Go to the main menu
Skip to content
Go to bottom
REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 29, Issue 12 - Dec 2005
Volume 29, Issue 11 - Nov 2005
Volume 29, Issue 9_10 - Sep 2005
Volume 29, Issue 8 - Aug 2005
Volume 29, Issue 7 - Jul 2005
Volume 29, Issue 6 - Jun 2005
Volume 29, Issue 5 - May 2005
Volume 29, Issue 3_4 - Mar 2005
Volume 29, Issue 2 - Feb 2005
Volume 29, Issue 1 - Jan 2005
Selecting the target year
Thermo-physiological Responses of the Lower Grade Elementary School Children -A Comparison Between Japanese and Korean Children-
Kim Seong-Hee ; Lee Uk-Ja ; Tamura Teruko ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 29, issue 12, 2005, Pages 1527~1534
In order to clarify the characteristics of the thermo-physiological responses of the child and to understand the influence of the country where the child has grown up on the responses, the thermo-physiological responses of the Japanese children(J group) and the Korean children(K group) were examined. The subject wearing shorts was exposed first to a thermo neutral room
for 1 hour, then transferred to a cold
or a hot
room for 1 hour. The experiment was done in the climate chamber of Bunka Women's University in the summer of 1997 for Japan, and in the climate chamber in the Keimyung University in the summer of 1998 for Korea. The subjects consisted of 5 boys and 5 girls aged 7-9 years in Japan and 4 boys and 4 girls aged 7-9 years in Korea. As a result: 1) The rectal temperature increased slightly with a rise in air temperature. K group showed a slightly higher rectal temperature. 2) The skin temperature of the hand and foot decreased conspicuously during cold exposure. It was more in the K group than in the J group. 3) Relative local sweat rates were similar in the two groups at
, while they were considerably different at
. Even perspiration was observed over the whole body in the J group but the perspiration was large in the trunk and low in the extremity in the K group. 4) The heart rate was higher in the J group than in the K group but it increased with the rise of the air temperature in both groups.
A Study on the Women's Bodysuit Sleeve Block Construction Using Stretch fabrics
Park Gin-Ah ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 29, issue 12, 2005, Pages 1535~1545
The study aimed firstly, to develop the women's bodysuit sleeve block construction method adopting the appropriate pattern reduction rates according to the fabric stretch property. Secondly, the details applied to the bodysuit sleeve block drafting (Dr the educational and industrial usage were proposed. For these, several distinguishing bodysuit sleeve pattern making methods(i.e. Joseph-Armstrong: T1, Shoben & Ward: T2, Esmod: T3 and Mixed Joseph-Armstrong: T4) were analyzed and divided into two categories that adopt 1) the equally (i.e., T1) and 2) the differently(i.e., T2, T3 & T4) distributed front and back armhole length measurements. Women's sleeve samples were made for the research using the same stretch fabric(
in wale and course each) to the previous research. A group comprising 5 relevant experts evaluated the fit and comfort features of the samples. Experiments analyzed the appearance of sleeve samples focused on total 13 evaluation parts(including the front/side/back fit tolerance, sleeve centre line, sleeve length, appropriateness of the sleeve appearance balanced with the bodysuit and etc.): and performed the comfort test evaluating three kinds(vertical-front/vertical-side/ horizontal) of arm movements. The most appropriate bodysuit sleeve to fulfil the original aims of the study was suggested. The findings and suggestions throughout the study were: 1) the measurements and required reduction rates for the bodysuit sleeve block developed: outer sleeve length (with 1.0 RR), crown height(with 0.7 RR), front and back armhole lengths measured on the bodysuit blocks (
ease amount), elbow width(0.9/0.95 RR), wrist girth measurements(from
tolerances can be given to): and 2) the differently distributed front and back armhole length measurements resulted in the better fit and comfort through the research.
Effect of Nonionic Surfactant Solutions on Wetting and Absorbency of Polyethylene Terephthalate(PET) Fabrics (Part II) -Surfactants Characteristics and Fabric Properties-
Kim, Chun-Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 29, issue 12, 2005, Pages 1546~1553
The wetting behavior and liquid transport of nonionic surfactant solutions; Span 20 and Tween 20, 40, 60, 80, 21, 61, 81, 65 & 85: in polyethylene terephthalate(PET) fabrics are reported. Five different PET fabrics are used in this study. PET 1, 2 & 3 have different compactness in structure. PET 4 & 5 have similar physical properties to PET 2, however, PET 4 has heat set finish and PET 5 with rewetting agent. The wetting and water retention properties of PET fabrics are greatly improved by addition of nonionic surfactants. The aqueous liquid retention(W) vs. cosq and W vs. adhesion tension has positive linear relationship. Hydrophilic surfactants which have short hydrophobes and surfactants with unsaturated hydrophobe structures are more efffctive in improving the wetting properties of PET fabrics. PET fabric which has larger thread spacing shows greater value of water retention ratio(W/H) than PET fabric with smaller thread spacing if there are no surfactants present in the system, however, W/H values become very similar among these PET fabrics when the surfactants are added. If there are no surfactants present in the system, PET with heat set finish has smaller value and PET with rewetting agent has greater value of W/H than PET without finish even though the fabrics have the similar physical properties.
