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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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Volume & Issues
Volume 30, Issue 12 - Dec 2006
Volume 30, Issue 11 - Nov 2006
Volume 30, Issue 9_10 - Oct 2006
Volume 30, Issue 8 - Aug 2006
Volume 30, Issue 7 - Jul 2006
Volume 30, Issue 6 - Jun 2006
Volume 30, Issue 5 - May 2006
Volume 30, Issue 4 - Apr 2006
Volume 30, Issue 3 - Feb 2006
Volume 30, Issue 2 - Feb 2006
Volume 30, Issue 1 - Jan 2006
Selecting the target year
Factors and Directions of the Change of the Apparel Retail Structure in Korea (Part I)
Ko, Sun-Young ; Rhee, Eun-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 30, issue 11, 2006, Pages 1495~1506
The purposes of this study are to investigate the formation and the change of apparel retail structure historically with the viewpoint that the retail structure is affected by the process of economic development. This study was done by literature research method and the result of this study is the following. The tailor and seamstress shops, the first clothing shops in Korea, were replaced by ready-made shops, because mass production system which had developed with the industrialization of Korea increased the advantage of economy of scale compared to handicrafts individual one. After that, the production system of apparel industry had been efficient continuously, while retail system had not. The retailing of famous brand apparel conducted by exclusive franchise store caused supplier oriented markets where the opinion and the desire of consumers were not reflected. While the retailing of the unknown brand apparel handled by small retail stores were inefficient. As the apparel industry matured in 1990s, various types of new stores appeared such as specialty stores, discount stores, TV home shopping, internet shopping, outlet malls, and big fashion stores in Dongdeamoon. These new stores have features of seeking profits in mass merchandising. As these large retail stores grow, the apparel retail structure of Korea is changing from a fragmented market to a vertically integrated one. This change is shown by the decrease of stores per inhabitants. With the change of environment, the apparel retail system which has lagged behind comparatively is expected to develop into more efficient system based on the large capital investment which raise the advantage of economy of scale.
A Comparative Study of the Middle-Aged Women's Real Somatotype and Cognitive Somatotype
Shim, Jung-Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 30, issue 11, 2006, Pages 1507~1518
The middle-aged body differs from the youthful body and has its own body type due to the considerable difference in body structure by age. However, most ready-made clothes for middle-aged women are designed according to the youthful body types. They are looking for the better fitness of the ready-made clothes. Thus clothing fitness is strongly required for a middle-aged women. The purpose of this study is to analyze the basic characteristics of middle-aged women's body types and to compare the real somatotype and cognitive somatotype. The subjects are 238 middle-aged women between 35 and 49 years old living in Daegu. Data are collected through anthropometric measurement and questionnaire on somatotype from September to October 2004. The results are as follows: 1. Using factor analysis, cluster analysis is carried out and the subjects of this research are classified into 4 groups. 2. Middle-aged women usually are not satisfied with their body. Particularly, they show the lowest satisfaction measurement about their abdominal girth, weight, and overall body-shape in total 16 categories. 3. As a result of body cathexis for each part, women are usually not satisfied with their body parts for themselves, regardless of real somatotype. 4. As I divide middle-aged women's somatotype by Rohrer index into the groups of three body-types, then examine real somatotype and cognitive somatotype, I get the following result : The slimmer their bodies are, the more satisfied middle-aged women we. Besides, 40.3% of middle-aged women have an incorrect and distorted understanding of their somatotype. 5. As a result of this research for ideal state of body-size, the women shows their Ideal sizes as follow: 160.55cm for ideal height, 88.73cm for ideal bust girth, 71.14cm for ideal waist girth, 90.03cm for ideal hip girth, and 53kg for ideal weight.
