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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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Journal DOI :
The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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Volume & Issues
Volume 28, Issue 12 - Dec 2004
Volume 28, Issue 11 - Nov 2004
Volume 28, Issue 910 - Oct 2004
Volume 28, Issue 8 - Aug 2004
Volume 28, Issue 7 - Jul 2004
Volume 28, Issue 6 - Jun 2004
Volume 28, Issue 5 - May 2004
Volume 28, Issue 3_4 - Mar 2004
Volume 28, Issue 2 - Feb 2004
Volume 28, Issue 1 - Jan 2004
Volume 28, Issue 3 - 00 2004
Selecting the target year
A Cultural Product Design Development of Korean Image by the Use of Fabric Materials
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 28, issue 11, 2004, Pages 1353~1360
The purpose of this study is to develop a cultural products design of korean image using fabrics. The study is carry out in literature research methods and make sample product. We examine existing researches about cultural product design development to understand developed items, materials, and design directions. The brainstorming method and the established literature researches were used to obtain the design components of Korean image. A cultural products design was developed into the decorative structural details. The results can be summarized as follows: Korean image is pure, passive, gentle, small, and lasting life-force at weeds and wild flowers. Korean form is rounded curve and soft silhouette as streamy, not exaggerate. Korean color is not a finishing treatment, non-dyed natural color, or pastel, light greyish, and dull tone. Korean textile is a natural materials as linen, ramie, and coarse silk. Final sample products are table supplies, home goods and bed goods applying the sewing method of tuck, quilting, top-stitching, patch work, applique and embroidery.
A Study on the Body Types of Chinese Adult Women (Part ll) -With the Focus on the Comparison of the Women Residing in Beijing and Shanghai by the Age Range-
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 28, issue 11, 2004, Pages 1361~1371
This was a follow-up study to the 'Study on the Body Types of Chinese Adult Women I,' which looked into the body types and classified them into representative body type groups, with the subjects of the women residing in Beijing and Shanghai, and it intends to compare the features of the body types by the residential area of each age range. The results were as follows: 1. The measurements physical items of the women residing in Beijing and Shanghai were compared by the age range, and differences were found in all age ranges. In particular, as the age ranges got higher, the differences in the physical measurements were significant. 2. The comparison of the factor score for the women residing in Beijing and Shanghai by the age range indicated the differences in all the age ranges, and the differences were larger as the age got higher. 3. The comparison of the type distribution for the women residing in Beijing and Shanghai by the age range indicated the differences in their 30's and 40's, while any differences in the type distribution were not found in their 20's.
Make-Up Purchase Behavior and Influential Factors -Focusing on Clothing Involvement, Age, and Face Satisfaction-
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 28, issue 11, 2004, Pages 1372~1383
The purpose of this study was to analyze the differences in cosmetic purchase behavior according to clothing involvement, age, and face satisfaction. Subjects of this study were the females in Seoul and Kyonggi, who were 20's and 40
50's. Questionnaire was used as major method of gathering data. The data were collected from Sep. to Oct., 2003 and analyzed by using SPSS 10.0 with various techniques such as the factor analysis, reliability analysis, mean, percentage, cluster analysis, ANOYA, Duncan test, t-test. Cronbach's
-test. The results of this study were as follows: 1. The cosmetic purchase behaviors were categorized in 4 different factors by the factor analysis;'fashion pursuit' purchase, 'conspicuous pursuit' purchase, 'brand pursuit' purchase and 'rational pursuit' purchase. 2. The consumers were classified into four groups by clothing involvement; 'high clothing involvement' group, 'low fashion involvement' group, 'middle clothing involvement' group and 'low clothing involvement' group. 3.'High clothing involvement' group was the highest in 'fashion pursuit' and 'conspicuous pursuit' purchase factors, 'Low fashion involvement' group was the lowest in 'fashion pursuit' purchase factor. Conclusionally, 'fashion pursuit' and 'conspicuous pursuit' purchase behaviors were setting more aggressive as clothing involvement was getting higher. 4. The differences in cosmetic purchase behavior according to the age revealed that 40'
50s' basic cosmetic purchase behavior was more 'brand pursuit' oriented than 20's. 5. The result of differences in cosmetics purchase behavior according to the face satisfaction was no noticeable difference.