Minimalism in Modern Hairstyle and Fashion
Sohn Hyang-Mi ; Park Kil-Soon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 29, issue 12, 2005, Pages 1554~1561
This study aims to analyze modern hairstyle and fashion in the collections in the late 1990s, based on the concepts and characteristics of Minimalism, a buzzword of the art field in the 1960s. This study used qualitative research method, in other words, presenting an analysis framework by studying domestic and foreign books and dissertations on Minimalism and then applying the Internet or visual image to the analysis framework. The result indicates that Minimalism design in modem hairstyle and fashion has four characteristics: simplicity, unity, repetition and spatiality.
A Study on the Effective Way of Supplying of Highly Educated Fashion Specialists -Focusing on the Korean Apparel Manufacturers in Dalian, China-
Bae Soo-Jeong ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 29, issue 12, 2005, Pages 1562~1570
The purpose of this thesis is to find the effective way of practical education in the fashion related department in order to supply the appropriate experts to the Korean apparel manufacturers located in Dalian, China. The interviews were made twice from
of Feb. to
of Mar. 2005 and from
of July to 31st of July 2005 through the method ot a direct interview with the CEOs of the 7 representative apparel manufactures. The results of the interviews were as following. Seven companies
participated in the survey all complained of insufficient workers. Also the companies were having difficulties at finding appropriate workers who can handle designing, management, and circulation, because specialists who are fluent in Korean and Chinese are very rare. Moreover, Korean apparel manufacturers are now taking a step further to launch a high quality fashion brand, getting out of the simple hand work depending on low wage or low-tech(6 companies
). Thus, well-educated fashion specialists(intermediate manager) are required on the part of Korean clothing companies or apparel manufacturers in China. It is expected the intermediate managers and the specialists who are capable of launching a new brand will be urgently needed. Therefore, appropriate educations in Korea would be essential to minimize the problems the Korean fashion specialists might face in China. 1 would like to present three suggestions. 1. The highly educated Korean fashion specialists on apparel industry will be a solution both to the high jobless status in our country and to the deficiency in human resources of Korean apparel manufacturers in Dalian. 2. The students in the college should learn how to write down the working chart and matching chart in practical conditions. Taking an intern-ship in working factories in China during a certain period of time will be helpful. 3. The experts should be trained with emphasis on the quality, design, and value of the brand. This study will be used as a base for Koreans who work in fashion related department to enter the Chinese fashion market having a great potential.
A Comprehensive Approach to Model Development -The Effect of U.S. Retail Employees' Work Experiences on Job Performance, Job Satisfaction, and Retail Career Intention-
Kim, Hae-Jung ; Crutsinger, Christy ; Knight, Dee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 29, issue 12, 2005, Pages 1571~1581
In a highly competitive marketplace, U.S. retailers are challenged to attract, recruit, and retain a skilled workforce. The purpose of our research was to examine the impact of young retail employees' work experiences on their job performance, job satisfaction, and career intention using a comprehensive approach to model development. The model was developed in three phases over a four-year period using both qualitative and quantitative methodologies. During Phase 1, we conducted focus group interviews to guide the development of the questionnaire. Work experience was initially operationalized as role conflict, role ambiguity, supervisory support, and work involvement. Using a student sample(n=470) from U.S. universities, we employed multiple regression to determine the significance of relationships between their work experience, job satisfaction, and retail career intention. During Phase 2, we expanded our investigation to include retail work experiences of teens employed while they were in high school. The teen sample(n=898) was drawn from students enrolled in work-study programs in 16 U.S. high schools, and data were analyzed using structural equation modeling (hereafter SEM). During Phase 3, we expanded our model to include two new variables, job characteristics and job performance. Based on a national sample(n=803) of U.S. university students, we employed SEM to holistically determine if retail employees' work experience impacted their job performance, job satisfaction, and retail career intention. During each phase, job satisfaction consistently was the superior antecedent of retail career intention. Among the work experience variables, supervisory support had a positive impact on job satisfaction, while role conflict, role ambiguity, and work involvement exhibited inconsistent effects on job outcomes. The strong relationship between job satisfaction and retail career intention should make job satisfaction a priority for retailers.