A Study on Application of Web-based Fashion Information Analysis System for Domestic Men's Street Fashion, 2005 S/S
Park, Hye-Won ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 30, issue 11, 2006, Pages 1519~1530
This study has surveyed and analyzed in 2005 S/S domestic men's street fashion by using the Web-SFAS system that was developed and completed in the earlier research. Total of 270 men who were sensitive to fashion were surveyed around 5 nationwide cities and 9 commercial zones. The analysis results of the questionnaire and image survey in 2005 S/S for each commercial zone was shown as follows. 1. The most interest in producing fashionable shape when they go out was in the order of clothes>hair style>shoes and it was found that the proper reason for visiting the commercial zone was to meet with friends>watching movies>shopping etc. 2. T-shirts were most preferred as upper garments and as for bottoms, blue jeans were preferred. Black, gray, and white colors were most preferred and blue color was most preferred primarily due to the preference for blue jeans. The color image was proven mainly modem and light tone, comfortable and casual items were preferred. An active comfort casual image emphasized with activeness by coordinating comfortable T-shirts or shirts with blue jeans were most preferred in 9 areas. 3. A clear difference was confirmed in color by commercial area. Blackish color was most prevalent in Daehakro whereas simple color was mostly shown around Hongik University area. Bright and unique colors such as green and violate were dominant at Dae-Gu Dongseongro, and basic colors such as white and black were preferred in Masan Hapseong-dong and Changwon Sangnam-dong. Through the results of nationwide street fashion survey, the each commercial zone has unique characteristics in fashion trend even in the same city, rather than the regional difference in Seoul and local city.
Comparative Evaluation of Clothing Pressure and Subjective Sensation Exerted by Foundation
Jeong, Jeong-Rim ; Kim, Hee-Eun ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 30, issue 11, 2006, Pages 1531~1537
This study was conducted to investigate the relation between clothing pressure and subjective sensation exerted by foundation. Nineteen females volunteered as subjects. Experimental foundations were brassiere with 70B, 70C, 75B and 75C size which were widely distributed in pilot test and two types of girdle of which size were 64, 70 and 76. Clothing pressure with an air pack system and subjective sensation were measured at 5 points in brassiere and 7 points in the girdle. As the result of this study, brassiere's band and girdle's waist line, of which clothing pressure are high, is needed to improve. Generally the more pressure makes the more tightness, however, in some regions more or less pressure can give comfort. The tightness rating may not only related to clothing pressure, but also related to factors such as body size, body fat, resilience of muscle and bone structure. Other subjective sensation such as tactile feeling, hot/wet feeling, etc. in addition to the study with consideration of these factors could be used in future research to evaluate the effectiveness of foundation.
Effects of Media Involvement, Body Satisfaction and Self-Esteem on the Appearance Management Behavior of Preteen Boys and Girls
Kim, Analia ; Lee, Soo-Gyoung ; Koh, Ae-Ran ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 30, issue 11, 2006, Pages 1538~1549
The purpose of this study was 1) to identify gender differences in appearance management behavior and influencing variables(media involvement, body satisfaction and self-esteem), 2) the effects of influencing variables on appearance management behavior, and 3) to analyze the relationships among influencing variables. The data were collected ken 458 fifth and sixth grade girls and boys of five elementary schools ill Seoul, Korea via self-administered questionnaires, and were analyzed by factor analysis, t-test, and multiple regression analysis. The results of this study were as follows: Regarding the gender differences in research variables, preteen girls showed more interest in clothing/hair style management, weight management, TV involvement and celebrity imitation than preteen boys. Girls showed lower level of satisfaction than boys. Multiple regression analyses were conducted to identify the effects of media involvement, body satisfaction and self-esteem on appearance management behavior. For boy group, clothing/hair style interest was influenced by celebrity imitation, and weight management by TV involvement, body satisfaction and school self-esteem, and height management by celebrity management and school self-esteem. For girl group, clothing/hair style management was influenced by celebrity imitation and general self-esteem, and weight management by body satisfaction, general self-esteem, celebrity imitation and TV involvement, and height management by school self-esteem, TV involvement, time spent watching TV and general self-esteem. From the results of analyzing relationships among influencing variables, it was found that media involvement influenced self-esteem; TV involvement and celebrity imitation influenced school self-esteem; body satisfaction had the effect on all three sub dimensions of self-esteem in boy group. For female group, TV involvement had the effect on body satisfaction, and celebrity imitation on general self-esteem, the family self-esteem and school self-esteem, and body satisfaction on all three sub dimensions of self-esteem.
