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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 27, Issue 12 - Dec 2003
Volume 27, Issue 11 - Nov 2003
Volume 27, Issue 9_10 - Sep 2003
Volume 27, Issue 8 - Aug 2003
Volume 27, Issue 7 - Jul 2003
Volume 27, Issue 6 - Jun 2003
Volume 27, Issue 5 - May 2003
Volume 27, Issue 3_4 - Apr 2003
Volume 27, Issue 2 - Feb 2003
Volume 27, Issue 1 - Jan 2003
Volume 27, Issue 9 - 00 2003
Volume 27, Issue 3 - 00 2003
Selecting the target year
Customer Satisfaction and Relationship Marketing according to Service Quality of Men's Character Casual Clothing Brand Stores
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 27, issue 11, 2003, Pages 1179~1189
This study had a focus on service quality, customer satisfaction and relationship orientation. The subjects of this study were: 1) to examine the conceptual structure of service quality perceived by males consumers of character clothing brands, 2) to examine of the service quality on customer satisfaction, and 3)to examine relationship between customer satisfaction and relationship orientation. The questionnaire was collected between October, 28 and November, 8 in 2002. Samples of 271 respondents were obtained. The sample consisted of males in their twenties and thirties who had a experience on buying character clothing brands in Seoul. To analyze the data, reliability analysis, percentage, frequency analysis, factor analysis, correlation analysis, and regression analysis were applied. The results were as followings: 1) As a result of factor analysis, the service quality were identified by four dimensions: environmental service, personal service, products service, and promotion service. 2) As a result of correlation analysis and regression analysis, the service quality had a positive influence on customer satisfaction. Especially products service was the most important factor for customer satisfaction, followed by environmental service. 3) As a result of correlation analysis, customer satisfaction had a positive influence on relationship orientation.
A comparison of women's pattern between the Bunka and the Secoli
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 27, issue 11, 2003, Pages 1190~1197
The purpose of this study is to compare and analyze methods of women's apparel prototypes and provide for some useful fundamental data to improve the apparel prototype suitable for Korean women. Two different drafting methods, the Bunka pattern of Japan Bunka Women's University and the Secoli pattern of Italy istituto carlo secoli, an italian pattern drafting institute, were selected. The result and discussion are as follows; In the calculation formula, the Bunka was shown more comfort at arm-hole part, because of it's lower arm-hole depth, wider arm-hole width and lower cap height in comparison with the Secoli. At the shoulder angle, the Bunka is inclined more in front shoulder than the back shoulder, whereas the Secoli is inclined more in back shoulder than the front shoulder. It could explain that the Bunka is suitable for bendforward type and the Secoli is suitable for lean-back type. In the sensory test, the one-piece pattern of the Secoli with 4cm ease was highly estimated in ease. It seems young women's preference to body conscious clothes which reflected in many new elastic fabrics. At the bust point to neck, the Bunka was highly estimated, compared with the Secoli. It seems like to be caused that for the bust point to neck formula, the Bunka used bust girth, the Secoli used stature which has low correlation with the bust point to neck.
Customized Necktie Design According to Man's Body Characteristics (part I) -Focused on the Length of Necktie-
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 27, issue 11, 2003, Pages 1198~1207
The purpose of this study was to develop customized necktie design according to Korean adult male's body characteristics. For this purpose, experimentations of visual sensory evaluation on visual stimuli which show a man's wearing various neckties were carried out. The subjects were students(n=130) majoring in fashion and design related area and experts(n=6). The data were analyzed by ANOVA, duncan test, pearson's correlation coefficient, cross tabulation using spss pc/sup +/ program. Also statistic of Korea adult men's body measurements(1997) were analyzed and used to decide appropriate necktie length according to the customer's various height. The results were as follows: First, there were significant difference in visual sensibility on the stimuli showing 1) relative location of belt and necktie, 2) neckties with various length using golden ratio to the experimental model's height. Therefore, the need of producing neckties with different length according to customer's various height were verified. Second, neckties with three different length(140cm, 145cm, 151cm) were suggested for the groups of 160cm-height, 170cm-height, 180cm-height according to Korean adult male's body characteristics and aspect of production.
