 adjectives of 5-point scales. The data were collected from 101 female using questionnaire to prefer on clothing images, consumer information sources and retail store types. The data analysed with crosstab analysis, t-test, MDS. Extroversion and Introversion had significant difference in casual, sporty, fresh, youthful, western, and simple more than introversion types. Sensing and intuition had significant difference in feminine and strong image. Sensing types were significantly evaluated feminine style more than intuition types. Thinking types were significantly evaluated simple image more than feeling types. Judging and perceiving had significant difference in graceful, lofty, and strong image. Judging types were significantly evaluated graceful and lofty style more than perceiving types.
Effect of Storage Conditions on the Color and the Mechanical Properties of Fabrics dyed with Natural Dyes
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 25, issue 3, 2001, Pages 617~628
Cotton and silk fabrics dyed with brazilein(Caesalpinia Sappan), berberine (Phellodendron Amurense), and shikonin(Lithospermum Erythrorhizon) were stored in the air, in the water, and under the ground for about one year. The change of the color, the flexibility, and the breaking strength were measured at the intervals of few weeks. The results are as follows; 1. The color of the fabrics changed most extensively in the fabrics that were under the ground, then in the order of the ones that were in the water, and in the air. The color of the fabrics changed to the achromatic color over the time. 2. The flexibility change among the dyes was similar. All the fabrics became stiff under the ground and in the water over the storage time. 3. In general, cotton and silk fabrics dyed with berberine showed better strength retention than the fabrics dyed with other substances. 4. The strength retention of cotton fabrics was high in the order of the fabrics which were in the air, in the water, and under the ground. Only minuscule change occurred in the strength of the cotton fabrics. The strength of the fabrics that were in the water and under the ground decreased remarkably after 30 weeks and 20 weeks respectively. 5. The strength retention of silk fabrics was high in the order of the fabrics which were in the air, under the ground, and in the water. In the air, the strength on silk fabrics decreased rapidly after 30 weeks. In the water, the strength of silk fabrics decreased more rapidly than that of the cotton fabrics. Under the ground, the strength retention of silk was higher than that of cotton.
A Study on the Cultural Characteristics reflected on the Consumer Product Ads
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 25, issue 3, 2001, Pages 629~637
The objective of this study was to identify the cultural characteristics affecting advertising contents of the consumer products. Hofstedes(1991) five cultural characteristics such as individualism-collectivism, power distance, masculinity-feminity, avoidance of uncertainty, confucian dynamism were used. Ten kinds of consumer products were included and data were collected from France, Japan, Korea, and U. S. during 1999∼2000. All ads were evaluated and compared their cultural characteristics in terms of country, product involvement and usage, and magazine type. ANOVA, Duncan test, and Pearson correlation-coefficient were applied to analyze data. The results were shown as follows: First, most ads tended to be individual, less power oriented, feministic, and showed high tendency of uncertainty avoidance as well as long term confucianism for all the countries. And some cultural characteristics were different among countries. Japan, France, U. S. and Korea in order showed higher individualism and lower power distance. Also Korea and Japan showed relatively short term confucian culture while U. S. and France did ling term perspectives in the ads. Second, product involvement and usage type had a significant impact on the characteristics of individualism-collectivism and feminity-masculinity. That is, product ads of lower involvement and personal use were likely to show individualistic messages and to have more feministic appeals. Third, magazine type had an impact on some cultural characteristics. Womens magazines would have more individualistic, less power oriented, and feministic appeals of ads. In conclusion, global ads should be localized and differentiated in terms of some cultural characteristics and differ depending on product characteristics.
Clothing Purchase Behaviors of Patrons of Dongdaemun Market
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 25, issue 3, 2001, Pages 638~649
The purpose of the present study was to investigate the differences in clothing purchase behaviors among the patrons of Dongdaemun market grouped by clothing shopping orientation. A self-administered questionnaire survey was conducted among 600 men and women from ages 15-29 from August 9 to September 12, 1999; 548 were used for the data analysis. Based on the clothing buying orientation, the consumers of Dongdaemun market were divided into four groups: plan circumspected, economy-oriented, fashion-oriented and shopping-oriented. These groups showed significant differences in the selected criteria used for clothing purchase, the amount of money and time spent for shopping. The groups were also significantly different in the usage rate and perceived of the market, and the satisfaction levels with the shopping environments and services of the Dongdaemun Market. With regards to the satisfaction levels, they were showed significant different in the diversity and fashion statement of products, business hours, and advertisement/sales promotion in order. The fashion-oriented group was the highest satisfaction level about the four variables among groups.
A Guide to Select Muslin for Fitting
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 25, issue 3, 2001, Pages 650~661
The purpose of this study is to suggest a guidance to select proper muslin through investigating fabric characteristics. The structural and physical properties of muslin and top fabric samples were tested by KES-FB system and other testers. And in order to examine the relation between fabric characteristics and the shape of garments, wearing tests were done with jackets made of those samples. As a result, bending rigidity(B), bending hysteresis(2HB), shear stiffness(G), shear hysteresis at=0.5(2HG), shear hysteresis at=5(2HG5), stiffness, cloth count/5cm, weight, thickness were extracted as the key factors affecting the appearance of garments. To have similar appearance, all of these should be counted. After standardizing, we calculate the variance between top cloth and muslin. And from this we could get the range that the proper muslin should be included. The ranges were as follows: Bending rigidity(B): within 0.024g.
); Shear stiffness(G): within 2.21g/cm.degree(1.3
) Weight: within 9.33mg/
); Thickness: within 0.20mm(1.8