A Study on the Development of Shirts Pattern for Middle Aged Men's Body Shapes
Sung, Ok-Jin ; Yang, Chung-Eun ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 30, issue 11, 2006, Pages 1550~1559
The purpose of this study is to measure middle aged men's bodies around the ages of thirty-five through filly-five, whose age-group undergoes drastic changes on their body shapes. Further, body shapes are grouped based on the measurements, and pattern making methods are presented in order to effectively make up for the undesirable body features of middle-aged men. In order to develop patterns fit for middle aged men's body shapes, the regression which reflects physical characteristics was applied for the experimental shirts pattern, instead of comparative patterns which applies the same equation. For the two body types classified above(Bend-forward Type and Lean-back Type), correlation among the factors necessary for pattern design was considered and the regression was formularized accordingly. To validate the regression, the same amount of ease as in the comparative patterns was applied to the chest girth, and reasonable ease to the armhole depth and neck girth. In this way, experimental shirts patterns fit for the body types were developed. After the modification through the wearing test, the experimental shirts pattern was completed as herein.
A Study on Formative Features of Fashion Design in Digital Era
Chun, Jae-Hoon ; Har, Ji-Soo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 30, issue 11, 2006, Pages 1560~1571
The purpose of this study is to analyze relations between digital characteristics and formative features of fashion design in digital era, to find out the best way to make desirable clothes in the future affected by digital characteristics. The methods of this study are documentary research of previous studies and case study. For the study of formative features of fashion design, 100 kinds of pictures have been selected from photographs in fashion magazines, professional books and internet sites. In the theoretical study, digital characteristics are limitless repetition, compressibility, interactivity, ease of deformation and mobility. And formative features of digital design are plasticity & geometry, assemblage, joints & connections, transparency and deformation. The results of analysis are as follow. Formative features of fashion design in digital era are classified nonlinearity, variability and hybrid. There are organic relations between digital characteristics and formative features of fashion design as well as between digital characteristics and formative features of digital design. Also, there is significant similarity between formative features of digital design and formative features of fashion design in digital era.
Development of Susceptible Functional Fiber through Chitosan Finishing Treatment of Tencel Blended Fabrics (Part II) -The Change of Physical Properties-
Park, Youn-Hee ; Bae, Hyun-Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 30, issue 11, 2006, Pages 1572~1582
In this study, in order to compare a Tencel/cotton and a Tencel/Cotton/PET as Tencel blended fabrics with a Tencel fabric, the fabric samples were treated with chitosan after NaOH pretreatment and enzyme treatment thereof, And then its adherent efficiency was enhanced by using a crosslinking agent. After that, it was treated with a softener. In chitosan treatment, the functions of moisture regain, tensile strength, air permeability and crease resistance were more improved in the Tencel blended fabrics than in the Tencel fabric. Thus, it may be thought that the physical properties of the Tencel blended fabrics were more effectively modified than those of the Tencel fabric. And the friction charged voltage was very much reduced in all samples, so that chitosan treatment was effective for prevention of electrostatic charge. Further, chitosan finishing treatment improved remarkably the antibacterial activity in all samples regardless of the type of strains.
The Change of Kenaf Fiber Characteristics by the Contents of Noncellulosic Material
Lee, Hye-Ja ; Han, Young-Sook ; Yoo, Hye-Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 30, issue 11, 2006, Pages 1581~1588
The effects of removal of lignin or hemicellulose on the cottonizing and pulping characteristics of kenaf fiber were studied by comparing the conditions of non-cellulosic material contents, fiber lengths and dyeability. And the effects of lignin or hemicellulose on dyeability of the kenaf fiber using CI Direct Green 26 and CI Direct Red 81 were investigated. The results were as follows. The lignin contents decreased and the kenaf fiber became shorter and finer as the reaction time with sodium chlorite increased. The hemicellulose could be removed by treating sodium hydroxide solution to the fiber from which the lignin partly removed. The 80% of hemicellulose could be removed by 5% of sodium hydroxide solution in 5 minutes. But if lignin were not removed at all, hemicellulose could not be removed. The fiber lengths proper for apparel were obtained after treating sodium chlorite for 10-20 minutes and those for pulping were obtained after treating sodium chlorite for 40 minutes. The kenaf fibers from which lignin and hemicellulose partly removed were dyed with CI Direct Green 26 and CI Direct Red 81. Their dyeability increased as the removal rates of lignin increased. The
values of kenaf fiber dyed with CI Direct Green 26 were lower than CI Direct Red 81.