A Study on the Functional Improvement of 119 Rescue Uniforms
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 28, issue 11, 2004, Pages 1384~1394
The purposes of this study were to investigate the current performance of 119 rescue uniforms and to improve them in terms of fitness, mobility, functionality, and convenience. This study was conducted a questionnaire survey on rescuers in 22 rescue squads in Seoul through direct. observations and face-to-face interviews to investigate the dissatisfaction of their uniforms. According to the results of this survey, respondents were highly dissatisfied with the fitness of uniforms, design, and functionality. liking into consideration of the problems found through this survey, an experimental uniform was developed as follows. The girth and width of the experimental uniform were designed to be more ample than the current uniforms and the jacket could be worn over pants. And the size and the number of pockets were increased in both the Jacket and trousers. In addition, the hems of the sleeves and trousers as well as the fly front of the jacket were improved. Furthermore, darts were added to the front and back of the knees to improve knee movement. Then an experimental uniform was evaluated through three sequences of wearing tests to compare it with the current uniforms: the evaluation of the appearance, mobility. and performance at field activity. According to these tests, the experimental uniform was found to be more satisfactory than former one.
The Study of Exposure and Concealment in Fashion - Focusing on the Freud's Psychoanalysis -
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 28, issue 11, 2004, Pages 1395~1403
Exposure and Concealment have been continued as important way to express fashion and theme as well, especially in women fashion. Exposure can make themselves attractive, and concealment emphasizes this way of being attractive by exposure. Besides the temptable effect of exposure, the ideology which put women next men in society has made a prominence on the fact exposure is significant theme in women fashion. It means that women's image of 'Being seen as Object' (this can be explained by relation passive between active) in society has driven female emphasize in using and focusing on exposure to be attractive. Also the other important thing in women fashion has been considered is concealment. The fact that society has demand women more chaste duty in detail may have meaningful thing in the condition that instigates women take off being attractive to the subject, considering ideology, men. Therefore attractive femininity has to be suggested by virtue and temptation, it is common sense that looking just shallow or too strict are far from criteria of ideal beauty. Namely, the concept for exposure coexists with concealment not only constructively but also naturally in fashion. Technique that can be accentuate for effective exposure differently from method to show unilaterally is needed, and this technique can promote new fashion. And according to the theory of Freud, women means' Absence (lacking penis)', this female's Lack Image induces male castration complex therefore 'Fetishistic Look' which transfers something phallic into specific things or parts of body is adopted, sort of object cathexis. This is revealed as some parts of women body are diverted into object for sexual love, symbolic equivalent. For example, women's parts like legs or breast are remarked as erotogenic zone and as time goes, when no more the zone are felt sexual by exposure, other somewhere felt mysterious (felt something sexual) used to be stressed by exposing. As it were, it can be possible that exposing part on women body (sexual part) moved as time passed because of what previously stated. Especially, the concept of exposure and concealment in women fashion should explain not only from a point of view of style for the beautifulness but also from wearer's immanent intention, further more relationship with ideology. About the present situation becoming bolder in women fashion, it is said that women express confidence as the position of women is elevated higher socially, the more women get freedom. But if we consider this psychoanalysis opinion mentioned ahead, the possibility can not be excluded that the exposure can get emphasizing according as the need of feminine modesty gets decreasing from ideal femininity society, men want. This study about exposure and concealment was made progressed through the theory of Freud who originated psychoanalysis, presented many theories. But nowadays contradictions are being brought up against Freud's theory including conventional philosophy like male chauvinism and adjust studies get suggested. Hereupon, there may be limitation in making no allowance of contradiction and following his theory.
