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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 29, Issue 12 - Dec 2005
Volume 29, Issue 11 - Nov 2005
Volume 29, Issue 9_10 - Sep 2005
Volume 29, Issue 8 - Aug 2005
Volume 29, Issue 7 - Jul 2005
Volume 29, Issue 6 - Jun 2005
Volume 29, Issue 5 - May 2005
Volume 29, Issue 3_4 - Mar 2005
Volume 29, Issue 2 - Feb 2005
Volume 29, Issue 1 - Jan 2005
Selecting the target year
A Study of the Fashion Design Process Model for Mass Customized Clothing
Park, Jin-A ; Lee, Joo-Hyeon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 29, issue 7, 2005, Pages 897~908
The purpose of this study was to search for the effective design process model f3r mass customized clothing. Therefore, this study was to propose two models of mass customized fashion design processes which were different in the customized degree and to compare their efficiencies and appropriateness with those of the existing fashion design process. The data was obtained from a survey of 150 females in their twenties and thirties living in Seoul and Gyeonggi during April in 2003. It was analysed by frequency,
, crosstabulation, correlation, t-test and multiple-regression. The results of survey were: Many respondents
preferred mass customized products and mass customized design process model which suggested more choices to presumers. The mass customized design process was considered to be applicable to the present domestic clothing market. In the case of the whole respondents, color was a very important design element in mass customized design process model; because of this, the opportunity to choose colors will be essential in mass customized design process. In the case of respondents who have higher preference on mass customized products, textile(texture) was a very important design element. In the cases of both(whole respondents and respondents who have higher preference on mass customized products), style was the most important design element in fashion design process. To summarize, it proposed that to accept the mass customized clothing will be possible in this study. What is more, the guidelines to develope mass customized fashion design process model were suggested in this study.
A study on the Distinctive construction of Korean Men's Traditional Trousers
Kim, Eun-Jung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 29, issue 7, 2005, Pages 909~917
Based on the theory that formation of Korean Men's Traditional Trousers is related to Mobius strip, this study researches correlation between distinctive construction of Korean Men's Traditional Trousers and historical background based on old documents and restoration. Distinctive construction of Korean Men's Traditional Trousers are as follows. First, Korean Men's Traditional Trousers is manufactured just like Principle of Mobius strip that the square is twisted once, considering its materials' conditions. Second, Korean Men's Traditional Trousers, manufactured larger, feature cubic effect and twisted formative beauty because its waist and ankle parts are tightened with bands. Third, Korean Men's Traditional Trousers, composed of big Sapok and small Sapok in oblique, are suitable for active play due to its high functionality.
An Experimental study on the human's physiological in Smart Textile Materials by Using Medical Infrared Thermo graphic Imaging
Lee Tae-il ; Lee Su-jeong ; Lee Kyung-mi ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 29, issue 7, 2005, Pages 918~925
The following are the results from the infrared body temperature image test to verify the changes in facial temperature according to call duration with a cellular phone. As for the body temperatures, it appears to be the mean value at the upper central point of phone's battery among 7 different points that are measured, and to be the highest at srernocleido-mastoid and scapular trapezius muscle triangle zone
. The changes of body temperature according to the time duration shows that the body temperature rises according to the length of phone use because of the heat emitted from the battery. As for the temperature changes according to blocking materials, the one without processing appears to be higher in the mean temperature compared to the others that are processed, NSS(Nano Silver Silk) and NSG(Nano Silver Silk Gold) appear to be the lowest in the temperature to show the best blocking property. As for the temperature changes according to measuring points, it appears to be the highest at P4, P5 with all materials, and one with NSG to be the lowest at Pl, P2, P3, and one with NSS to be the lowest at P3, P4, P5, P6, which is due to the thermal conduction of Au and Ag. And the mean temperature at each point appears to be different according to the materials. Therefore, the study conducted with human participants requires a proper particle size of it which would not penetrate cellular tissues and a proper binder and binding treatment for it, to prevent the physical fatigues and the potential diseases. However, it is highly required for back-up researches to verify various aspects in applying nano silver to textile products.
The Text Analysis of Plasticity Expressed in the Modern Art to Wear (Part II) - Focused on the West Art Works since 1980s -
Seo, Seung-Mi ; Yang, Sook-Hi ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 29, issue 7, 2005, Pages 926~937
The analysis category of Art to Wear was text analyzed from the research material of 100 projects put together by fashion specialist. The conclusion of Art to Wear was comprehended the general features of it were compared and analyzed from a semiotics context. According to this analysis, the formative features of modern Art to Wear is categorized into three different dimensions from a semiotics light. The formative features of modem Art to Wear in the light of syntactic dimension was divided as an open constructed shape of Space Extension, non-typical Deformation, Geometrical Plasticity. The formative features of modem Art to Wear in the light of semantic dimension express symbolic meaning through metaphorical sign. These sign reflect the body image of the life and death and its objective of Abjection, Hybrid of discultural appearance and the image of Hyper-reality, which are features used to comprehend the inner meaning. The formative features of modem Art to Wear in the light of pragmatic dimension divided the artist emotion and meaning system delivered by Emotive Image, the Phatic Image that arouse inner signification and the Poetic Image which contain artistic and aesthetic meaning within it.
