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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 26, Issue 12 - Dec 2002
Volume 26, Issue 11 - Nov 2002
Volume 26, Issue 9 - Sep 2002
Volume 26, Issue 10 - Sep 2002
Volume 26, Issue 8 - Aug 2002
Volume 26, Issue 7 - Jul 2002
Volume 26, Issue 6 - Jun 2002
Volume 26, Issue 5 - May 2002
Volume 26, Issue 3_4 - Mar 2002
Volume 26, Issue 2 - Feb 2002
Volume 26, Issue 1 - Jan 2002
Volume 26, Issue 3 - 00 2002
Selecting the target year
Characteristics of the Excavated Fabrics form ewongun's Tomb
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 26, issue 10, 2002, Pages 1390~1400
The purpose of this study is to categorize the type of fabrics and to analyze weaving method on the silk fabrics from ewongun's Tomb. The conclusions of this research are as follow. 1) Among the 26pieces of excavated clothes,98% of them were made of silk fabric and among them 84% used high-quality non-patterned silk I would assume, therefore, that the tomb was owned by a person who had a dignified yet humble tagte of higher society. 2) The weaving methods of textiles are plain weave, twil1 weave, satin weave. Plain weave includes spun silk tabby, fine filament silk tabby, raw silk tabby, thine silk tabby, damask on tabby, twill weave includes twill damask with different directions, satin weave includes non-patterned satin damask,5-end satin damask(4/1 warp faces ground, l/4 wok faced pattern). As the result of literature survey, I settled the names of textiles as follows; tabby was called Myunju, Saeju, Saengcho, and Sookcho according to the kind and density of silk threads used; Damask on tabby was ca]led Hwamunju) Twill damask was called Hwmunnung Satin damask was ca]led Hwamundan if they bear patterns by themselves or Mumundan if they don't have any patterns on them.
Dyeing of Cotton/Polyester Blends with Disperse Dyes and Crosslinking Agent - The Changes of Physical Properties and Colorfastness -
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 26, issue 10, 2002, Pages 1401~1411
To Save energy and cost one bath/one step dyeing and finishing on cotton/polyester blends is carried out with disperse dyes in the presence of crosslinking agent. Cotton 100 %, cotton/polyester 70/30, 50/50, 35/65, polyester 100 % fabrics were used. wrinkle recovery angle, tensile strength retention and tearing strength retention were determined in according to the dyebath composition, and also determined while the concentration of DMDHEU, molecular weight and concentration of PEG were varied. Colorfastness to abrasion, washing and light were tested. For cotton and cotton/polyester blends dyed in the presence of DMDHEU/PEG, wrinkle recovery was improved. Tensile strength retention and tearing strength retention were decreased, in compared with dyed fabrics without DMDHEU. Colorfastness to abrasion was good but colorfastness to washing and to light were poor for the fabrics dyed in the presence of DMDHEU/PEG.
A Study on the Visual Sensibility of Clothing Texture
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 26, issue 10, 2002, Pages 1412~1423
The purpose of this study is to objectively explain the visual sensibility of clothing torture that satisfies the consumer's sensibility. The photo stimuli on clothing texture are divided into hard, soft transparent and brilliant. For the study of image 38 kinds of costume samples is used. The Study was measured by using Semantic Differential method. The subjects were 410 females in twenties. The data were analyzed by factor analysis, ANOVA, MDS and regression analysis. Data were analyzed by SPSS. The major findings of this research were as follows: 1. As a result of the factor analysis,5 factors of visual sensibility were consist of high qualities, touches, looks, lightness, and warmness or coolness.2. There were significant difference in visual sensibility based on classification of clothing texture.3. The clothing texture was classified as thin-full, flat-lumpy. 4. As a result of the regression analysis, preferences of consumers can be connected directly with buying behavior and satisfaction can be closely related with preferences and positive buying behavior.
The Characteristic of Women's Veils in Chosun Dynasty Period - Focusing on the Museum Collection -
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 26, issue 10, 2002, Pages 1424~1435
This study is about women's veils from Chosen period housed in various museums and see how they reflect the escalating inequality between the two sexes based on Confucianism and its social ramifications including the strict rules that kept women from freely communicating or staying in same quarters with men from tender age. I first visited various museums to see what kind of veils they had in their collections and then looked at reproductions, museum catalogues, and other studies to get a better understanding of the designs, colors, and fabrics of the veils in each collection and came to following conclusions:. 1. I looked at 26 veils of 7 different sues both in person and in museum catalogues, and they included a Neouls,3 Myunsas, l2Jahngots,4 Chuneuis,1 Sahkgat 3Junmos, and 1 Garima. Various documents attest to the existence of one more style of veil,1. e. skirt-shaped veil, but there was no specimen of the type. 2. Museums had various types of veils for women, but most of them dated from late Chosun period. 3. Female veils in Chosun period had dearly-defined characteristics depending on their wearers. Each type had its own fabric color, and form, so one could tell the status of the wearer just by looking at it 4. The veils that I found at museums around the country had following characteristics: . Neoul was worn by high-class women and it covered up the face better than other types of veils. Myunsa was also caned Myunsapo, and it featured brilliant gold foils to mark the salted status of the wearer. Jahngot was originally a robe for both sexes but it turned into a type of veil for low-class females in late am period and there were more Jangots in museum collections than my other type of veils. Chuneui has various styles and it has a cotton lining so low-class women wore it to both cover the face and to stay worn Sahkgat was worn by low-class women for its convenience. Junmo was elaborately decorated and showy, and it was worn by courtesans. Garima was worn by courtesans or professional women in medicine, and unlike other type of veils, it showed the face of the wearer.