The Diabolism Expression in Fashion Illustration
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 27, issue 11, 2003, Pages 1208~1218
The purpose of this study is to examine the expressional characteristics and effects of Diabolism image that appeared in fashion illustration. The concept of evil from ancient times is arranged with more basic pain, unhappiness, breakdown, fear, ignorance, sadness, imperfection, death, disease, and ugliness than it can be understandable in modern society. However, as the concept of evil is included in sacred ground of art and is begun to understand by the ugliness of broad sense, the evil and ugliness were recognized as subordinate concepts which fertilizing beauty. Also, image characteristics of Diabolism in pop culture are taking charge roles that remove visual discordance to decadent and mysterious beauty and trying to find new beauty by presentation of bad-tasted style. The aesthetic and expressional characteristics of Diabolism in modem visual media have something in common which is classified into five shapes: Negative image, Symbolic line and color, Transformation, Devilish shape, and Fantastic image. The Diabolism expressions in fashion illustration since 1980 show the possibility of image expression as a new technical field because they differ from existing expression methods and viewpoints of beauty. Therefore, the practical use of devilish image to express excessive aesthetic sense can expand the extent of image expression.
Globalization Trends of Korean Fashion Enterprises
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 27, issue 11, 2003, Pages 1219~1228
This research was conducted to find out what the general globalization trends of Korean fashion enterprises are, and what the factors required the Korean fashion enterprises to improve the global competitiveness under the globalized circumstances are. The data were collected from the survey by questionnaire on Korean leading fashion enterprises and the Directory of Companies Branching out abroad in 2000/2001(Korea Trade-Investment Promotion Agency, 2000). The Results of the research are as follows: first, Korean fashion enterprises expanded evenly worldwide in the sales and distribution functions while relying heavily on Asian countries for manufacturing functions; Secondly, the globalization of Korean leading fashion enterprises was progressed, but still remains at the stage of the sales of manufacturing capability or the sales of low costs products rather than at the stage of manufacturing products of high added-value or the sales of design or marketing capability. Thirdly, the factors for the global competitiveness of the Korean fashion enterprises are related to capability of low cost, quick response, product development, marketing, internationalization and high value added.
A Study of Cyberfeminism in fashion in the digital era -Focused on cybersubculture style (Part I)-
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 27, issue 11, 2003, Pages 1229~1240
The purpose of this study was to review such results of the scientific and technological development as women's changed status, sexual identity and their views of physique in the cyber space based on cyber feminists' theories, and thereby, examine the concept of space during the medieval age, and then, the fundamental spiritual concept involving the fetishism of women's body as sexual objects in the materialistic space of the digital age in terms of the consciousness of trend or supra-sensual perceptions, and thereby, review the effect of the cyber terrorism and violence on the fashion in sub-cultural terms. Some researchers distinguish psychedelic styles from cyberdelic ones to assume such psychiatric visions as psychedelic fashion characterized by resistance and delinquency-cyber punk fashion, cyber hippie fashion, cyborg fashion- and then, define them all as cyber resistant culture fashion or as a sub-cultural style of the cyber culture. As a result, it was found that human bodies are being encoded with the networks, various cyber characters or avatars are emerging, while human bodies are being distorted or exaggerated with human beings and machines being imploded.
The Effects of Variables on Fashion Luxury Brand Purchasing Behavior
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 27, issue 11, 2003, Pages 1241~1251
The purpose of this study was to examine fashion luxury brand purchasing behavior among young women, and to find variables which influenced on their behavior. 993 women living in Seoul and its suburb were surveyed for this study. For data analysis, descriptive statistics, factor analysis, ANOVA, and regression were used for this study. As the result, approximately 66.3% of respondents had purchased fashion luxury products before such as Burburry, DKNY, and Louis Vuitton. Generally, the frequencies of purchasing toward the luxury products were associated with materialism, conspicious consumption, reference group influence, and ethnocentrism. Also, results revealed that materialism and conspicuous consumption accounted for 43% of the explained variance in the frequency of purchasing products. Based on these results, fashion marketing strategies would be suggested.