A Study on the Stereotype of Hair Style, Shoes and Ornaments Manifested by University Student
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 28, issue 11, 2004, Pages 1404~1414
This study examines how the stereotype in a society toward the roles of teachers and students affects their hair styles and ornaments and defines it through the cultural tag, 'like'. A survey of 362 male and female students in colleges located in Seoul and Gyeonggi areas was conducted. The data analysis was done by SPSS 10.0 and the difference of sample means between the groups in addition to basic statistics was evaluated. The t-test was made to test statistically significant difference between the groups. The results of the analysis are summarized as follows: First, the hair styles, shoes and ornaments that are recognized as appropriate for the roles of male students are short cut and black hair, sneakers and necktie. In that case of female students, medium and long hair style, black and brown hair, Loafer, hairpin and hairband are recognized properly. The hair styles, shoes and ornaments that are recognized as appropriate for the roles of male teachers are short cut and black hair, oxfords and necktie. In that case of female teachers, cut, medium, long, permanent and up style, 1)lack and brown hair, pumps, necklace, ring, earring, bracelet, hairpin, hairband, scarf and muffler are recognized appropriately. Second, the stereotype of male students and teachers's roles was more traditional, normative, and limited than that of female students and teachers's. The role of female teachers showed more generous than that of male students, female students, and male teachers.
The Expression of Metonymy in Fashion Illustration
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 28, issue 11, 2004, Pages 1415~1425
The purpose of this study was to analyze a theoretical frame of expressional area, the characteristics and the effects which is applied to fashion illustration by metonymic theory. The theoretical frame of expressional area was analyzed by category analysis and 150 fashion illustrations from 1900 to 1999 were analyzed by contents analysis. The results of this study were as follows: The expressions of metonymy were categorized by close-up, realistic expression, omission, borrowing of past style, simplification and deconstruction. First, close-up was presented as emphasis of small part of fashion by cutting the scenes, snapshot, emphasis, etc. Second, realistic expression was presented as description of related circumstance with fashion message through perspective and realistic description of circumstance related to figures. Third, omission was presented as seeking of essential core by removing color, pattern, texture or by omitting body and as emphasis of communication about dominant fashion message. Fourth, borrowing of past style was presented as reminding us of background of the past. Fifth, simplification was presented as using of form or color to alleviate tension of object and to restore the essential reality. Sixth, deconstruction was presented as fragmenting of image, flattening of body and clothing, weakness of form, and strength of color. In conclusion, metonymy made by experience system of thinking based on the reality, have extended expressional territory in pre-existing fashion illustration. And these ways not only will provide fashion image as illustrator's subjective intention and theoretical system of expression of message, but also will be useful way to strengthen communication for easier interpretation of fashion illustration.
A Study on Torso Shape Classification of Women in 60s
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 28, issue 11, 2004, Pages 1426~1437
The study has an objective of providing the basic data for the bodice basic pattern that is highly appropriate after classifying the torso shapes of women in 60s. In order to classify the torso shape, 200 women in 60s that reside in Seoul were investigated for 52 tests. The factor analysis produced total of 6 factors. Factor 1 tended to be posture of upper part of torso and shape of shoulder. Factor 2 was an element of silhouette and Factor 3 was vertical size of lower part of torso and side silhouette. Factor 4 showed to be width and thickness of torso, Factor 5 was shape of neck, and Factor 6 appeared to be sagging of belly and buttocks. Therefore, it can be known that posture, silhouette, shape of neck and shoulder, sagging of belly and buttocks, and etc. are important factors for classification of the torso shape of women in 60s. Through a cluster analysis, each torso shape was classified into 4 types and each type showed information on size, shape, and posture clearly. Type 1 showed percentage of 24.2%, and values of height and weight showed to be average. Also, the body shape hardly had any curve with high shoulder at the Posture of upper body, and they had saggy stomach and buttocks. 43.5% of them were involved in Type 2 and they were short and overweighted. They were comparatively large in width compared to the height with no curves. Type 2 had the largest percentage and this can be said to be the special shape of women in 60s. People of Type 3 were short and overweighted just like Type 2 and all the sizes were similar to those of Type 2 or bigger. The posture is right posture and 21.7％ fall into this type and there is no body curve. This type is the shortest and most overweighted type, and it is a torso shape with right posture just like Type 4. Type 4 is a torso shape with tallest height and least weight. The percentage was the smallest(10.6％) and the width was smaller than any other type but the height was the tallest. The body curve is very clear and they have thin body but big buttocks so it can be said that the people of this type have the best silhouette. Type 2 that had the highest percentile is short and overweighted so it can be said that Type 2 is the representative torso shape of women in 60s.