Optimum Washing Conditions of Artificially Soiled Cloths in a Drum-Type Washing Machine
Chung, Hae-Won ; Kim, Mi-Kyung ; Kim, Hyun-Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 30, issue 11, 2006, Pages 1589~1597
Nowadays, Korean consumers prefer drum-type washing machines to pulsator-type washers. Washing is a complex process involving the interaction of numerous physical and chemical influences. The main factors in the washing operations are the washing chemistry of the detergent along with the mechanical input, the wash temperature, and the time provided by the washing machine. Heavy-duty detergents that are used in drum-type washing machines contain different components from those used in vertical-axis washing machines. The bath ratio and the mechanical actions to which laundry is subjected are different between the drum-type and the vertical-axis washing machines. In this study we examined the effects of wash temperature, wash time, detergent concentration, and revolution speed on the removal of soils from artificially soiled cloths in a drum-type washing machine with heavy-duty commercial detergent. We used multiple regression analyses to find the relative importance of the factors and the optimum washing conditions. The results of these experiments showed that the washing temperature was the most important factor in the effective removal of most soils. This was followed by the washing time, the detergent concentration, and finally the revolution speed. In this study it was found that superfluous amounts of detergent did not sufficiently increase the soil removal rate. Koreans who are used to washing with cold water should increase the wash time to launder more efficiently.
Three-Dimensional Analysis of the Shapes of Gathered Skirts
Lee, Myung-Hee ; Jung, Hee-Kyeong ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 30, issue 11, 2006, Pages 1598~1607
The purpose of this study was to analyze the proportion of gathered skirts using a three-dimensional measurement system. And in this experiment, we have attempted to accumulate three-dimensional data of wearing model and find out adequate methods for analyzing shape of clothes. The experimental design consists of two factorial designs. We established three different kinds of fabrics, ratio of gathers. The measurement tool for three-dimensional model was whole body 3D scanner(Exima-WBS2H). Analysis program used in experiment is RapidForm 2004 PP1 and Pattern Design 2000. Data analysis utilizes SPSS WIN 10.0 Package. As the results show, there were different effect of gather and proportion of shapes among the measurements of width, thickness and areas made by different lines of vision in cross-sectional silhouette. And there were difference shapes of section area at each part of gathered skirts between vertical-outline silhouette and vortical-plane silhouette made by gathering conditions. And also the cross-sectional silhouettes and vertical silhouettes were related to shape of clothes.
A Study on Clothing Image Evaluation and Preference According to Self-Image Classification of the Middle-Aged Women
Shim, Jung-Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 30, issue 11, 2006, Pages 1608~1617
Due to the popularization of fashion, it is important for consumers to find out under what kinds of reasons consumers choose and prefer the clothing products as consumers are interested in clothing and have variety of their styles to choose This study is to classify the self-image of the middle-aged women and examine the characteristics of each group and also to inquire into the evaluation of clothing by each group. Data are collected through a self-administered questionnaire survey from 4 to October 31, 2005 from 350 middle-aged women in Daegu; 275 are used for the data analysis. Data analysis is performed using SPSS Package, which included cluster analysis, factor analysis, ANOVA, Duncan's multiple range test, and chi-square test. The results are as follows: 1. As a result of factor analysis of self-image, the five factors which are intelligent image, social image, fashionable image, female image, bold image are extracted. Besides, as a result of cluster analysis, the three types which are female-type, neuter-type, male-type are classified. 2. The middle-aged women regard the classic style as their best style for outgoing and then they like the casual style, elegant style, dramatic style in order. 3. As a result of factor analysis for clothing image, the four factors which are dignity, attraction, simplicity activity are extracted. 4. According to self-image types, there are differences for clothing image and preferring clothing styles. While female-type groups choose the elegant style, neuter-type groups regard the classic style as their best style and male-type groups regard the casual style as their best style. In case of daring style, the preference shows the lowest among all the types unrelated to self-image types.