Antimicrobial Activity and Physical Properties of Acrylic Acid Grafted Cotton Kintted Fabrics added with Chitosan
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 27, issue 11, 2003, Pages 1252~1259
The purpose of this study is to develop multi-functional fabrics by chitosan added on acrylic acid grafted cotton kintted fabrics. Therefore physical properties such as antimicrobial activity, deodorization rate, moisture regain, whiteness, and tensile strength of chitosan added on acrylic acid grafted cotton kintted fabrics were investigated. The results are as follows; According to increased chitosan's concentration, grafting yield was decreased. Therefore thickness of film by treated chitosan added on acrylic acid grafted cotton kintted fabric became thin. FT-IR spectra of chitosan add on acrylic acid grafted cotton kintted fabric clearly showed peaks of COOH and NH
. Antimicrobial activity and deodorization rate of chitosan add on acrylic acid grafted cotton kintted fabrics were increased greatly than untreated. And their durability of laundry were good, Moisture regain of treated fabrics was higher than untreated. Whiteness and tensile strength of treated fabrics were lower than untreated.
The Formal Suit Design for Visual Effect of Mid-Aged Men's Shape (Part II)
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 27, issue 11, 2003, Pages 1260~1269
This paper endeavors to examine the most suitable formal dress design for mid-aged men who lives in Kwangju, the Republic of Korea. Visual effect in associate design is considered with adjustment, figured and the body type. There are partly similarity differences in associate design visual effect by one's shape and clothes design. Firstly, in thin type, striped figured suit is the most attractive. Single adjustment suit with striped figured tend to be attractive, young and modernistic. Single adjustment without figured is felt the mellowest. Secondly, in standard type, the suit without figured is perceived the most attractive and masculine. The suit with striped figured is looked more young. Single adjustment suit without figured is the most attractive and mellow also single adjustment with figured is felt the youngest. Double adjustment without figured is felt mellow and with striped figured is felt the most modernistic and familiar. Also double adjustment suit with check figured is felt more modernistic. Thirdly, in pyknic type, the solid figured and striped figured of the suits are felt more masculine and single without figured is thought attractive. Single adjustment with check figured is common image. Also, double adjustment with stripe figured is perceived attractive. In conclusion, the adjustment, number of button and figure are very important facts for the clothes for giving whole visual effect of men's suit
The Effect of Customer Orientation of Department Store Salespeople on Customer Satisfaction: Salespeople versus Customer Perspectives
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 27, issue 11, 2003, Pages 1270~1278
The purposes of this study were to compare the perspectives of salespeople and of customers on the perception of salespeople's customer orientation and to examine the effects of the customer orientation on customer satisfaction and in turn on store revisit intention. Data were obtained from the two groups of department store salespeople and their customers. A total of 300 pairs of questionnaires were distributed, and 224 pairs were analyzed. The results revealed that the salespeople's perception of the customer orientation was significantly higher than the customer's perception. The customer orientation affected the customer satisfaction with salesperson and with store while the sales orientation did not. The customer satisfaction, in turn, affected the store revisit intention, and the effect of the satisfaction with store was higher than that with salesperson. A slight difference between the customers and salespeople in such effects was observed. Generally the effects had higher predictabilities for the customers.
A Study of Terminology Describing Subjective Hand of Fabrics
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 27, issue 11, 2003, Pages 1279~1290
The purpose of this study was to make a scale for measuring the subjective hand of fabrics. For this purpose subjective hand expressions which were published in the journals were reviewed. 11 pairs(9 biopolar-pairs, 2 unipolar-pairs) were selected after searching the definitions in a dictionary followed by focus group interview and survey. To find out if these terminological biopolar pairs are agreed with the biopolar pairs in human sensation, a survey of fabric hand was undertaken using a scale consisted of 20 words(18 words from biopolar-pairs, 2 words from unipolar pairs). Among 11 pairs, 10 pairs except [taktakhada-poksinhada] were accepted as biopolar pair of word terminologically and sensuously. [taktakhada-poksinhada] was recognized as a biopolar pair terminologically but not sensuously. These 20 words were classified as 5 factors-surface contour, density, flexibility, dampness, and extensibility
Fatigue and Sensorial Properties of Commercially Available Brassiere Wing Materials
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 27, issue 11, 2003, Pages 1291~1299
In order to design the better brassiere in terms of appearance and functions, various parameters of the materials should be considered; in this study, fatigue properties and subjective sensation of wing materials and its relation to the preference for a brassiere was investigated. After the survey of commercially available products, five elastic fabrics such as cotton, Modal, polyester, nylon, and Tactel, all of which contain 10% polyurethane, were chosen as specimens. Fabric growth were determined to evaluate fatigue properties. Qmax was determined to evaluate the warm-cool feeling. For the sensory test, semantic differential scale which contains 15 adjectives were developed. Fatigue properties were very similar at the 20% elongation irrespective of the duration of tension, but at 40% and 100% elongation, man made fabric showed less growth than cellulose fabrics. The factor analysis showed four factors such as sense of warmth, smoothness, weight and elasticity. Preference of the specimens was ranked in the order of Tactel>Modal>cotton>nylon>polyester.