Consumers' Purchasing Behavior and Consumer Ethics on Fashion Counterfeits among Korean, Japanese, and Hong Kong Consumers
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 28, issue 11, 2004, Pages 1438~1447
The purpose of this study were to examine if the buyers of counterfeits tend to care less about ethical beliefs than non-buyers among Korean, Japanese, and Hong Kong consumers, and if they have more supportive attitudes toward counterfeit products. 573 female college students living in Seoul, Tokyo, and Hong Kong were surveyed. For data analysis, descriptive statistics, factor analysis, and t-test were used. As the results, 65.8% of respondents had experiences of purchasing fashion counterfeits. Handbags among fashion counterfeits were the most frequently purchased by the respondents. The buyers of counterfeits tended to purchase counterfeit goods as more alternative of genuine products than non-buyers, and did not feel guiltier toward purchasing of counterfeits than non-buyers. Also, the buyers of counterfeits tended to have more positive attitudes toward the legality of manufacturing, selling, and buying of counterfeits than non-buyers. In addition, they tended to consider much more purchasing of counterfeits as a way to fight against big-firms than non-buyers. Finally, the buyers of counterfeits tended to have lower consumer ethics than non-buyers. Based on these results, global marketing strategies for fashion goods were suggested.
A Comparative Analysis of CAD Education and Key Success Factors in Korea, Japan, Germany and USA (Part I)
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 28, issue 11, 2004, Pages 1448~1457
Based upon mail survey method, this empirical research aims to compare the CAD education in four countries in terms of education conditions, education methods, and education performance. Results show that Korea is similar to Japan in many ways, while it differ from U.S.A. or Germany in several respects. Putting less importance in CAD course, Korean professors of CAD were found to be relatively young and deficient of teaching experience and/or industrial experience. And CAD course, which is not compulsory but elective one, is taught in a more crowded (junior) class with less satisfactory hardware and software. In the education goal or contents, the CAD courses in Korea lack real world problems or applications, concentrating less on students-based or problem-based learning methods than Germany or U.S.A.. Consequently, Korean CAD education is outperformed by German or U.S. one in educational performance both in skill improvement and in attitude enhancement.
Conceptual Meaning of Purple-series Color Names in the Clothing of Joseon Dynasty Period
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 28, issue 11, 2004, Pages 1458~1469
In this study, color names focusing on the purple series, appearing in the clothing of the Joseon Dynasty, were classified systematically, and the conceptual meaning of each name were investigated through various methods. The results are as follows; First, the color names of purple-series were classified systematically. According to the integration scheme of morphemes, color names could be divided into two categories; single names and composite names. Color names could also be classified into universal and limited names according to the areal distribution of literatures. Secondly, the conceptual meaning of the color names of purple-series were considered. The conceptual meaning could be divided into two categories; one 'etymological and dyeing methodological meaning', the other 'color systematic meaning' By studying the dictionary definition of color names, comparing and analyzing the material composition of colors, the etymological and dyeing methodological meaning could be grasped. Furthermore, the color systematic meaning of each name could be grasped through the cluster analysis of L*, a*, b* values measured from the relics of clothing. Thirdly, the conceptual semantic structure were established on the basis of conceptual meanings of purple-series color names. The conceptual semantic structure of purple-series color names is forming discrete structure with the dyeing method and material of dyes as their semantic components.