The Double Rotting Using Water and Enzyme & Cottonizing of Kenaf
Lee Mikyung ; Lee Hyeja ; Yoo Hyeja ; Han Youngsook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 29, issue 7, 2005, Pages 938~947
Kenaf basts were double retted by using water and enzyme. The best conditions were enzyme concentration
and 1 day treatment at
, 4 days treatment at
. It was showed that the double rotting could be more economical and eco-friendly than just water rotting or enzyme rotting. Kenaf fibers have been cottonized by removing lignin and hemicellulose partially. In order to cottonize kenaf fiber, lignin of kenaf fibers were removed by sodium chlorite and then hemicellulose of kenaf fibers were removed by sodium hydroxide. The cottonizing phenomenon of kenaf fibers were was confirmed in transversal and longitudinal photograph of SEM. The tensile strength and crystallinity of cottonized fiber were investigated. The tensile strength and crystallinity were lower as the lignin and hemicellulose of kenaf fibers were less.
Body Image and Self-esteem of Adolescent Segments According to Family and School Factors
Hwang Jinsook ; Na Youngjoo ; Lee Eunhee ; Koh Seonju ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 29, issue 7, 2005, Pages 948~958
The purposes of this study were to segment adolescents into groups by family and school factors and to investigate the differences among the groups regarding body image and self-esteem. The study distributed the questionnaires to the adolescents who were middle and high school students in South Korea. The total respondents were 2240. The data were analyzed by factor analysis, cluster analysis, ANOVA, Duncan test, and
. Factor analysis showed that body image had four dimensions: appearance management, physical attractiveness, weight control, and the opposite sex fear. The cluster analysis showed that Korean adolescents were segmented into four groups (family preference/school preference group, family dissatisfaction/school dissatisfaction group, family average/peer competition group, family average/peer dissatisfaction group). The four groups were significantly different in regard to three dimensions of body image, self-esteem, and demographics. For example, the family preference/school preference group was most satisfied with their bodies, had a lowest opposite sex fear, and had a highest self·esteem. However, family dissatisfaction/teacher dissatisfaction group was most dissatisfied with their bodies, had a greatest interest in their appearance, and had a lowest self-esteem.
A Study on the Discriminant Variables of Face Skin Colors for the Korean Males
Kim, Ku-Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 29, issue 7, 2005, Pages 959~967
The color of apparels has the interaction of the face skin colors of the wearers. This study was carried out to classify the face skin colors of Korean males into several similar face skin colors in order to extract favorable colors which flatter to their face skin colors. The criterion that select the new subjects who have the classified face skin colors have to be decided. With color spectrometer, JX-777, face skin colors of subjects were measured quantitatively and classified into three clusters that had similar hue, value and chroma with Munsell Color System. Sample size was 418 Korean males and other 15 of new males subjects. Data were analyzed by K-means cluster analysis, ANOVA, Duncan multiple range test, Stepwise discriminant analysis using SPSS Win. 12. Findings were as follows: 1. 418 subjects who have YR colors were clustered into 3 kinds of face skin color groups. 2. Discriminant variables of face skin colors was 4 variables : L value of forehead, v value of cheek, c value of forehead, and b value of cheek from standardized canonical discriminant function coefficient 1 and c value of forehead, L value of forehead, b value of cheek. and L value of cheek from standardized canonical discriminant function coefficient 2. 3. Hit ratio of type 1 was
, of type 2 was
and of type 3 was
by the canonical discriminant function of 4 variables. 4. The canonical discriminant function equation 1 and 2 were calculated with the unstandardized canonical discriminant function coefficient and constant, the cutting score, and range of the score were computed. 5. The criterion that select the new subjects who have the classified face skin colors was decided.
A Study on Marketing Strategies for the High-Value-Added Cultural Fashion Products in Korea
Lee Jin-Hwa ; Kim Min-Ja ; Lee Jin-Min ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 29, issue 7, 2005, Pages 968~977
The purpose of this study was to investigate the purchase behavior and the level of satisfaction for Japanese tourists buying cultural-fashion product in Korea. Subjects were selected through convenient sampling technique in Seoul. A self-administered questionnaire was developed in Japanese by translation and back-translation method. Finally, 288 questionnaire out of 400 were used for data analysis. For the purpose of achieving high value-added fashion products, the 4P marketing strategies targeting Japanese tourists were discussed based on the results.