Effect of the changes in Micropore Structure on the Dyeability of BTCA Finished Cotton Fibers
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 27, issue 11, 2003, Pages 1300~1306
Cotton fibers were treated, with 1, 2, 3, 4-butanetetracarboxylic acid (BTCA) which is formaldehyde-free reagent to impart durable press performance. The dyeability, dyeing rate, and diffusion coefficient, of BTCA treated cottons were compared to prove the changes of pore size structure using direct dyes and disperse dyes. Diffusion coefficients of BTCA treated cotton fibers were determined at acidic conditions to figure out the effect of swelling. Since the dyeability of BTCA treated cotton fibers dyed with direct dyes were reduced, it is considered that the dyeability to direct dyes is related to the quantity of residual large pores. But, the dyeability to disperse dyes were increased due to the less reduction of small pore sizes and the increase of hydrophobicity in BTCA treated cotton cellulose. The dyeability to direct dye and disperse dye were decreased more at acidic conditions than at neutral conditions. It seemed that the swelling of pores in the fiber were inhibited.
A Study on the Consumer Knowledge Measurement of Apparel Product
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 27, issue 11, 2003, Pages 1307~1317
The level of consumer knowledge has been gradually increased with the growth of living standard of consumer and the development of communication technology. The purpose of this study was to investigate the structure and measure of consumer knowledge and to find out relationship between objective knowledge and subjective knowledge. The subjects of this study were female adults from theirs twenties to theirs forties who lived in Seoul, Kyunggi or Incheon areas and Quota sampling method was used age and areas. The data were obtained from 603 questionnaires. Data were statistically analyzed using SPSS 10 and major statistical methods are mean, frequency, Pearson correlation coefficient, and Cronbach's
coefficient. The results are as follows: 1. Objective knowledge consisted of the product knowledge, brand knowledge, purchase knowledge and usage knowledge, and subjective knowledge consisted of experience and self-evaluation knowledge. 2. Consumer knowledge was related to the subjective knowledge and objective knowledge. But, there was relatively a low relationship between subjective knowledge and objective knowledge of apparel.
Texture Image and Preference of Men's Wool/Wool blend Suit Fabrics
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 27, issue 11, 2003, Pages 1318~1329
The purpose of this study was to examine the effects of the structural characteristics of men's suit fabrics on the texture image and the preference, and to analyze the relationship between the preference and the practical sales ratio. In addition, the texture images and the preference of fabric and jackets made of the same fabrics were compared. As specimen, jackets for men's suit of 2002' S/S and their fabrics were collected. Questionnaires composed of 22 sensibility related and 21 fabric image related adjectives were developed. For the subjective evaluation of the texture image, both jackets and fabric samples were tested. Tests were performed with 100 female subjects in clothing department and apparel industry. For the objective evaluation, structural characteristics such as fiber contents, yarn twist, fabric count, thickness and weight were analyzed. Total Hand Value were calculated from mechanical properties determined by the KES-FB system. Factor analysis showed sensibilities were classified into 6 categories; "surface roughness", "weight", "density", "stiffness", "elasticity" and "wetness". Fabric images were classified into 4 categories; "classic", "original", "practical", and "stuffy". Depending on the method to show the specimen to the subjects, whether it is suit or fabric, statistically significant differences were observed with a number of adjectives for sensibilities and fabric images. The results of THV of KES did not agree with the preference of subjects, which suggests that we should be careful when using the KES system, which was developed for Japanese people. Price was considered to be another factor besides the texture image that influenced on purchase.