Photogrammetric Study on Facial Shape Analysis of Female College Students
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 28, issue 11, 2004, Pages 1470~1481
The purpose of this study was to research on facial shape to suggest a quantified data for the domestic apparel and beauty industry. Conducted a measurement research of 278 female college students, We took the photographs of front view and lateral view of the subjects by digital camera and obtained the 69 measurements through the facial measurement program. 264 ,subjects' measurement data were analyzed by various statistical methods such as descriptive analysis, factor analysis and cluster analysis. Using the 69 measurement items,4 factors were selected as key factors for the factor analysis of facial shape, the factors are: \circled1 Front face height \circled2 Side face radial length \circled3 Front face breadth \circled4 Ear height and Gnathion radial length. We categorized the facial shape into four types by cluster analysis. Type 4 is the most common facial shape in female college students: \circled1 Type 1: Round face \circled2 Type 2: Oval face \circled3 Type 3: Square face \circled4 Type 4: Heart shaped face According to the facial shape analysis, facial shape of female college students are consisting of Heart shaped face(34.8%), Round face(29.2%), Square face(23.5%), oval face(12.5%).
Attitude toward the Website for Apparel Shopping (Part I): Measurement Model Testing
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 28, issue 11, 2004, Pages 1482~1494
This study identified convergent validity and discriminant validity of measurement variables by factor analysis using Spss program and tested covariance measurement model including latent variables such as the website attributes (interactivity, search and visual information of website), shopping values(utilitarian and hedonic value) and attitude toward website by AMOS program. The data were collected from a sample of 271 internet shopper of university students(male: 82, female: 189). They visited the website for apparel shopping and, after searching a casual clothing which they wanted to buy, requested to answer the questionnaire. The results were as follows: Variables that reduce validity were deleted in the several steps of factor analysis and initial measurement model testing. Final measurement model was constructed by valid variables was accepted. This measurement model will be input for testing causal research model that can explain how attributes of the website influences on consumer attitude toward the website.
Characteristics of Elderly Women's Foot Shape Compared with Young Women
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 28, issue 11, 2004, Pages 1495~1506
This study was attempted to clarify the characteristics of elderly women's foot shape by examining the various measurements of women over 60 years old as compared with those of women in twenties considered as reference group. The subjects were 321 elderly women and 181 young women. Their right feet were measured directly and indirectly by using scanner and digital camera. The anthropometric measurements were composed of 62 items. They were measured during the months of July and August in 2001. As a result of comparing actual measurements of foot between the two groups, it was found that the elderly women tended to have shorter and lower foot than those among the young women. Among the elderly women, in addition, it was revealed that many deformities related to toes or legs led to the toes concentrated to the central axis of feet resulting in relatively steeper lateral angle of toe, and the heels and legs slanting forwards. As a result of comparing index values of foot between the groups, the elderly women's foot had the relatively wide width and low height in comparison with the length, showing more elliptical flattening than those of the young women. And, the width of the inside was wider than that of the outside, and the toe width was relatively short in comparison with the foot width resulting in severe deformities on the toes or the central axis of foot. Therefore, it was found that there were several deformities including flat foot or deformed toes among elderly women. It is expected that the characteristics of elderly women's foot shown in the results mentioned above will be used as the basic data in designing the footwear for elderly women.