A Study on the Discriminant Variables of Face Skin Colors for the Korean Females
Kim, Ku-Ja ; Chung, Hae-Won ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 29, issue 7, 2005, Pages 978~986
The color of apparel products have a close relationship with the face skin colors of consumers. In order to extract the favorable colors which flatter to consumer's face skin colors, this study was carried our to classify the face skin colors of Korean females. The criteria that select new subjects who have the classified face skin colors have to be decided. With color spectrometer, JX-777, face skin colors of subjects were measured and classified into three clusters that had similar hue, value and chroma with Munsell Color System. Sample size was 324 Korean females and other new 10 college girls. Data were analyzed by K-means cluster analysis, ANOVA, Duncan multiple range test, Stepwise discriminant analysis using SPSS Win. 12. Findings were as follows: 1. 324 subjects who have YR colors were clustered into 3 face skin color groups. 2. Discriminant variables of face skin colors were 5 variables : b value of cheek, V value of forehead, L value of cheek, C value of forehead and H value of cheek by the standardized canonical discriminant function coefficient 1. 3. Hit ratio of type 1 was
, of type 2 was
, of type 3 was
and mean of hit ratio was
by canonical discriminant function of 5 variables. 4. With the unstandardized canonical discriminant function coefficient and constant, canonical discriminant function equation 1 and 2 were calculated. And cutting score and range of score of the classified types were computed. The criteria that select the new subjects were decided.
Development of Susceptible Functional Fiber through Chitosan Finishing Treatment of Tencel Blended Fabrics (Part I) - Surface Structure Analysis and Hand Value Assessment -
Park Youn-Hee ; Bae Hyun-Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 29, issue 7, 2005, Pages 987~996
For cationization, if chitosan, which has the affinity for a human body and reacts easily without inducing any pollution, is used, cationization of Tencel blended fabrics can be expected and further expansion of its use as a new susceptible material can be expected. Therefore, in this study, in order to compare a Tencel/cotton and a Tencel/Cotton/PET as Tencel blended fabrics with a Tencel single fabric, the fabric samples were used and processed with chitosan after NaOH pretreatment and enzyme treatment thereof, and then its adherent efficiency was enhanced by using a crosslinking agent, and then it was got to be finished with a softener. The fibril of Tencel fabric was controlled by enzyme treatment so that the surface of the Tencel blended fabrics got to be smooth. Chitosan adhered to the surface of the Tencel blended fabrics in the form of particles through its processing with chitosan. Chitosan treatment caused little change in the crystal structure thereof and the thermal stability of the Tencel/Cotton/PET fabric was slightly improved. The total hand value(THV) calculated on the basis of the change due to chitosan treatment was increased in all samples.
A Study on the Hand of the Fabrics Treated with Chitosan-polyurethane Mixture Solution -Thermal Curing of Cotton, Polyester, and Nylon Fabrics-
Kwak Jung-Ki ; Jeon Dong-Won ; Kim Jong-Jun ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 29, issue 7, 2005, Pages 997~1007
The textile finishing methods utilizing chitosan have been mostly focused on the applications in the improvement of the dyeing of cotton fabrics, or the improvement of hand of the cotton or wool fabrics. On the other hand, it Is difficult to find the application examples in the synthetic fiber fabrics including polyester and nylon fabrics. The aim of this study is to improve the stiffness and the poor wash fastness of the fabrics treated only with chitosan. We tried to improve the softness by employing chitosan and polyurethane mixture solution and to prevent the detachment of the chitosan from the fabric. The treatment was applied to cotton, polyester, and nylon fabrics. The change of the properties of the treated fabrics were investigated. The optimum finishing condition was sought by changing the mixture ratio of the chitosan/PU(polyurethane) solutions. The adjusted ratios of the chitosan/PU solutions were 1 : 0, 1 : 0.25, 1 : 0.5, and 1 : 2 during the mixture solution preparation. Using the KES(Kawabata Evaluation System), the physical and mechanical properties of the finished fabric specimens were analyzed, and hand values of the specimens were calculated through the use of translational formulas. According to the chemical composition of the fibers, chitosan solution or chitosan/PU mixture exhibited wide range of coating effect. Since the chitosan acid solution has high polarity, the bonding force with the cotton fibers is high. By the appropriate addition of PU in the chitosan treatment of cotton, KOSHI and HARI values of the fabric improved. The air permeability of the chitosan/PU treated cotton fabric specimen improved, resulting in the highest value at the mixture of chitosan : PU=1:0.25.