Dyeing of Cotton Knitting Fabrics with An inorganic substance -Centering around Loess and Mud-
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 26, issue 10, 2002, Pages 1436~1442
In this paper, the effect of the loess and mud of an inorganic substance dyed on cotton knitting fabrics have been studied The structure and chemical composition of loess and mud was analyzed. And the Far-Infrared emissivity and emission power, colorfastness, anti-bacterial properties cotton knitting fabrics dyed with loess and mud were also evaluated. The structure and chemical composion of loess and mud was almost identical structure and to be alike main components were SiO
. The cotton hitting fabrics dyed with loess and mud have good colorfastness and anti-bacterial properties. when the dyed fabrics was after-treated with diphenyl ether, the anti-bacterial property were improved. Far-Infrared emissivity and emission power cotton knitting fabrics dyed with loess and mud have very good.
Classification of Men's Somatotype According to Body Shape and Size(Part II) -Classification of Side View and Compound of Front and Side View-
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 26, issue 10, 2002, Pages 1443~1454
The purposes of this study were to classify body type of adult males into several kind of shape and to provide the characteristics of size of each group which has same shape. As the sample, subjects were 1290 males of 20 to 54 year-old. The procedure and results were follows; 1. As the result of the previous reserch, the front line of body was classified in X, H, Y and A types. 2. The principal component analysis was used to obtain the shape factor of the side line of the trunk. 9 factors in the side were extracted. As the result of the cluster analysis of factor scores, the side line of body was classified in 5 types. It was named X, A, Y and H type in the front and S, D1, d, I and D2 type in the side. 3. In order to consider the shape of body as a whole, the body shape of the front and side were compounded. The whole body shapes of adult male were very various, and 6 body shapes, XS, YS, Yd, YI, AD2 and HD1 were selected as the basic types. In each type of body, several groups were classified by size factor, height and chest girth and master size was selected considering appearance frequency.
Functionalism Expressed in American Fashion Design
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 26, issue 10, 2002, Pages 1455~1466
This research focuses on functionalism in American fashion designs which have become the center of public attention in recent. First, documentary studies about how functionalism, which originated in Europe in the beginning of the 20th century, has been developed throughout the 20th century were preceded Second, content analysis was done for the articles, including the word ‘unction’,‘utility’ and ‘practical’in the New York Times and American Vogue from January 1990 to January 2001. As a result, functionalism in 1990s has been developed in different ways from the mechanical, organic, and mea analogies of functionalism in the beginning of 20th century. It doesn't belong to an analogy but has the fused characteristics of those three analogies. It can be classified into techno functionalism influenced by new technology, pure functionalism related to minimalism, sports casual functionalism for those who are crazy about the speed and sports and enjoy the freedom and comfort, and symbolic functionalism which stresses Zen style. More casual manners of formal wear are distinct elements in functionalist fashion design in 1990s. It leads to strong expressions of sports casual functionalism, which plays a great role in sportswear industry of American fashion design. The American fashion designers who were mentioned often in the articles were Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, Ralph lauren and Tommy Hilfiger. As well as their works have common formative features based on functionalism, each of them shows his/her own strung color. A]1 of these designers make American fashion design, which can be defined as casual wear or sportswear, very popular worldwide based on the developed American functionalism. Functionalism considering practical and conceptional functions will continue in coming century and techno functionalism and sports casual functionalism in future fashion designs wilt be expressed more strongly with new technology and casual trends of life style.
Fitness and Physical Properties in Current Stretch Fabrics for Bottoms -Focused on the Tight Skirt-
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 26, issue 10, 2002, Pages 1467~1477
This study was investigated physical properties of stretch fabrics by KES-FB system to show suitable basic data to making skirts of excellent capacity and develop more organized basic skirt pattern by fitness evaluation. 1. The results of T. H. V.(Total Hand Value) were as followa: In the kind of blending fiber, cotton/spandex was more excellent than nylon/spandex and polyester/spandex, in the direction of stretch, one-way(weft inserted polyurethan yarn) polyester/spandex and cotton/spandex were higher than two-way(warp and wet inserted polyurethan yarn) polyester/spandes and cotton/spandex, two-way nylon/spandex was higher than one-way nylon/spandex. 2. The results of calculating the variance between sample stretch fabrics and Japanese s/s women's suit fabrics after standardizing were as follows: Stretch fabrics has 2 range of tensile, bending, shearing, compression, surface, thickness and weight as compared with Jpanese s/s women's suit fabrics. In the tensile property, one-way stretch fabrics were almost the same with Japanese s/s women's suit fabrics, only two-way polyester/spandex had+1～+2 range. In the bending, shear property, there was no difference between sample fabrics and Japanese s/s women's suit fabrics 3. In the total fitness of the skirt, nylon/spandex is the best in the fabrics and one-way stretch fabric is better than two-way strethch fabric.