Development of Washable Wool Using Environmental-friendly Spray UV-cure Finishing Technique - Using Photocrosslinkable Polymerr Dextran-methacrylate-
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 28, issue 11, 2004, Pages 1507~1515
Washable wool was developed using environmental-friendly spray UV-cure technique. Photocrosslinkable polymer, dextran-methacrylate, was synthesized starting from natural biopolymer, dextran. The aqueous solution of dextran-methacrylate was applied to wool fabric with various concentrations to find out the optimum condition in minimizing felting shrinkage. The wool fabric subsequently cured by 365 nm UV, The effects of UV-cure time and photoinitiator concentration on felting behavior of wool were examined. As the concentration of dextran-methacrylate increased, the felting shrinkage decreased gradually. At concentration 0.5g/ml, the felting shrinkage of wool was negligible. Other properties such as air permeability, moisture content, wrinkle recovery, thickness and wettability were also evaluated. The surface coating of dextran polymer onto wool fiber was identified by SEM.
Effect of Weft Knit Structural Characteristics on the Subjective Texture and Sensibility
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 28, issue 11, 2004, Pages 1516~1523
The purpose of this study were to analyze the effect of weft knit structural characteristics on the subjective texture and sensibility. For this, the material was knitted into 8 kinds of weft plain knit fabrics with four kinds of fiber components such as wool, acryl, rayon, and nylon, 3 steps of densities and 3 steps of twist numbers to ply two yarns. The data were analyzed by factor analysis, ANOVA and multidimensional scaling. From factor analysis, subjective textures were categorized as 'bulk/resilience', 'surface/density' and 'soft/drape', and subjective sensibilities were categorized as 'natural/comfortable', 'feminine/elegance' and 'stable/neat' Among the knit structural characteristics, the component of fibers and the density of fabrics were the important factors to give variations in texture and sensibility : In comparison with wool knit of medium density, the knit fabrics of other components and different densities each showed a unique texture and sensibility. But twist number to ply two yams had a few influence on subjective properties. As a result of MDS analysis, the texture and sensibility of plain weft knit fabrics was classified as 'thin-full', 'hard-soft', 'young-old' and 'warm-cool'.
A Study on Sizing System and Growth-allowance Measure for Middle-school Girl's School Uniform According to Their Body Types
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 28, issue 11, 2004, Pages 1524~1535
The purpose of this study was to develop middle school girl's' school uniform sizing system according to their body types. The data collected with anthropometric measurements from 390 middle school girls aged 12-15 years old was analyzed using t-test, ANOVA, factor analysis and cluster analysis. A new sizing system was developed in accordance with each of the 2 body-type clusters. The analysis of two-way distribution of 'height-bust girth' and 'height-waist girth' was conducted for the girls of the first grade, which is the time when they purchase their school uniforms. The interval of sizing system was defined in consideration with the most efficient distribution of the body sizes utilizing Loss Function. This study also provided Reference-Sizes and Growth-Allowance Measures for each sizing system to help pattern drafting and clothing construction of the uniform manufacturers. The cover ratio of sizing system proposed by this study was higher when compared with that of the National Agency for Technology and Quality and uniform manufacturing companies, Thus, the result of this study is expected to make up the current sizing system of the school uniform.
Brassiere Pattern Design Using the 3D Information - Application of Ruled Surface-
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 28, issue 11, 2004, Pages 1536~1543
Garment is made by a 2D pattern and should be fitted to a human body which has 3D characteristics. Therefore, to design a pattern more effectively, the use of 3D information of a human body and the investigation of relationship between the 3D garment and 2D pattern are necessary. In this work, ruled surface method was used to reflect the 3D information of a human body for a pattern design. The images of the brassiere line on the woman's dress form were captured by phase-shifting projection moire system and the 3D information on the design line was obtained. 2D patterns on the various parts of the brassiere were developed directly from the 3D data by the ruled surface method. In addition, design line, the area and the amount of dart were quantified. And then we verify the appropriateness of the ruled surface method to the 2D pattern development by measuring the distribution of the space between women's figure and segmented clothing item. It was found that the ruled surface method is useful to transform the 3D design line to the 2D pattern, if we followed the steps suggested in this paper.