Development of a Fitted Bodice Pattern Using a 3D Replica of Women's Upper Body
Lee, Hee-Ran ; Hong, Kyung-Hi ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 29, issue 7, 2005, Pages 1008~1017
When we develop 2D pattern from replica of human body with small pieces, it is inevitable to have some replica pieces overlapped or departed. In this study, the optimized method of 2D pattern development from the 3D replica pieces was investigated using dress-form. Among six arrangement methods, anchoring two vertexes of a replica to neighboring vertexes of a next replica induces the optimized 2D pattern by evenly distributing stress across the 3D replica pieces. Anchoring neighboring vertexes resulted in automatic widening k overlapping (W & O) the interspaces among replicas of dress-form, thereby stress was distributed more evenly than any other method. W&O arrangement method was verified to be the best by examining the 3D space distribution images between body surface and twelve experimental garments.
Pattern Development of Waist / Abdominal Area of Obese Womem Using 3D Geometrical Model
Kim, So-Young ; Hong, Kyung-Hi ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 29, issue 7, 2005, Pages 1018~1026
Recent development of 3D scanner and software is regarded as a promising method of acquiring replicas from human body indirectly. It would be very helpful if we could predict the characteristics of 2D pattern from the simple parameters related to 3D shape for ordinary user. Therefore, in this study, investigation of 2D pattern of waist/abdominal area from the 3D geometrical model was conducted for the pattern development of waist nipper. To create body models and develop the surface of them, one ortho commonly used CAD/CAM program, IDEAS(UGS-plm solutions, USA) was used. As for the size of the models, the width, thickness, and circumference ranges of adult women's torso reported in National Anthropometric Survey of Korea (1997) were used as a standard model. Seven size variations were made by changing the width of the waist only, from 19 cm to 40 cm. Therefore, simulated body models include not only the normal body but also obese body who has wider waist and abdomen width than hip width. As results, it was found that the curvature of the unfolded 2D pattern around the abdominal area decreases as the waist width increases. As the width of the waist increases more and more, so that the comparative ratios around the torso becomes in abnormal ranges, there appears inflection points and the direction of curvature was changed. 2D Patterns obtained in this research were quantified by curvature, length of the curve and angle of deflection in the reference frame box for the convenience of the actual pattern making process. It was also possible to find that the shape of patterns of abnormal body resulted in a quite interesting change in the curves of 2D pattern, which could be applied to the custom made waist nipper for obese women.
Effect of Environmental Conditions on the Biodegradation of Cellulose Fibers - Effect of Humidity in Soil -
Kang, Yun-Kyung ; Park, Chung-Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 29, issue 7, 2005, Pages 1027~1036
Based on the correlation analysis result of preceding research, the biodegradabilities of cellulose fibers were closely related to the moisture regain of the samples, which reflects the hydrophilicity and internal structure of the fibers. In addition to this factor, it was expected that the biodegradation conditions influence the biodegradability of fibers. In this study, widely used cellulose fibers including cotton, rayon, and acetate were used. The biodegradabilities of cellulose fibers were measured by soilburial test, and then the degradation behaviors based on each condition were compared. Moreover, the effects of degradation conditions such as humidity of the soil were investigated. Changes in the internal structure of samples were also observed by X-ray analysis according to the soil burial time. It was shown that humidity of soil facilitated the degradation of cotton, rayon, and acetate fibers, showing higher degradation rate with higher humidity in soil. This effect was shown to be much greater in the fibers of high moisture regain such as cotton and rayon. In respect of microstructure change, crystallinities and their crystal size of fibers decreased remarkably in the soil of higher humidity. It was revealed that degradation of crystalline area was more dependent on the soil humidity than that of amorphous area.
A Study on the Store Patronage Mix Behavior According to Various Clothing Items and Situations
Park Jae-Ok ; Shin Jung-Hye ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 29, issue 7, 2005, Pages 1037~1047
The purpose of this study was to find out consumer's store patronage mix behavior among different types of apparel stores according to interaction between clothing items and situations. The subjects of this study were female adults who lived in Seoul. The sampling method was quota sampling. The data was obtained from 391 questionnaires. The data were analyzed using frequency, one-way ANOVA, Duncan test, and two-way ANOVA by means of SPSS. The results were as follows; 1. According to, clothing items, store patronage mix of consumer was found to be significantly different in cases of department stores and high-fashion boutiques, brand stores, discount stores of famous brands, mass-wholesale stores and mass-agent stores. 2. According to the situations, patronized store types were found to be significantly different among department store and high-fashion boutiques, brand stores, discount stores of famous brands, mass-wholesale stores and mass-agent stores. In a gift-purchasing situation, department stores and high-fashion boutiques got the highest score, in a self-usage situation, mass-wholesale stores, discount stores of famous brands and brand stores got the highest score. 3. Store patronage mix of consumer was found to be significantly related to the interaction between clothing items and situations. Department stores and high-fashion boutiques have the highest score far a consumer to purchase a suit for a gift, meanwhile brand stores have the highest score for self·usage.