Study on the Characteristics of the Shaman Costume Symbolized in Mangjachoendo gut -Using the Comparison Between Jindo Sitggimgut and Seoul Jinoggi Gut
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 27, issue 11, 2003, Pages 1330~1337
According to the way of expression and the ritual procedure, there is a difference in the costume between Jinoggigut in Seoul and Sitggimgut, hereditary dance in the southern part of Joella province. Even though they share the same story, which is to soothe the spirit of the deceased and to listen to the grudge of the remained, the two shaman rituals are slightly different in their costumes. And the characteristics of the costume in Seoul Jinoggigut, and Jindo Sitggimgut are as follows; First, both in Seoul Jinoggigut, a spiritual dance and Jindo Sitggimgut, a hereditary dance, the universal roles of shaman costume, which are generally shown in "gut", are found-build a sacred environment, prepare for the experience of the spiritual world, listen to the grudge of the deceased and wish for God's bless. Second, the shaman costume has a special role to express specific and complex symbols-representing God on one hand, symbolizing the dead on the other. Third, unique symbols are found in the costume of Mangjachoendogut with the formality of the ritual procedure.
Clustering of Skin Colors on Korean Adult Males and Their Preference Colors
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 27, issue 11, 2003, Pages 1338~1349
The color of apparels has the close interdependency on the skin colors of the wearers. This study was carried out to group the skin colors of Korean males into several similar skin colors and to analyze their preference colors. The skin colors were measured quantitatively and classified into several clusters that has similar hue, value and chroma with Munsell color system that is internationally used to communicate the colors. Sample size was 420 Korean males. With color spectrometer, JX-777, 4 points of the body were measured. All subjects had been shown with 40 color chips and answered their preference colors. Data were analysed by K-means Cluster analysis, Duncan test, Frequency and Chi square test using SPSS WIN 10 statistical package. Findings were as follows: 1. The skin colors of Korean males were mixed with skin colors of YR, R, and Y. 2. 420 subjects who have YR color were clustered in 3 kinds of skin color groups. 3. The average face color of total subjects was 4.81YR 5.91/4.97 in Munsell color system, 60.74 in L value, 13.71 in a value, 24.54 in b value. 136 observations out of 420 subjects were composed of Type 1: 4.50YR 6.35/4.87 and 192 observations were composed of Type 2: 4.62YR 5.86/5.12 and 92 observations were composed of Type 3: 5.67YR 5.37/4.79. 4. The average skin color of total 420 subjects was 6.26YR 6.07/4.41 and 62.33 in L value, 10.64 in a value, 23.48 in b value. The average skin color of Type 1 was 6.27YR 6.44/4.27 and of Type 2 was 6.15YR 5.91/4.49 and of Type 3 was 6.49YR 5.84/4.43 respectively. 5. 3 groups showed that the most preference color of sport
casual was 2.5Y 8/16 and 7.5PB 4/16 and the most preference color to their skins was 7.5PB 4/16 and 7.5YR 7/16.
Separation of Chromophoric Substance from Madder Plant under Different Extraction and Analytical Conditions
;S. Kay Obendorf;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 27, issue 11, 2003, Pages 1350~1357
This research was aimed to establish the standard extraction and analytical procedures for examining the chromophoric substance in madder root with the ultimate goal of identifying the dyes in badly faded textiles of archaeological origin. The separation temperature of gas chromatography, pH and other extraction conditions were tested. The results were as follows: The suitable separation temperature for the GC cappillary column was 50∼305
, and methanol was a good GC solvent for both standard alizarin and madder extraction. The best extraction of madder was achieved by 90 min soaking in room temperature followed by filtration and the actual heat extraction procedure. The best pH for extracting alizarin was pH 3 and above pH 5 alizarin was not detectible. Only alizarin and no purpurin was found in the extraction of the currently used madder plant.