Intention to Return to Online Shopping Malls by Men of Digital Generation
Sung, Hee-Won ; Jeon, Yang-Jin ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 30, issue 11, 2006, Pages 1618~1625
The purposes of this study were 1) to identify dimensions of fashion lifestyles of men of digital generation and online shopping mall service attributes, and 2) to find factors affecting general satisfaction and intention to purchase at online shopping malls. Data were obtained from 632 men aged between 15 and 39 who were using the internet. Fashion lifestyles produced five factors, fashion leadership, shopping enjoyment, brand pursuit, personality pursuit, and practicality pursuit. Internet service attributes included three factors, check-out service, after delivery service, and product presentation service. Significant determinants of general satisfaction were after delivery service, check-out service, product presentation service, and purchase experience in order. For intention to buy, after delivery service, check-out service, product presentation service, purchase experience, practicality, and household income level in order were significant. Finally, general satisfaction of purchase was a useful determinant of intention to buy. Implications were given for improving internet shopping mall services from the perspective of online fashion mall marketers.
A Study on Wearing Test of Protective Clothing against a Toxic Substance
Chung, Myung-Hee ; Park, Soon-Ja ; Shin, Jung-Sook ; Koshiba, Tomoko ; Tamura, Teruko ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 30, issue 11, 2006, Pages 1626~1635
The purpose of this study was to search for comfortable protective clothing for waste incinerator workers. The experimental protective clothing came in two types: one whose outer side made use of polypropylene film, and the inner side, a non-woven rayon fabric processed with charcoal with a 10% density (CF): and one whose outer side made use of polyolefine and polyamide films, and the inner side, a non-woven polypropylene fabric (NNCF). Experiments were conducted on five healthy adult women whose average age was 21. These experiments were conducted at a climate chamber, in which the temperature and relative humidity were set below
, respectively. Measured were the rectal temperature, the skin temperature, the sweating rate, the weight loss, the heart rate, the blood pressure, the temperature, and the relative humidity of a microclimate and subjective sensation. These were measured within a period of 60 min, consisting of a 20-min stable period, a 20-min exercise period (walking exercise for 2 miles/hr on a treadmill), and a 20-min recovery period. Through this experiment, the differences between the human body's physiological reactions to CF and NNCF clothing, and the human body's comfort levels when wearing these, were determined.
The Study on the TV Female Anchor's Image according to the Make Up and Hair Style
Oh, In-Young ; Kim, In-Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 30, issue 11, 2006, Pages 1636~1647
The purpose of this study was to provide data that can be used to suggest idealistic anchor's image to capture ratings for the news program and to suggest guide for casting and training anchors for the broadcasting stations by examining the idealistic looks and images of TV news anchors by asking the general viewers who watch TV, The research methods was questionnaire survey. The subjects were 839 male and female audiences in theire 20's and 40's who residing in Seoul and Gyeonggi area. The study results are as follows: 1) The factors that decide impression of a female anchor The factors that decide female anchor's impression were 'specialty factor, friendliness factor, elegance factor, dynamic factor, and attractiveness factor'. 2) The difference in formation of impression according to makeup and hair style of a female anchor In case of specialty and friendliness factors scored high when putting on natural makeup, dynamic factors scored high when putting on elegant makeup, and attractiveness factor when putting on natural and romantic makeup. All factor were high when a female anchor had short-cut style and straight hair 3) Formation of anchor's impression from makeup and hair style according to the perceiver's variables (gender and age) Male and female audiences both gave hish score for a female anchor's specialty such as 'confident and reliable' and friendliness such as 'warm and comfortable' when a female anchor puts on natural makeup. They gave high score for attractiveness factor such as' good impression and refined' when putting on romantic makeup and high score for dynamic factor such as 'positive and confident' when putting on elegant makeup. Both male and female audiences gave high score fur all except friendliness factor when a female anchor had short-cut style compared to bobbed hair and high score far specialty factor when a female anchor had straight hair. The audiences both in their 20's and 40's gave high score for specialty and friendliness when a female anchor put on natural makeup while the perceivers at their 20's gave high score for elegance and dynamic factor when a female anchor put on elegant makeup. The audiences both in their 20's and 40's gave high score for all factors when female anchor had short-cut hair.