Analysis of Formal Aesthetics of Fashion Designer's Works -Focused on Madeleine Vionnet & Christian Dior-
Yun, Ji-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 29, issue 12, 2005, Pages 1582~1594
The purpose of this study is to rediscover the value of form in fashion design by developing a new perspective of design appreciation. By examining and modifying the theories of Wolfflin and Belong, this paper tries to of for a new perspective for analyzing the characteristics of form in fashion designers' works. The three new perspective, Flat & Rounded, Closed & Opened and Part & Whole, can be used to analyze the formative aesthetic character of Vionnet's and Dior's works. Ten of Vionnet's and eleven of Dior's representative works selected and applied Delong's visual priority diagram to analyze their character. Vionnet and Dior, emphasized form and construction in their design and applied geometric shapes in their works. The main differences between Vionnet and Dior is that Vionnet's work transforms from geometric shapes in 2-dimentional space to drapery shapes in 3-dimensional space, Dior's work displays geometric shapes in 3-dimensional space. Vionnet created new formative art through the relationship between the clothes and human body. Vionnet's work has distinctively different qualities depending on whether the space is 2-dimensional or 3-dimensional showing transposition of form. In 2-dimensional space, Vionnet's works consist of triangles, rectangles and circles which are 'flat' and 'closed' in quality. These transform to solid forms by draping bias fabrics, which have a 'rounded' and 'open' quality. Dior tended to show artificial form rather than the natural lines of the body which is very different with Vionnet. Dior created clothes by using solid geometric form such as spheres, prisms, cylinders, pyramids and cubes in 3-dimensional space, which were visualized through constructive technique such as dart manipulation, boning, gathering, tucking, pleating, shirring and layering. Dior's works have their own form which does not relate with body shape. So his Works have a 'rounded' and 'closed' quality.
Upper Body Surface Change Analysis using 3-D Body Scanner
Lee Jeongran ; Ashdoon Susan P. ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 29, issue 12, 2005, Pages 1595~1607
Three-dimensional(3-D) body scanners used to capture anthropometric measurements are now becoming a common research tool far apparel. This study had two goals, to test the accuracy and reliability of 3-D measurements of dynamic postures, and !o analyze the change in upper body surface measurements between the standard anthropometric position and various dynamic positions. A comparison of body surface measurements using two different measuring methods, 3-D scan measurements using virtual tools on the computer screen and traditional manual measurements for a standard anthropometric posture and for a posture with shoulder flexion were
. Girth items showed some disagreement of values between the two methods. None of the measurements were significantly different except f3r the neckbase girth for any of the measuring methods or postures. Scan measurements of the upper body items showed significant linear surface change in the dynamic postures. Shoulder length, interscye front and back, and biacromion length were the items most affected in the dynamic postures. Changes of linear body surface were very similar for the two measuring methods within the same posture. The repeatability of data taken from the 3-D scans using virtual tools showed satisfactory results. Three times repeated scan measurements f3r the scapula protraction and scapula elevation posture were proven to be statistically the same for all measurement items. Measurements from automatic measuring software that measured the 3-D scan with no manual intervention were compared with the measurements using virtual tools. Many measurements from the automatic program were larger and showed quite different values.
Analysis of Degradation Products in Madder Dyed Fabrics in Selective Degradation Conditions
Ahn, Cheun-Soon ; Obendorf, S.-Kay ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 29, issue 12, 2005, Pages 1608~1618
The purpose of this investigation was to investigate the degradation products of the dye component extracted from madder dyed fabrics using the GC-MS analysis and to evaluate the change of color due to degradation treatment. Four different degradation protocols were used in this study,; refrigeration at
(LT), room temperature (RT), oven treatment at
method. Degradation times for each thermal system were 6 hour, 24 hour, 48 hour, 1 week, 2 week, 4 week. Alizarin was detected from the control and degraded samples of both alizarin dyed and madder dyed fabrics. Benzoic acid, 2, 4-di-tert-butylphenol, phthalic anhydride were detected as the degradation products for both alizarin dyed and madder dyed fabrics. The result suggest that these products can be used as the fingerprints of GC-MS analysis for the identification of madder dye in archaeological textiles. Both alizarin dyed and madder dyed samples became less red and less yellow after degradation. In the PER degradation system madder dyed sample showed the greatest color difference even after 1 week of degradation treatment. Further research is necessary for investigating the color change in the exhumed textiles, which is caused by the dual action of dye fading and the staining of organic matters in the soil.
The Effect of Washing Conditions on the Dimension and Mechanical Properties of Spandex Yarns
Chung, Hae-Won ; Kim, Mi-Kyung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 29, issue 12, 2005, Pages 1619~1626
The durability of a stretch fabric is mainly related to the change in the dimension and mechanical properties of elastomeric fibers during wearing and washing. In this study, we examined the effects of washing temperature, presoaking time and the number of washing cycles on the change in length, tenacity, elongation at break, and permanent elongation after six repeated cycles of
extension and relaxation of spandex yams with varying fineness and with a different rate of extension during heat-set. The spandex yarns continued to shrink as the wash temperature and the number of wash cycles increased. In addition, the finer spandex yams decreased in length more than the thicker yams. The increase in temperature and presoaking time tended to cause a slight decrease in the tenacity and elongation at break of the spandex yarns. Permanent elongation of the spandex yams also increased as the temperature, presoaking time and the number of washing cycles increased. Moreover, an extended presoaking time followed by washing at
like repeated washing cycles showed the great increase in the permanent elongation of spandex yams. The thinner spandex yin had a better elasticity than the thicker one, since the former had a lower permanent elongation percentage than the latter. Based on the DSC thermograms, the melting points of the spandex yarns after washing were almost the same as those of the spandex yarns before washing.